Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

7900 shifter does not fully unwind. Fixable?

Started by jojoma · · Last activity · 12 posts · 1,349 views

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01 / Original post7900 shifter does not fully unwind. Fixable?jojoma · 16 Oct 2013 02 / This pagePosts 1–12Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #12oldbobcat · 19 Oct 2013

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Original section
Cycling Equipment
Published
16 October 2013
Last activity
19 October 2013
Original author
jojoma
Posts
12
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
1,349
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0
Topics
Rear derailleursChain lube and cleaning

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  1. Original post
    jojoma
    Archived post
    #1

    Hi,

    I ride 10 speed DA 7900. I finally found out why I could only downshift 8 clicks, instead of the full 9. The reason was that I was starting from the second slot. The shifter won't get into the first slot. See the pic below. I can force it in there with my fingers so that I can reset the derailleur cable, but that is all. Any suggestions? Is this a quick fix for someone at the bike shop? Thanks a lot.

    [IMG]cyclingforums.com700[/IMG]

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  2. Volnix
    Archived post
    #2

    I have no idea but...

    If this is a gear it might have "jumped" over one tooth of the gear that is turning it. Or maybe the teeth are worn out. Since its from the Dura Ace line you have good chances of finding replacement parts.

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  3. dhk2
    Archived post
    #3

    Recommend you don't force or disassemble the shifter. Take it to a good mechanic instead.....might be able to save the day for you.

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  4. Volnix
    Archived post
    #4

    Quote: Originally Posted by dhk2 [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
    Recommend you don't force or disassemble the shifter. Take it to a good mechanic instead.....might be able to save the day for you.

    +1...

    If you dont fiddle with it too much you might even claim a warranty repair... Good luck with that though... [IMG]files.cyclingforums.combig smile.png[/IMG]

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  5. ambal
    Archived post
    #5

    Upgrade it to campag veloce athena or something similar.

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  6. alfeng
    Archived post
    #6

    Quote:Originally Posted by jojoma [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG] I ride 10 speed DA 7900. I finally found out why I could only downshift 8 clicks, instead of the full 9. The reason was that I was starting from the second slot. The shifter won't get into the first slot. See the pic below. I can force it in there with my fingers so that I can reset the derailleur cable, but that is all. Any suggestions? Is this a quick fix for someone at the bike shop? Thanks a lot.

    [IMG]cyclingforums.com700[/IMG]

    FWIW. While you would probably find Campagnolo shifters to be a real pleasure to use, I suspect that whoever set up your bike simply did NOT adjust the rear derailleur's stops properly ...

    [LIST]IMO, the quickest way (for me) to check the stops is always without a chain OR derailleur cable attached to the rear derailleur ... YOU can check your rear derailleur stops by removing the chain AND detaching the rear derailleur cable AND THEN manually swinging the rear derailleur through its high-low range. Adjust stops, accordingly. Attach cable & adjust indexing.


    BTW. While the cable is detached from the rear derailleur you should ensure that it isn't binding anywhere between the shifter & the rear derailleur ... if it is binding, then replace it ... AND, ensure that you can feel-or-hear 9-clicks as you work through the progression of both levers on the right shifter.

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  7. Eichers
    Archived post
    #7

    Quote: Originally Posted by jojoma [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
    I ride 10 speed DA 7900. I finally found out why I could only downshift 8 clicks, instead of the full 9. The reason was that I was starting from the second slot. The shifter won't get into the first slot. See the pic below. I can force it in there with my fingers so that I can reset the derailleur cable, but that is all. Any suggestions? Is this a quick fix for someone at the bike shop? Thanks a lot.
    Hi jojoma, It could be that the cable sheathing (inside/inner) and cable need lubricating with something like R&R Cable Magic ... could be as simple as that [IMG]files.cyclingforums.comsmile.png[/IMG]

    thanks KL [IMG]files.cyclingforums.comsmile.png[/IMG]

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  8. Eichers
    Archived post
    #8

    Hi jojoma, lubrication of the wire where it travels through the Bottom Bracket (BB) guide is also important ... thanks KL [IMG]files.cyclingforums.comsmile.png[/IMG]

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  9. oldbobcat
    Archived post
    #9

    Quote: Originally Posted by KLabs [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
    Hi jojoma, lubrication of the wire where it travels through the Bottom Bracket (BB) guide is also important ... thanks KL [IMG]files.cyclingforums.comsmile.png[/IMG]

    Does it present the same problem without a cable attached?

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  10. Eichers
    Archived post
    #10

    Quote: Originally Posted by oldbobcat [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
    Does it present the same problem without a cable attached?
    Hi oldbobcat, ? ? ?. Could you please explain to the OP what you mean ...

    Hi jojoma, you could also spray some WD40 (or equivalent) into the STI lever mechanism to lubricate the mechanism ...

    thanks KL [IMG]files.cyclingforums.comsmile.png[/IMG]

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  11. Volnix
    Archived post
    #11

    Quote: Originally Posted by KLabs [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

    Hi jojoma, you could also spray some WD40 (or equivalent) into the STI lever mechanism to lubricate the mechanism ...

    thanks KL [IMG]files.cyclingforums.comsmile.png[/IMG]

    I dont think that WD40 lubricates, I think it actually de-lubricates, as in degreasing, before you apply a new lubricant.

    BTW I found that clothes hand washing powder does an awesome job at cleaning chains and gears. Maybe it has some de greasing stuff inside too...

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  12. oldbobcat
    Archived post
    #12

    Quote: Originally Posted by KLabs [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
    Hi oldbobcat, ? ? ?. Could you please explain to the OP what you mean ...

    Hi jojoma, you could also spray some WD40 (or equivalent) into the STI lever mechanism to lubricate the mechanism ...

    thanks KL [IMG]files.cyclingforums.comsmile.png[/IMG]

    When I have an STI lever with a mysterious problem, I always remove the entire cable to see if that changes anything. Sometimes the cable is the cause of the problem, sometimes it isn't, but isolating the lever from the cable helps. It's also an opportunity to examine the cable and housing for damage.

    As for thin lubricants that can break up dirty or clumped grease, I favor Tri-flow or Boeshield T-9 from an aerosol can.

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