Paint, again

UMTERP said:

I know that this has been rehashed a million times, but....any suggestions on a paint place that
does one color? I guess that I'll need to get the decals as well, right?

Thinking about The Color Factory in NJ, but somehow I've got to get decals for him to apply.
Again, any feedback?

Waterford does excellent wet paint at a reasonable price.

If you prefer powder that's often cheaper. The color/effect ranges are limited in powder, if that
matters to you.

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"UMTERP" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I know that this has been rehashed a million times, but....any suggestions

on a

Quoted message said:

paint place that does one color? I guess that I'll need to get the decals

as

Quoted message said:

well, right?

Thinking about The Color Factory in NJ, but somehow I've got to get decals

for

Quoted message said:

him to apply. Again, any feedback?

TIA

Dave

Why decals? In my younger days when I fixed up old muscle cars, we used to "shave" the emblems off
all the time. Gives it a nice classy look IMHO. One of my bikes (my newest actually) is polished
aluminum with all black accents, and no decals. It looks spectacular now ... I only rode it twice
before deciding to take the refrigerator white paint off (c:

As long as you know what you're riding does it matter?

C.Q.C.

umterp-<< I know that this has been rehashed a million times, but....any suggestions on a paint
place that does one color? I guess that I'll need to get the decals as well, right? >><BR><BR>

Rainbow CycleCraft in Niwot CO. Who we use. He can also create decals.

Email is [email hidden] phone is 303-652-3009

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

"Q." <LostVideos-AT-hotmail.com> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"UMTERP" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I know that this has been rehashed a million times, but....any

suggestions

Quoted message said:

on a

Quoted message said:

paint place that does one color? I guess that I'll need to get the

decals

Quoted message said:

as

Quoted message said:

well, right?

Thinking about The Color Factory in NJ, but somehow I've got to get

decals

Quoted message said:

for

Quoted message said:

him to apply. Again, any feedback?

TIA

Dave

Why decals? In my younger days when I fixed up old muscle cars, we used

to

Quoted message said:

"shave" the emblems off all the time. Gives it a nice classy look IMHO. One of my bikes (my newest
actually) is polished aluminum with all black accents, and no decals. It looks spectacular now ...
I only rode it twice before deciding to take the refrigerator white paint off (c:

As long as you know what you're riding does it matter?

Do you need to use anything special to strip the paint off an Al frame? I am thinking that an angle
grinder with a wire attachment would be too abrasive?

Tim

"A Muzi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

UMTERP said:

I know that this has been rehashed a million times, but....any

suggestions on a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

paint place that does one color? I guess that I'll need to get the

decals as

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

well, right?

Thinking about The Color Factory in NJ, but somehow I've got to get

decals for

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

him to apply. Again, any feedback?

Waterford does excellent wet paint at a reasonable price.

$350 off-season to $450 in-season isn't very reasonable. At
southwestframeworks.compaint.htmOpen ↗ $190 to $235 sounds more reasonable.

Quoted message said:

If you prefer powder that's often cheaper. The color/effect ranges are limited in powder, if that
matters to you.

Robin Hubert

"Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Do you need to use anything special to strip the paint off an Al frame?

Try aircraft paint remover. Works like a charm.

Matt O.

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UMTERP wrote:

-snip-

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paint?

-snip-

Quoted message said:

"A Muzi" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Waterford

-blah blah snip-

Robin Hubert said:

$350 off-season to $450 in-season isn't very reasonable. At
southwestframeworks.compaint.htmOpen ↗ $190 to $235 sounds more reasonable.

As John Dacey would say, de gustibus non diputandem.

Note to CF- try snipping. It's fun!
--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Do you need to use anything special to strip the paint off an Al frame?

Try aircraft paint remover. Works like a charm.

Matt O.

That's exactly what I used per suggestions from this group, and it worked like a charm. Just brush
it on cold, and the paint crinkles up and can be wiped off (you can hear it crinkling the paint, how
cool is that?). The stuff I used was "Low Odor Aircraft Remover" by Kleen Strip.

Don't get any of this stuff on your skin ... treat it like it was the ebola virus.

C.Q.C.

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 23:22:10 +1100, "Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> may

have said:

Do you need to use anything special to strip the paint off an Al frame?

Avoid heat strippers, and avoid chemical strippers which do not state that they are safe for
aluminum; follow the manufacturer's directions precisely when using a chemical stripper on aluminum,
or you may end up with an etched surface.

