Transmition slips....

Corsaire said:

when going uphill. As I push the pedal forward it feels as if something gives and slips forward...
CLUNK!....like something didn't grab or so.,... What is it??? I checked the teeth on the
transmition looks fine, the chain doesn't look worn out - is it the chain or the tooth on the gear
that is wearing out???? Please help...it didn't do it before this last weekend! Corsaire 🙁

Does it happen in only one or two gears, or in several gears? How old is the bike, how old is the
chain, and how much do you ride?

My guess is you need a new cassette and a new chain.

Corsaire said:

when going uphill. As I push the pedal forward it feels as if something gives and slips forward...
CLUNK!....like something didn't grab or so.,... What is it??? I checked the teeth on the
transmition looks fine, the chain doesn't look worn out - is it the chain or the tooth on the gear
that is wearing out???? Please help...it didn't do it before this last weekend! Corsaire 🙁

Assuming this is a derailleur type system (as opposed to internal hub gear like Sturmey Archer), the
problem is either a slipping chain due to excess wear on the rear gears, front chainrings, or chain.
OR the pawls in your freewheel/freehub are not engaging.

Another possibility is that you are using a new chain on a worn cassette.

To check the chain, measure the length of 12 complete links. When new, that will measure exactly 12
inches. If it has elongated to 12-1/16 inches or more, the chain needs replacing.

Worn gears will have pointy tips, and a hook shape where the chain bears on them.

Art Harris

Corsaire <[email hidden]> wrote:
: when going uphill. As I push the pedal forward it feels as if something gives and slips forward...
: CLUNK!....like something didn't grab or so.,... What is it??? I checked the teeth on the
: transmition looks fine, the chain doesn't look worn out - is it the chain or the tooth on the gear
: that is wearing out???? Please help...it didn't do it before this last weekend! Corsaire 🙁

Could be your cassette lock ring is loose.

--------------------------------
Bob Masse' [email hidden]
--------------------------------

"Corsaire" <[email hidden]> wrote in message "]news:[email hidden]

Quoted message said:

when going uphill. As I push the pedal forward it feels as if something gives and slips forward...
CLUNK!....like something didn't grab or so.,... What is it??? I checked the teeth on the
transmition looks fine, the chain doesn't look worn out - is it the chain or the tooth on the gear
that is wearing out???? Please help...it didn't do it before this last weekend! Corsaire 🙁

Could also be that the bike needs cleaning. I had chain skipping with a new chain and cassette after
a long (dirty) trip. Went away completely after I cleaned and lubed the chain, adjusted the
derailer, and cleaned out the derailer cable where it goes under the BB shell..

Corsaire <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:<[email hidden]>...

Quoted message said:

when going uphill. As I push the pedal forward it feels as if something gives and slips forward...
CLUNK!....like something didn't grab or so.,... What is it??? I checked the teeth on the
transmition looks fine, the chain doesn't look worn out - is it the chain or the tooth on the gear
that is wearing out???? Please help...it didn't do it before this last weekend! Corsaire 🙁

Is this a freewheel or cassette? If freewheel, you might try swapping on an old one from your LBS's
junk bin. This year, I've gone through two of them--it's as though the ratcheting mechanism is just
so worn that it slips under high torque.

Harris said:

To check the chain, measure the length of 12 complete links. When new, that will measure exactly
12 inches. If it has elongated to 12-1/16 inches or more, the chain needs replacing.

I've read advice like this in a couple of bike maintenance books and/or bike magazines. I thought
that a stretched chain can cause slippage. However, my 12+ year old Suntour (remember them?) chain
measures 11 1/4" over eleven links. (I didn't feel like removing the chain to measure a twelfth
link.) That is well stretched by any standard that I've seen, including the one above.

I have gotten the occasional "clunk" from the rear hub area, accompanied by about 1/4 of a rotation
at the pedals, but that's only three times a year or so.

So I've gotta ask, what's the point of being concerned with a stretched chain, in this or in any
situation?

--
__/_ _ _ _) /(- \/(- _) .
-----------------------------------------------------------

Steve Sanfratello said:

Harris said:

To check the chain, measure the length of 12 complete links. When new, that will measure exactly
12 inches. If it has elongated to 12-1/16 inches or more, the chain needs replacing.

I've read advice like this in a couple of bike maintenance books and/or bike magazines. I thought
that a stretched chain can cause slippage. However, my 12+ year old Suntour (remember them?) chain
measures 11 1/4" over eleven links. (I didn't feel like removing the chain to measure a twelfth
link.) That is well stretched by any standard that I've seen, including the one above.

I have gotten the occasional "clunk" from the rear hub area, accompanied by about 1/4 of a rotation
at the pedals, but that's only three times a year or so.

So I've gotta ask, what's the point of being concerned with a stretched chain, in this or in any
situation?

A "stretched", or more accurately "worn" chain where the pins are further apart than the specified
1/2" will seem to work fairly well with the currenct chainrings and cassette since they will wear
to match the chain spacing. However, when you replace your chain with a shiny new one, the
cassette and chainrings (more expensive than the chain no doubt) will be worn too much and will
not work smoothly.

Its a matter of preventive maintenance. Replace the chain every once in a while and extend the life
of the cassette and chainrings greatly.

In article <[email hidden]>, nevets72 @nospamingme.linuxmail.org says...

Quoted message said:

Harris said:

To check the chain, measure the length of 12 complete links. When new, that will measure exactly
12 inches. If it has elongated to 12-1/16 inches or more, the chain needs replacing.

I've read advice like this in a couple of bike maintenance books and/or bike magazines. I thought
that a stretched chain can cause slippage. However, my 12+ year old Suntour (remember them?) chain
measures 11 1/4" over eleven links. (I didn't feel like removing the chain to measure a twelfth
link.) That is well stretched by any standard that I've seen, including the one above.

I have gotten the occasional "clunk" from the rear hub area, accompanied by about 1/4 of a
rotation at the pedals, but that's only three times a year or so.

So I've gotta ask, what's the point of being concerned with a stretched chain, in this or in any
situation?

If you now go back and replace either the cluster or the chain, you will have to do the other as
well. That's the only issue. Right now, your cluster and chain fit each other, because the cluster
has worn to fit the chain. A new one of either one will not match up with the old one of the other.

--
Dave Kerber Fight spam: remove the ns_ from the return address before replying!

REAL programmers write self-modifying code.