Replacement Gear Cable for STI

Arthur Harris said:

I plan to replace my gear and brake cables over the winter. For one thing, I don't want the gear
cables to start breaking up and jamming the STI levers.

I've noticed that you can buy Shimano replacement "cable sets" or you can buy generic cables
and housings

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff? Do the generic cables have the
correct "barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)? Are Campy cable ends
different that Shimano?

As the car guys on NPR say...

The generics dont come with the special herbs that you are supposed to boil and say a prayer over
before installation.

Actually, as long as you purchase a decent cable, any manufacturer should be fine. Stick with the
LBS stuff - not necessarily the name brand items. Most bikes in for repair end up with the generics
installed.

Arthur Harris said:

I plan to replace my gear and brake cables over the winter. For one thing, I don't want the gear
cables to start breaking up and jamming the STI levers.

I've noticed that you can buy Shimano replacement "cable sets" or you can buy generic cables and
housings

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff? Do the generic cables have the correct
"barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)? Are Campy cable ends different that
Shimano?

As the price difference is so small, I'd buy the Shimano ones. Then you'll know the inners won't
stretch and the outers won't compress (which is what messes up shifting).

For brake cables I'd be less concerned about original stuff, as other companies such as Clark's have
an equal, if not better reputation for good cables.

Arthur Harris said:

I plan to replace my gear and brake cables over the winter. For one thing, I don't want the gear
cables to start breaking up and jamming the STI levers.

Quoted message said:

I've noticed that you can buy Shimano replacement "cable sets" or you can buy generic cables and
housings

Quoted message said:

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff? Do the generic cables have the correct
"barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)? Are Campy cable ends different that
Shimano?

There is a difference but I don't know how much it matters for a road bicycle where shifting during
large steering angles is uncommon. You didn't say what sort of bicycle this is. In any case, STI
shift cable housing is deigned for constant length to not affect shift accuracy when it bends while
steering sharply to either side.

draco.acs.uci.edu8f.2.htmlOpen ↗

You'll have to decide what is important in your use. My road bicycle doesn't need that feature. Road
bicycles ride pretty much straight ahead most of the time and seldom need to shift when crossed up.

Jobst Brandt [email hidden]

Quoted message said:

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff?

i think there are two reasons:

1. the [high end] genuine article has small o-ring seals in the end ferrules which stop the gradual
ingress of dirt. that may not be a big deal in a dry-weather road bike, but in the wet and in the
mud, that stuff builds up and over time can make the shifting stiff and imprecise.

2. high end shimano inner cable has been die drawn to make the exterior surface smother on each of
the exterior strands - a clearly visible difference if you hold campy & dura-ace cable side by
side. that makes shifting just a little smoother, fwiw.

jb

Arthur Harris said:

I plan to replace my gear and brake cables over the winter. For one thing, I don't want the gear
cables to start breaking up and jamming the STI levers.

They don't tend to jam the levers. They tend to break at the ends of the sheath.

Quoted message said:

I've noticed that you can buy Shimano replacement "cable sets" or you can buy generic cables and
housings

Generally speaking, you can get several cable-lives out of a set of housings (sheaths). Why do you
think you need to replace them? Cables themselves are about a buck apiece.

Quoted message said:

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff?

If you own stock in Shimano, yes. Otherwise, no.

Quoted message said:

Do the generic cables have the correct "barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)?
Are Campy cable ends different that Shimano?

There is supposedly a slight difference between Campy and Shimano. The problem, if real, is supposed
to show up on Campy levers, not Shimano. But I use Campy levers, and have not had any problems with
generic cables.

The only thing to be careful about is to be sure that the sheaths you use for the shifter cables are
meant for those, not brake cables. Also, of course, use brake cable for brakes, shifter cable for
shifters. There are differences there, but that is pretty obvious.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | I don't believe you, you've got the whole damn thing all wrong. _`\(,_ | He's not the kind
you have to wind-up on Sundays. --Ian (_)/ (_) | Anderson

If you don't get the Shimano stainless cables, make sure that you get stainless or teflon coated
aftermarket ones. (from Quality). Your shop should have them in bulk in the shop area. I've never
measured them, but I've heard stories ( and you know that stories are always true), that the head on
Campy cables are slightly smaller than Shimano heads, and that Shimano heads might get jamed in
Campy ergolevers. I've also heard ( again, more stories), that Campy cables are just a little
thicker, and that Shimano cables don't last as long as Campy ones do. Again, I don't know if any of
these stories are totally true, or even partly true. Bill

David L. Johnson said:

They don't tend to jam the levers. They tend to break at the ends of the sheath.

