Spoke Tension for Velocity Dryad

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

you can call velocity and ask them... pretty sure their answer is 110
max.

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

I think 110 max is a better idea. I use 100-105(just built a Dyad
Tandem wheelset with those numbers..100-105)

Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

I think 110 max is a better idea. I use 100-105(just built a Dyad
Tandem wheelset with those numbers..100-105)

115 to 100 is about an eighth of a turn! Thanks.

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

When did they start making wooden rims?

--
Dane Buson - [email hidden]
The only real advantage to punk music is that nobody can whistle it.

Nate Knutson said:

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

you can call velocity and ask them... pretty sure their answer is 110
max.

Here's what velocity told me by e-mail. Nice that they responded:

"We build all of our wheels at the same spoke tension. Spoke tension is
measured in Kilograms of Force (KGF). We build the front wheel between
105 -115 KGF, and the rear between 110 - 120 KGF."

Slight off-topic. I'm building wheels with these rims, and there are
lots of burrs created when the rim was drilled inside the rim. Do these
need to come out? Also, the rims seem to have a slight flat spot under
the label - at the joint. Are these things normal with these rims?

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

Mark said:

Nate Knutson said:

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

Quoted message said:

you can call velocity and ask them... pretty sure their answer is 110
max.

Here's what velocity told me by e-mail. Nice that they responded:

"We build all of our wheels at the same spoke tension. Spoke tension is
measured in Kilograms of Force (KGF). We build the front wheel between
105 -115 KGF, and the rear between 110 - 120 KGF."

Except their single eyelet ones, like Razor, which they told me to
build at a maximum of 100 kgf..

Reid said:

Slight off-topic. I'm building wheels with these rims, and there are
lots of burrs created when the rim was drilled inside the rim. Do these
need to come out? Also, the rims seem to have a slight flat spot under
the label - at the joint. Are these things normal with these rims?

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

Pretty normal for Velocity. Ensure the tension around the joint, on
either side, is proper and you won't notice the joint.

Reid said:

Slight off-topic. I'm building wheels with these rims, and there are
lots of burrs created when the rim was drilled inside the rim. Do these
need to come out? Also, the rims seem to have a slight flat spot under
the label - at the joint. Are these things normal with these rims?

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

Burrs seem to be there in varying degrees on different rims. I use a deburring tool to remove them and suggest you do the same to protect against "inside" flats. Joints usually have a small amount of "flatness", but can easily be "rounded" out when buidling to proper tension level and tension balance. There are often small burrs on the rim jointed ends. These burrs can also be smoothed out after the wheel build is completed with a fine flat stone.

daveornee said:

Reid said:

Slight off-topic. I'm building wheels with these rims, and there are
lots of burrs created when the rim was drilled inside the rim. Do
these
need to come out? Also, the rims seem to have a slight flat spot
under
the label - at the joint. Are these things normal with these rims?

blisterlester said:

Is 115 kgf drive side too high? Thanks.

Burrs seem to be there in varying degrees on different rims. I use a
deburring tool to remove them and suggest you do the same to protect
against "inside" flats. Joints usually have a small amount of
"flatness", but can easily be "rounded" out when buidling to proper
tension level and tension balance. There are often small burrs on the
rim jointed ends. These burrs can also be smoothed out after the wheel
build is completed with a fine flat stone.

I think I used the wrong word when I said "burrs." What I am talking
about are little, separate pieces of aluminum - circles or spirals -
that are between the walls of the rim. Some simply fall out but I
needed to hook some of them and pull them out. I missed one until it
turned up poking out around a nipple.