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Keep losing chain

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UK and Europe
Published
21 November 2007
Last activity
22 November 2007
Original author
PhilD
Posts
14
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  1. Dear all,

    I regularly ride four different cycles (not all at once, before anyone
    suggests it!): two with deraileur gears and two with hub gears. Three
    cycles are fine, the fourth keeps losing the chain. The problem bike
    is a Giant Expression N7, which for those not familiar has hub gears,
    so no chain flapping about, so no reason for the chain to fall off.

    What's going on?

    I only lose the chain by the wheel, not by the pedals. It is possible
    that hitting a bump in the road triggers an unwanted jump, though that
    may be coincidental. Nothing looks broken or worn (the bike is just
    over 1). The jumping is intermittent (there was no problem last
    Saturdey, but I lost the chain yesterday, for example), and only
    started about 4 months ago.

    Do any of you have any suggestions as to what to consider to right
    this wrong, please?

    Thanks,

    PhilD

    --
    <><

  2. PhilD said the following on 21/11/2007 10:13:

    Quoted message said:

    Do any of you have any suggestions as to what to consider to right
    this wrong, please?

    It sounds to me like it isn't tensioned properly.

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  3. PhilD said:

    cycles are fine, the fourth keeps losing the chain. The problem bike
    is a Giant Expression N7, which for those not familiar has hub gears,
    so no chain flapping about, so no reason for the chain to fall off.

    Just because you're not derailing to change gear doesn't mean "no
    excuse". Indeed, with no /automatic/ chain tensioning as you get with a
    spring loaded deraiieur/tensioner, possibly more of an excuse.

    Quoted message said:

    What's going on?

    I guess you may need to tension the chain. Not having an N7 myself I'm
    not sure how one would go about that, but the typical mechanisms are
    either horizontal rear dropouts, in which case loosen the back wheel and
    pull it back a little (or lose a link from the chain and take up the
    difference moving it forwards, if it's already as far back as it'll go),
    or an eccentric bottom bracket, in which case move it around so as to
    tighten the chain.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  4. "PhilD" <[email hidden]> a écrit:

    Quoted message said:

    The problem bike is a Giant Expression N7, which for those not
    familiar has hub gears, so no chain flapping about, so no reason
    for the chain to fall off.

    Quoted message said:

    What's going on?

    You probably just have a little too much slack in the chain. You can slide
    the hub back in the rear dropouts to take up slack. When you're done, check
    that you can turn the cranks backward freely (no tight spots).

    Another possibility is a poor chainline, which can lead to the chain
    climbing off the sprocket under load. If you feel the chain tightening
    before it jumps off, this is the likely cause.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

    James Thomson

  5. PhilD said:

    Dear all,

    I regularly ride four different cycles (not all at once, before anyone
    suggests it!): two with deraileur gears and two with hub gears. Three
    cycles are fine, the fourth keeps losing the chain. The problem bike
    is a Giant Expression N7, which for those not familiar has hub gears,
    so no chain flapping about, so no reason for the chain to fall off.

    What's going on?

    I only lose the chain by the wheel, not by the pedals. It is possible
    that hitting a bump in the road triggers an unwanted jump, though that
    may be coincidental. Nothing looks broken or worn (the bike is just
    over 1). The jumping is intermittent (there was no problem last
    Saturdey, but I lost the chain yesterday, for example), and only
    started about 4 months ago.

    Do any of you have any suggestions as to what to consider to right
    this wrong, please?

    Have a go at increasing chain tension if you can -- but don't have it quite
    as tight as possible. There should be some "give", otherwise you'll get
    excessive friction and wear within the chain. You'll be able to feel it
    when turning the cranks by hand if there is too much drag.

    ~PB

  6. Maybe the derailler's chain tensioner is gunged up and needs cleaning
    and lubing. It certainly afflicts my commuter from time to time.

    Jon

  7. Peter Clinch said:
    PhilD said:

    cycles are fine, the fourth keeps losing the chain. The problem bike
    is a Giant Expression N7, which for those not familiar has hub gears,
    so no chain flapping about, so no reason for the chain to fall off.

    Just because you're not derailing to change gear doesn't mean "no
    excuse". Indeed, with no /automatic/ chain tensioning as you get with a
    spring loaded deraiieur/tensioner, possibly more of an excuse.

    Quoted message said:

    What's going on?

    I guess you may need to tension the chain. Not having an N7 myself I'm
    not sure how one would go about that, but the typical mechanisms are
    either horizontal rear dropouts, in which case loosen the back wheel and
    pull it back a little (or lose a link from the chain and take up the
    difference moving it forwards, if it's already as far back as it'll go),
    or an eccentric bottom bracket, in which case move it around so as to
    tighten the chain.

    Thanks (and to others who gave the same suggestion). I will have a
    look at my spanners and see if there's one that will fit the wheel
    nuts!

    PhilD

    --
    <><

  8. In article <[email hidden]>, Jonathan Schneider
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:

    Maybe the derailler's chain tensioner is gunged up and needs cleaning
    and lubing. It certainly afflicts my commuter from time to time.


    With a hub gear?

  9. PhilD said:

    Thanks (and to others who gave the same suggestion). I will have a
    look at my spanners and see if there's one that will fit the wheel
    nuts!

    15mm usually the one, IIRC.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  10. In article <[email hidden]>, Peter Clinch
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:
    PhilD said:

    Thanks (and to others who gave the same suggestion). I will have a
    look at my spanners and see if there's one that will fit the wheel
    nuts!

    15mm usually the one, IIRC.


    Or the big adjustable one. :-)

  11. Rob Morley said the following on 21/11/2007 13:03:

    Quoted message said:

    Or the big adjustable one. :-)

    What, the one with the big, serrated curved jaws?

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  12. Paul Boyd said:

    Rob Morley said the following on 21/11/2007 13:03:

    Quoted message said:

    Or the big adjustable one. :-)

    What, the one with the big, serrated curved jaws?


    nope, the one with the wooden handle and the lump of iron at one end

    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  13. In article <[email hidden]>, Paul Boyd
    usenet.is.worse@plusnet says...

    Quoted message said:

    Rob Morley said the following on 21/11/2007 13:03:

    Quoted message said:

    Or the big adjustable one. :-)

    What, the one with the big, serrated curved jaws?


    No. :-)

  14. In article <[email hidden]>, M-gineering
    [email hidden] says...

    Quoted message said:
    Paul Boyd said:

    Rob Morley said the following on 21/11/2007 13:03:

    Quoted message said:

    Or the big adjustable one. :-)

    What, the one with the big, serrated curved jaws?


    nope, the one with the wooden handle and the lump of iron at one end


    That's just for removing cranks when the extractor thread is knackered.
    :-)

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