I'm just going by what I've read here on rbt. Some folks have had cable strands break off and mess
up the STI mechanism. Back in the friction days, I used Campy DT shifters with Campy der cable, and
strands would start breaking near the shifter (presumably from repeated flexing) after a couple of
years. I would expect the same from brifters, although not easily visible.

Quoted message said:

Generally speaking, you can get several cable-lives out of a set of housings (sheaths). Why do you
think you need to replace them? Cables themselves are about a buck apiece.

Haven't had any problems yet; just looking to do some preventive maintence. Good point about getting
more use out of the housings than the cables. I've got some spare SIS housing anyway, but was more
concerned with inner wire compatibility.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Do the generic cables have the correct "barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)?
Are Campy cable ends different that Shimano?

There is supposedly a slight difference between Campy and Shimano. The problem, if real, is
supposed to show up on Campy levers, not Shimano. But I use Campy levers, and have not had any
problems with generic cables.

OK, that's what I was really looking for. I remember seeing something about Campy and Shimano cable
heads being different, and wasn't sure if the generic stuff was compatible with both. Sounds like
there's no need to worry. The QBP inner cables are stainless and die drawn, so I think that's the
way to go.

Quoted message said:

The only thing to be careful about is to be sure that the sheaths you use for the shifter cables
are meant for those, not brake cables. Also, of course, use brake cable for brakes, shifter cable
for shifters. There are differences there, but that is pretty obvious.

Understood. Thanks for the info.

Art Harris

Jobst Brandt wrote:

Art Harris said:

Quoted message said:

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff? Do the generic cables have the correct
"barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)? Are Campy cable ends different that
Shimano?

There is a difference but I don't know how much it matters for a road bicycle where shifting
during large steering angles is uncommon. You didn't say what sort of bicycle this is. In any
case, STI shift cable housing is designed for constant length to not affect shift accuracy when it
bends while steering sharply to either side.

My bikes are 1980's vintage lugged-steel road bikes, and your point about large steering angles
being uncommon is well taken. I think I may have used the wrong terminology. I was really asking
about the size of the cable head that seats in the shifter. Apparently, the Shimano heads are
slightly larger. But according to some of the other replies, the the generic cables work well with
either brand.

Art Harris

ggg-<< As the price difference is so small, I'd buy the Shimano ones. Then you'll know the inners
won't stretch and the outers won't compress (which is what messes up shifting). >><BR><BR>

Right....

Get a good generic inner and 5mm shift housing, not the crappy 4mm shimano stuff.

Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535 vecchios.comvecchios.comOpen ↗ "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

"Arthur Harris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

I plan to replace my gear and brake cables over the winter. For one thing, I don't want the gear
cables to start breaking up and jamming the STI levers.

I've noticed that you can buy Shimano replacement "cable sets" or you can buy generic cables and
housings

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff? Do the generic cables have the correct
"barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)? Are Campy cable ends different that
Shimano?

Try Oshman's if you have one near you. I bought Shimano cables/housing there at a price much
cheaper than LBS.

<< Get a good generic inner and 5mm shift housing, not the crappy 4mm shimano stuff.

Peter Chisholm >>

As usual, this fellow knows what he is talking about, and gives useful advice. I don't know why
Shimano specs 4mm shift housing. 5mm shift housing flexes less and provides less internal friction,
for crisper shifts and comes with metal ferrules which

Arthur Harris said:

I plan to replace my gear and brake cables over the winter. For one thing, I don't want the gear
cables to start breaking up and jamming the STI levers.

I've noticed that you can buy Shimano replacement "cable sets" or you can buy generic cables and
housings

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff? Do the generic cables have the correct
"barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)? Are Campy cable ends different that
Shimano?

