Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?
UK and Europe · Public discussion
Pannier Rack recommendations please.
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- salmon
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salmon said:
I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder.Working from my own experience of these, you probably don't... use a
separate bungie rather than a sprung arm built into a rack, far more
reliable (I've not seen the dedicated bike rack bungees very popular in
NL in this country: shame, they're miles better than anything I've seen
here).http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ will sell you a perfectly serviceable
rack for the princely sum of £12.95Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ -
"salmon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?If you mean something like this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bike-pannier-rack-Lightweight-hollow-tubed-alloy_W0QQitemZ120228187018QQihZ002QQcategoryZ56198QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemThen that is one place to start. There are plenty on there and some are
cheaper than thisI'm sure that any local cycling shops should be able to help you too.
Dave
-
"salmon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?With reference to my last message if you look here
http://search.ebay.co.uk/rack_W0QQa10244ZQ2d24QQa14ZQ2d24QQa6ZQ2d24QQalistZa6Q2ca14Q2ca10244QQcatrefZC6QQdfspZ32QQfbfmtZ1QQfromZR2QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQga10244Z10425QQgcsZ2422QQpfidZ3600QQpfmodeZ1QQsabfmtsZ2QQsacatZQ2d100QQsascsZ2QQsbrbinZt
there are a few cheaper - Parkers of Bolton seem to fit the bill too.Dave
-
salmon said:
Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?So you don't intend using panniers?
Halfords do stock a rack like you describe; I have a receipt here which
says:132837 HAL R/R STEEL PAN RACK Eur 24.99
I think they are about £stg 18.
Maybe someone can help and say if the first code is a product code that
you could use to ask them to order one for you. You may need to be very
assertive and get to the top manager in the shop and bully them.If you do manage to find one that looks like it's been lying around a
while, check carefully that all the parts are present; I had the
experience of attempting to buy one in another branch; it was clearly
missing one of the 'bracket's (for want of a better term) that bolts to
the frame underneath the seat --- and God knows what else. Incidentally,
thinking that I could easily construct a replacement part, I asked the
droid 'what price?' 10% off was the best offer --- it was a Saturday,
and I would have to wait until Monday to speak to 'the manager'.I bought another rack from Wiggle (approx £14) but it does not have the
sprung holder thingummygig --- which, I agree with you, is worth having;
bungy cords may be a good supplement, but not replacement.Best regards,
Jon C.
-
salmon said:
Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?ProdID=5360027965
and a bungee, or
www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?ProdID=5360025256You may want to check to see if Chain Reation has them cheaper.
-
salmon said:
Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?What about a shopping basket to go onto the handlebars? These are cheap,
easily detachable, you can carry the dog in it [!], are handy for actually
going to the shops and picking up your fish and chips etc. and don't need
strapping down with bungees. There are drawbacks (finding enough room up
front and not interfering with other things) so try fitting on your bike
before you buy.A springy clip is a waste of time as it doesn't really secure the load.
Use a bungee instead. Importantly make sure that there is some lateral
restraint to the load. In the diagram below the outer line represents a
bungee and the stars the wires of the rack. There are other ways of
finishing off the hooky ends but you get the idea.RIGHT WRONG
_______________ _______________
/ LOAD_LOAD \ / LOAD_LOAD \
|LOAD_LOAD_LOAD_| / LOAD_LOAD_LOAD_ \
*\ * * * /* |* * * * *|
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
U U U UDon't be tempted by something that looks like a bike rack and might
superficially appear to be capable of holding a load. They need to be
really tough and well attached to survive the usual bumps of cycling
because there is precious little suspension.--
Peter Fox
Beer, dancing, cycling and lots more at www.eminent.demon.co.uk -
"Peter Fox" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
salmon said:
Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?What about a shopping basket to go onto the handlebars? These are cheap,
easily detachable, you can carry the dog in it [!], are handy for actually
going to the shops and picking up your fish and chips etc. and don't need
strapping down with bungees. There are drawbacks (finding enough room up
front and not interfering with other things) so try fitting on your bike
before you buy.A springy clip is a waste of time as it doesn't really secure the load.
