BB's Plastic Cup: Squeek-Prone?

On Sat, 24 Nov 2007 14:06:18 -0500, "(PeteCresswell)" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

In yet another attempt to mitigate the creakfest that's going on
in my BB, I'm going to try setting the components in blue
LocTite instead of grease and/or plumber's tape.

The cup side, however, is plastic.

Intuition says "Loctite + Plastic = Bad".

It also says that plastic doesn't creak.

So my bias is to apply LocTite only on the cartridge threads.

Can I safely assume that the plastic side is not part of the
creaking problem?

Dear Pete,

Dunno about LocTite being bad for plastic.

But any hard surfaces that touch and move under pressure can creak.

When you try to raid the refrigerator late at night across an old
kitchen floor, both the wood and the linoleum can betray you.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

I have loctited plastics without disaster but one side ferrous. I
have also initiated destructive reactions, not with loctite, where the
plastics disappear into an absolving froth.
maybe you could try teflon tape from the local ACE or TV.
carefully applied, TT will fill a too wide gap
carefully applied, if there's a problem like there's no too wide gap
then the installation shuld fail
could take several tries to learn the technique as it's not squirt and
thread. tape is solid not liquid.

Per datakoll:

Quoted message said:

you could try teflon tape from the local ACE or TV.
carefully applied, TT will fill a too wide gap
carefully applied, if there's a problem like there's no too wide gap
then the installation shuld fail
could take several tries to learn the technique as it's not squirt and
thread. tape is solid not liquid.

Been through several applications if Teflon tape. Sometimes it
seems to work for the first few miles, but the creakfest always
returns.

Also, am on my third replacement BB shell (it's a Maverick sus
and the BB shell is a separate module). They are *all* poorly
tapped, with blunt threads and patches of no thread at all. I've
got the fourth replacement on my shelf as I write this -
untouched bco the threading.

I don't *know* that the threading is the issue, but your "too
wide gap" statement seems to support my suspicion that it is.
OTOH, by the time the first one failed totally, it had a crack in
it. I don't see any cracks in the one that's on there now, but
who knows?

Maverick re-engineered the module a year or two ago - moving from
magnesium to alu. I'm just trying to put off the (inevitable?)
outlay of almost two hundred bucks for one of the new ones.
--
PeteCresswell

don't buy a plastic cup. loctite has compounds for slip fits and
threads. try a slip fit compound.
if lock is used on plastic, there's a chance it won't unthread then be
reuseable. but mostly, just guessing, what lock is saying is lock
works on ferrous metals not al-al or plastics. lock sez that too avoid
liability.
at this point a visit to the LBS having a machine shop and various
taps...

"(PeteCresswell)" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In yet another attempt to mitigate the creakfest that's going on
in my BB, I'm going to try setting the components in blue
LocTite instead of grease and/or plumber's tape.

The cup side, however, is plastic.

Intuition says "Loctite + Plastic = Bad".

Quoted message said:

PeteCresswell

I don't know exactly, but if you do try the loctite, you might want to try
the purple 222 version instead of the blue.

I've never used the purple yet, but just ordered a bottle yesterday. It was
very difficult to find, as the blue and red are much more common.

The purple is supposed to be low-strength and made largely for set-screws
that require changes.

The instructions on my Campy crank are calling for purple 222 loctite, so
that's what I'm going to use, but of course, my external cups aren't
plastic.

I couldn't find this stuff in the bike catelogs, but did finally find some
on a gun site called "midway"

Jeff

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

Jeff said:

"(PeteCresswell)" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

In yet another attempt to mitigate the creakfest that's going on
in my BB, I'm going to try setting the components in blue
LocTite instead of grease and/or plumber's tape.

Quoted message said:

The cup side, however, is plastic.

Quoted message said:

Intuition says "Loctite + Plastic = Bad".
PeteCresswell

I don't know exactly, but if you do try the loctite, you might want to try
the purple 222 version instead of the blue.

I've never used the purple yet, but just ordered a bottle yesterday. It was
very difficult to find, as the blue and red are much more common.

The purple is supposed to be low-strength and made largely for set-screws
that require changes.

The instructions on my Campy crank are calling for purple 222 loctite, so
that's what I'm going to use, but of course, my external cups aren't
plastic.

I couldn't find this stuff in the bike catelogs, but did finally find some
on a gun site called "midway"

Jeff

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

try NAPA or Grainger's for the full loctite range.
most BB squeking is from the spindle/crankarm joint, try greasing it.

Per Jeff:

Quoted message said:

The purple is supposed to be low-strength and made largely for set-screws
that require changes.

Too late. I took the plunge with Blue - my fallback position
being to sacrifice the plastic cup if/when disassembly requires
enough heat to toast it.

Running a tap though each side is tempting, but my impression is
that the castings are malformed. i.e. there's too much diameter
in some areas. Otherwise, how could there be a sort of bubble of
flat threads surrounded by good threads?
--
PeteCresswell

In article
<[email hidden]>,

(PeteCresswell) said:

In yet another attempt to mitigate the creakfest that's going on
in my BB, I'm going to try setting the components in blue
LocTite instead of grease and/or plumber's tape.

The cup side, however, is plastic.

Intuition says "Loctite + Plastic = Bad".

It also says that plastic doesn't creak.

So my bias is to apply LocTite only on the cartridge threads.

Can I safely assume that the plastic side is not part of the
creaking problem?

Odd clicks and creaks are transmitted around the
frame speedily and with fidelity.

Have you determined with metaphysical certitude
that the creak is in the bottom bracket?

--
Michael Press

(PeteCresswell) said:

Per Jeff:

Quoted message said:

The purple is supposed to be low-strength and made largely for set-screws
that require changes.

Too late. I took the plunge with Blue - my fallback position
being to sacrifice the plastic cup if/when disassembly requires
enough heat to toast it.

Running a tap though each side is tempting, but my impression is
that the castings are malformed. i.e. there's too much diameter
in some areas. Otherwise, how could there be a sort of bubble of
flat threads surrounded by good threads?

Threading tool not square to the hole.

Unless you have one of those new-fangled single-use BB axle sets,
re-threading to Italian could be much (fsvo much) less expensive.

Per Michael Press:

Quoted message said:

Have you determined with metaphysical certitude
that the creak is in the bottom bracket?

Very high confidence level.

Fooling around with it makes the sound go away for a few miles -
replicable across multiple trials.

I suppose it *could* be the crank on the drive side that I
remove/replace each time I fool around with the BB... but I doubt
it very much considering the condition of the BB threads and the
fact that the first one gave identical symptoms before failing
completely (BB cracked, threads totally torn out).

We'll soon see if the LocTite is a fix or I'm gonna spring for
the re-engineered version.
--
PeteCresswell