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quad chainring

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UK and Europe
Published
5 September 2007
Last activity
7 September 2007
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  1. I'm trying to find the best way of adding higher gears to our tandem.
    Rear wheel was originally 6 speed 14-28 which I've just swapped for 7
    speed, currently 13-28, but will probably fit SRAM 12-32.

    The bigger problem is the 22/32/42 chainrings. The crankset (compact
    triple, 94mm BCD) is in very good condition and would be expensive to
    change. I can change the middle and the outer to get 22/36/50 which
    would be OK from the gearing point of view, but would give large
    jumps.

    I found this website

    http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tancrank.htm

    which describes how to put a 4th chainring on the outside of a
    crankset and this one

    http://www.abundantadventures.com/mtfaq/frontderail/fr.derail.mods.html

    which desribes how to modify a front mech to work with four
    chainrings.

    Any chance I could use these methods to add a 50T chainring (biggest I
    can find in 94 BCD) to the outside? My guess is the crank will hit the
    front mech, any views?

    Rob

  2. Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to find the best way of adding higher gears to our tandem.
    Rear wheel was originally 6 speed 14-28 which I've just swapped for 7
    speed, currently 13-28, but will probably fit SRAM 12-32.

    The bigger problem is the 22/32/42 chainrings. The crankset (compact
    triple, 94mm BCD) is in very good condition and would be expensive to
    change. I can change the middle and the outer to get 22/36/50 which
    would be OK from the gearing point of view, but would give large
    jumps.

    Big jumps at the front don't matter much when you have small jumps at the
    rear. How about upgrading to 9 or 10 speed at the back?

    Quoted message said:

    I found this website

    http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tancrank.htm

    which describes how to put a 4th chainring on the outside of a
    crankset and this one

    http://www.abundantadventures.com/mtfaq/frontderail/fr.derail.mods.html

    which desribes how to modify a front mech to work with four
    chainrings.

    Any chance I could use these methods to add a 50T chainring (biggest I
    can find in 94 BCD) to the outside? My guess is the crank will hit the
    front mech, any views?

    I'd expect that to be a problem too.

    ~PB

  3. [email hidden] wrote:
    .....

    Quoted message said:

    Any chance I could use these methods to add a 50T chainring (biggest I
    can find in 94 BCD) to the outside? My guess is the crank will hit the
    front mech, any views?

    Chainline will be poor as well.

    ~PB

  4. Pete Biggs said:
    Quoted message said:

    Any chance I could use these methods to add a 50T chainring (biggest I
    can find in 94 BCD) to the outside? My guess is the crank will hit the
    front mech, any views?

    Chainline will be poor as well.

    Yes, I know, and I'm more likely to neglect it on a tandem because I
    can't glance down and see it.

    You can get excellent chainline on a tandem by moving the front mech
    etc to the captain's BB. Chain is then so long that it doesn't matter
    what combinations you use as the change in angle is tiny.

    Rob

  5. [email hidden] wrote in news:1188978771.596089.148660
    @y42g2000hsy.googlegroups.com:

    Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to find the best way of adding higher gears to our tandem.
    Rear wheel was originally 6 speed 14-28 which I've just swapped for 7
    speed, currently 13-28, but will probably fit SRAM 12-32.

    The bigger problem is the 22/32/42 chainrings. The crankset (compact
    triple, 94mm BCD) is in very good condition and would be expensive to
    change. I can change the middle and the outer to get 22/36/50 which
    would be OK from the gearing point of view, but would give large
    jumps.

    I found this website

    http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tancrank.htm

    which describes how to put a 4th chainring on the outside of a
    crankset and this one

    http://www.abundantadventures.com/mtfaq/frontderail/fr.derail.mods.html

    which desribes how to modify a front mech to work with four
    chainrings.

    Any chance I could use these methods to add a 50T chainring (biggest I
    can find in 94 BCD) to the outside? My guess is the crank will hit the
    front mech, any views?

    I would just go for the 22-36-50 and fit a road front derailleur to do
    the shifting. Big gaps on the front really don't matter - on tandems you
    are far better using the cassette for gear changing as it changes better
    under load than the front and just using the front to select the
    appropriate range for the current terrain.

    Another option, but it might wear rather quickly, would be to consider a
    Capreo cassette and hub which goes down to a 9 tooth sprocket. Really
    designed for folding bikes but certainly would give you a much higher
    gear.

    --
    Tony

    " I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
    Bertrand Russell

  6. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    I'm trying to find the best way of adding higher gears to our tandem.
    Rear wheel was originally 6 speed 14-28 which I've just swapped for 7
    speed, currently 13-28, but will probably fit SRAM 12-32.

    The bigger problem is the 22/32/42 chainrings. The crankset (compact
    triple, 94mm BCD) is in very good condition and would be expensive to
    change. I can change the middle and the outer to get 22/36/50 which
    would be OK from the gearing point of view, but would give large
    jumps.