Use a bungee instead. Importantly make sure that there is some lateral
restraint to the load. In the diagram below the outer line represents a
bungee and the stars the wires of the rack. There are other ways of
finishing off the hooky ends but you get the idea.RIGHT WRONG
_______________ _______________
/ LOAD_LOAD \ / LOAD_LOAD \
|LOAD_LOAD_LOAD_| / LOAD_LOAD_LOAD_ \
*\ * * * /* |* * * * *|
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
U U U UWhy do you take the hooks to the bottom of the pannier frame ?
I wrap the bungee up around the load at the top and then underneath the
frame - the asterisks on your diagram - as many times as is necessary
depending on the dimensions of the load. I normally attach the hooks
either to the uprights on the rack or the horizontal frame if I can
squeeze them under the load.Using your method, I can't quite see how you can obtain the correct
tension on the bungees, taking into account the fact that you'll be
securing loads of different heightsmichael adams
Quoted message said:
Don't be tempted by something that looks like a bike rack and might
superficially appear to be capable of holding a load. They need to be
really tough and well attached to survive the usual bumps of cycling
because there is precious little suspension.--
Peter Fox
Beer, dancing, cycling and lots more at www.eminent.demon.co.uk -
michael adams said:
"Peter Fox" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
salmon said:
Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?
What about a shopping basket to go onto the handlebars? These are cheap,
easily detachable, you can carry the dog in it [!], are handy for actually
going to the shops and picking up your fish and chips etc. and don't need
strapping down with bungees. There are drawbacks (finding enough room up
front and not interfering with other things) so try fitting on your bike
before you buy.A springy clip is a waste of time as it doesn't really secure the load.
Use a bungee instead. Importantly make sure that there is some lateral
restraint to the load. In the diagram below the outer line represents a
bungee and the stars the wires of the rack. There are other ways of
finishing off the hooky ends but you get the idea.RIGHT WRONG
_______________ _______________
/ LOAD_LOAD \ / LOAD_LOAD \
|LOAD_LOAD_LOAD_| / LOAD_LOAD_LOAD_ \
*\ * * * /* |* * * * *|
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
U U U UWhy do you take the hooks to the bottom of the pannier frame ?
There's no problem doing it your way...
....now draw it using ASCII art 🙂Quoted message said:
I wrap the bungee up around the load at the top and then underneath the
frame - the asterisks on your diagram - as many times as is necessary
depending on the dimensions of the load. I normally attach the hooks
either to the uprights on the rack or the horizontal frame if I can
squeeze them under the load.Using your method, I can't quite see how you can obtain the correct
tension on the bungees, taking into account the fact that you'll be
securing loads of different heights
Seems to work OK for me. One handy thing is that you can often leave the
bungee attached and in-situ and 'looking after itself' rather than faff
around with unwinding and winding. Just lift u to slide whatever it is
underneath and off you go.--
Peter Fox
Beer, dancing, cycling and lots more at www.eminent.demon.co.uk -
"Peter Fox" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
michael adams said:
"Peter Fox" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...Quoted message said:
salmon wrote:
> Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
> just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
> far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
> the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
> lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
> the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
> down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
> sticking out the back. Any ideas please?
What about a shopping basket to go onto the handlebars? These are cheap,
easily detachable, you can carry the dog in it [!], are handy for actually
going to the shops and picking up your fish and chips etc. and don't need
strapping down with bungees. There are drawbacks (finding enough room up
front and not interfering with other things) so try fitting on your bike
before you buy.A springy clip is a waste of time as it doesn't really secure the load.
Use a bungee instead. Importantly make sure that there is some lateral
restraint to the load. In the diagram below the outer line represents a
bungee and the stars the wires of the rack. There are other ways of
finishing off the hooky ends but you get the idea.RIGHT WRONG
_______________ _______________
/ LOAD_LOAD \ / LOAD_LOAD \
|LOAD_LOAD_LOAD_| / LOAD_LOAD_LOAD_ \
*\ * * * /* |* * * * *|
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
U U U UWhy do you take the hooks to the bottom of the pannier frame ?
There's no problem doing it your way...
