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Need ideas for 36" tire tread

Started by unisk8r · · Last activity · 17 posts · 336 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
14 March 2008
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20 March 2008
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unisk8r
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  1. I have contacted a tubular tire company about making the world's first
    tubular 36" uni tire. Meaning a sew-up, where the tire & tube are one
    unit, and mounted with glue to a hookless rim.

    Tubular tires offer much lighter weight and less rolling resistance,
    although some don't like the fact that you have to carry a spare and
    some glue in the event of a flat.

    Anyway, this company is willing to make the casing with tube inside.
    But they do not actually make the rubber tread. Their standard practice
    is for te customer to strip a tread off another (cheaper heavier) tire,
    and they attach the tread to their casing.

    Since the only 36" tires we have are clinchers, I don't know if it is
    possible to strip off a tread that they could attach to the new tubular
    casing.

    It seems the tread would be a loop of rubber about 4cm wide, 4mm thick,
    and 36" around (the same circumference as current tires). It would be
    ideal to have a fine cross-pattern for the tread.

    Thus: does anyone have any suggestions for finding a 36" loop of rubber
    with such a tread pattern already on it?

    I feel that this is a project worth pursuing, as tubulars rule the bike
    world for performance applications, and don't go flat any more than
    clinchers.

    PS: please, no comments on how modern bike clinchers are just as good
    as tublars...that is NOT our situation with the current crop of heavy
    36" tires!

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  2. If it requires cannibalizing a brand new 36" tire, how much are these
    things likely to cost? Or could you use the tread from two "regular"
    tires? That could be a lot cheaper, and also give you way more choices.
    But still it sounds pretty expensive...

    --
    johnfoss

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  3. Let me clarify. The tire company makes cotton and silk casings. All I
    need to do is supply a continuous loop of rubber tread that they will
    vulcanize to the casing to complete the prototype. If it goes into
    production, they will be more interested in sourcing the treads
    themselves.

    So the tread has to be a continuous loop of rubber. I wasn't suggesting
    that it absolutely had to be from a new 36" tire, although that would
    seem to make it easier and guarantee the right size. But it cannot be 2
    pieces fused together. Then you would have a sound and possibly a bump
    twice per revolution.

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  4. Very interesting. I really would like a 36" tire at half the weight. No
    matter how long it would last or be priced.

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    unijuul

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  5. As long as the two joins are made neatly and accurately, I don't think
    that you would notice any kind of bump when riding. And, as been
    mentioned already, the choice of 26" tyre treads is extensive (and
    cheap). The fact that it's a prototype should be enough of a reason
    to choose a good tread design firstly and worry about the slight joint
    mis-match less.

    STM

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    semach.the.monkey
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  6. semach.the.monkey said:

    worry about the slight joint mis-match less.

    Which surely can be sanded/shaved off afterwards for the prototype?

    --
    jamessd


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  7. unisk8r nice going, looking into a lighter tire/tube for the 36" wheel.
    This combo tire tube is something I'm not familiar with, but sounds
    like a great solution.

    --
    Chrashing

    Regards,
    Ken

    I've been flying.......
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  8. Here's a thousand more words:

    http://www.worldclasscycles.com/dugast_strada_cotton.htm

    --
    unisk8r
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  9. unisk8r said:

    Around 50 sounds good. I know the Nightrider is rated to 65psi, but what
    do folks think about that? I have only briefly inflated a coker tire to
    that pressure, and it is too hard for my liking. The idea of a tubular
    tire would make for less rolling resistance at 30-50psi. Thus
    maintaining some semblance of tire suspension effect.

    hence maybe I just get a 4mm thick piece of rubber and cut a loop to
    shape.

    Since the big goal here is to make a light tire, the best
    combination would be a very thin tread layer and very high pressure.
    If the Coker tire you briefly inflated to 65 psi felt too hard it's
    probably because the tread is very thick. I would imagine it's around
    5 or 6 mm. It would feel like you're riding a truck tire. I like to
    keep my tire pumped up to at least 80 psi. When it gets down to 60 or
    70 it starts to feel soft, a little slow to turn and vulnerable to
    bumps.
    If you thin out the tread to 2 mm and add that to the casing which
    is probably less than 1 mm then the tire becomes suitably light. It
    also is much more pliable than a thicker tire. Not only will this very
    thin tire need high pressure to maintain its support but it will feel
    great precisely because it is so pliable.
    I just took my callipers and measured a new Continental Contact
    tire 28 X 1 1/4 X 1 3/4. (It's my preferred tire right now.) Its total
    thickness came in under 3 mm. So if you were to glue a 4 mm tread to a
    casing that would put the tire thickness up at about 5 mm which would
    translate to a needlessly heavy tire.
    The tires on that link you gave us can be inflated up above 100
    psi. Now those are fast and light tires! I'll bet they're less than 2
    mm thick.
    What are they using in their casing? Given the option, I'd
    recommend getting a layer of kevlar in there. I wore my last two tires
    down to the threads without getting any flats.
    A light tire is so much more responsive in accellerating and
    turning. I always find riding one of those fat tires to be really
    sluggish and cumbersome. Yes, they're perfect for Muni and Trials but
    if you want to cover some distance then we'll need to keep developing
    skinnier tires.
    Even though sew ups give me the heebie jeebies, they are apealing if
    the alternative is a 1900 gram lunk run at 50 psi.
    Thanks for putting in the work on product development. This is how
    great ideas become standard production models.