    I found this website

    http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tancrank.htm

    which describes how to put a 4th chainring on the outside of a
    crankset and this one

    http://www.abundantadventures.com/mtfaq/frontderail/fr.derail.mods.html

    which desribes how to modify a front mech to work with four
    chainrings.

    Any chance I could use these methods to add a 50T chainring (biggest I
    can find in 94 BCD) to the outside? My guess is the crank will hit the
    front mech, any views?

    Just go for the big jumps - we've got 24/38/50 on the road tandem and it's
    not that bad.

    One note : You're on the slippery slope of upgrading now. There are an awful
    lot of people who do this, spending more on upgrades than they would have
    getting something rather better in the first place, and they still have eg a
    lower quality frame.

    Consider how much you're spending, and consider cutting your losses sooner
    rather than later.

    cheers,
    clive

  7. Clive George said:

    Just go for the big jumps - we've got 24/38/50 on the road tandem and it's
    not that bad.

    One note : You're on the slippery slope of upgrading now. There are an awful
    lot of people who do this, spending more on upgrades than they would have
    getting something rather better in the first place, and they still have eg a
    lower quality frame.

    Consider how much you're spending, and consider cutting your losses sooner
    rather than later.

    Yes, that's in the back of my mind all the time. This is a consciously
    a cheap tandem to see if we like using a tandem. If we really take to
    it, I'd like to get something better in the future, ideally a Pino,
    but who knows.

    I'm actually pleased with the quality of the thing, it rides very
    well. I'm mystified by the provenance of the frame. It has felt fine
    on everything we've done on it, it coped with a previous heavy team on
    rough tracks, and it's light enough for me lift into the car by myself
    without difficulty. Other bits are a mishmash, but at least decent if
    not good.

    The only thing that spoils our enjoyment is the gearing, which I'm
    trying to change as cheaply as possible. Upgrade from 6 to 7 gears at
    the back has been achieved for £2.20, the price at auction of an old
    MTB that's in good condition, which will donate its STI shifter, rear
    mech + wheel. Cassette was only 13-28, so will probably spend £15 on
    replacing that with a 12-32. 8 speed would have been good, but I might
    wait a long time to see one.

    I didn't recognize the compact chainset (never had one before) until I
    discovered my spare 48T chainring didn't fit, which was going to be my
    major cheap gear upgrade, so now I'm looking at other possibilities.
    Finding a 2nd hand bike with a 94 BCD 48/50T chainring seems highly
    improbably. I'll have another look at cassettes with 11T sprockets.
    Last time I looked I could only find ones that went up to the mid 20s
    or the 11-34 megarange which has a huge jump to the 34 I don't like.
    An 11T sprocket on the back might give enough of a boost to live with
    the front chainrings for a while.

    I see what I am doing as configuring rather than upgrading - if we'd
    got a better 2nd hand one, there's still a fair chance the options
    wouldn't suit us and we'd have to make some changes.

    Rob

  8. Tony Raven said:

    I would just go for the 22-36-50 and fit a road front derailleur to do
    the shifting. Big gaps on the front really don't matter - on tandems you
    are far better using the cassette for gear changing as it changes better
    under load than the front and just using the front to select the
    appropriate range for the current terrain.

    I find I have to shift the front quite a lot at the moment, probably
    because 14-28 isn't a big enough range at the back. 12-32 should
    improve this.

    Quoted message said:

    Another option, but it might wear rather quickly, would be to consider a
    Capreo cassette and hub which goes down to a 9 tooth sprocket. Really
    designed for folding bikes but certainly would give you a much higher
    gear.

    Interesting idea, I've never heard of these, not being in to folding
    bikes. A quick google only found the 32 hole hub on sale in the UK,
    but even with the 36H I'd be a bit worried about longevity. And ISTR
    someone here making caustic remarks about the efficiency of 11T
    sprockets, so I dread to think what they'd say about about 9T. But
    thanks, always nice to hear of different approaches.

    Rob

  9. [email hidden] wrote in
    news:[email hidden]:

    Quoted message said:
    Tony Raven said:

    I would just go for the 22-36-50 and fit a road front derailleur to
    do the shifting. Big gaps on the front really don't matter - on
    tandems you are far better using the cassette for gear changing as it
    changes better under load than the front and just using the front to
    select the appropriate range for the current terrain.

    I find I have to shift the front quite a lot at the moment, probably
    because 14-28 isn't a big enough range at the back. 12-32 should
    improve this.

    Then consider revising your changing style - you need more anticipation and
    planning on a tandem than a single. For example if you are coming down a
    hill and about to hit an upslope it is worth first measuring your speed at
    a comfortable cadence in the small/small combination. On a tandem you then
    put it in small small at the bottom of the hill, wait till your speed drops
    to the above measured one and then start pedalling, working steadily down
    the rear gears as necessary. You wouldn't do this on a single but on a
    tandem it can be very difficult to shift the front gear under load.
    Similarly in other situations anticipate and be in the right front gear to
    begin with and then use the rear gears to give you changes for local
    variations as needed.