...now draw it using ASCII art 🙂Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I wrap the bungee up around the load at the top and then underneath the
frame - the asterisks on your diagram - as many times as is necessary
depending on the dimensions of the load. I normally attach the hooks
either to the uprights on the rack or the horizontal frame if I can
squeeze them under the load.Using your method, I can't quite see how you can obtain the correct
tension on the bungees, taking into account the fact that you'll be
securing loads of different heightsQuoted message said:
Seems to work OK for me. One handy thing is that you can often leave the
bungee attached and in-situ and 'looking after itself' rather than faff
around with unwinding and winding. Just lift u to slide whatever it is
underneath and off you go.Fair enough. But if the bungees were to be taught enough for me to be confident
that the stuff couldn't simply slide off the rack, they'd also need to be
taught enough for it to hurt like hell if they snapped down on a stray
finger\nail that got in the way.
I only use bungees as a last resort for stuff which won't fit in the
bags in any case, long lengths of woods oversize stuff etc. Maybe
that's the difference.michael adams
....
Quoted message said:
--
Peter Fox
Beer, dancing, cycling and lots more at www.eminent.demon.co.uk -
michael adams said:
Fair enough. But if the bungees were to be taught enough for me to be confident
that the stuff couldn't simply slide off the rack, they'd also need to be
taught enough for it to hurt like hell if they snapped down on a stray
finger\nail that got in the way.
I only use bungees as a last resort for stuff which won't fit in the
bags in any case, long lengths of woods oversize stuff etc. Maybe
that's the difference.
Obviously, like you say, the best thing is to have something in a bag. The
worry you have about things sliding/skewing off is precisely the reason
for using a modicum of 'stop it flying off' pressure but be certain about
the 'no sliding about' control. Hence the arrangement. I once had to
carry a car battery which was _absolutly_ top whack weight and put some
layer of bubblewrap underneath it (a) to be a bump shock absorber [which
worked!] and (b) to provide some anti-slide grip.Just adding more and more 'top pressure' with stronger tiedowns is a waste
of time. Strapping down to the hub as per my original drawing is also poor
practice if your load extends beyond the width of the rack. The worst
thing to try to carry must be a briefcase - a plastic one having extra
slipperiness 🙁 [Thinking about it I'd put an old tee shirt etc. between
case and rack and make sure the case was well secured fore and aft.]--
Peter Fox
Beer, dancing, cycling and lots more at www.eminent.demon.co.uk -
In article <84c497a4-c2ef-4bc3-960f-
[email hidden]>, salmon
[email hidden] says...Quoted message said:
Looking to buy a pannier rack, been to Halfords many times and they
just don't seem to get them in. They have Top Peak range but that is
far too sophisticated for my purpose. I just want the wire type with
the sprung Holder. I only neeed it to carry a really thick wire bike
lock and occasionally a box with a reflector on the back, similar to
the ones I used to see as a kid, an old boy who was just tootling
down to his allotment with a box bungied to his rack with onion leaves
sticking out the back. Any ideas please?
Something like this?http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330217001260
-
Many thanks for the suggestions so far. I thought this was going to
be an easy one, should have known. Why is there so much bloody choice.
Nothings easy any more is it? I thought going back to a simple life
with a simple mode of transport was going to be a doddle. Now do I
want one with dog legs, black, silver, spring-clip or not, built-in
mudguard, lightweight, light brackets etc etc? I obviously need to do
a bit more homework but you have given me something to think about so
far. Thanks. -
In article <b03189fd-56ed-48b3-8d4e-4e5a5ab05a35
@o77g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, salmon
[email hidden] says...Quoted message said:
Many thanks for the suggestions so far. I thought this was going to
be an easy one, should have known. Why is there so much bloody choice.
Nothings easy any more is it? I thought going back to a simple life
with a simple mode of transport was going to be a doddle. Now do I
want one with dog legs,Only if you're actually going to be using it with panniers.
Quoted message said:
black, silver,
What colour are your mudguards/seatpin/chainset etc?
Quoted message said:
spring-clip or not,
Bungees are generally more secure, but a spring clip can be much more
convenient and will also hold things like a cabbage that would be
awkward with bungees.Quoted message said:
built-in mudguard,
Do you mean the splashguard panel found in the middle of many racks?
Traditional full-length mudguards are the only sort that provide much
protection.Quoted message said:
lightweight,
Alloy will resist corrosion better than steel (although good quality
chrome can last pretty well) and is generally stiffer than skinny steel
wire racks. Tubular CrMo steel is generally the stiffest and strongest,
but not cheap for decent quality.Quoted message said:
light brackets etc etc?
