Road Cycling · Public discussion

New frame time

Started by Dave Pace · · Last activity · 14 posts · 617 views

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Road Cycling
Published
22 August 2012
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23 August 2012
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Dave Pace
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14
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  1. Hey all. So I am going to start to build my own road bike, this way I know what to look for if something goes wrong other then a flat. That and I need something lighter then my current 35lb bike. But I need to know a few things from more experienced people.

    I am looking at getting the nashbar Double-butted Aluminum Road Frame to start, but I am sure that you all on here have built your own bike and may be able to give some advice to me before I even start on this project. So I am looking forward to hearing from you on this.

    I will have more questions later on as I feel some will be answered throughout without me having to ask.

  2. Have fun.

  3. Consider sizing on all components ,of course , double or triple crank and gear ratio on your cassette. Those are top decisions that immediately come to mind and of course have a good set of tools.

  4. Quoted post said:

    Originally Posted by jhuskey [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

    Consider sizing on all components ,of course , double or triple crank and gear ratio on your cassette. Those are top decisions that immediately come to mind and of course have a good set of tools.

    Well I am going to go with the Triple crank for right now. Since I have a harder time on the hills I would like the extra low gear to help out. I am thinking of going with the 172.5 length on the FSA Gossamer Mega Expo Trip crank set, with the Vuelta Corsa Pro Road bike Wheel set, with a Shimano 105 CS-5700 Cassette. As far as Derailleurs and shifters and the Breaks I really dont know that much about them. What am I looking for in all of them?

  5. Dave Pace said:

    Well I am going to go with the Triple crank for right now. Since I have a harder time on the hills I would like the extra low gear to help out. I am thinking of going with the 172.5 length on the FSA Gossamer Mega Expo Trip crank set, with the Vuelta Corsa Pro Road bike Wheel set, with a Shimano 105 CS-5700 Cassette. As far as Derailleurs and shifters and the Breaks I really dont know that much about them. What am I looking for in all of them?

    How big are you? The Vuelta Corsa Pro's aren't the best choice if you're large-ish human being. How much are you planning on spending on components?

  6. Building a bike is fun, develops mechanical skills and helps to build affection for your machine, but unless you have real specific requirements and/or can source the components at considerable discount, your build will cost considerably more than an equivalent complete bike.

    Frame wise you may want to consider an integrated headset, they require no special tools to install. The crown race can be installed on the fork using a length of PVC pipe and a mallet.

    There are some good deals on frame, fork and headset combos to be found online. I am currently considering doing a build again this winter and am looking at Performancebike, bikeisland and ebay for parts. Bikeisland, in particular, has a frame, headset and carbon fork with free delivery that is far less than what you could source from nashbar.

    Basic brakes and derailleur equipment work fine, but tend to be a bit heavier than their high buck bretheren if that is important to you. You may want to consider a medium to long cage rear derailleur to handle larger cassettes if you need them. I put nashbar (microshift) derailleurs on my TT build and I am satisfied with the performance.

    I assume you want integrate brakes and shifters? I have had good experience with the range from Sora, Tiagra and 105 shimano gear. The newer, less expensive grades below Sora appear too cheap even for my tastes. The (nashbar) microshift brifters are intriguing for a budget build. My TT uses Dura Ace barends which work great as well, I am considering building a Cross'ish bike on the cheap using barends.

  7. ...and of course have a good set of tools.

    This.

    Buy tools. Lots of tools!

    Between the Park Tool website videos / written advice and YouTube there's enough info to assemble a nuclear warhead. Oh wait...that's on Jihad-r-Us.org.

  8. I know that 105 is much better than is use to be so 105 components all around would be a good choice for shifters etc.

    Bob, you know what the difference between building an atomic weapon and a Colnago C59 is? The bomb is a lot cheaper.

  9. Quoted post said:

    Originally Posted by alienator [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

    How big are you? The Vuelta Corsa Pro's aren't the best choice if you're large-ish human being. How much are you planning on spending on components?

    280 right now. I know that I don't want to pay over 300. per comp. Yes i know I can get a very good bike at that price, but I would rather piece it together. Tools are never the issue. What would be a better rim for me?

