Well it is time to grease the bottom bracket of my SRAM Red. One
question, how do I do it?
IT has a inner and out hex.
http://flickr.com/photos/montym/2518980765/
There is also a rotation indicator arrow. So, what tools do I need and
how do i go about the disassembly and oh ya, the reassembly
Thanks
Monty
Cycling Equipment · Public discussion
SRAM Red BB Disassembly
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- Cycling Equipment
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- 24 May 2008
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- Monty
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Monty said:
Well it is time to grease the bottom bracket of my SRAM Red. One
question, how do I do it?
IT has a inner and out hex.
http://flickr.com/photos/montym/2518980765/
There is also a rotation indicator arrow. So, what tools do I need and
how do i go about the disassembly and oh ya, the reassembly
Thanks
MontySRAM publish quite good technical doc on their website see
<http://www.sram.com/en/service/>
Cheers
Joel
-
Monty said:
Well it is time to grease the bottom bracket of my SRAM Red. One
question, how do I do it?
IT has a inner and out hex.http://flickr.com/photos/montym/2518980765/
There is also a rotation indicator arrow. So, what tools do I need and
how do i go about the disassembly and oh ya, the reassembly
Thanks
Monty8mm allen, left-loosey. The outside bigger hex is to take the self
extractor out. Already got to the 100 hours or ride in the wet? Their
recs for these wunderbearings seem too frequent. I thought ceramics
last and last, solve all problems?? -
Lou Holtman said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.comwrote:
Quoted message said:
Monty said:
Well it is time to grease the bottom bracket of my SRAM Red. One
question, how do I do it?
IT has a inner and out hex.http://flickr.com/photos/montym/2518980765/
There is also a rotation indicator arrow. So, what tools do I need and
how do i go about the disassembly and oh ya, the reassembly
Thanks
MontyQuoted message said:
8mm allen, left-loosey. The outside bigger hex is to take the self
extractor out. Already got to the 100 hours or ride in the wet? Their
recs for these wunderbearings seem too frequent. I thought ceramics
last and last, solve all problems??That's exactly what I thought. 100 hours or after every wet ride? They
gotta be kidding... How long does the spindle crank interface last after
all that disassemble and assemble?Lou
Perhaps after the bearing races go south early(beautiful ceramic ball
bearinmgs tho) they can ask about 'proper' service' and then deny a
warranty. For somebody that rides a lot, 100 hours is like once every
2 months or so to OVH the BB. I OVH my cup and ball BB(1986 C-Record)
once per year, still turns smoother than any ceramic/cart bearing,
crank not flexy, not heavy...ball bearings are pennies..waitaminute-
ceramic 7/32 ball bearings! I'll be so fast!! -
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:
Lou Holtman said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.comwrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
On May 24, 5:08 pm, Monty <[email hidden]> wrote:
> Well it is time to grease the bottom bracket of my SRAM Red. One
> question, how do I do it?
> IT has a inner and out hex.http://flickr.com/photos/montym/2518980765/
> There is also a rotation indicator arrow. So, what tools do I need and
> how do i go about the disassembly and oh ya, the reassembly
> Thanks
> MontyQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
8mm allen, left-loosey. The outside bigger hex is to take the self
extractor out. Already got to the 100 hours or ride in the wet? Their
recs for these wunderbearings seem too frequent. I thought ceramics
last and last, solve all problems??Quoted message said:
That's exactly what I thought. 100 hours or after every wet ride? They
gotta be kidding... How long does the spindle crank interface last after
all that disassemble and assemble?Quoted message said:
Lou
Perhaps after the bearing races go south early(beautiful ceramic ball
bearinmgs tho) they can ask about 'proper' service' and then deny a
warranty. For somebody that rides a lot, 100 hours is like once every
2 months or so to OVH the BB. I OVH my cup and ball BB(1986 C-Record)
once per year, still turns smoother than any ceramic/cart bearing,
crank not flexy, not heavy...ball bearings are pennies..waitaminute-
ceramic 7/32 ball bearings! I'll be so fast!!So Peter, what will you do next year when Campy is slated to have
*all* bearings ceramic in Super Record (at least according to rumors)?Just to be clear, I'm no fan of ceramic myself, just wondering if
you're going to hold the proverbial nose if somebody asks you for
Super Record next year. 🙂 -
damyth said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:
Lou Holtman said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.comwrote:
> On May 24, 5:08 pm, Monty <[email hidden]> wrote:
>> Well it is time to grease the bottom bracket of my SRAM Red. One
>> question, how do I do it?