Only cables I've used that were noticably superior to anything else are the Gore Ride-ons. A tad
pricey and slightly more work to set-up but they give crisp shifting (and braking), don't need
maintenance (completely sealed) and last almost indefinitely (cheaper in the long run). Works great
on Campy and Shimano.

Arthur Harris said:

I plan to replace my gear and brake cables over the winter. For one thing, I don't want the gear
cables to start breaking up and jamming the STI levers.

I've noticed that you can buy Shimano replacement "cable sets" or you can buy generic cables and
housings

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff? Do the generic cables have the correct
"barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)? Are Campy cable ends different that
Shimano?

Generic are generally preferred _if_ you get the proper spec. (Shimano and Campagnolo subcontract
these items, so your "offbrand" is often made by the guy who makes the originals!) We prefer
standard 5mm systems to the skinny 4mm stuff. At least don't try to run the thicker wires in the
smaller casing.

Yes, Campagnolo-format cable heads are slightly smaller than Shimano-type. It's good practice to
slip the head of the cable backwards into its seat before installing a wire. If it's tight at all,
stop and sand or file the head smaller because they are a [censored] to remove later otherwise.
Campagnolo casing is sized between the two Shimano formats.

New Shimano sets are supplied with black nylon ferrules. On some other planet these might make
sense. We toss them.

Generally buying a complete cable set (even a "generic" such as CC Cable or Jaguar), while slightly
more expensive, ensures that everything fits together well. The wide assortment of wire and casing
dimensions and the various ferrule dimensions have become confusing. While many combinations will
work acceptably, getting everything exactly correct really does enhance shift response and
durability.

Now is a good time to unscrew adjusters, clean the threads and oil them. Ditto for anchor bolts and
any other related hardware. Size the casing runs by holding the casing up to your bike rather than
copying the last guy's lengths. Aim for gentle economic curves which yet allow full handlebar swing.

Lastly, oil the wires where they will pass inside casing, especially where instructions say "no
lube needed"

--
Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971

A Muzi said:

We prefer standard 5mm systems to the skinny 4mm stuff. At least don't try to run the thicker
wires in the smaller casing.

What is the range of der cable thickness? The ones I've seen are 1.1 or 1.2
mm. I assume those would be OK in either a 4 or 5 mm housing.

Thanks for all the other helpful hints. I'm going to add your post to my "best of rbt" Word file.

Art Harris

<< metal ferrules which... >>

...which fit into the shifter/cable stops more securely than the cheezy plastic 4mm ferrules. 5mm
shift housing is also available in different colors if you want your shift and brake cable housings
to match your bike.

Just fresh to hand in the December 2003 issue of Tour Magazine (Europe's #1 Race Bike Magazine from
their front cover) there's a test of shift cables (not brake). As usual their tests are very
detailed and scientific, but cutting to the chase they say:

BBB Speedline: Recommended Campagnolo Record: Recommended Campagnolo Centaur: Recommended Gore
Ultralight: Limited Recommended Core Ride On: Recommended Jagwire Hyper: Limited Recommended Jagwire
Universal: Highly Recommended Nokon: Recommended Point IFSP: Limited Recommended Shimano XTR:
Recommended Shimano Dura Ace: Highly Recommended Shimano Standard: Not Recommended

The test was: A semi-automatic pnumatic machine that pulled all 14 cables in parallel around two
180deg bends, one tight, one wide. Each cycle was 1500 dry shifts and 800 wet shifts followed by
addition of sand quarz. There were 4 cycles that were measured. Then sand was blasted at the cables
for the following 2000 dry and 800 wet shifts. The friction in each cable was measured separately
following each cycle, to give five measurement points. The test was repeated for three examples of
each cable type and average results were provided.

Please note these are not my personal opinions. They are directly quoted from pages 42 & 43 of
above magazine.

Good Luck.

"Arthur Harris" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
"]news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I plan to replace my gear and brake cables over the winter. For one thing,

I

Quoted message said:

don't want the gear cables to start breaking up and jamming the STI

levers.

Quoted message said:

I've noticed that you can buy Shimano replacement "cable sets" or you can buy generic cables and
housings

Is there a good reason to buy the genuine Shimano stuff? Do the generic cables have the correct
"barrel" ends to fit STI levers (both brake and shifter)? Are Campy cable ends different that
Shimano?

Thanks, Art Harris