My primary bike is an 11 year old Corima that has internal cable routing for the shifting. The shifting has gotten absolutely horrible. Seemingly whenever there could be any moisture present, the effort needed to move the right hand upshift paddle becomes incredibly hard. This has been going on all year. Until very recently, the downshifts were not exactly crisp, but certainly did not reflect an equivalent binding or force to allow the derailleur to move. Since Sunday, I can click down through the gears and the cable end will stick out the front of the "brifter". It will then gradually, over a period of minutes, shift down to the selected cog.
For the longest time I used the Gore cables, but you can't find them any more. I have sprayed Tri-flow into the internal housing to aid in the slipperiness and also blown air through the housing to clean out any when I've changed the actual cable wire. I also use the teflon coated Jagwire. I've changed/fiddled with it at least three times already this year with only temporary, modest improvement.
I can understand if the Tri-flow gradually caused the ID of the housing to swell, but the binding is inconsistent.
My primary bike is an 11 year old Corima that has internal cable routing for the shifting. The shifting has gotten absolutely horrible. Seemingly whenever there could be any moisture present, the effort needed to move the right hand upshift paddle becomes incredibly hard. This has been going on all year. Until very recently, the downshifts were not exactly crisp, but certainly did not reflect an equivalent binding or force to allow the derailleur to move. Since Sunday, I can click down through the gears and the cable end will stick out the front of the "brifter". It will then gradually, over a period of minutes, shift down to the selected cog.
For the longest time I used the Gore cables, but you can't find them any more. I have sprayed Tri-flow into the internal housing to aid in the slipperiness and also blown air through the housing to clean out any when I've changed the actual cable wire. I also use the teflon coated Jagwire. I've changed/fiddled with it at least three times already this year with only temporary, modest improvement.
I can understand if the Tri-flow gradually caused the ID of the housing to swell, but the binding is inconsistent.
Thoughts, suggestions?
Your internal routing is the more common setup where you've got a normal full cable housing through the frame, either inside an internal sleeve tube or just through the frame tube, correct? If so, have you tried replacing the housing?
My primary bike is an 11 year old Corima that has internal cable routing for the shifting. The shifting has gotten absolutely horrible. Seemingly whenever there could be any moisture present, the effort needed to move the right hand upshift paddle becomes incredibly hard. This has been going on all year. Until very recently, the downshifts were not exactly crisp, but certainly did not reflect an equivalent binding or force to allow the derailleur to move. Since Sunday, I can click down through the gears and the cable end will stick out the front of the "brifter". It will then gradually, over a period of minutes, shift down to the selected cog.
For the longest time I used the Gore cables, but you can't find them any more. I have sprayed Tri-flow into the internal housing to aid in the slipperiness and also blown air through the housing to clean out any when I've changed the actual cable wire. I also use the teflon coated Jagwire. I've changed/fiddled with it at least three times already this year with only temporary, modest improvement.
I can understand if the Tri-flow gradually caused the ID of the housing to swell, but the binding is inconsistent.
New 5mm gear casing with new wires (Campagnolo are nice, others can be good) wiped with oil on installation will shift crisply for a good long while. Use metal casing caps of the appropriate dimension - they are _not_ all the same!
4mm casing, plastic casing end caps, corrosion all degrade shift response.
Your TriFlow is rinsing off whatever lubrication was there, making it rust faster. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
On Aug 8, 10:57 am, "Carl Sundquist" <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Thoughts, suggestions?
Your internal routing is the more common setup where you've got a normal full cable housing through the frame, either inside an internal sleeve tube or just through the frame tube, correct? If so, have you tried replacing the housing?
I tip for the OP, when you do this don't pull the old outer cable out of the tube, use strong fishing line to tie the old and new outers cables together then pull the new cable through as you pull the old cable out.
Cheers
Joel
-- Human Powered Cycles | High quality servicing and repairs [email hidden] | Affordable second hand bikes (03) 9029 6504 | Bicycle reuse centre www.humanpowered.com.au | Mechanical and on-road training and instruction
On Aug 8, 10:57 am, "Carl Sundquist" <[email hidden]> wrote:
Quoted message said:
Quoted message said:
Thoughts, suggestions?
Your internal routing is the more common setup where you've got a normal full cable housing through the frame, either inside an internal sleeve tube or just through the frame tube, correct? If so, have you tried replacing the housing?
I tip for the OP, when you do this don't pull the old outer cable out of the tube, use strong fishing line to tie the old and new outers cables together then pull the new cable through as you pull the old cable out.
Even easier is to just use a "guide tube" that fits inside the holes and is longer than their span.
