best hub

quax are good, but their not wide, which is a desireable coker quality

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The original Coker hubs are pretty narrow too, but I'm not sure what the
difference may be, if any. I think those original hubs are pretty good;
mine's fine after thousands of miles. There is probably a UDC hub
that's equivalent if you want to be safe and put on a new one.

No word on the new Coker handles but I'm chomping at the bit to try one
out too. At this point they're probably waiting for a container to
arrive, and those things just happen when they happen. Hopefully they
will announce when the things are available to order!

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kdawg- I know the wisdom with 36er hubs is to go with wide ones for a
strong wheel build but with KH dual drilled cranks out and about i
would consider maybe going for an ISIS hub and just invest in a really
well done wheel build. Unless of course you can get your hands on some
of those sweet drilled Kooka cranks i have seen about on the forums.
The new nimbus rims look pretty nice and light as well,
mark

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You want a UDC extra wide hub and nimbus nightrider pro rim.

Corbin

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napalm said:

kdawg- I know the wisdom with 36er hubs is to go with wide ones for a
strong wheel build but with KH dual drilled cranks out and about i
would consider maybe going for an ISIS hub and just invest in a really
well done wheel build. Unless of course you can get your hands on some
of those sweet drilled Kooka cranks i have seen about on the forums.
The new nimbus rims look pretty nice and light as well,
mark

I agree, but the Isis hubs are usually 42 mm bearing sizes. You can
machine put your 40mm to larger but if you want to go that route I
strongly reccommend a kh schlumph hub.

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ya i wanted to get the kh hub with the two hole cranks but those are
42mm bearings and i dont want to have my bearing holders machined. it
would be nice if they made them with 40mm bearings, but my research
here has come up with many people asking about them and many people
saying it wont happen for cost reasons.

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kdawg said:

ya i wanted to get the kh hub with the two hole cranks but those are
42mm bearings and i dont want to have my bearing holders machined. it
would be nice if they made them with 40mm bearings, but my research
here has come up with many people asking about them and many people
saying it wont happen for cost reasons.

If you've got one of the original coker frames or one of the UDC radial
frames it will work with the KH hub even though its designed for 40mm.
Its what I'm going to do. I'll be running a KH ISIS hub with the
nightrider pro rim.

I've had my Nimbus ISIS trials wheel on the Nimbus round crown frame
which is designed for 40mm for several months and its doing fine. As
long as the holders aren't machined you should be okay.

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corbin said:

You want a UDC extra wide hub and nimbus nightrider pro rim.

Corbin

Nah, go for a Std Width hub with a good wheelbuild unless you're
particularly heavy.

The extra-wide hubs give a stronger wheel, but I've not had any
problems with my UDC hub. It's been used for thousands of Km's both on
and off-road.

If I was building a new wheel now, I'd build it with a Nimbus ISIS hub.
Although I might wait until a lighter ISIS hub comes out :p

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I've just had to make the same decision - I wanted to upgrade my coker
wheel and had to decide whether to play safe with a wide hub or go with
the convenience of ISIS.

My old wheel is a steel rim with UDC super-wide hub, and has stayed
very straight, presumably partly to do with the wide hub. But a few
people I know have been riding normal width hubs (and one really narrow
Suzue) with airfoil rims and had no problems. So I decided to go with
a Nimbus ISIS hub and Stealth Pro rim. Roger (UDC UK) didn't seem to
think I was too much of a fool... I'm sure with Roger's wheel build
and sensible use it'll be fine. I'm not _really_ heavy, but at 12
stone I'm certainly a bit heavier than the likes of Ken and Sam W. But
I don't do anything really silly like hops and drops on the coker -
strictly light xc - so my wheel gets a fairly easy life compared to
some.

Rob

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I am wondering why so many people are going for the dual drilled moments
on their cokers. I would love these cranks but what is the point of
the 150's? If I had these cranks, I would only use the 125mm holes
because riding a 36 with 150's seems quite long.

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How are all of you fitting the 42mm isis hub in a 40 mm bearing holder?

Just shoving it in will damage the bearing causing it to prematurely
fail.

I agree with the others; an ISIS hub is the way to go, and the extra
width of an extra-wide isn't 100% required. I've switched to the KH hub
on my Nimbus 36, and it has been fine -- even with running a brake.

corbin

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GizmoDuck said:

Nah, go for a Std Width hub with a good wheelbuild unless you're
particularly heavy.

