SRAM Rival? Should I ugrade?

What will happen is this, a year from now you will want to upgrade again and then again.
So my advice is either save up a good chunk of money and get Sram Force or Red (I have red and love it). or just be content with what you have. Rival is a good set, don't get me wrong, and you will notice a huge difference in shifting and weight. But you can spend twice as much upgrading a "level" at a time....trust me on that one..

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by CyclinYooper [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

I hadn't road biked for years,so when I got back into it last year, I purchased an entry level bike (GT GTR Series 4, size M (54)). I have really had a lot of fun on this bike so far; however, one major shortfall I've discovered, is that I'd like more gear options.

Well, I just recently saw that the GT GTR Series 1 can be picked up for ~$1300 at Performance Bike:
performancebike.comProduct 10052 10551 1078829 1 1549000 20000 400306Open ↗

With their guarantee, I could essentially return my current bike, and pay the difference for the upgrade. This sounds good to me, as the frame is identical, so I don't think I'd have to be re-fitted too much. My current bike has Shimano Sora and FSA components (50/34 chainring, 8 speed cassette). This bike has SRAM rival components.The additional cost would be ~$600 ... is this worth it?

Thanks for the help/opinions! Scott

Are you upgrading only to get 2 more gears?
What exactly is the issue with your gear range?
I would consider changing the cassette to get a different range if that's the problem.
Keep in mind that SRAM shift differently than Shimano.
Anyway, there are probably more things to work through before pulling the trigger on an "upgrade"

It sounds like a pretty good deal to me. I don't really know why you need more gear options, but this will give you four, not two as was stated earlier. And yes, SRAM uses a double tap shift system while Shimano uses dual levers, but this is a minor difference and you would get used to it fairly quickly. SRAM Rival is akin to Shimano 105 so you would be stepping up in quality. SRAM Force is the equivalent of Shimano Ultegra and SRAM Red is on par with Shimano Dura Ace. If you are a recreational cyclist, you do not need Force or Red unless riding with higher priced components is important to you. Most riders cannot feel the very slight increase in shift accuracy that you get with Force and Red over Rival. Concerning weight, the higher weight of Rival is really trivial when you look at it as a percentage of the total weight of the bike, rider, and water bottles, etc. A new bike with SRAM Rival components for $600.00? Its a no brainer IMHO.

I had Sram Rival so I can say with certainty that it is a good component group. But Force and Red are not just for rec cyclist. That is like saying unless you are a pro car driver just get a kia because anything else is over kill. They shift better with less play. They are much lighter, and you will never have to upgrade again.

Quoted post said:

But Force and Red are not just for rec cyclist. That is like saying unless you are a pro car driver just get a kia because anything else is over kill.

I think the point is that for most recreational riders the additional accuracy is either a) so subliminal it is difficult for recreational riders to appreciate the difference, or, b) so marginal that it does not affect their riding experiences. Now on the other hand for a professional or amateur racer the difference probably is noticeable.

Hmmm, the other question I have with regard to Performance Bikes....

Quoted post said:

With their guarantee, I could essentially return my current bike, and pay the difference for the upgrade

I am in the same predicament having bought a Series 4 last year. Can I really just bring it back and they will upgrade me for the difference between what I paid and the current price?? That sounds like a real good deal. I paid $600 for my Series 4 so I could then upgrade for ~$700?? Is that really true??

As for differences you also get a carbon seat post and carbon rear stays, and a whell upgrade to Mavic Aksium, along with the SRAM Rival components.

Yeah, upon further reflection (including feedback from this post), I'm going to hold off and stick with what I have.

I appreciate the good feedback from everyone, for sure!