Quoted message said:

I am thinking that an angle grinder with a wire attachment would be too abrasive?

I wouldn't use anything that aggressive.

As always, bear in mind before removing the old paint that it is very difficult to get paint to
stick to aluminum; professional shops typically use paints that are not practical to obtain in small
quantities, and they use equipment, preparation methods and other materials that are not available
to the average amateur. Unless there is some compelling reason to remove the old paint, your best
bet is to leave it there and paint over it if you must change the color of the frame. In my
experience, the chances of getting a durable homebrew paint job on bare aluminum are slightly worse
than the chances of avoiding a puncture when crossing a patch of goat heads.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy. Words processed in a facility that
contains nuts.

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

As always, bear in mind before removing the old paint that it is very difficult to get paint to
stick to aluminum; professional shops typically use paints that are not practical to obtain in
small quantities, and they use equipment, preparation methods and other materials that are not
available to the average amateur. Unless there is some compelling reason to remove the old paint,
your best bet is to leave it there and paint over it if you must change the color of the frame. In
my experience, the chances of getting a durable homebrew paint job on bare aluminum are slightly
worse than the chances of avoiding a puncture when crossing a patch of goat heads.

Your chances of getting a *durable* finish are actually pretty good, if you use the right products,
and follow directions. Sailboat spars I stripped and painted 20 years ago still look great. You can
go to West Marine and get all the stuff you need, in small quantities, and it will "stick to
aluminum" wonderfully. But by the time you buy all the stripper, prep solution, primer, paint,
thinner, and everything else you need, you'll have spent *at least* $50. And the finish will not be
as even as one applied by a professional painter, who is well-practiced with a spray gun. After all
that money and effort, your finish will probably look pretty sad. It's well worth it to spend
another $50-100 for someone else to do it right, and to avoid the considerable labor and mess. Not
to mention avoiding the environmental sins you'll commit by disposing of a pile of stripped paint
goo. A pro painter is (hopefully) equipped to deal with this too.

Painting bike frames is definately one of those things best left to "the guy who does that."

The exception is if you're going for a Rustoleum-level finish, which to me is not worth taking a
bike apart for.

Matt O.

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

As always, bear in mind before removing the old paint that it

is very

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

difficult to get paint to stick to aluminum; professional

shops

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

typically use paints that are not practical to obtain in

small

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

quantities, and they use equipment, preparation methods and

other

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

materials that are not available to the average amateur.

Unless there

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

is some compelling reason to remove the old paint, your best

bet is to

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

leave it there and paint over it if you must change the color

of the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

frame. In my experience, the chances of getting a durable

homebrew

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

paint job on bare aluminum are slightly worse than the

chances of

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

avoiding a puncture when crossing a patch of goat heads.

Your chances of getting a *durable* finish are actually pretty

good, if you use

Quoted message said:

the right products, and follow directions. Sailboat spars I

stripped and

Quoted message said:

painted 20 years ago still look great. You can go to West

Marine and get all

Quoted message said:

the stuff you need, in small quantities, and it will "stick to

aluminum"

Quoted message said:

wonderfully. But by the time you buy all the stripper, prep

solution, primer,

Quoted message said:

paint, thinner, and everything else you need, you'll have spent

*at least* $50.

Quoted message said:

And the finish will not be as even as one applied by a

professional painter, who

Quoted message said:

is well-practiced with a spray gun. After all that money and

effort, your

Quoted message said:

finish will probably look pretty sad. It's well worth it to

spend another

Quoted message said:

$50-100 for someone else to do it right, and to avoid the

considerable labor and

Quoted message said:

mess. Not to mention avoiding the environmental sins you'll

commit by disposing

Quoted message said:

of a pile of stripped paint goo. A pro painter is (hopefully)

equipped to deal

Quoted message said:

with this too.

It can be even more expensive if you go with one of the multi-part or multi-coat
(base/pigment/clear) auto paints. And you will end up with tons of left overs. It only pays if you
have to paint an entire fleet.

With that said, I think I will paint my own frame. Does anyone know of a good OTC paint? --
Jay Beattie.

How do I find The Color Factory? I live in NJ and have been unsuccessful in locating it.

"UMTERP" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I know that this has been rehashed a million times, but....any suggestions

on a

Quoted message said:

paint place that does one color? I guess that I'll need to get the decals

as

Quoted message said:

well, right?