>> IT has a inner and out hex.http://flickr.com/photos/montym/2518980765/
>> There is also a rotation indicator arrow. So, what tools do I need and
>> how do i go about the disassembly and oh ya, the reassembly
>> Thanks
>> Monty
> 8mm allen, left-loosey. The outside bigger hex is to take the self
> extractor out. Already got to the 100 hours or ride in the wet? Their
> recs for these wunderbearings seem too frequent. I thought ceramics
> last and last, solve all problems??
That's exactly what I thought. 100 hours or after every wet ride? They
gotta be kidding... How long does the spindle crank interface last after
all that disassemble and assemble?
Lou
Perhaps after the bearing races go south early(beautiful ceramic ball
bearinmgs tho) they can ask about 'proper' service' and then deny a
warranty. For somebody that rides a lot, 100 hours is like once every
2 months or so to OVH the BB. I OVH my cup and ball BB(1986 C-Record)
once per year, still turns smoother than any ceramic/cart bearing,
crank not flexy, not heavy...ball bearings are pennies..waitaminute-
ceramic 7/32 ball bearings! I'll be so fast!!So Peter, what will you do next year when Campy is slated to have
*all* bearings ceramic in Super Record (at least according to rumors)?Just to be clear, I'm no fan of ceramic myself, just wondering if
you're going to hold the proverbial nose if somebody asks you for
Super Record next year. 🙂There is nothing wrong with ceramic bearings, but you might expect some
advantages for the price you pay. The overhaul intervals SRAM suggest
are ridiculous. If ceramic bearings or that design requires them we are
moving in the wrong direction.Lou
-
In article
<[email hidden]>,Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:
Lou Holtman said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.comwrote:
Quoted message said:
On May 24, 5:08 pm, Monty <[email hidden]> wrote:
> Well it is time to grease the bottom bracket of my SRAM Red. One
> question, how do I do it?
> IT has a inner and out hex.http://flickr.com/photos/montym/2518980765/
> There is also a rotation indicator arrow. So, what tools do I need and
> how do i go about the disassembly and oh ya, the reassembly
> Thanks
> MontyQuoted message said:
8mm allen, left-loosey. The outside bigger hex is to take the self
extractor out. Already got to the 100 hours or ride in the wet? Their
recs for these wunderbearings seem too frequent. I thought ceramics
last and last, solve all problems??That's exactly what I thought. 100 hours or after every wet ride? They
gotta be kidding... How long does the spindle crank interface last after
all that disassemble and assemble?Perhaps after the bearing races go south early(beautiful ceramic ball
bearinmgs tho) they can ask about 'proper' service' and then deny a
warranty. For somebody that rides a lot, 100 hours is like once every
2 months or so to OVH the BB. I OVH my cup and ball BB(1986 C-Record)
once per year, still turns smoother than any ceramic/cart bearing,
crank not flexy, not heavy...ball bearings are pennies..waitaminute-
ceramic 7/32 ball bearings! I'll be so fast!!I run a Campagnolo bottom bracket from those years.
The races seem to be something close to tool steel.
When I first opened the package and looked, the stuff
seemed so good that it glowed. It was the more surprising,
because it was closeout merchandise, selling for pennies;
and I did not expect the goodness.--
Michael Press -
Quoted message said:
Already got to the 100 hours or ride in the wet?
Well, I have 3236 miles on the RED group (both trainer and road
miles) I suspect they do not need maintenance, but I am getting a
knock and a... for lack of a better term, a squeak with every pedal
stroke. I suspect it is the pedals. I have over 55,000 miles on them
and a new set is on order. I just wanto be sure the BB is ok.Thanks to every for advice and comments.
Monty
-
damyth said:
On May 25, 6:07 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"
Quoted message said:
On May 25, 6:17 am, Lou Holtman <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.comwrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> On May 24, 5:08 pm, Monty <[email hidden]> wrote:
>> Well it is time to grease the bottom bracket of my SRAM Red. One
>> question, how do I do it?