    --
    naturequack

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  10. naturequack said:

    Not only will this very thin tire need high pressure to maintain its
    support

    Yes, I think that you're looking at high pressure, and a thin tire. An
    Airfoil-width tubular at 50 psi would be a mushy nightmare, I imagine.

    --
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  11. Greatly appreciate the input, you guys are on the right path here. I
    agree the harshness of a higher pressure would be offset with the
    suppleness of a thinner tread. So maybe I shoot for 2mm thick tread?

    Problem is still finding a continuous loop with a 113" circumference.
    Further thoughts?

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  12. Why not use a rubber rim strip? Or are they too soft..

    The biggest problem I see with a flat piece of rubber is that without
    all that little detailing, which I guess is tread, that you see on
    bmx/road tires, turning will suck. But having a working prototype would
    be enough, I agree.

    sew up 36 tires sound cool. Especially so if having to carry a spare
    meant only as much as a 29er tube weighs now anyways. I tend to ride my
    coker at 60psi or so when doing long distance, I hate the mushy feel
    when I'm riding up hills, so I could see myself having 80+ on a 'pure
    road' unicycle, especially with thin tread.

    --
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  13. unisk8r said:

    So maybe I shoot for 2mm thick tread?

    Problem is still finding a continuous loop with a 113" circumference.
    Further thoughts?

    2 mm sounds perfect to me. About the only source that I can think of
    is cutting apart an innertube. You'd gett a nice thin rubber strip
    that is already curved to fit the casing.
    Of course it's too soft and would wear out in about 5 miles, but this
    is a prototype after all.

    --
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  14. I still can't see why you cant just use a flat strip of rubber which
    could just be butted up to itself in the vulcanizing process.

    I am sure that these tires would be expensive if they ever become a
    production item. Could you repeatedly get your tire re-treaded when
    they wear out? Or would they be done once the tread is worn through?

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  15. Wouldnt it be a 34" tubular? if the tire is going to be the width of the
    rim (approx 1"😉 would the diameter not decrease by 2". if your doing
    that there is going to be at least one seam, and if your having one
    seam why not make it 2?

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  16. unicyclist.ca said:

    Wouldnt it be a 34" tubular? if the tire is going to be the width of the
    rim (approx 1"😉 would the diameter not decrease by 2".

    Might want to re-read this thread. No one suggested the tire would be
    the width of the rim. The tire section will be at least 2", but I don't
    think it necessarily needs to be the current standard of 2 1/4". The
    section plus the tread = the total diameter.
    Plus, tubulars are more supple than clinchers, so we may not need the
    full section width to get a suspension effect with the tire.

    Quoted message said:

    if your doing that there is going to be at least one seam, and if your
    having one seam why not make it 2?

    I never said there was going to be a seam (referring to the tread). The
    ideal tread is a continuous loop of rubber, which is adhered to the
    casing. Think a large rim strip!

    And yes, tubulars can be re-treaded! As long as the casing stays in
    good order.

    I'm going to ejukate you guys on tire technology whether you want it or
    not! 😄

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  17. unisk8r said:

    Might want to re-read this thread. No one suggested the tire would be
    the width of the rim. The tire section will be at least 2", but I don't
    think it necessarily needs to be the current standard of 2 1/4". The
    section plus the tread = the total diameter.
    Plus, tubulars are more supple than clinchers, so we may not need the
    full section width to get a suspension effect with the tire.

    I never said there was going to be a seam (referring to the tread). The
    ideal tread is a continuous loop of rubber, which is adhered to the
    casing. Think a large rim strip!

    And yes, tubulars can be re-treaded! As long as the casing stays in
    good order.

    I'm going to ejukate you guys on tire technology whether you want it or
    not! 😄

    AHHHHHH! (runs away from the man with the tire edumacation)

    this thread is really interesting, so would these tires essentially be
    tubeless?

    --
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