Rolling Resitance chart needed to buy new tyres

Do you hate cycling that much to do this to be finished 2 minutes faster?

here's a couple

http://www.biketechreview.com/tires/images/AFM_tire_testing_rev4.pdf

http://ddata.over-blog.com/xxxyyy/0/02/72/10/clincher-specs.html
related article: http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-1503651.html

The only Continental I've had that felt vaguely fast was a Supersonic, but they wear so quickly they're not worth it. I hate the Attack/Force, and the GP3000 are just a rock hard training tyre. I haven't used a GP4000.

I reckon Michelin Pro Races are the best all round tyre for speed and reasonable wear

In article <[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

Hello,
I want to buy some new tyres based on weight, and rolling resitance.
Is there a web site that has this information, reviwing all major
brands?
Michelin, and Continental??

I am currently running cheap continentals, but want to change based on
resitance, i have not been able to find a chart on this??

Bear in mind that Conti has come out with GP4000S as well as GP4000 with
chili compound. This new compound supposedly has fixed the rolling
resistance issue with the old GP4000.
--

On Thu, 02 Aug 2007 20:33:47 -0700, [email hidden] wrote:

No, it's not. I've never seen one, and have no trouble buying tyres.

Michael Warner said:

On Thu, 02 Aug 2007 20:33:47 -0700, [email hidden] wrote:

No, it's not. I've never seen one, and have no trouble buying tyres.

Yeah yeah, you're one of those wise guys that does it with Pantone
swatches. To each his own. I prefer to flavor match, but it's hard to
get a lick in at some shops.

You probably will not find current models tested in any meaningful
way. However, if you peruse the RR tests, you will notice some trends.
Bald tires generally have lower rolling resistance and for a similar
reason, so do used tires.

So if this is really important to you (you do long competitive time
trials), pick your tire based on these factors and you are more likely
to get low RR.

1. No tread
2. Thin rubber
3. Thin casing
4. High thread count casing
5. Tubeless system
6. Latex tubes

None of that except the first item is guaranteed, design and materials
is very important as well (such as the bias of the casing). You can
also try to see if there is a trend in the RR tests for a certain
manufacturer to do well - I haven't been able to see that. And
finally, you can pick a few likely candidates and perform your own
roll down tests (much more accurate in the real world than the typical
small diameter drum testing usual in most RR tests).

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

You probably will not find current models tested in any meaningful
way. However, if you peruse the RR tests, you will notice some trends.
Bald tires generally have lower rolling resistance and for a similar
reason, so do used tires.

So if this is really important to you (you do long competitive time
trials), pick your tire based on these factors and you are more likely
to get low RR.

1. No tread
2. Thin rubber
3. Thin casing
4. High thread count casing
5. Tubeless system
6. Latex tubes

None of that except the first item is guaranteed, design and materials
is very important as well (such as the bias of the casing). You can
also try to see if there is a trend in the RR tests for a certain
manufacturer to do well - I haven't been able to see that. And
finally, you can pick a few likely candidates and perform your own
roll down tests (much more accurate in the real world than the typical
small diameter drum testing usual in most RR tests).

This may be true in part. I really like the Avocet Fasgrip 700x25 *slick*
tires. As stated, there is no tread on that tire. Avocet use to have a
Fasgrip "City" tire in 26x1.25 (32mm wide). However, I've been told that
Avocet has since discontinued all of its 26" tires. What to do?

I found that Performance/Nashbar sells a house-brand tire, made in Taiwan in
26x1.25. Performance calls its the City slick tire (or something like it).
Its a true slick tire that provides 80-90% of the performance of the Avocet
at 1/3 to 1/4 the price. A real bargain!

bfd said:

This may be true in part. I really like the Avocet Fasgrip 700x25 *slick*
tires. As stated, there is no tread on that tire. Avocet use to have a
Fasgrip "City" tire in 26x1.25 (32mm wide). However, I've been told that
Avocet has since discontinued all of its 26" tires. What to do?

I found that Performance/Nashbar sells a house-brand tire, made in Taiwan in
26x1.25. Performance calls its the City slick tire (or something like it).
Its a true slick tire that provides 80-90% of the performance of the Avocet
at 1/3 to 1/4 the price. A real bargain!

That's a sweet tire for the price. Put some on a mtb I sold last year.
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=15304&subcategory_ID=5425

$7 and 355g!

