Cycling Equipment · Public discussion

Cycling Road Shoes. What size?

Started by Sam123 · · Last activity · 19 posts · 5,450 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
3 October 2009
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16 October 2009
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Sam123
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19
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  1. Ok what size do i need for road shoes im size 10 or 11 and just wondering what size i need as they need to be a little bit bigger then my normal size.

    Im english so its size 10's 11's etc i think europe use like size 44 or something like that which i don't understand.

    I use the 2 bolts and the cleat.

    Will these shoes go with Shimano PD - M520 Pedals
    jrbicycles.comstorefron...%20%281%29.jpg
    Evans Cycles | Shimano R076 Road Shoes | Online Bike Shop

    Sorry about the double topic.

  2. I'm a 10½~11EE, and in a Sidi (Mega) I like a tight fit! - 43.5. 😉

  3. Sam, I think you should go try some on at your local bike shop to make sure you know what your size is.

    I wear a 9 1/2 in American sizing and my Shimano R107 road shoes are 43. The Shimano shoes fit me perfectly, so based on what Cipher said, I think you really need to try on a pair.

    Sounds like sizing can vary a lot based on what brand they are....

  4. My bike shop doesnt have road shoes or anything where i am in england/kent/thanet no one really road cycles thats why they dont get the shoes in.

  5. Sam123 said:

    My bike shop doesnt have road shoes or anything where i am in england/kent/thanet no one really road cycles thats why they dont get the shoes in.

    Well, that's a bummer.

    It does say in the description of the Shimano R076 that you can use 2 bolt SPD style cleats:

    Cleat Compatibility:SPD-SL style 3 bolt and SPD style 2-bolt
    As far as the correct shoe size goes, I would say that you probably would need at least a 44 Euro sized shoe.

    I'd make sure that you can return the shoes if they don't fit you exactly right.

    Good shoes will last many years and you need to get a good fit.

  6. I just orderd the size 45.

    Which is size 11 i looked at a chart.

    Some people say for road shoes its good to have some extra space for the peddaling?

    If thats true?

  7. Well, I don't know about buying them bigger for any reason, maybe someone else will have a comment.

    I bought mine in size 43 because 42's were a little tight and 44's seemed a little big.

    But, I was able to go to a bike shop near to me and try on Shimano shoes to see what the sizing was like.

    While they didn't have the exact model of shoe I wanted in my size, I was then able to order what I wanted on-line.

  8. Sam123 said:

    My bike shop doesnt have road shoes or anything where i am in england/kent/thanet no one really road cycles thats why they dont get the shoes in.

    I am not quite sure what is meant by "peddaling" here.

    I would expect my shoes to fit snuggly not tight yet have ample arch support. My size 10 1/2 - 11 feet are now wide enough to hit the. range.

    Chandler

  9. Sam123 said:

    I just orderd the size 45.

    Which is size 11 i looked at a chart.

    Some people say for road shoes its good to have some extra space for the peddaling?

    If thats true?

    No. They should fit like any shoe.

  10. I use to wear a 44 with the ever so slightest amount of movement by my feet while pedaling. The 44's that I as well as most people would perceive as 'snug' allowed the ever so slight amount of play. Greg LeMond (Close friend whom I frequently ride with) talked me in to a tighter shoe (43's) and while walking around in them was some what uncomfortable, riding with them is just fine. Greg also said Pro's will ride with an extremely tight fitting shoe. (Just my 2¢). 😉

  11. Ok got the shoes they were size 10.5 in english.

    My big toe hurts a little when riding but maybe i have thick socks on and but if not thick my feet get cold with the hole under the base of the shoe.

    What can i do, to prevent both of them problems?

  12. Sam123 said:

    Ok got the shoes they were size 10.5 in english.

    My big toe hurts a little when riding but maybe i have thick socks on and but if not thick my feet get cold with the hole under the base of the shoe.

    What can i do, to prevent both of them problems?

    To suggest the obvious, cover the hole with some tape ...

    In colder weather, wear some neoprene booties -- booties for MTB shoes have to be size for a shoe that is a couple of sizes larger than the shoe size.

    BTW. Different brands of shoes may have different size toe boxes & different size heel cups for a labeled size, so a 44 in one brand which has the same length may fit differently than a 44 in another brand of shoe -- for example, I currently wear a 44 Shimano & 45 SIDI.

    There is very little continuity in shoe sizes other than within a given line of shoes ... so, a size 44 Shimano MTB is the same as size 44 Shimano ROAD shoe ... and, I have found the same to be true for the size 45 SIDI MTB & ROAD shoes that I have.

    Personally, despite what Greg Lemond suggests (no offense, but he probably doesn't buy off-the-rack cycling shoes), I would rather have a pair of shoes which are an incrementally larger size (usually, one size Euro ... a half-size American) larger than a snug pair.

  13. alfeng said:

    I would rather have a pair of shoes which are an incrementally larger size (usually, one size Euro ... a half-size American) larger than a snug pair.

    The same would apply for me on any shoe I wear, tennis shoes, cycling shoes, formal shoes, etc.

  14. Ok the shoes 3/4 days old and already scratched/rough on the side of the foot when walking/slipping up hill when on a high gear trying to push up with 1 foot if you know what i mean.

    Is there any sort of cleaning anything that smooths it down or anything?

  15. Bumping.

  16. Anyone? :\

  17. Sam123 said:

    Ok the shoes 3/4 days old and already scratched/rough on the side of the foot when walking/slipping up hill when on a high gear trying to push up with 1 foot if you know what i mean.

    Is there any sort of cleaning anything that smooths it down or anything?

    If the soles are CF, then you can remove the cleats, plug the holes, tape off the uppers ... AND THEN, use some wet-dry sandpaper to smooth out the scratches ... wipe the dust off (OR, rinse with water & let dry) ... then, spray (the affected area of ...) the bottoms with some automotive clear coat.

    REPEAT AS NECESSARY.

    If the soles are nylon, you SOL unless you are really MORE patient than you will have to be to remedy a scratched CF sole.

    BTW. This is stating what you now probably know to be all too obvious, but if you find yourself walking more often than you had envisioned when you bought your shoes & pedals (or, vice versa), then you may want to buy a pair of MTB shoes.

  18. [QUOTE=alfeng;3912342 Personally, despite what Greg Lemond suggests (no offense, but he probably doesn't buy off-the-rack cycling shoes), I would rather have a pair of shoes which are an incrementally larger size (usually, one size Euro ... a half-size American) larger than a snug pair.[/QUOTE]

    My rule for fitting modern road cycling shoes is snug but not painful. There should be no excessive compression at the midfoot (causes Morton's neuroma), and there should be no pressure on the toes (causes bunions), but the fit should be closer than that of a pair of training flats for running.

  19. alfeng said:

    .. Personally, despite what Greg Lemond suggests (no offense, but he probably doesn't buy off-the-rack cycling shoes), I would rather have a pair of shoes which are an incrementally larger size (usually, one size Euro ... a half-size American) larger than a snug pair.

    FWIW, It may surprise you to know, that he actually does wear off the shelf cycling shoes now as he is no longer racing/training thousands of miles a year... I was simply relaying what his (and according to him is what a VAST majority professional cyclists) preferences are regarding form, fit, and function of a cycling shoe in the peloton. YMMV. 😉

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