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by Bike4Him [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Are you upgrading only to get 2 more gears?
What exactly is the issue with your gear range?
I would consider changing the cassette to get a different range if that's the problem.
Keep in mind that SRAM shift differently than Shimano.
Anyway, there are probably more things to work through before pulling the trigger on an "upgrade"

1. Getting more gears was a factor I was considering; my buddy has a 10 speed cassette, and he always seems to maintain pretty consistent cadence.
2. The issue with my gear range has primarily been low grade hills: it seems like I need to use too high a gear and tough it out or (more typically) use a low gear and really spin. However, it's certainly not prevented me from going anywhere! In order to get the ratio that feels right on these hills, I'd have to really cross-chain (and I've tried to get in the habit of not doing that too much).
3. I'm really ignorant regarding cassette selection, etc. How can I tell what type of cassette I have? And how would I evaluate whether an improvement is available?

My goal for this year, being new to cycling (after many years off) is to train and complete two local century rides. I've ridden most of the legs of one of them, and my bike and I certainly can handle it just fine with the current setup. That's why after pondering a little more, I figured what's my issue?

However, if a cassette change could help me improve, that seems like a relatively simple fix, correct?

Thanks, Scott

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by wotnoshoeseh [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]
I am in the same predicament having bought a Series 4 last year. Can I really just bring it back and they will upgrade me for the difference between what I paid and the current price?? That sounds like a real good deal. I paid $600 for my Series 4 so I could then upgrade for ~$700?? Is that really true??
As for differences you also get a carbon seat post and carbon rear stays, and a whell upgrade to Mavic Aksium, along with the SRAM Rival components.

When I called Performance, they told me that the bike could still be returned per their guarantee, but that I might be charged for anything that needed to be replaced to make the bike ready for sale again. The guy specifically mentioned that tires typically need to be replaced (I've been riding for 4 months). The stock tires (Vittoria Zaffiro) are only $14 each I think ... so that's no biggy. I also, took a big chunk out of my seat (I fell over learning to use my cleats/pedals). I figured I'd be charged for that too ... I'm sure the seat is cheap, but I don't know how much. Anyway, it seemed reasonable; they'll take it back, but you'll pay for any use/abuse. I could have done it for <$100 out of pocket, I believe.

Scott

The SRAM Rival shifters are better than the Shimano Sora shifters ...

BUT, for $200-or-less (you can pay more, of course!), you could get a set of 10-speed Campagnolo shifters which will index with 8-and-9-speed Shimano drivetrains with minimal effort. You can probably sell your Sora shifters for $100 +/- ... and, offset the cost of whichever Campagnolo shifters you might buy.

• You do NOT want the "QS" Campagnolo shifters whose internal components are Xenon-based -- e.g., Centaur, Veloce, Mirage. The Record & Chorus shifters which are labeled "QS" are "okay"
  

I think that Campagnolo shifters are superior ... others may disagree.

BTW. Are you really lacking enough gear combinations OR are you just not finding them as quickly as you would like?

WHERE (on which roads) are you riding that you are think you want another intermediate cog-or-two?

What is the range of the cassette which your buddy is using & what chainring combination is he using?

What is your cassette's range?

• Maybe, you should simply consider installing an 11-32, 8-speed SRAM (!?!) cassette.
  

Are you certain that your inner chainring is a 34t?

ASK your riding buddy what combination he is using when you find yourself in combination which you are finding to be tedious to use ... then, at your leisure, calculate if there is a combination that you can use with your existing cassette & chainrings.

If your buddy is a stronger rider, then he will almost-always use a different chainwheel-cog combination than you will be using ...

• Remember, New Mexico is at a higher altitude than the UP ... potentially, much higher!
  

Quoted post said:

BTW. Are you really lacking enough gear combinations OR are you just not finding them as quickly as you would like?
WHERE (on which roads) are you riding that you are think you want another intermediate cog-or-two?

What is the range of the cassette which your buddy is using & what chainring combination is he using?

What is your cassette's range?

• Maybe, you should simply consider installing an 11-32, 8-speed SRAM (!?!) cassette.
  

Are you certain that your inner chainring is a 34t?

ASK your riding buddy what combination he is using when you find yourself in combination which you are finding to be tedious to use ... then, at your leisure, calculate if there is a combination that you can use with your existing cassette & chainrings.

If your buddy is a stronger rider, then he will almost-always use a different chainwheel-cog combination than you will be using ...