  10. Dave Pace said:

    280 right now. I know that I don't want to pay over 300. per comp. Yes i know I can get a very good bike at that price, but I would rather piece it together. Tools are never the issue. What would be a better rim for me?

    A better rim for you would be Mavic, Velocity, or some other 32 spoke rims laced to Shimano (105 or Ultegra) hubs. A wheel builder could do it as could most bike shops. Such a wheel could be built for $300 given or take some dollars. At your size, you don't want low spoke count wheels because you don't want to spoil your rides with broken spokes.

  11. Alienator,

    I assume that you could get a full wheelset for around $300 from a builder correct? Last time I priced it out, a decent handbuilt rear was under $200.

    Dave,

    You can also consider different spoke counts front and rear - front wheels rarely have trouble and can get by with less spokes. If you are going the nashbar / Corsa route, you could consider the HDs. They have 36 traditional spokes front and rear and can be had for under 2 bills. I recently acquired a set and they have stayed very true after about 500 miles of riding. My last 36 spoke rear wheel started breaking spokes around 2K miles - we will see how these compare.

    The wheels are flashy for a touring set. I have received complements on the wheels from my non biker friends and strangers; those in the know snicker a bit at the number of spokes. "Man, I can feel the wind off those spokes," they say. Its hard to say if they impact my performance, they are heavier wheels that I put on my heavier bike - it never felt very snappy.

  12. Maydog Those really do look nice the (Vuelta Corsa HD Road Wheelset) As far as what the people say. U know its all good till this fat guy rolls over your toes. JK. So from what I can gather the following would work good.

    nashbar Double-butted Aluminum Road Frame
    Vuelta Corsa HD Road Wheelset
    Shimano 105 CS-5700 Cassette
    Shimano 105 FC-5700 Crankset 172.5mm (Do I need to get a bracket with this or should it come with it?)
    Shimano 105 5700 SS Rear Derailleur
    Shimano 105 Front Derailleur
    Shimano 105 Brakes (might as well as stay with the 105 right?)
    I was thinking about getting the Nashbar Carbon Road Bike Fork
    I do not know what kind of Headset to go after. Any Ideas?
    Handel bars and also stems Ill worry about later. The seat I think ill steal from my current bike if I can.

  13. maydog said:

    Alienator, I assume that you could get a full wheelset for around $300 from a builder correct? Last time I priced it out, a decent handbuilt rear was under $200. Dave, You can also consider different spoke counts front and rear - front wheels rarely have trouble and can get by with less spokes. If you are going the nashbar / Corsa route, you could consider the HDs. They have 36 traditional spokes front and rear and can be had for under 2 bills. I recently acquired a set and they have stayed very true after about 500 miles of riding. My last 36 spoke rear wheel started breaking spokes around 2K miles - we will see how these compare. The wheels are flashy for a touring set. I have received complements on the wheels from my non biker friends and strangers; those in the know snicker a bit at the number of spokes. "Man, I can feel the wind off those spokes," they say. Its hard to say if they impact my performance, they are heavier wheels that I put on my heavier bike - it never felt very snappy.

    The $300 was a conservative statement about the price to expect. It's likely you can get it cheaper, especially if you buy the hubs and/or rims new off of eBay or summat. If you're last 36 spoke wheels only made it 2000 miles, something was really off in the build. My guess would be that the tensions weren't even.

  14. I only have experience building with an integrated headset frame. Nashbar does have an integrated double butted aluminum frame. I believe that it is a Cane Creek IS standard. More traditional headsets require a bit more effort to install, you can have a shop do it, buy/borrow a headset press or use one of the DIY solutions found on the net.

    My wheelset issues are for another thread, suffice to say the tensions were even via the pluck test. I believe the issue was the spokes (sapim double butted should be good right) or that I could not get the NDS tensions high enough without screwing up the dish - the drive side tensions were already pretty high. The NDS spokes would break at the nipple at the first thread via cyclic fatigue. I never had much luck with traditionally spoked wheels - I could trash units with less spokes in about 500 miles - so it was an improvement.

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