Wide Hub for Nimbus 36er Frame?

I favour the narrower hubs because of the lower q-factor. I have not
noticed any flex in the wheel when using a Std Coker frame; but I am
fairly light (58kg), tend to ride in a fairly straight line, and don't
have brakes on my Coker. Having said that, I'm pretty sure I won't
notice any flex even if I had brakes mounted on the Coker. The frame
has a lot to do with the flex- I notice a lot of flex when using the
Aluminium 1st Generation Schlumpf frame on my Coker- it's almost
unrideable; yet I don't notice any flex at all with the Std Coker
frame. I'm pretty sure the Nimbus frame will be fairly stiff, so
unless you are heavy, you may find it's Ok with a narrow hub.

You can also narrow the Q-factor with straight cranks (ie the ones that
don't flare outwards) like the Bicycle Euros.

Ken

p/s I'm using a Std UDC hub, stainless spokes and Airfoil rim.

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so would it be feasible to bend the frame in to fit the standard wide
hub?

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Yes. There would be 2 bends on each frame side, one at the frame
somewhere above the bearing holder (even as far up as the top curve
area), going inward, and one at the bearing holder, going outward.
That will leave your bearing holders perfectly vertical while narrowing
the spacing.

You can do it visually, but you'd need a good jig and a good eyeball.
You don't even need to heat the frame (he says, having made these
corrections before).

But don't use anything that will bite into the material in order to
grip it, otherwise you risk obvious finishing issues.

Note how the wheel is centered in the frame before you begin, and make
darn sure the wheel looks the same after your bending exercise.

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I have the super wide hub, stainless spokes, airfoil rim, standard
frame, no brakes, and 127mm "Q" factor prowheel cranks. I experience no
"wobble" at all, and it's crazy fast when I want it to be. Smooth as
silk and very responsive. I [personally] see no advantage to a narrow
hub, unless you have "wobbling" tendencies.

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MuniAddict said:

I have the super wide hub...

really? cause you've said before that you only have the regular wide
hub...and the radial frame is only meant to fit the narrow hub, so even
the regular wide hub is a stretch.

and thanks for the replies, guys. would a fork aligning/bending tool be
of any use?

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The Radial is a tyre not a frame. The Nimbus is the frame.

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onebyone said:

The Radial is a tyre not a frame. The Nimbus is the frame.

...no the Radial is a frame. I believe its a little stretch to fit the
extra-wide hub...but that's what it comes with.

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onelesscar said:

really? cause you've said before that you only have the regular wide
hub...and the radial frame is only meant to fit the narrow hub, so even
the regular wide hub is a stretch.

and thanks for the replies, guys. would a fork aligning/bending tool be
of any use?

Hmm, I said that I have the *regular* wide hub? I don't remember saying
that but if I did i meant to say *super-wide". But no, if you buy a
*new* radial, it comes *standard* with the superwide hub. Now if you
have an *old* standard coker frame, then yeah, that's made to fit the
narrower hub. This new radial also has the 25.4mm seatpost, the same as
the nimbus frame.

http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=822

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dug up this thread because I am in the same situation

I punched some numbers regarding the flange spacing and flange heights.
I came up with needing spokes 4mm shorter if I use the UDC wide (as
opposed to super-wide) hub. It seemed to me that 4mm is enough that I
would definitely need to have the threads cut further down the spoke.

then I figured if I was going to have to modify the spokes anyways I
might as well get them cut for a 3X pattern instead of the 4X pattern
which I am not really a fan of. I punched more numbers and came up with
364mm spokes.

All my calculations assumed that 376mm (the size they sell at UDC) is
the ideal length to lace an airfoil with a 4X pattern on the super-wide
hub.

Ken, or anyone else with an Airfoil on a UDC wide hub: do you know if
your spokes were shortened or modified at all when your wheel was built
up?

And what did you guys use to bend the lower portions of the legs near
the bearing holder? Im thinking a vice with leather grips would work.

Thanks in advance for any advice

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saskatchewanian said:

dug up this thread because I am in the same situation

I punched some numbers regarding the flange spacing and flange heights.
I came up with needing spokes 4mm shorter if I use the UDC wide (as
opposed to super-wide) hub. It seemed to me that 4mm is enough that I
would definitely need to have the threads cut further down the spoke.

then I figured if I was going to have to modify the spokes anyways I
might as well get them cut for a 3X pattern instead of the 4X pattern
which I am not really a fan of. I punched more numbers and came up with
364mm spokes.

All my calculations assumed that 376mm (the size they sell at UDC) is
the ideal length to lace an airfoil with a 4X pattern on the super-wide
hub.

Ken, or anyone else with an Airfoil on a UDC wide hub: do you know if
your spokes were shortened or modified at all when your wheel was built
up?

And what did you guys use to bend the lower portions of the legs near
the bearing holder? Im thinking a vice with leather grips would work.