A light bracket is useful (as long as you get one that fits your light,
or you can get one to fit the rack) because stuff on top of the rack can
obscure a seatpost mounted light, and panniers can obscure a seatstay
mounted light. If you already have a mudguard mounted light you can
still use the bracket on the rack to fit a big reflector, or a
supplementary light. -
michael adams said:
Why do you take the hooks to the bottom of the pannier frame ?
I wrap the bungee up around the load at the top and then underneath the
frame - the asterisks on your diagram - as many times as is necessary
depending on the dimensions of the load. I normally attach the hooks
either to the uprights on the rack or the horizontal frame if I can
squeeze them under the load.Using your method, I can't quite see how you can obtain the correct
tension on the bungees, taking into account the fact that you'll be
securing loads of different heightshave a look at a Dutch bungie: they attach at the wheel axle and have
multiple straps over the top (3 on the one Roos uses).Different height loads are accounted for by elastic stretch. They are
very widely used in the Land Of bikes (TM) 'cause they work remarkably
well, and being permanently attached don't fall off or get swiped so easily.I've not seen them for sale anywhere in the UK. Shame...
Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ -
Rob Morley said:
In article <b03189fd-56ed-48b3-8d4e-4e5a5ab05a35
@o77g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, salmon
[email hidden] says...Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
black, silver,
What colour are your mudguards/seatpin/chainset etc?
Also bear in mind that black turns silver over time as the paint/coating
comes away.Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
spring-clip or not,
Bungees are generally more secure, but a spring clip can be much more
convenient and will also hold things like a cabbage that would be
awkward with bungees.Be awkward with a spring clip too. A Dutch-style 3 loop bungee would
take a cabbage more trustily than a spring clip IMHO. I used to have a
rack with a spring clip: stopped using it after a while because things
would come out of it too often. I'd never buy another.Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
built-in mudguard,
Do you mean the splashguard panel found in the middle of many racks?
Traditional full-length mudguards are the only sort that provide much
protection.Wot 'e sez. Helps if they have a mudflap too.
Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ -
Peter Clinch said:
Different height loads are accounted for by elastic stretch. They are
very widely used in the Land Of bikes (TM) 'cause they work remarkably
well, and being permanently attached don't fall off or get swiped so easily.Though some people go to amazing lengths... I once came out of the
station, took my bike out of the rack and noticed it felt a bit wobbly.
Closer inspection revealed that someone had unscrewed the nuts on the
rear axel (no quick release), taken off my new purple bugee, and put the
nuts back on but not really tightened them.Roos
-
In article <[email hidden]>, Peter Clinch
[email hidden] says...Quoted message said:
Rob Morley wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Bungees are generally more secure, but a spring clip can be much more
convenient and will also hold things like a cabbage that would be
awkward with bungees.Be awkward with a spring clip too. A Dutch-style 3 loop bungee would
take a cabbage more trustily than a spring clip IMHO.A small elastic cargo net would work better.
Quoted message said:
I used to have a
rack with a spring clip: stopped using it after a while because things
would come out of it too often. I'd never buy another.
Neither would I, but that's because the racks that have them generally
aren't up to much. ISTR a quality rack manufacturer used to offer a
sprung arm as an accessory for their proper racks, which was quite good. -
In message <[email hidden]>, Rob Morley
<[email hidden]> writesQuoted message said:
In article <[email hidden]>, Peter Clinch
[email hidden] says...Quoted message said:
Rob Morley wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Bungees are generally more secure, but a spring clip can be much more
convenient and will also hold things like a cabbage that would be
awkward with bungees.Be awkward with a spring clip too. A Dutch-style 3 loop bungee would
take a cabbage more trustily than a spring clip IMHO.A small elastic cargo net would work better.
And when was the last time anyone here bungeed (or otherwise) a cabbage
to their rack ? :-)
--
Chris French -
Rob Morley said:
A small elastic cargo net would work better.
Quoted message said:
Like this:
http://www.deltacycle.com/product.php?g=26
Wiggle used to do them
--
Andy MorrisAndyAtjinkasDotfreeserve.co.uk
--
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