Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Problems installing 105 crankset

Started by climbr3000 · · Last activity · 10 posts · 1,276 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
11 April 2014
Last activity
25 April 2014
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climbr3000
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  1. Morning all,

    I've recently purchased a new 105 bottom bracket and crankset. However I can't seem to get the crankset spindle (incorrect terminology?!) through the bottom bracket itself - it just seems to get stuck, despite a healthy application of grease.

    This is the first time I have attempted to install a crankset. Does it need to forceful encouragement with a rubber mallet, or is this not a good idea?

    Very grateful for any guidance!

    Many thanks

  2. Instead of using "forceful encouragement" (not recommended!!!)... TRY THIS ...

    [LIST] REMOVE the non-driveside cup (I am presuming an English threaded BB cup ... if it is a press-in BB cup then you can stop reading) ... INSERT the spindle through the driveside cup ... SLIDE the non-driveside cup onto the spindle ... THREAD (do not cross-thread!!!) the non-driveside cup into the frame ... Your wrench will provide the force ... FYI. Although I don't recommend it ... [INDENT]... the TYPE of BB wrench can dictate whether you install the non-driveside AFTER or BEFORE ... Which is to say that if you have an "open jaw" Hollowtech-II BB wrench then you can install the non-driveside cup, first, and then install the driveside. [/INDENT]


    ATTACH the non-driveside arm. DONE!?! BTW. If it is a press(ed)-in BB, then you probably need to check the installation of the cups to ensure that they are "square" to one another.

  3. Thanks for your advice Alfeng, but the spindle does not even get more than a couple of inches through the driveside cup - it just seems too tight!

    The middle of the spindle seems to have a very faint thread, but I'm not sure whether this is in fact a thread or not..

  4. Well, the "plastic sleeve" is snug ...

    The "plastic grommets" (which also acts as part of the weather seal) which reduces the Inner Diameter to 24mm are the same size for both cups ...

    The only difference (besides the threads on the cups, of course) is the meager amount of stenciled information on the outside of the cups ...

    But, the plastic grommet is not so snug that you shouldn't be able to tap the spindle into the cup(s) with the heel of your palm or side of your hand ...

    [CENTER]------[/CENTER]

    HMmmm ...

    If you can post a picture of your crank's spindle, that might help clarify what you are looking at ...

    Generally (that is, in the past), the spindle on Shimano Hollowtech II & FSA MegaExo cranks are bare "silver" where it contacts the plastic sleeve AND a dull, flat finish in the middle of the spindle (presumably,, a rust inhibiting coating ... it is NOT threaded) ... and, the end is splined to mate with the non-driveside arm.

  5. Is the gear cable guide screw getting in the way?
    Maybe the screw is not intrusive enough to stop the sleeve getting through, but enough to squeeze the sleeve, therefore preventing the spindle getting through.

  6. Thanks everyone, sorted it - just very snug! 🙂

  7. Quoted post said:

    Originally Posted by climbr3000
    Thanks everyone, sorted it - just very snug! 🙂


    Cool, did you take a hammer to it? I resort to a hammer far to often, i've stopped working on my bike!!

  8. BFH and a block of soft wood fixed many a "snug" problem.

  9. Quoted post said:

    Originally Posted by swampy1970
    BFH and a block of soft wood fixed many a "snug" problem.

    so i'm not the only one [IMG]files.cyclingforums.comshocked.png[/IMG] I try to remember to grease threads these days. Anything major or hard, I just take it to the LBS cause i have the CBF's for working on my bike.

  10. Some threads need greasing, some need to be left dry and some have thread locker. I just spend a couple of sections to look at the techdoc first. If I've overhauled something before then I'll just replace what's on there - but removing old Loctite blue sucks at times...

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