Thanks in advance for any advice

I DON'T use the extra wide hub. If you mean the Std hub then yes
that's what I use.

I used Tommy Miller spokes. No cutting involved. You should check
with Roger Davies from UDC UK about spoke compatibility

I've seen him build a wheel for Dustin Schaap with UDC stainless steel
spokes and a std (ie not wide) hub.

Ken

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Eric, your suppositions about spoke length are correct. It is
unfortunate that the only retail size of the 14g spoke is 376mm, which
is good for 4-cross on a superwide hub (100mm flange width). Using a
narrower hub (flange width of about 70-75mm) but the same flange
diameter will ideally require shorter spokes by about 2mm. You might
still be able to use the 376s, but run the risk of bottoming out the
nipple.

Going to a 3-cross pattern requires even shorter spokes.

I have a high-flange hub of "regular" width, and with 3-cross it takes
357mm spokes. I have to buy the 376s, cut them down, and have them
re-threaded locally. It's too expensive for the maker to offer several
lengths at 36" wheel spoke sizes.

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Thanks for the input guys.

I think I will go with a 3X pattern then since I will have to modify
the spokes anyway, I know that my LBS can cut and re-thread spokes.

Ken, I meant the standard/skinny hub, UDC has their standard hub listed
as the "wide" where there super-wide is listed as, well the Super-Wide
hub.

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saskatchewanian said:

Ken, I meant the standard/skinny hub, UDC has their standard hub listed
as the "wide" where there super-wide is listed as, well the Super-Wide
hub.

Nope, there's still a difference, Saskatchewanian. UDC's "standard
wide" hub is still wider than a standard coker hub.

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onelesscar said:

Nope, there's still a difference, Saskatchewanian. UDC's "standard
wide" hub is still wider than a standard coker hub.

GizmoDuck said:

I'm using a Std UDC hub, stainless spokes and Airfoil rim.

I know that the standard coker hub is quite a bit more narrow at the
flanges but to me this ^^^ means the UDC "wide" CroMo hub as UDC
doesn't have its name on anything narrower on their site, maybe they
used to have something narrower, I don't know, I am still relatively
new at this. The "wide" (standard) hub still has standard bearing
spacing so I think of it as a standard size.

I have one of these hubs in a wheel I never plan on riding again and it
is what I will be using in my 36er wheel.

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Wonderful, isn't it? We've become as bad as B#^&ers when it comes to
multiple reference standards.
The "standard" uni hub flange width is about 65mm, which was simply
taken from a common bike hub flange width. Its frame bearing centers
are 100mm apart.
The UDC "wide" hub has about a 72mm flange width. The Schwinn "wide"
hub has a 79mm flange width, about the max within the 100mm bearing
center width.
The UDC "superwide" hub has a 100mm flange width, and about a 130mm
bearing center. There are also other hubs out there with 130mm bearing
centers.

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I was thinking exactly the same thing the other day when riding to work
on my narrow/standard width/old Sem hub. It'd be much better to
describe hubs by flange and bearing widths

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I have just been and put the UDC CrMo hub up against a Schwinn hub and
they are both identical at the flange.. so I am not sure where the 79
dimension comes from, I guess the base of the flange. Basically this
dimesion is the largest that will fit in a frame with the bearings at
100mm.

The Nimbus frame will bend in as you need it, I do this all the time.
Although I would not recommend doing this too often. I use a standard
UDC hub for road and wide for offroad.

The width of the hub depends on you... Ken, Dustin, Sam and me all have
small hips.... there for the narrower hub is definately best for us.
:-)

Spokes... the difference in the flange distances makes only a little
difference in a wheel this size. So you can use the standard spokes.
I personally perfer 4 cross although I have not done a direct
comparison but from what I have read and surmise it makes a better
wheel on these really big wheels.

Roger

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rogeratunicycledotcom said:

The width of the hub depends on you... Ken, Dustin, Sam and me all have
small hips.... there for the narrower hub is definately best for us.
:-)

36er q-factor is considerably larger than typical bicycle q-factor.
Wheel strength aside, I would think that a narrower hub is better for
most everyone. Or is bike q-factor abnormally small?

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The goal with the hub width issue is spoke angle. All else being equal,
a wider hub creates a greater spoke angle in toward the rim, thus a
stronger wheel (i.e. able to better resist lateral and vertical
deflections).

But this is not to say that our "standard" narrower hubs cannot be made
into a strong-enough wheel. While hub width is a factor in the wheel
build, lots of other factors, like spoke material and strength,
contribute to an overall strong wheel. (When you put them all together
you have U-Turn's "World's Strongest Coker Wheel"!)

Obviously a wider hub, offset cranks, wider pedals, etc. will all
locate the pedals wider. This final "pedal width" is the "q" factor.

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