    --
    Tony

    " I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong."
    Bertrand Russell

  10. Quoting <[email hidden]>:

    Quoted message said:

    The bigger problem is the 22/32/42 chainrings. The crankset (compact
    triple, 94mm BCD) is in very good condition and would be expensive to
    change. I can change the middle and the outer to get 22/36/50 which
    would be OK from the gearing point of view, but would give large
    jumps.

    You might have a concern that in 94mm BCD the 50t would be insufficiently
    stiff, which causes the chain to fall down the gap between it and the
    middle ring. We definitely had this problem in 86mm Stronglight. It is
    much easier to induce on a tandem, of course.
    --
    OPTIONS=name:Kirsty,menustyle:C,female,lit_corridor,standout,time,showexp,hilit
    e_pet,catname:Akane,dogname:Ryoga,fruit:okonomiyaki,pickup_types:"!$?=/,scores:
    5 top/2 around,color,boulder:0,autoquiver,autodig,disclose:yiyayvygyc,pickup_bu
    rden:burdened,!cmdassist,msg_window:reversed,!sparkle,horsename:Rumiko,showrace

  11. In news:[email hidden],
    David Damerell <[email hidden]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine
    to tell us:

    Quoted message said:

    You might have a concern that in 94mm BCD the 50t would be
    insufficiently stiff, which causes the chain to fall down the gap
    between it and the middle ring. We definitely had this problem in
    86mm Stronglight. It is much easier to induce on a tandem, of course.

    I've put in 2000-odd km on a 20/36/50 94/58 chainset in the past month or so
    and haven't had any problems of this nature. Just the left crank attempting
    to escape...

    --
    Dave Larrington
    <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
    Mr. Charles Kennedy (Krankieburgh): Would the Prime Minister
    care to comment on a report in today's Guardian that he: "arrived
    late for a meeting with Jacques Chirac, smelling of alcohol, and
    with body language suggesting a total disregard for the rights
    of ethnic minorities, lone parents and laboratory animals"?

  12. Quoting Dave Larrington <[email hidden]>:

    Quoted message said:

    David Damerell <[email hidden]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine

    Quoted message said:

    You might have a concern that in 94mm BCD the 50t would be
    insufficiently stiff, which causes the chain to fall down the gap
    between it and the middle ring. We definitely had this problem in
    86mm Stronglight. It is much easier to induce on a tandem, of course.


    I've put in 2000-odd km on a 20/36/50 94/58 chainset in the past month or so
    and haven't had any problems of this nature.

    But not on a tandem? And, perhaps, also on a design of bike that doesn't
    encourage stomping on the pedals? It's obviously a lot easier with twice
    as much lard to pull the chain into that gap.

    Sure, you won't have that problem if you slack off all the way before
    shifting up, but you're going to push it sometimes.

    Mind you, it might just be that the difference between 86mm and 94mm is
    enough.
    --
    OPTIONS=name:Kirsty,menustyle:C,female,lit_corridor,standout,time,showexp,hilit
    e_pet,catname:Akane,dogname:Ryoga,fruit:okonomiyaki,pickup_types:"!$?=/,scores:
    5 top/2 around,color,boulder:0,autoquiver,autodig,disclose:yiyayvygyc,pickup_bu
    rden:burdened,!cmdassist,msg_window:reversed,!sparkle,horsename:Rumiko,showrace

  13. In news:[email hidden],
    David Damerell <[email hidden]> tweaked the Babbage-Engine
    to tell us:

    Quoted message said:

    Quoting Dave Larrington <[email hidden]>:

    Quoted message said:

    David Damerell <[email hidden]> tweaked the
    Babbage-Engine

    Quoted message said:

    You might have a concern that in 94mm BCD the 50t would be
    insufficiently stiff, which causes the chain to fall down the gap
    between it and the middle ring. We definitely had this problem in
    86mm Stronglight. It is much easier to induce on a tandem, of
    course.


    I've put in 2000-odd km on a 20/36/50 94/58 chainset in the past
    month or so and haven't had any problems of this nature.

    But not on a tandem? And, perhaps, also on a design of bike that
    doesn't encourage stomping on the pedals? It's obviously a lot easier
    with twice as much lard to pull the chain into that gap.

    Sure, you won't have that problem if you slack off all the way before
    shifting up, but you're going to push it sometimes.

    Mind you, it might just be that the difference between 86mm and 94mm
    is enough.

    And possibly because the 86 mm "Strong"light chainrings have a well-deserved
    reputation for being made of cheese. I know of a Several of people who have
    borken chainrings while using said cranks on fixers, myself included.

    --
    Dave Larrington
    <http://www.legslarry.beerdrinkers.co.uk>
    Mushroom! Mushroom!

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