New obsession...looking for input

Well, you already have the logic figured out. Improving your abilities comes from training and racing. The first thing we learn in cycling is that the motor is more important than the chassis.

Now that that [censored] is out of the way...go buy the best damned bike you can afford or one that you just plain desire. A good bike will inspire you and get the best out of your efforts.

Make certain that what you buy FITS. A poorly fitted top quality machine is worse than a well fitted mid-line bike every time. And although you may think there may not be more costs involved in acquiring another bike, there usually is. From small items such as replacing worn cables and brake pads to more significant items like a saddle, pedals, bars or stem (applicable to brand new bikes, used bikes or even that 'free' racer your uncle got tired of and gave you) are often replaced for fit or preference.

If you are beginning racing, either Madone is a good start and the 5.1 would be my choice if both were in equal, near mint, condition. The extra set of race wheels option will be something you are going to eventually need in any case, so start saving for a pair of fast wheels for race days.

You could certainly race your 1.5 with a killer pair of wheels and if it gets trashed while you learn, so be it. No great loss. Still, for the constant wear and tear and speed requirements of even low level USCF / USAC Cat. racing the better the bike and wheels, the more competitive you are likely to be. Equipment is no guarantee of success, but it is certainly a leading indicator of where you are headed and it will take you to the limits of your training.

Keep that 1.5 handy. For racing and training having two or three bikes is almost mandatory. One will be down for crash repairs, upgrades or just plain old maintenance...usually at the most inopportune time. The spare(s) will be necessary to stay on the road.

Good luck with your racing. Go fast and stay safe.

The disclaimers:

1. Speed costs. So...how fast do you want to go?
2. In before the tightasses.

CAMPYBOB said:

Well, you already have the logic figured out. Improving your...

...The disclaimers:

1. Speed costs. So...how fast do you want to go?
2. In before the tightasses.

Thanks for the response. Curious to your feelings on 4.5 w/ upgraded wheels vs. 5.1 in stock form? (Given the price difference I could pick up wheels for the 4.5 right away vs. only basic maintence for the 5.1)

Tyler Smith said:

Thanks for the response. Curious to your feelings on 4.5 w/ upgraded wheels vs. 5.1 in stock form? (Given the price difference I could pick up wheels for the 4.5 right away vs. only basic maintence for the 5.1)

UPDATE: if it makes any difference the cost of the 5.1 would actually be $900 after some discussion with the seller. Might be able to get the 4.5 down to $400 as well (typical Craigslist markup and negotiating I suppose). Not sure if this makes either more attractive or if either are really that good of a price.

I would buy the TREK with the lowest miles and the least use / abuse. 3 years less age / use? I would go with the 2011 model year if all things were equal (which they rarely are). Carbon frames and forks are items that must be cared for and inspected very, very closely for safety concerns.

Again, your budget does matter and you're about to experience why third world countries are big into soccer and not bicycle road racing. It's a fairly expensive sport even when on a restrained budget.

Well I pulled the trigger on the 4.5 tonight. Got it for $320. Bike is very clean, mostly original including bar tape (cannot be many miles on it). I just ordered new tape and tires. Hopefully I'll get a good ride in on it tomorrow, looking forward to many good years on it.

Thanks for the input campy. Now that I didn't spend a lot I can save for nicer parts when these wear out. I'd really like to keep my old bike for poor weather, we'll see what the better half thinks 🙂