Thinking about The Color Factory in NJ, but somehow I've got to get decals

for

Quoted message said:

him to apply. Again, any feedback?

TIA

Dave

"Jay Beattie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

With that said, I think I will paint my own frame. Does anyone know of a good OTC paint? -- Jay
Beattie.

Spray or brush?

Matt O.

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Jay Beattie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

With that said, I think I will paint my own frame. Does anyone know of a good OTC paint? -- Jay
Beattie.

Spray or brush?

Spray with an HVLP conversion gun probably -- or I might pick up a cheap conventional touch up gun.
-- Jay Beattie.

"Jay Beattie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Matt O'Toole" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"Jay Beattie" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

With that said, I think I will paint my own frame. Does anyone know of a good OTC paint? --
Jay Beattie.

Spray or brush?

Spray with an HVLP conversion gun probably -- or I might pick up a cheap conventional touch up
gun. -- Jay Beattie.

If you can't find an economical automotive paint, try the epoxy paints from a hobby store, for
painting model airplanes. They're cheap and available in small quanitities. Unless the paint maker
gives you different instructions for aluminum, a good aluminum prep solution (usually phosphoric
acid based) and a coat of automotive primer should make it stick just fine. You should be able to
get the prep solution at an auto parts store that sells paint stuff. You can definately get it at a
marine store, but you'll pay the "yachtsman's discount."

I once did a bike this way, with an airbrush and Petit Hobbypoxy. It came out great -- best bike
paint job I ever did. But I didn't keep it long, so I don't know how well it lasted.

Matt O.

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 30 Nov 2003 23:22:10 +1100, "Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> may

have said:

Do you need to use anything special to strip the paint off an Al frame?

Avoid heat strippers, and avoid chemical strippers which do not state that they are safe for
aluminum; follow the manufacturer's directions precisely when using a chemical stripper on
aluminum, or you may end up with an etched surface.

Quoted message said:

I am thinking that an angle grinder with a wire attachment would be too

abrasive?

Quoted message said:

I wouldn't use anything that aggressive.

As always, bear in mind before removing the old paint that it is very difficult to get paint to
stick to aluminum; professional shops typically use paints that are not practical to obtain in
small quantities, and they use equipment, preparation methods and other materials that are not
available to the average amateur. Unless there is some compelling reason to remove the old paint,
your best bet is to leave it there and paint over it if you must change the color of the frame. In
my experience, the chances of getting a durable homebrew paint job on bare aluminum are slightly
worse than the chances of avoiding a puncture when crossing a patch of goat heads.

I wasn't thinking of respraying, and my bike is quite new. Just thinking ahead to when it looks
ratty, that I may end up going for the naked Aluminium look ;-)

Nice matt black paint on their at the moment.

Tim

Tim Jones' may have said:

Nice matt black paint on their at the moment.

That may also be a powdercoat. Opinions vary as to the merits of powder vs paint, but some people
have had good results from it. If it's powdercoat, the "paint over the existing color" option
sometimes doesn't work, as apparently even fewer paints will stick to some powdercoats than will
stick to aluminum. In that case, your plan to go with the polished aluminum look someday may be your
best bet. Until then, leaving it alone is almost certainly the most economical path, of course.

--
My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I
don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy. Words processed in a facility that
contains nuts.

"Werehatrack" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Wed, 3 Dec 2003 22:18:13 +1100, "Tim Jones" <[email hidden]> may

have said:

Nice matt black paint on their at the moment.

That may also be a powdercoat. Opinions vary as to the merits of powder vs paint, but some
people have had good results from it. If it's powdercoat, the "paint over the existing color"
option sometimes doesn't work, as apparently even fewer paints will stick to some powdercoats
than will stick to aluminum. In that case, your plan to go with the polished aluminum look
someday may be your best bet. Until then, leaving it alone is almost certainly the most
economical path, of course.

Definitely my plan ;-)

Should hopefully last the life of the bike, but I am starting to do more mountain biking now.

Tim

Quoted message said:

The exception is if you're going for a Rustoleum-level finish, which to me is not worth taking a
bike apart for.

Could you expound on that? I've got an old steel frame with peeling paint (Japanese-made Bianchi
from the 80's) which is still great as a commuter, but I'm afraid of rust now that it's wet here
(CA). I'd like to protect the frame while doing a relatively decent-looking, durable, and
inexpensive paint job, without stripping the old paint if possible. Can it be done?

tia, -greg