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Crank / Bottom Bracket question

Started by avidprime · · Last activity · 7 posts · 1,058 views

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01 / Original postCrank / Bottom Bracket questionavidprime · 26 May 2010 02 / This pagePosts 1–7Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #7alfeng · 27 May 2010

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Cycling Equipment
Published
26 May 2010
Last activity
27 May 2010
Original author
avidprime
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7
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Public discussion
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1,058
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Bottom brackets

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  1. Original post
    avidprime
    Archived post
    #1

    HI All, I am a cycling noob. Been on a 2009 Trek 2.3 for just a year now and was considering some upgrades to the bike. I was throwing around the idea of upgrading the crankset to Ultegra but had a few questions concerning this...

    I only have 1700 miles on the bike. If I were to pull the crank, should I be swapping out the bottom bracket too? What would you say is the average life span of a bottom bracket?

    When it comes to buying a new bottom bracket... How does one choose which one to get? For example I see online an Ultegra FC6601/6604 Bottom Bracket for $33. Is that decent deal? How do I know if that would work on my bike? The one I see online is 70mm.

    Thanks in advance for any help/advice guys
    Chris

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  2. vspa
    Archived post
    #2

    if your bike is a Trek, then it has a British (BSC) 68mm thread
    ( italian 70mm thread is used on .. italian frames )

    bottom brackets are going recently through constant changes, so if you buy a recent Shimano Ultegra Crank you will need their "new" BB also.

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  3. tafi
    Archived post
    #3

    It depends on what you want to achieve with the "upgrade".

    Personally I wouldn't bother unless you want to change the type of crankset as well (eg: from or to a compact). There won't be any noticeable difference in merely changing from 105 to Ultegra.

    If you still want to do it, I would avoid chainging the BB if I didn't have to. It has probably not even worn in yet.
    I don't think the dimensions of BB have actually changed between 2009 to 2010, but it would pay to check first.

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  4. avidprime
    Archived post
    #4

    Hi Tafi, I forgot to mention that I was considering changing from a compact to a double. I had read that more teeth on the rings will allow me to get more speed on the flats. Is that true? I ride mostly in flat areas with minimal hills.

    Thanks for the advice on the bottom bracket as well. I will look into that.

    Chris

    tafi said:

    It depends on what you want to achieve with the "upgrade".

    Personally I wouldn't bother unless you want to change the type of crankset as well (eg: from or to a compact). There won't be any noticeable difference in merely changing from 105 to Ultegra.

    If you still want to do it, I would avoid chainging the BB if I didn't have to. It has probably not even worn in yet.
    I don't think the dimensions of BB have actually changed between 2009 to 2010, but it would pay to check first.

    Report
  5. vspa
    Archived post
    #5

    when someone refers to a compact crank it means less teeth but it is still a double, 2 chainrings.

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  6. avidprime
    Archived post
    #6

    HI Vspa, I didn't know that, thanks for the info.

    Chris

    vspa said:

    when someone refers to a compact crank it means less teeth but it is still a double, 2 chainrings.

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  7. alfeng
    Archived post
    #7
    avidprime said:

    Hi Tafi, I forgot to mention that I was considering changing from a compact to a double. I had read that more teeth on the rings will allow me to get more speed on the flats. Is that true? I ride mostly in flat areas with minimal hills.

    Simply adding 2-or-3 teeth with a larger chainring will probably have less impact than you are hoping for.

    You may be better off changing the smallest cog on your cassette to one with 11t ...

    EITHER cannibalize the 11t & 12t cog from a MTB cassette (e.g., an LX cassette) & restack your current cassette OR buy a new Road cassette.

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