My bike is 6 years old now with the same cables it came with (which are houses inside of black tubing). I have been having some delayed shifting and reluctant shifting lately, so maybe I should spring for some new cables. I need some advice as to which ones. I haven't gotten a Performance or a Bike Nashbar catalog in quite a time now. Usually, I compare their offerings. I might just wind up going to the LBS, but I would like to know what to look for. I am going to attempt the job myself. Should I get stainless steel or some kind of coated cables or what? Any advice?
My bike is 6 years old now with the same cables it came with (which are houses inside of black tubing). I have been having some delayed shifting and reluctant shifting lately, so maybe I should spring for some new cables. I need some advice as to which ones. I haven't gotten a Performance or a Bike Nashbar catalog in quite a time now. Usually, I compare their offerings. I might just wind up going to the LBS, but I would like to know what to look for. I am going to attempt the job myself. Should I get stainless steel or some kind of coated cables or what? Any advice?
Pat in TX
I use Stainless here in Nebraska on my Tadpole. Some of the cables are very low to the ground and occasionally pick up water and sediment from the snowmelt. I haven't had any problems with them sticking or rusting out quickly.
My bike is 6 years old now with the same cables it came with (which are houses inside of black tubing). I have been having some delayed shifting and reluctant shifting lately, so maybe I should spring for some new cables. I need some advice as to which ones. I haven't gotten a Performance or a Bike Nashbar catalog in quite a time now. Usually, I compare their offerings. I might just wind up going to the LBS, but I would like to know what to look for. I am going to attempt the job myself. Should I get stainless steel or some kind of coated cables or what? Any advice?
Pat in TX
Stainless cables and high-quality lined housing. Shimano works fine, although I really like the Jagwire pre-cut housings.
My bike is 6 years old now with the same cables it came with (which are houses inside of black tubing). I have been having some delayed shifting and reluctant shifting lately, so maybe I should spring for some new cables. I need some advice as to which ones. I haven't gotten a Performance or a Bike Nashbar catalog in quite a time now. Usually, I compare their offerings. I might just wind up going to the LBS, but I would like to know what to look for. I am going to attempt the job myself. Should I get stainless steel or some kind of coated cables or what? Any advice?
Pat in TX
A bit repetitive to Mike Jacuubowsky's post but:
1. See whether it is possible to reduce the amount of cable housing used on you bike. The less there is, the less places there are for rust/crud to build up and impede cable movement.
2. Whether reduced or not, replace all cable housing when you replace your cables. You might be surprised when you pull your cables out of the housing how much rust/crud is in there, and simply putting new cables into old housing doesn't deal with the majority of the problem.
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 20:51:47 -0700, Larry Farrell <[email hidden]>
Quoted message said:
Pat said:
My bike is 6 years old now with the same cables it came with (which are houses inside of black tubing). I have been having some delayed shifting and reluctant shifting lately, so maybe I should spring for some new cables. I need some advice as to which ones. I haven't gotten a Performance or a Bike Nashbar catalog in quite a time now. Usually, I compare their offerings. I might just wind up going to the LBS, but I would like to know what to look for. I am going to attempt the job myself. Should I get stainless steel or some kind of coated cables or what? Any advice?
Pat in TX
A bit repetitive to Mike Jacuubowsky's post but:
1. See whether it is possible to reduce the amount of cable housing used on you bike. The less there is, the less places there are for rust/crud to build up and impede cable movement.
2. Whether reduced or not, replace all cable housing when you replace your cables. You might be surprised when you pull your cables out of the housing how much rust/crud is in there, and simply putting new cables into old housing doesn't deal with the majority of the problem.
I would agree with replacing the housing as well. It does get quite a lot of crud built up. You will notice the cable will run a lot better if you do that.
I haven't had a problem with my cables working. I have Stainless steel cables. ONLY problem I have had was a little water buildup. Then, when it has been single digit temps, the cables freeze. Seem to have solved that problem by placing a heavy lube into the housing to keep water out. Seems to have worked so far.
1. See whether it is possible to reduce the amount of cable housing used on you bike. The less there is, the less places there are for rust/crud to build up and impede cable movement.
Not sure what you mean by that, but one place you might want to use a slightly _longer_ housing is the small section that goes from the chainstay stop to the rear derailleur.
My bike is 6 years old now with the same cables it came with (which are houses inside of black tubing). I have been having some delayed shifting and reluctant shifting lately, so maybe I should spring for some new cables. I need some advice as to which ones. I haven't gotten a Performance or a Bike Nashbar catalog in quite a time now. Usually, I compare their offerings. I might just wind up going to the LBS, but I would like to know what to look for. I am going to attempt the job myself. Should I get stainless steel or some kind of coated cables or what? Any advice?
You can buy Shimano replacement kits that include all the brake/shift cables and housings, but I prefer to use 5mm shift cable housings and and metal ferrules rather than the 4mm Shimano housings with plastic ferrules.
I buy shift housing in 25 ft lengths, and cut it as required.
Inner cables should be replaced too as the wires can start to break up inside the shift lever (which can lead to big problems).
Make sure you don't use shift housings on brakes and vice versa.
1. See whether it is possible to reduce the amount of cable housing used on you bike. The less there is, the less places there are for rust/crud to build up and impede cable movement.
Not sure what you mean by that, but one place you might want to use a slightly _longer_ housing is the small section that goes from the chainstay stop to the rear derailleur.
Art Harris
Some bikes, admittedly usually the cheaper ones, have cable housing running the full length from the brake handle/shifter to the brake/dérailleur. In such cases, it usually isn't possible to reduce the cable housing run simply because there aren't any stops anywhere to insert a housing end and leave bare cable to the beginning of the next short housing run. However, if stops are available, not using full housing runs reduces the area where crud/rust can accumulate inside the housing.
My bike is 6 years old now with the same cables it came with (which are houses inside of black tubing). I have been having some delayed shifting and reluctant shifting lately, so maybe I should spring for some new cables. I need some advice as to which ones. I haven't gotten a Performance or a Bike Nashbar catalog in quite a time now. Usually, I compare their offerings. I might just wind up going to the LBS, but I would like to know what to look for. I am going to attempt the job myself. Should I get stainless steel or some kind of coated cables or what? Any advice?
Quoted message said:
Pat in TX
A bit repetitive to Mike Jacuubowsky's post but:
1. See whether it is possible to reduce the amount of cable housing used on you bike. The less there is, the less places there are for rust/crud to build up and impede cable movement.
2. Whether reduced or not, replace all cable housing when you replace your cables. You might be surprised when you pull your cables out of the housing how much rust/crud is in there, and simply putting new cables into old housing doesn't deal with the majority of the problem.
Unless you have loops and coils of cable housing wrapped around your bike, trying to reduce it isn't worth the effort. Not being able to raise or turn your bars because you accidentally cut the cables too short is a hefty price to pay for the tiny improvement in shifting. Especially if you're using high quality cables, and buying another set is going to cost a lot. Also, if shortening the length of a housing also decreases the bend radius it's going to make shifting worse.