Quoted message said:

So if this is really important to you (you do long competitive time
trials), pick your tire based on these factors and you are more likely
to get low RR.

1. No tread
2. Thin rubber
3. Thin casing
4. High thread count casing
5. Tubeless system
6. Latex tubes

Are you sure about tubeless system?

--
JT
****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************

"landotter" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

bfd said:

This may be true in part. I really like the Avocet Fasgrip 700x25 *slick*
tires. As stated, there is no tread on that tire. Avocet use to have a
Fasgrip "City" tire in 26x1.25 (32mm wide). However, I've been told that
Avocet has since discontinued all of its 26" tires. What to do?

I found that Performance/Nashbar sells a house-brand tire, made in Taiwan
in
26x1.25. Performance calls its the City slick tire (or something like
it).
Its a true slick tire that provides 80-90% of the performance of the
Avocet
at 1/3 to 1/4 the price. A real bargain!

That's a sweet tire for the price. Put some on a mtb I sold last year.
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=15304&subcategory_ID=5425

$7 and 355g!

Yes, that's a bargain! The Nashbar version is currently $13:
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=6000121&subcategory=60001249&brand=&sku=7174&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=Shop%20by%20Subcat%3A%2026x1%2E0%20to%2026x1%2E75

However, you still need to compare as sometimes they sale price flips and
the Nashbar one is cheaper. Good Luck!

Bob Palermo said:

I don't like the GP3000 either. I got one as a rear replacement to the
Bontrager race X-lites that came on my bike. From the first ride, they felt
slower. Later I learned that their rolling resistance was not well rated.

yep, 8 more watts per wheel to get the same speed......8 watts....

In article
<[email hidden]>,
"Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"

Quoted message said:

Bob Palermo said:

I don't like the GP3000 either. I got one as a rear replacement to the
Bontrager race X-lites that came on my bike. From the first ride, they felt
slower. Later I learned that their rolling resistance was not well rated.

yep, 8 more watts per wheel to get the same speed......8 watts....

What power does a below average bicyclist put out?
Sounds like 8 watts is a fraction worth preserving. I
average 20 km/hr on hill rides, 25 km/hr on `flat'
rides. That is my category. I use slick tires and know
the difference.

--
Michael Press

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden]>,
"Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"

Quoted message said:

Bob Palermo said:

I don't like the GP3000 either. I got one as a rear replacement to the
Bontrager race X-lites that came on my bike. From the first ride, they felt
slower. Later I learned that their rolling resistance was not well rated.

yep, 8 more watts per wheel to get the same speed......8 watts....

What power does a below average bicyclist put out?
Sounds like 8 watts is a fraction worth preserving. I
average 20 km/hr on hill rides, 25 km/hr on `flat'
rides. That is my category. I use slick tires and know
the difference.

For an untrained cyclist pootling along, or someone who has "bonked", 8
watts would be about 10% of their power output.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

landotter said:

Yeah yeah, you're one of those wise guys that does it with Pantone
swatches. To each his own. I prefer to flavor match, but it's hard to
get a lick in at some shops.

Given what shops charge for decent tyres, I'm surprised they don't
charge us to merely touch them :-)

531Aussie said:

I reckon Michelin Pro Races are the best all round tyre for speed and
reasonable wear

I've used them for a while and been happy, but now I've got a pair of
Rubino Pros on (the new "slick" variety). They're cheaper, don't feel any
slower, and so far appear tougher. Will have to wait and see about wear,
though.

My last batch of Pro Races were four yellow ones that a mate sold me
for AUD$35 all up because they didn't match his new bike's paint job! If
only more riders were so rich and fashion-conscious :-)

Kurd said:

Do you hate cycling that much to do this to be finished 2 minutes faster?

no. i just dont like loosing, i would rather be a winner. If no one
cared about tyres they wouldnt be $100 for 1 they would be $15. Its
just rubber, but tyres are imporant enough in Prand Prix races so they
must have an effect considering my little legs have to move my bike.

In article <[email hidden]>,

Quoted message said:

On Sun, 05 Aug 2007 16:11:35 -0000, "Qui si parla

Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com said:

Bob Palermo said:

I don't like the GP3000 either. I got one as a rear replacement to the
Bontrager race X-lites that came on my bike. From the first ride, they felt
slower. Later I learned that their rolling resistance was not well rated.

yep, 8 more watts per wheel to get the same speed......8 watts....