The extra-wide hubs give a stronger wheel, but I've not had any
problems with my UDC hub. It's been used for thousands of Km's both on
and off-road.

If I was building a new wheel now, I'd build it with a Nimbus ISIS hub.
Although I might wait until a lighter ISIS hub comes out :p

I think that is great advice, but the extra wide hub will run a brake
better than a standard width hub. In general, you don't run a brake,
right?

But, having said that, I've had a brake rub with the extra wide hub
going up really steep hills. I had to solve it by moving to a cable
brake.

corbin

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corbin said:

How are all of you fitting the 42mm isis hub in a 40 mm bearing holder?

Just shoving it in will damage the bearing causing it to prematurely
fail.

If that was directed at me, then yes, I'm just going to shove it in.
I've been told by various trustworthy people that the cheap pressed
bearing holders will bend enough - they're not exactly a precision fit
even on 40mm bearings after all. Obviously it's not as good as proper
machined holders but bearings are so cheap I'm willing to take the
risk. If I keep killing bearings I'll have to buy a new frame, but
I've got nothing to lose by trying it (except £5 worth of bearings).

Rob

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rob.northcott said:

If that was directed at me, then yes, I'm just going to shove it in.
I've been told by various trustworthy people that the cheap pressed
bearing holders will bend enough - they're not exactly a precision fit
even on 40mm bearings after all. Obviously it's not as good as proper
machined holders but bearings are so cheap I'm willing to take the
risk. If I keep killing bearings I'll have to buy a new frame, but
I've got nothing to lose by trying it (except £5 worth of bearings).

Rob

I further this, I ran 42mm on an old KH 03 hub in a 40mm nimbus frame
for years, no problems. Ther is no shoving involved, the clamps just
don't close so close together when tightened. I know it's not ideal but
there's hardly a lot on the line.

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kington99 said:

the clamps just don't close so close together when tightened.

Bit of a threadjack, but...
Did you need longer bolts then? Are they easy to get hold of with that
funny head or do people just use normal bolts?

Rob

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I guess the obvious question is "What do you want out of your Coker?"

The Nimbus ISIS hub is great and so are the KH dual-hole cranks, but
there are issues such as the bearing holder issue and width.

The extra-wide (or even just wide) UDC hubs are the standard for this
application. They are cheap and the right part for the job. I really do
like the idea of the dual-hole cranks, but my opinion is that they are
overkill for this application.

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If you stay w/ cotterless, you could double drill 'Prowheel'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=847) cranks 'like Mark
did' (http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61735).

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rob.northcott said:

If that was directed at me, then yes, I'm just going to shove it in.
I've been told by various trustworthy people that the cheap pressed
bearing holders will bend enough - they're not exactly a precision fit
even on 40mm bearings after all. Obviously it's not as good as proper
machined holders but bearings are so cheap I'm willing to take the
risk. If I keep killing bearings I'll have to buy a new frame, but
I've got nothing to lose by trying it (except £5 worth of bearings).

Rob

Yes --- it was to everyone in general who has done it. Thanks for the
answers!

I believe the Nimbus 36" frame has machined bearing holders. I simply
made a 42mm template out of cardboard, and then carefully dremmeled out
the inside diameter of my holders until they perfectly fit the 42mm
template. I used a wheel disk thingy to do the dremmelling (i can find
out what, if anyone needs to know). I then put on some 42mm caps
(pretty cheap on UDC), and that gave me the ability to put my KH
Schlumpf hub into the frame. I'd recommend this route over pressing in
the bearings, if you have access to a Dremal or some other rotary tool.
It was fairly easy to do.

I had considered pressing it in without modifying the holders, which
seemed possible, but it also put a lot of stress on the bearings. Just
my 2 cents!

corbin

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corbin said:

I believe the Nimbus 36" frame has machined bearing holders. I simply
made a 42mm template out of cardboard, and then carefully dremmeled out
the inside diameter of my holders until they perfectly fit the 42mm
template. I used a wheel disk thingy to do the dremmelling (i can find
out what, if anyone needs to know). I then put on some 42mm caps
(pretty cheap on UDC), and that gave me the ability to put my KH
Schlumpf hub into the frame. I'd recommend this route over pressing in
the bearings, if you have access to a Dremal or some other rotary tool.
It was fairly easy to do.

Cool, I figured that would be possible, as it's such a little bit of
metal to machine away, and it's good to hear that someone has actually
done it.

Joe

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