Yeah, yeah, I know, but do I really need one of their spanners? Won't an open wrench fit in there? Even if it is 1/8 of a turn at a time? I'm patient.
I think my elderly father has a set of Stilson wrenches somewhere if that is the "secret." I really despise buying special tools that I know I probably will never use again in my life and I have a nut that needs loosening.
Yeah, yeah, I know, but do I really need one of their spanners? Won't an open wrench fit in there? Even if it is 1/8 of a turn at a time? I'm patient.
I think my elderly father has a set of Stilson wrenches somewhere if that is the "secret." I really despise buying special tools that I know I probably will never use again in my life and I have a nut that needs loosening.
You'll need to grind down the sides of the open end wrench. Phil Brown
You'll need to grind down the sides of the open end wrench.
I can do that. I have a grinder. That's what they make Chinese wrenches for. What size do I need?
Thinking again, I might have some "Made in USA" 195x era wrenches that are very strong and very thin on the sides. But if the nut is metric, they won't work.
Yeah, yeah, I know, but do I really need one of their spanners? Won't an open wrench fit in there? Even if it is 1/8 of a turn at a time? I'm patient.
I've used a small adjustable crescent wrench. Slow, but works. I also have a real Brooks spanner somewhere, but for a turn or two ever couple years...it's unnecessary. Good for a shop to own, I guess.
Yeah, yeah, I know, but do I really need one of their spanners? Won't an open wrench fit in there? Even if it is 1/8 of a turn at a time? I'm patient.
I think my elderly father has a set of Stilson wrenches somewhere if that is the "secret." I really despise buying special tools that I know I probably will never use again in my life and I have a nut that needs loosening.
You'll need to grind down the sides of the open end wrench. Phil Brown
yep a 17/32". A thin 14mm line wrench will probably work Or Cut a slot in a 12 point box-end wrench to clear the adjuster shank, thin sides as required. Or IIRC the real thing is about $8 bucks or so, probably $30 in titanium ;-).
Yeah, yeah, I know, but do I really need one of their spanners? Won't an open wrench fit in there? Even if it is 1/8 of a turn at a time? I'm patient.
I think my elderly father has a set of Stilson wrenches somewhere if that is the "secret." I really despise buying special tools that I know I probably will never use again in my life and I have a nut that needs loosening.
You'll need to grind down the sides of the open end wrench. Phil Brown
yep a 17/32". A thin 14mm line wrench will probably work Or Cut a slot in a 12 point box-end wrench to clear the adjuster shank, thin sides as required. Or IIRC the real thing is about $8 bucks or so, probably $30 in titanium ;-).
I use long nose pliers. For best results one should not over tighten the nut, and the feeble grip of the pliers makes it easy to quit before over tightening.
Yeah, yeah, I know, but do I really need one of their spanners? Won't an open wrench fit in there? Even if it is 1/8 of a turn at a time? I'm patient.
I think my elderly father has a set of Stilson wrenches somewhere if that is the "secret." I really despise buying special tools that I know I probably will never use again in my life and I have a nut that needs loosening.
Yeah, yeah, I know, but do I really need one of their spanners? Won't an open wrench fit in there? Even if it is 1/8 of a turn at a time? I'm patient.
I got one by accident (on-line sale, poor stock picker). You still need another tool to hold the bolt whilst you turn the nut. For how ofteb it is used I would bodge it with something else
I've used a small adjustable crescent wrench. Slow, but works. I also have a real Brooks spanner somewhere, but for a turn or two ever couple years...it's unnecessary. Good for a shop to own, I guess.
When I got my Brooks Team Pro 25 or so years ago it included the adjusting wrench. Is that not the case any more? Alas, how the mighty have fallen!
Then there's the offset Campy post/saddle wrench, but I like the Brooks better.
I've used a small adjustable crescent wrench. Slow, but works. I also have a real Brooks spanner somewhere, but for a turn or two ever couple years...it's unnecessary. Good for a shop to own, I guess.
When I got my Brooks Team Pro 25 or so years ago it included the adjusting wrench. Is that not the case any more? Alas, how the mighty have fallen!
Depends on the model. Some of the "Special" models recently have come with the wrench, a tin of proofide, and maybe a seat cover.
"John Thompson" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
landotter said:
I've used a small adjustable crescent wrench. Slow, but works. I also have a real Brooks spanner somewhere, but for a turn or two ever couple years...it's unnecessary. Good for a shop to own, I guess.
When I got my Brooks Team Pro 25 or so years ago it included the adjusting wrench. Is that not the case any more? Alas, how the mighty have fallen!
Then there's the offset Campy post/saddle wrench, but I like the Brooks better.
--
John ([email hidden])
Most don't come with the wrench anymore. I picked up a used bike with a titanium frame Brooks Swallow. The adjusting bolt has a hex swaged into the end and uses a hex key for adjusting.
I have an old Schwinn made wrench designed for adjusting Brooks saddles on Paramounts. It looks like the Campy offset tool but it has a 12 point 10mm wrench on one end instead of the standard 6 point hex wrench. It makes adjusting old style Campy 2 bolt seatposts a lot easier.