Dear Peter,

It should be explained that you are presumably referring to this
rolling resistance test:

http://biketechreview.com/tires/images/AFM_tire_testing_rev6.pdf

Some readers will skip the details of the testing at the top and
imagine that they will lose 8 watts per wheel. Soon, they may begin to
notice huge speed differences in their memories.

But the RR power figures are for pedalling a 54x13 at 98 rpm and ~51
km/h on the flat, about 31.6 mph. (See the top of that pdf.)

Those bored by calculations can simply remember that these RR
differences produce predicted speed changes of less than 0.5 mph for
both grandmothers at 100 watts on the hoods and Tour de France winners
at over 500 watts on the drops.

If you are out for social rides the difference is who cares what...

But if you are doing (e.g.) time trials the difference is huge...

I lost three TT's early this year, all in the 10-20 km range by times of
between 1 and 2 minutes over people I should have been beating. Then
swapped to a less aero wheelset (Bontrager Aero from Zipp 404) but with
a faster tire (Bontrager X-Lite Pro from Tufo S3 Pro). The difference
was amazing.

In two TT's on the same course one week apart, I went from 1:20 behind
a friend of mine, to 20 seconds ahead. Only difference was the wheelset.
(I'm those times as an example, overall I went from back of pack to
2nd overall etc...)

So IFF you are racing, then yes the numbers make a difference.

One thing to remember though, sometimes the faster tires are usually not
as robust or puncture proof... so don't plan on doing too much training
on them. Save them for race day.

Michael Warner said:

landotter said:

Yeah yeah, you're one of those wise guys that does it with Pantone
swatches. To each his own. I prefer to flavor match, but it's hard to
get a lick in at some shops.

Given what shops charge for decent tyres, I'm surprised they don't
charge us to merely touch them :-)

Unless you are going to carry a spare tire, most riders can get by
with lots less expensive tires. GP3000/4000 were designed as sticky
racing type tires. A wire Ultra Sport works just fine for the vast
majority of riders but alas, many lose way too many coffee shop points
on their Sunday ride to use them.

Tom \'Johnny Sunset\' Sherman said:

Michael Press said:

In article
<[email hidden]>,
"Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"
<[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

On Aug 3, 7:10 pm, "Bob Palermo" <[email hidden]> wrote:
> I don't like the GP3000 either. I got one as a rear replacement to the
> Bontrager race X-lites that came on my bike. From the first ride, they felt
> slower. Later I learned that their rolling resistance was not well rated.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

yep, 8 more watts per wheel to get the same speed......8 watts....

Quoted message said:

What power does a below average bicyclist put out?
Sounds like 8 watts is a fraction worth preserving. I
average 20 km/hr on hill rides, 25 km/hr on `flat'
rides. That is my category. I use slick tires and know
the difference.

For an untrained cyclist pootling along, or someone who has "bonked", 8
watts would be about 10% of their power output.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

10% sounds like a lot. I tend to buy pretty cheap tires. Never more
than $20.00 bucks if I splurge, but usually around 10.00 to 15.00
bucks. I usually try to get something good for my needs. By that I
mean a tire that of 23-25C width, between 250 and 300 grams weight and
Kevlar beads.

My riding buddies usually buy 40 to 50 dollar tires. they have lighter
bikes and fancier wheels. I doubt that the tires give them a 10%
advantage over my tires. otherwise, they could kick my butt. Or, If I
got fancier tires, I would kick their butts, but I doubt it too. Also,
the expensive tires seem wya to light for my weight. 200 to 220 grams
seem too light to get any longevity.

I ride cheap tires cause I have a hard time spending 40.00 bucks on a
piece of rubber for my bike. Also, and most importantly, because i
realize that it doesn't really make that much difference in
performance.

Recently I bought some cheap wheels on ebay. They have Alex rims, XX
hubs, 36 14g spokes, tubes and Michelin dynamic tires. I paid 90 bucks
for this deal. I bought them cause my mavic reflex rim cracked at the
eyelets and when I looked for a rim, most of them were $69.99. So, I
bought a wheelset instead. I ended up buying a dt rim for 70 bucks too
and replaced the old rim. I was sure that when I put those alex wheels
on my bike, I would become anchored to the ground. So far, I've only
put the front wheel on my bike and it is a pig to the hand. Yet, I
haven't noticed much difference while riding and I am not getting
dropped on the weekend hammer sessions. My conclusion is that for
purposes other than serious racing I will not feel much difference.

Andres