KH/Schlumpf issue

I had the same issue with my right crank, it came loose quite a lot. I
just kept on retightening the bolt, and eventually took a torque wrench
to it and applied 25 foot pounds to it. Just make sure that if you do
that you are turning it controlled and don't strip the bolt. Luckily I
am not having the same issue as you with the crank scraping against the
bearing holder/frame. I am not sure what you can do about that, email
Florian or Kris and see if they have a solution. Hopefully Kris will
see this thread and give you a response because I am curious as to what
can be done in case my crank ever gets pressed on too far and scraps
the frame.

I am not averaging 20mph on my geared 29er, but some were saying that
they -could- average 20mph for a while easily on a geared 36. I am not
sure how long that has been sustained though.

What size cranks are you using and what type of cranks are you using?
I am using the dual drilled KH moment cranks and I have my pedals in
the 125mm slot and I find that I can go quite fast with this set up.

As far as turning goes...I have no problem making sharp turns in high
gear. Just keep on working on it and lean into the turn.

--
siafirede

'DCuni' (http://www.dcuni.com/blog) - my blog about Unicycling in
Washington DC, Virginia, Maryland

James = my name
'This' (http://www.myspace.com/clawsout) = my myspace
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Also, this might be of interest, but through two separate emails to
Florian a while ago, I asked about how much torque I should use when
installing the bolt and if I could use Loctite (which I have not dont
yet, and if my crank stays attached now which it has been doing
recently, I will not use it):

my first question: "I have the KH/Schlumpf muni hub and I was wondering
if it would be alright to use Loctite on the ISIS crank bolt? If so,
what kind of Loctite should I use? I am considering this because my
right crank arm has come loose several times now while riding, and I
want to make sure that it would be alright to use Loctite before I
actually do it."

Quoted message said:

we never used Loctite for the axle bolts so far. Is it, that you didn’t
tighten it enough? If you want to use Loctite, please take only one
with medium strength, that is disattachable.

My other question to him was "What is the recommended torque in foot
pounds or inch pounds for the crank arm bolts on the KH/Schlumpf muni
hub?"

response:

Quoted message said:

Tightening torque is 35 – 50Nm.

Best regards

Florian

Hope that helps.

--
siafirede

'DCuni' (http://www.dcuni.com/blog) - my blog about Unicycling in
Washington DC, Virginia, Maryland

James = my name
'This' (http://www.myspace.com/clawsout) = my myspace
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yeah 20 mph on a 36 geared. I think i've had my 29 up to 20 mph but only
as a maximum, not for any length of time.

Turning is just something to get the hang of, it acts kind of like a
big wheel but kind of not.
Joe

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After riding some more, I don't think 20mph will be a realistic
all-conditions flat-ground average for my geared 36. I think the number
will be closer to 18.5 or so. Right now, still lacking some confidence
(less and less though) my "happy" speed on a smooth without wind seems
to be 17.5 or 18, and I'm hoping that'll increase. I can easily pick it
up to 20 and hold it there for a good non-sprinting amount of time, but
for an entire long (say, 50-mile) ride, 20 seems a mph or two too fast.
Maybe once I shorten my 165 cranks and have a month or two of riding
under my belt 20 will become more realistic, but for now, 17.5-18 is
where it's at given the bumpiness of roads and the unpredictability of
wind. With a tailwind, 20 is quite easy, but even small deviations from
the ideal cost me a big hit in speed. I think I still have some
improvement to do, but I'm slowly learning what's possible for me.

--
chuckaeronut

Uni to work, work to eat, eat to live, live to uni. 🙂
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siafirede: Im using dual drilled moments, 125/150. The pedals are at 125
now.
Thanks for the tips, lets hope Kris sees this 🙂

joemarshall: I was hoping that was for 36". I too have reached almost
20 mph, but that was downhill, and I UPD:d doing it (that was fun
though, I intuetively rolled, didn't hurt at all). Not something I
could do for a long time..

The thing that bothers me with turning is that when I try to lean
sideways the wheel doesnt want to, it just stays vertical. In low gear
I can lean as much as the wheel, but whenever in high gear the wheel is
straight and I have to bend a lot at the hip.

--
henque19
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henque19 said:

The thing that bothers me with turning is that when I try to lean
sideways the wheel doesnt want to, it just stays vertical. In low gear
I can lean as much as the wheel, but whenever in high gear the wheel is
straight and I have to bend a lot at the hip.

I think you are experiencing the flywheel effect. As unicyclists, we are
all used to the behaviors of a wheel moving at 1:1 ratio, including the
knowledge that a 36" wheel tends to be heavy, and harder to move.

Change the ratio to 1.5:1 and increase the speed, and that wheel
resists more. Imagine how a rider steers a 350kg motorcycle. You can
make instant changes in direction, but *not* by waiting for the cycle
to lean over. You have to force the issue. On the motorcycle, this is
easy to do by pushing forward on the handlebar on the side toward which
you want to turn. Want to turn right? Push on the right handlebar.
Sounds counter-intuitive? That may be why it's called counter-steering.
That push makes the front wheel go left, which causes the cycle to lean
over to the right. It's actually very easy to do.

On a unicycle, you have to twist at the hip to start the process. Want
to turn right? twist the wheel a bit to the left. Instant lean. This is
a key skill in making fast times through the IUF Obstacle Course
(race). On a Coker you'll want to learn the skill bit by bit. Stick
with it!

--
johnfoss

John Foss
Email: "jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com
-----------------------------------------------

Man with broken collar bone say: "Have you checked your shoelaces
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Sorry to thread jack, but I've been debating whether to go with a geared
29er or 36er. I like the feeling of being over 6 feet tall on a coker,
but I also like the portability and climbing ability of a 29er. It
seems logical to me that if speeds greater than 20 mph are possible on
a geared 36 with 165mm cranks, then those speeds could also be achieved
on a geared 29 with 125s. Has anyone had experience on both a geared
36er and 29er that could help answer this question? -Jason

--
fatlardboy13

"only a fool would quote this quote"
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fatlardboy13 said:

Sorry to thread jack, but I've been debating whether to go with a geared
29er or 36er. I like the feeling of being over 6 feet tall on a coker,
but I also like the portability and climbing ability of a 29er. It
seems logical to me that if speeds greater than 20 mph are possible on
a geared 36 with 165mm cranks, then those speeds could also be achieved
on a geared 29 with 125s. Has anyone had experience on both a geared
36er and 29er that could help answer this question? -Jason

I have hit 20mph on a geared 29 with 125s. It's comparable in speed to
a geared 36er with 152s; perhaps a smidge slower.

One nice advantage of the 29er; in traffic, you can pop it down into
low gear to easily idle at a stop light.

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johnfoss said:

On a unicycle, you have to twist at the hip to start the process. Want
to turn right? twist the wheel a bit to the left. Instant lean. This is
a key skill in making fast times through the IUF Obstacle Course
(race).

I can attest to John's expertise in this area, having witnessed his
impressive performance in the event at NAUCC2007. Bravo, John, not only
for the smooth run, but for all the encouragement and assistance you
provided to the younger competitors. I only wish I had recorded it.

--
beginnerdad
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Well, I've tried the counter-stereing for a bit now and it really
works!
Thanks a lot johnfoss!!

It doesnt work perfectly yet, but I realize that I just need more
training.

--
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