About six weeks ago, I noticed my chain was skipping and so I replaced it. However, as a result the chain skip got worse - yes, I then learnt that I should have changed the cassette too, which I did.
So, problem solved...until now where the same problem has recurred. Seeing as I only ride about 50 miles a week, it's too soon for chain stretch to develop.
I then thought that the problem might be because of my large chain ring being overworn and that it neeeded to be changed. However, the problem still seems to occur on the middle chainring too, which I use far less.
So, I think the problem could simply be that the chain is too long and so I should remove a link.
About six weeks ago, I noticed my chain was skipping and so I replaced it. However, as a result the chain skip got worse - yes, I then learnt that I should have changed the cassette too, which I did.
So, problem solved...until now where the same problem has recurred. Seeing as I only ride about 50 miles a week, it's too soon for chain stretch to settle in already.
I then thought that the problem might be because of my large chain ring being overworn and that it neeeded to be changed. However, the problem still seems to occur on the middle chainring too, which I use far less.
Even thouh you use it less, it is possible that it's equally worn since it's smaller.
Quoted message said:
So, I think the problem could simply be that the chain is too long and so I should remove a link.
Have the chain as short as reasonably possible to work with the largest chainring and largest rear sprocket combination (even if you normally avoid that combo).
On Feb 5, 10:18 pm, dannyfrankszzz <dannyfrankszzz.34b...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com said:
So, I think the problem could simply be that the chain is too long and so I should remove a link.
Your deraileur arm should sort that out without you having to fiddle with individual links, provided that the chain isn't way too long in the first place.
Check that on the combinations of *smallest* gear rings the deraileur arm isn't pulling back so far that the chain is touching itself as it threads through the gubbins.
So, problem solved...until now where the same problem has recurred. Seeing as I only ride about 50 miles a week, it's too soon for chain stretch to settle in already.
As well as wot the others said, lubing a dirty chain is a great way to wear 'em out *really* fast (tho I don't think it would wear fast enough to skip in 300 miles). Running a new chain on worn sprockets/chainrings will also wear it out faster. Also, the gears could need adjusting (or the cables could be in need of replacement).
On 5 Feb, 22:18, dannyfrankszzz <dannyfrankszzz.34b...@no-
mx.forums.cyclingforums.com said:
About six weeks ago, I noticed my chain was skipping and so I replaced it. However, as a result the chain skip got worse - yes, I then learnt that I should have changed the cassette too, which I did.
So, problem solved...until now where the same problem has recurred. Seeing as I only ride about 50 miles a week, it's too soon for chain stretch to settle in already.
I then thought that the problem might be because of my large chain ring being overworn and that it neeeded to be changed. However, the problem still seems to occur on the middle chainring too, which I use far less.
So, I think the problem could simply be that the chain is too long and so I should remove a link.
Does that sound right?
-- dannyfrankszzz
Long shot, but if you are using a Wippermann Connex 808 chain with a power link, then I've found that the chain will skip on the smallest ring if the power link is the 'wrong' way around..... I will be buying a SRAM chain next time 🙁
On 6 Feb, 10:28, Mark T <pleasegivegenerously@warmail*turn_up_the_heat_to_reply*.com.invalid>
Quoted message said:
As well as wot the others said, lubing a dirty chain is a great way to wear 'em out *really* fast (tho I don't think it would wear fast enough to skip in 300 miles). Running a new chain on worn sprockets/chainrings will also wear it out faster. Also, the gears could need adjusting (or the cables could be in need of replacement).
The chain and chainrings of my 16-year-old MTB were already *really* worn out a year ago, but I figured as they'd all need replacing anyway, I might as well get as much use out of them as I could. 3,000 miles later it's still going strong and not a hint of chain skip unless I really abuse it by pedalling hard while changing gear. I've got a new bike coming next week, so no doubt it'll finally break within the next day or two!
Long shot, but if you are using a Wippermann Connex 808 chain with a power link, then I've found that the chain will skip on the smallest ring if the power link is the 'wrong' way around.....
I think the instructions in the box mention this installation detail :-)
Quoted message said:
I will be buying a SRAM chain next time 🙁
Fine for 7/8/9 speed. But at 10 speed, Connex are re-usable links, SRAM are one-shot only.
Long shot, but if you are using a Wippermann Connex 808 chain with a power link, then I've found that the chain will skip on the smallest ring if the power link is the 'wrong' way around.....
I think the instructions in the box mention this installation detail :-)
Quoted message said:
I will be buying a SRAM chain next time 🙁
Fine for 7/8/9 speed. But at 10 speed, Connex are re-usable links, SRAM are one-shot only.
Do 7/8/9 speed SRAM power links have a wrong way round or is this a 10 speed or Connex thing?
Its a Connex thing. The two halves of the link are identical. But, the link side-plate is curved, and one needs to assemble the link so the curve rides the correct way around a sprocket. Its not complicated !
So, on 7,8,9, SRAM is a tad simpler. But its not hard to spot "up" and "down" on a Connex.
If you have a 10-speed bike, Connex is the only reusable option.
squeaker wrote: > Long shot, but if you are using a Wippermann Connex 808 chain with > a power link, then I've found that the chain will skip on the > smallest ring if the power link is the 'wrong' way around.....
I think the instructions in the box mention this installation detail :-)
> I will be buying a SRAM chain next time 🙁
Fine for 7/8/9 speed. But at 10 speed, Connex are re-usable links, SRAM are one-shot only.
Do 7/8/9 speed SRAM power links have a wrong way round or is this a 10 speed or Connex thing?
Its a Connex thing. The two halves of the link are identical. But, the link side-plate is curved, and one needs to assemble the link so the curve rides the correct way around a sprocket. Its not complicated ! So, on 7,8,9, SRAM is a tad simpler. But its not hard to spot "up" and "down" on a Connex.
If you have a 10-speed bike, Connex is the only reusable option.
Connex link orientation only matters for 11 and 12t sprockets, not 13t+.
There are other resuable options for 10-speed, including KMC and Mavic.
one of the best tools I have bought is a chain wear gauge. My advice - get (or borrow) a gauge, measure your 'new' chain and that way you can rule out (or in) chain stretch.
I heard a tip second-hand from a bike shop mechanic the other day. For a quick check of chain/sprocket wear, face the chainrings and put the pedal at 9:00. Grab the chain at 3:00 and pull towards the front of the bike. If there's movement of the chain at 12:00 and 6:00 then it's worn.
