measuring and swapping rims

27x1.4 said:

Don't laugh but how do I measure rims?

I have a choice of selling a pair of Mavic QR wheels or replacing their tubular rims with 'normal' rims and changing the axles to 'normal' axles. Though putting the correct tension back into the spokes, I'm going to leave to a cycle shop.

Any suggestions welcome, and no I don't frequent ebay!

Thanks in anticipation

27x1.4

27" wheels are ERTO 630 ...

700c wheels are ERTO 622 ... essentially, 622 is the measurement (in millimeters) of the diameter of the MIDDLE of the brake surface.

You can just look at the sidewall of most clincher tyres to see what the rim size is -- e.g., 630-32 would be a 27" wheel with a 27x1.25" tyre.

If you have tubular/(sew-up) rims, the brake area is the same as on a 700c rim, or vice-versa.

BTW. If you have 27" wheels, the spoke length MAY actually be the same spoke length you would use if you were relacing some tubular rims onto the particular hub, and vice-versa ...

The spokes length from some 27" wheels that are laced x3 may be the length of the spoke that would be used if the particular hub is laced x4 on some 700c rims ... but, maybe not.

A spoke length calculator should be used for determining the correct spoke length for any given rim/hub combination.

Thanks Alfeng

The markings on the side sof the tyre are illegible, hence my asking the question.

It makes economic sense (I hope) to replace the rims and axels, especially on the rear wheel since the space between dropouts is 127mm. Though perhaps the cycle shop will make me an offer of a reduction if I part-exchange the tubulars. Wishful thinking?!

Cheers
27x1.4 (novice I must add)

27x1.4 said:

Don't laugh but how do I measure rims?

I have a choice of selling a pair of Mavic QR wheels or replacing their tubular rims with 'normal' rims and changing the axles to 'normal' axles. Though putting the correct tension back into the spokes, I'm going to leave to a cycle shop.

Any suggestions welcome, and no I don't frequent ebay!

Sticker on rim says: RECORD DU MONDE DE L'HEURE

Thanks in anticipation

27x1.4

I think the 27x1.4 refers to his signature BUT...if the hubs are in good shape, yes you can reuse them and lace them to clincher rims. As for 'normal axles..they are 'QR', quick release..you want to put nutted solid axles in them?

For certain hubs, this is easy. If the hubs are 'Mavic' that probably isn't possible. If a normal threaded axle type hub, it is.

If the bike shop is worth it's salt, they can evaluate your hubs and relace to a variety of clincher rims.

Thanks for your helpful reply Peter.

The hubs have the inscription: "NORMANDY MADE IN FRANCE"

The shop says I need a pair of DRC 17s 700x622 cost £27.00 each!

Total cost of conversion including £8.00 each for normal axles and £15 each for the final tension/truing (beyond my competence) is £140.00!

However, what is interesting is even the shop owner was careful in measuring the wheel to determine 27" or 700. Of course it's so easy with clinches because one just try on a tyre with its size inscribed.

I still welcome suggestions.

Cheers
27x1.4

27x1.4 said:

The hubs have the inscription: "NORMANDY MADE IN FRANCE"

The shop says I need a pair of DRC 17s 700x622 cost £27.00 each!

Total cost of conversion including £8.00 each for normal axles and £15 each for the final tension/truing (beyond my competence) is £140.00!

Normany hubs!?! Those are really vintage wheels ...

There are Keepers-of-the-Flame cyclists who are on the look out for vintage components, particularly if the condition is good, so unless you are keen on the cosmetic appearance of the (presumably) Hi-Flange hubs, I recommend you sell the wheels & buy a new wheelset + 8-speed cassette ...

It is easy enough to re-space your bike's rear triangle to 130mm from 126mm ...

OR, it is also easy to change the spacing on a SHIMANO 'road' hub by removing the spacer on the non-drive side.

Since most frames with 126mm spacing are steel, it is better, IMO, to respace the frame since it will allow you to use ANY modern wheelset UNLESS there is a intent to keep the frame/etc. in a vintage condition.

The rear derailleur hanger should be re-aligned if the rear triangle is re-spaced ... both re-aligning + re-spacing the rear can be DIY projects if you are "handy"; but, a good LBS can do this for a small fee.

BTW. On one pair of Normandy hubs that I have which I decided to use for a Single Speed, I changed the axle/cones/bearings on the rear hub with Shimano axles/cones. I haven't bothered with the front hub, yet, only because it didn't need to be changed (well, I suppose the rear hub didn't NEED to be changed).