I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently 33:16 but as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal clearance on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are wishboned/kicked in (or whatever the term is).
So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a 42 tooth (biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)??
Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right in saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit more proud of the shell?
What other (or real) factors are there?
Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts, should this factor in your thoughts.
I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently 33:16 but as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal clearance on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are wishboned/kicked in (or whatever the term is).
So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a 42 tooth (biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)??
Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right in saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit more proud of the shell?
I had the same problem (44T ring). Yes you need a longer spindle, but the problem is/can be that if you want a perfect chainline the cog has to move to the outside too. With larger cogs, in my case larger then 17T, the chain can rub against the vertical chainstay (correct term?). It all depends on the frame though. Try and error ;-).
Quoted message said:
What other (or real) factors are there?
Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts, should this factor in your thoughts.
I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently 33:16 but as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal clearance on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are wishboned/kicked in (or whatever the term is).
So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a 42 tooth (biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)??
Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right in saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit more proud of the shell?
What other (or real) factors are there?
Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts, should this factor in your thoughts.
Thanks
Are you using a a SS hub, or just spacers on a reular cassette hub? With spacers you can monkey with the chainline easier and move it outward and then put your 42 at say the middle position, assuming you're not using a SS crank.
<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Cychlo-path said:
Sorry if this seems simplistic but.....
I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently 33:16
but
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal
clearance
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are wishboned/kicked in
(or
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
whatever the term is).
So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a 42
tooth
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
(biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)??
Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right in saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit more
proud
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
of the shell?
What other (or real) factors are there?
Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts, should
this
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
factor in your thoughts.
Thanks
Are you using a a SS hub, or just spacers on a reular cassette hub? With spacers you can monkey with the chainline easier and move it outward and then put your 42 at say the middle position, assuming you're not using a SS crank.
Joseph
No, i've appropriated a regular cassette along with a good number of 3mm and 1mm spacers so no problem at the backend other than that which Lou mentions. I'm using a SS crank currently (very similar in design to those which come with shimano's nexus gear hub) but for the 42 ring i was going to use SS/track chainring bolts and an appropriate crank. So now i'm confused, what exactly do you mean?? I suppose this was largely my initial question, if using the latter chainring setup how do i ensure a good chainline 'up front', i.e. ensure the ring is in the middle or outer position?
I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently 33:16
but
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal
clearance
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are wishboned/kicked in
(or
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
whatever the term is).
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a 42
tooth
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
(biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)??
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right in saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit more
proud
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
of the shell?
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
What other (or real) factors are there?
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts, should
this
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
factor in your thoughts.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Thanks
Quoted message said:
Are you using a a SS hub, or just spacers on a reular cassette hub? With spacers you can monkey with the chainline easier and move it outward and then put your 42 at say the middle position, assuming you're not using a SS crank.
Quoted message said:
Joseph
No, i've appropriated a regular cassette along with a good number of 3mm and 1mm spacers so no problem at the backend other than that which Lou mentions. I'm using a SS crank currently (very similar in design to those which come with shimano's nexus gear hub) but for the 42 ring i was going to use SS/track chainring bolts and an appropriate crank. So now i'm confused, what exactly do you mean?? I suppose this was largely my initial question, if using the latter chainring setup how do i ensure a good chainline 'up front', i.e. ensure the ring is in the middle or outer position?
If you are using a regular MTB tripple crank, the middle position will probably be the easiest one to get it all to work with for a 42x16 or 18. That way you don't have clearance issues from the 42 being too close to the chainstay, nor do you have clearance problems with a big 16 or 18 being too close to the chainstay if you used the outer chainring position.
<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Cychlo-path said:
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
On Sep 15, 12:25 pm, "Cychlo-path" <[email hidden]> wrote: > Sorry if this seems simplistic but.....
Quoted message said:
> I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently
33:16
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
but
Quoted message said:
> as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to > 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal
clearance
Quoted message said:
> on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are
wishboned/kicked in
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
(or
Quoted message said:
> whatever the term is).
Quoted message said:
> So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a
42
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
tooth
Quoted message said:
> (biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)??
Quoted message said:
> Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right
in
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit
more
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
proud
Quoted message said:
> of the shell?
Quoted message said:
> What other (or real) factors are there?
Quoted message said:
> Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts,
should
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
this
Quoted message said:
> factor in your thoughts.
Quoted message said:
> Thanks
Quoted message said:
Are you using a a SS hub, or just spacers on a reular cassette hub? With spacers you can monkey with the chainline easier and move it outward and then put your 42 at say the middle position, assuming you're not using a SS crank.
Quoted message said:
Joseph
No, i've appropriated a regular cassette along with a good number of 3mm
and
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
1mm spacers so no problem at the backend other than that which Lou
mentions.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I'm using a SS crank currently (very similar in design to those which
come
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
with shimano's nexus gear hub) but for the 42 ring i was going to use SS/track chainring bolts and an appropriate crank. So now i'm confused,
what
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
exactly do you mean?? I suppose this was largely my initial question, if using the latter chainring setup how do i ensure a good chainline 'up front', i.e. ensure the ring is in the middle or outer position?