• Remember, New Mexico is at a higher altitude than the UP ... potentially, much higher!
  

Thanks for the feedback. This thread prompted me to look into this further, and I think I've learned quite a bit.

I have at 50/34 chainring, and an 8 speed 12/25 cassette (12,13,15,17,19,21,23,25)

I think one misconception I had that was that I should only be using the following combinations, to avoid cross-chaining: 50,12-17 and 34,19-25. I've since learned that it's OK with a compact crank to use all but the "last two." So, I can reasonably use 50,12-21 and 34,15-25. I think this solves much of my problem, as 50,19 was the intermediate gearing I liked for some of the low-grade hills I was hitting.

New Mexico is higher. Much higher! I grew up in the U.P., at essentially sea-level. Now, living in NM, I routinely ride at 5000-6000 ft. And, I want to start riding higher. I have found that I actually really love climbing hills, for the exercise. And, I've debated changing my cassette to a 13/26 ... as I almost never have the opportunity to use #12, but I certainly use all of my climbing gears.

Scott

Quoted post said:

I think one misconception I had that was that I should only be using the following combinations, to avoid cross-chaining: 50,12-17 and 34,19-25. I've since learned that it's OK with a compact crank to use all but the "last two." So, I can reasonably use 50,12-21 and 34,15-25. I think this solves much of my problem, as 50,19 was the intermediate gearing I liked for some of the low-grade hills I was hitting.

Cross-chaining is only on the extreme range...using the big ring and big cog or small ring and small cog.
You can use the 50 tooth ring with 12-23 cogs. You can use the 34 tooth ring with the 13-25.
This holds true for 53/39 cranksets as well.

I know at times I've cross chained and I'm not sure if with today's chains it's such a big deal.
Maybe someone else can clarify if cross-chaining is still bad.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by CyclinYooper [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

New Mexico is higher. Much higher! I grew up in the U.P., at essentially sea-level. Now, living in NM, I routinely ride at 5000-6000 ft. And, I want to start riding higher. I have found that I actually really love climbing hills, for the exercise. And, I've debated changing my cassette to a 13/26 ... as I almost never have the opportunity to use #12, but I certainly use all of my climbing gears.

I reckon that 5000-6000 ft. probably puts you in the Albuquerque area ... while you may not need the 12t cog when you are riding "in town" (Albuquerque, or elsewhere), you will probably find it to be useful once you are riding in the East Mountains, so don't change cassettes until after you have taken a few rides at those higher altitudes ... your 12-25 cassette may be just right for you and not require changing.

BTW. To state the obvious, the air definitely gets thinner as you go higher than 6000 feet ... so, a cassette with a 28t (or, even a 30t) as its largest cog might be better because sometimes you just need to have a bailout gear.

Quoted post said:

Originally Posted by Bike4Him [IMG]/img/forum/go_quote.gif[/IMG]

Quote:
I think one misconception I had that was that I should only be using the following combinations, to avoid cross-chaining: 50,12-17 and 34,19-25. I've since learned that it's OK with a compact crank to use all but the "last two." So, I can reasonably use 50,12-21 and 34,15-25. I think this solves much of my problem, as 50,19 was the intermediate gearing I liked for some of the low-grade hills I was hitting.

Cross-chaining is only on the extreme range...using the big ring and big cog or small ring and small cog.
You can use the 50 tooth ring with 12-23 cogs. You can use the 34 tooth ring with the 13-25.
This holds true for 53/39 cranksets as well.

I know at times I've cross chained and I'm not sure if with today's chains it's such a big deal.
Maybe someone else can clarify if cross-chaining is still bad.

Cross Chaining is not a super big deal. It tends to wear the chain a little more quickly and can cause major problems if the chain is not long enough to accomodate the big front-big back gear selection without damaging the rear derailluer. You will probably get some chain rub in the FD cage if you are running a 9 or 10 speed bike. This might also happen on an 8 speed but I never tried it. Normally cross chaining is not an issue because the gear ratios are usually fairly closely duplicated using gears that do not require cross chaining.