Removing stem bolt

In article <[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

As it's a cheap stem, I'm prepared to attack it with an angle grinder,
but I'm not sure this will help much - the stem is set low, so the
important bits are probably inside the head tube. FWIW this is on a
tandem.

Any ideas?

Drill the head off?

In article said:

As it's a cheap stem, I'm prepared to attack it with an angle grinder,
but I'm not sure this will help much - the stem is set low, so the
important bits are probably inside the head tube.

Have a look through http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-stem.html
and http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
While the latter is about seatposts, the general principle of getting
one tube that is stuck in another one out is the same.

Taking an angle grinder to it might make it easier to start drilling out
the bolt, and if all else fails will at least let you get the fork out
of the headtube to fit a new fork.

But before that, try turning it upside down and soaking with WD-40
or penetrating oil or Plus Gas from "below" as well.

Quoted message said:

Anybody know any tricks for removing the stem bolt? (In case I'm using
an ambiguous term, I mean the bolt that goes down into the stem that
lets you align/raise/lower/remove the stem.)

So far I've tried:

1) Allen key + soaking with WD40 (easy to give it a good soak as the
bolt is set deeply into the stem forming a well to hold the stuff).

2) My Armageddon technique for stuck bolts, screws, etc - carpenter's
brace with bit holder and appropriate bit. This allows far more
leverage than an allen key combined with downward pressure to avoid
cam out. I've never known it fail before - or rather, I've always
shifted the bolt or sheared it. Nothing doing on this stem bolt
though.

The previous owner was a gorilla who overtightened things, and also a
lift engineer, so may well have used thread lock. (No sign of rust, so
I'm assuming it's just overtight.)

As it's a cheap stem, I'm prepared to attack it with an angle grinder,
but I'm not sure this will help much - the stem is set low, so the
important bits are probably inside the head tube. FWIW this is on a
tandem.

Any ideas?

Rob

Until you've rounded out the hex or bent a decent hexkey, you haven't
tried hard enough. Slip a foot long tube over the key or get a 1/2"
drive allan key and give it some stick

--
/Marten

info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

Quoted message said:

1) Allen key + soaking with WD40

whatever it might be*), wd40 is a lousy lubricant or rust remover

*) it smells nice and doesn't stain my hands 😉
--
/Marten

info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

In article <[email hidden]>, M-gineering
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

1) Allen key + soaking with WD40

whatever it might be*), wd40 is a lousy lubricant or rust remover

*) it smells nice and doesn't stain my hands 😉

GT85 smells much nicer. :-)

Quoted message said:

Anybody know any tricks for removing the stem bolt? (In case I'm using
an ambiguous term, I mean the bolt that goes down into the stem that
lets you align/raise/lower/remove the stem.)

So far I've tried:

1) Allen key + soaking with WD40 (easy to give it a good soak as the
bolt is set deeply into the stem forming a well to hold the stuff).

2) My Armageddon technique for stuck bolts, screws, etc - carpenter's
brace with bit holder and appropriate bit. This allows far more
leverage than an allen key combined with downward pressure to avoid
cam out. I've never known it fail before - or rather, I've always
shifted the bolt or sheared it. Nothing doing on this stem bolt
though.

The previous owner was a gorilla who overtightened things, and also a
lift engineer, so may well have used thread lock. (No sign of rust, so
I'm assuming it's just overtight.)

As it's a cheap stem, I'm prepared to attack it with an angle grinder,
but I'm not sure this will help much - the stem is set low, so the
important bits are probably inside the head tube. FWIW this is on a
tandem.

Any ideas?

Rob

i would try to drill it from the bottom and remove the bolt if it is
accessible.
carlos
www.bikingthings.com
-ride longer, get fit, live better, be happier-

Rob Morley said:

Quoted message said:

whatever it might be*), wd40 is a lousy lubricant or rust remover

*) it smells nice and doesn't stain my hands 😉

GT85 smells much nicer. :-)

Makes me cough, so I can't use it. WD40 no problem.

No I don't /deliberately/ inhale it!

I can't be the only one who is senisitive to certain aerosol propellants
found in some DIY and household products. Why are the dodgy ones allowed?

~PB

M-gineering said:

whatever it might be*), wd40 is a lousy lubricant or rust remover

Works great for removing stickers and adhesive labels, though ...