>> IT has a inner and out hex.http://flickr.com/photos/montym/2518980765/
>> There is also a rotation indicator arrow. So, what tools do I need and
>> how do i go about the disassembly and oh ya, the reassembly
>> Thanks
>> MontyQuoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> 8mm allen, left-loosey. The outside bigger hex is to take the self
> extractor out. Already got to the 100 hours or ride in the wet? Their
> recs for these wunderbearings seem too frequent. I thought ceramics
> last and last, solve all problems??Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
That's exactly what I thought. 100 hours or after every wet ride? They
gotta be kidding... How long does the spindle crank interface last after
all that disassemble and assemble?Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Lou
Quoted message said:
Perhaps after the bearing races go south early(beautiful ceramic ball
bearinmgs tho) they can ask about 'proper' service' and then deny a
warranty. For somebody that rides a lot, 100 hours is like once every
2 months or so to OVH the BB. I OVH my cup and ball BB(1986 C-Record)
once per year, still turns smoother than any ceramic/cart bearing,
crank not flexy, not heavy...ball bearings are pennies..waitaminute-
ceramic 7/32 ball bearings! I'll be so fast!!So Peter, what will you do next year when Campy is slated to have
*all* bearings ceramic in Super Record (at least according to rumors)?Just to be clear, I'm no fan of ceramic myself, just wondering if
you're going to hold the proverbial nose if somebody asks you for
Super Record next year. 🙂I don't hold my nose now for many things. BUT if somebody asks my
opinion, I cite Lennard and others who have done real testing about
this latest 'thing'.BTW-I think the Centaur design for 2007 was a huge mistake. I think
Campagnolo's cogset ratio offerings are really dum. I lump Campagnolo
wheelsouttaboxes along with most others(altho they do start with good
hubs, like shimano, unlike Mavic). Electronic is a gizmo, BUT they
don't listen to me or other bike shop guys. Of the 3 makers, I still
like Campagnolo the best for lots of practical and aesthetic reasons,
I dislike Sram for the hype and poor functionality of the left
shifter. I admire shimano for where they have taken the bike, but
dislike their 'gorilla in the room' mentality.Jus cuz I have a Campagnolo tattoo(modified by 'Tullio and his birth
and death dates, may he rest in peace), doesn't mean I love all about
them. Besides, the heart of the bike is the frame anyway, all else are
really consumables. There is plenty of silliness going on these days
in frame design to go around. -
damyth said:
Just to be clear, I'm no fan of ceramic myself,
In an article in TOUR about resistance in the drivetrain, the author stated
that ceramic bearings really bring you next to nothing and are a waste of
money. It was also said that ceramic bearings belong where other bearings
fail, because of extreme heat or very high RPM.Derk
-
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:
BTW-I think the Centaur design for 2007 was a huge mistake.
You mean the downgrade of the hubs and shifters in exchange for a few
carbon bits? I like how the 2007 Centaur RD, with its carbon outer
link is actually HEAVIER than the prior model, because it has the
solid top knuckle, instead of the 2-beam one. And how the Centaur
carbon UT crank has the cheap stamped "Exa-Drive" chainrings of Veloce
and below, while the aluminum crank still has the good forged "Ultra-
Drive" rings.That's why my Guerciotti is equipped with old Centaur, except for the
aluminum UT crank. I wouldn't turn down a set of the skeleton brakes,
but the old ones were $35 on closeout. An excellent, no-nonsense group
with all the best features of the top groups (especially the
adjustable bearings on the hubs), just made of cheap 'n' cheerful
alloy instead of carbon. -
In article
<[email hidden]>,Hank said:
Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:
BTW-I think the Centaur design for 2007 was a huge mistake.
You mean the downgrade of the hubs and shifters in exchange for a few
carbon bits? I like how the 2007 Centaur RD, with its carbon outer
link is actually HEAVIER than the prior model, because it has the
solid top knuckle, instead of the 2-beam one. And how the Centaur
carbon UT crank has the cheap stamped "Exa-Drive" chainrings of Veloce
and below, while the aluminum crank still has the good forged "Ultra-
Drive" rings.That's why my Guerciotti is equipped with old Centaur, except for the
aluminum UT crank. I wouldn't turn down a set of the skeleton brakes,
but the old ones were $35 on closeout. An excellent, no-nonsense group
with all the best features of the top groups (especially the
adjustable bearings on the hubs), just made of cheap 'n' cheerful
alloy instead of carbon.IT WAS ALL DOWNHILL AFTER RECORD-9 Ti! I HAVE THE LAST, BEST GROUPO EVER
MADE!No, seriously, I feel the pain of those who like last year's model the
best, but it's funny. On one hand, I really like brifters (and I prefer
Campy's design to Shimano's, though not enough to not have STI-bikes),
and on the other hand, I ride a commuter bike with friction shifting
across 5 rear cogs.The dirty secret is how simple and pleasant that bike is. With 5
widely-spaced cogs, friction shifting is no big deal. It doesn't have
nice ramps, pins, missing teeth, or hyper-shaped cogs, so sometimes the
shifting is a little slow, especially since I don't lube the derailers
much and thus they sometimes are dirty and balky about the small cog and
ring.Oh well. They just work, and they cause no fuss.