If you are using a regular MTB tripple crank, the middle position will probably be the easiest one to get it all to work with for a 42x16 or 18. That way you don't have clearance issues from the 42 being too close to the chainstay, nor do you have clearance problems with a big 16 or 18 being too close to the chainstay if you used the outer chainring position.
Joseph
True enough but i was hoping to just have one chain ring up front. Presumably then it's a case of matching the bb spindle length with the shape of the stays; pot luck + trial and error?
<[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Cychlo-path said:
<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...
> On Sep 15, 12:25 pm, "Cychlo-path" <[email hidden]> wrote: >> Sorry if this seems simplistic but..... >> I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently
33:16
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
but >> as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to >> 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal clearance >> on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are
wishboned/kicked in
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
(or >> whatever the term is). >> So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a
42
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
tooth >> (biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)?? >> Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right
in
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
>> saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit
more
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
proud >> of the shell? >> What other (or real) factors are there? >> Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts,
should
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
this >> factor in your thoughts. >> Thanks > Are you using a a SS hub, or just spacers on a reular cassette hub? > With spacers you can monkey with the chainline easier and move it > outward and then put your 42 at say the middle position, assuming > you're not using a SS crank. > Joseph No, i've appropriated a regular cassette along with a good number of 3mm
and
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
1mm spacers so no problem at the backend other than that which Lou
mentions.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I'm using a SS crank currently (very similar in design to those which
come
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
with shimano's nexus gear hub) but for the 42 ring i was going to use SS/track chainring bolts and an appropriate crank. So now i'm confused,
what
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
exactly do you mean?? I suppose this was largely my initial question, if using the latter chainring setup how do i ensure a good chainline 'up front', i.e. ensure the ring is in the middle or outer position?
If you are using a regular MTB tripple crank, the middle position will probably be the easiest one to get it all to work with for a 42x16 or 18. That way you don't have clearance issues from the 42 being too close to the chainstay, nor do you have clearance problems with a big 16 or 18 being too close to the chainstay if you used the outer chainring position.
Joseph
True enough but i was hoping to just have one chain ring up front. Presumably then it's a case of matching the bb spindle length with the shape of the stays; pot luck + trial and error?
You can cheat a little putting a 1 mm (?) spacer between the BB and BB shell.
> On Sep 15, 12:25 pm, "Cychlo-path" <[email hidden]> wrote: > > Sorry if this seems simplistic but.....
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> > I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently
33:16
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
but > > as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to > > 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal clearance > > on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are
wishboned/kicked in
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
(or > > whatever the term is).
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> > So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a
42
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
tooth > > (biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)??
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> > Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right
in
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> > saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit
more
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
proud > > of the shell?
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> > What other (or real) factors are there?
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> > Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts,
should
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
this > > factor in your thoughts.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> > Thanks
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> Are you using a a SS hub, or just spacers on a reular cassette hub? > With spacers you can monkey with the chainline easier and move it > outward and then put your 42 at say the middle position, assuming > you're not using a SS crank.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
> Joseph
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
No, i've appropriated a regular cassette along with a good number of 3mm
and
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
1mm spacers so no problem at the backend other than that which Lou
mentions.
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
I'm using a SS crank currently (very similar in design to those which
come
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
with shimano's nexus gear hub) but for the 42 ring i was going to use SS/track chainring bolts and an appropriate crank. So now i'm confused,
what
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
exactly do you mean?? I suppose this was largely my initial question, if using the latter chainring setup how do i ensure a good chainline 'up front', i.e. ensure the ring is in the middle or outer position?
Quoted message said:
If you are using a regular MTB tripple crank, the middle position will probably be the easiest one to get it all to work with for a 42x16 or 18. That way you don't have clearance issues from the 42 being too close to the chainstay, nor do you have clearance problems with a big 16 or 18 being too close to the chainstay if you used the outer chainring position.
Quoted message said:
Joseph
True enough but i was hoping to just have one chain ring up front. Presumably then it's a case of matching the bb spindle length with the shape of the stays; pot luck + trial and error?
You can still only have one. Use SS bolts or file down the regular ones.
As for using a SS crank, I'd check Sheldon's chainline specs and measure what you've got to work it out.
"Cychlo-path" <[email hidden]> wrote in message news:[email hidden]...
Quoted message said:
Sorry if this seems simplistic but.....
I've converted my mtb to SS, just for fun really. It's currently 33:16 but as i'm using it on flat road for the most part I'm looking in to 42:16/42:18. Currently the 33 tooth chainring has ultra minimal clearance on the chain stays probably due to the fact they are wishboned/kicked in
(or
Quoted message said:
whatever the term is).
So the obvious question; how do i ensure chainstay clearance with a 42
tooth
Quoted message said:
(biopace ring - so irregular diameter too)??
Is it just a case of bottom bracket spindle length? If so am I right in saying that a longer spindle always makes any given chainset sit more
proud
Quoted message said:
of the shell?
What other (or real) factors are there?
Also, i intend to use the narrower single speed chainring bolts, should