Like I said, I like brifters a lot, but only when I'm racing. For actual
riding around town, The old two-DTs-and-no-fuss has much to recommend it.I'm also experimenting with an Alfine 8 hub, and it's...really cool! I'm
not sure it's cool enough to take over from Sora as the commuter
geartrain of choice, but it's fun.--
Ryan Cousineau [email hidden] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"In other newsgroups, they killfile trolls."
"In rec.bicycles.racing, we coach them." -
Hank said:
On May 26, 5:41 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"
Quoted message said:
BTW-I think the Centaur design for 2007 was a huge mistake.
You mean the downgrade of the hubs and shifters in exchange for a few
carbon bits? I like how the 2007 Centaur RD, with its carbon outer
link is actually HEAVIER than the prior model, because it has the
solid top knuckle, instead of the 2-beam one. And how the Centaur
carbon UT crank has the cheap stamped "Exa-Drive" chainrings of Veloce
and below, while the aluminum crank still has the good forged "Ultra-
Drive" rings.Yep, the innards of the shifters are ala Xenon. They took Veloce bits,
added carbon and called it Centaur.Quoted message said:
That's why my Guerciotti is equipped with old Centaur, except for the
aluminum UT crank. I wouldn't turn down a set of the skeleton brakes,
but the old ones were $35 on closeout. An excellent, no-nonsense group
with all the best features of the top groups (especially the
adjustable bearings on the hubs), just made of cheap 'n' cheerful
alloy instead of carbon.We still can get most of the 2006 Centaur stuff altho prices for ERGO
and hubs have skyrocketed. -
Ryan Cousineau said:
In article
<[email hidden]>,Hank said:
On May 26, 5:41 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"
<[email hidden]> wrote:Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
BTW-I think the Centaur design for 2007 was a huge mistake.
Quoted message said:
You mean the downgrade of the hubs and shifters in exchange for a few
carbon bits? I like how the 2007 Centaur RD, with its carbon outer
link is actually HEAVIER than the prior model, because it has the
solid top knuckle, instead of the 2-beam one. And how the Centaur
carbon UT crank has the cheap stamped "Exa-Drive" chainrings of Veloce
and below, while the aluminum crank still has the good forged "Ultra-
Drive" rings.Quoted message said:
That's why my Guerciotti is equipped with old Centaur, except for the
aluminum UT crank. I wouldn't turn down a set of the skeleton brakes,
but the old ones were $35 on closeout. An excellent, no-nonsense group
with all the best features of the top groups (especially the
adjustable bearings on the hubs), just made of cheap 'n' cheerful
alloy instead of carbon.IT WAS ALL DOWNHILL AFTER RECORD-9 Ti! I HAVE THE LAST, BEST GROUPO EVER
MADE!Nope I have the best made, 1989 C-Record/Delta and also 1987 Suoper
Record.Quoted message said:
No, seriously, I feel the pain of those who like last year's model the
best, but it's funny. On one hand, I really like brifters (and I prefer
Campy's design to Shimano's, though not enough to not have STI-bikes),
and on the other hand, I ride a commuter bike with friction shifting
across 5 rear cogs.The dirty secret is how simple and pleasant that bike is. With 5
widely-spaced cogs, friction shifting is no big deal. It doesn't have
nice ramps, pins, missing teeth, or hyper-shaped cogs, so sometimes the
shifting is a little slow, especially since I don't lube the derailers
much and thus they sometimes are dirty and balky about the small cog and
ring.Oh well. They just work, and they cause no fuss.
Like I said, I like brifters a lot, but only when I'm racing. For actual
riding around town, The old two-DTs-and-no-fuss has much to recommend it.I'm also experimenting with an Alfine 8 hub, and it's...really cool! I'm
not sure it's cool enough to take over from Sora as the commuter
geartrain of choice, but it's fun.--
Ryan Cousineau [email hidden]://www.wiredcola.com/
"In other newsgroups, they killfile trolls."
"In rec.bicycles.racing, we coach them." -
Derk said:
damyth said:
Just to be clear, I'm no fan of ceramic myself,
In an article in TOUR about resistance in the drivetrain, the author stated
that ceramic bearings really bring you next to nothing and are a waste of
money. It was also said that ceramic bearings belong where other bearings
fail, because of extreme heat or very high RPM.Derk
'Worth' is a big word and the money spent on ceramics, by the 'why
train when you buy speed' crowd, may seem worth it to them. Placebo is
another big word.
As I have said more than once, significant performance gains come from
4 things, all starting with 'F' and none of them involve the bike
-bike Fit
-Fat, lackthereof on you(Lemond called it being 'artificially light,
Lance found out too)
-Fitness-being fiy
-Finese-riding/racing smart
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