Adding a rivet

Paulo Matos said:

Hi all,

I have a broken chain (one of the links got bent and the chain
opened up) and as it was suggested to me in other topic I bought a
chain rivet extractor and extracted the bended link, however, now I'm
having serious difficulties in joining the two ends of the string
because the rivet is obviously very hard to insert on the link hole
and I can't see how the rivet extractor might help me in putting it
in. Any suggestions? Pictures? Howtos?

What make is the chain, if it is shimano then you need
special rivets made by them (if you want to put a rivet in).

Personelly I never put rivets back in once they come out,
I always replace the link with a pair of SRAM power links.
(available at all good cycle shops).

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?Cat=cycle&ProdID=5300003847&N=SRAM%20Spare%20Connecting%20Pin
http://preview.tinyurl.com/2q7g7x

Paulo Matos said:

Hi all,

I have a broken chain (one of the links got bended and the chain
opened up) and as it was suggested to me in other topic I bought a
chain rivet extractor and extracted the bended link, however, now I'm
having serious difficulties in joining the two ends of the string
because the rivet is obviously very hard to insert on the link hole
and I can't see how the rivet extractor might help me in putting it
in. Any suggestions? Pictures? Howtos?

If at all possible, use a Powerlink or similar.

However, it is possible to get the rivet back in by gently pinching it
into the correct position with the chain tool, holding the rivet in
place with a pair of pliers and then operating the chain tool to push
the rivet into the holes. The link thus made is not as strong as it
might be but it does work (i.e I've not broken it yet). I've had to do
this on a couple of occasion when I've flubbed shortening a chain for
a fixed-gear (where you can't use a Powerlink) and forced the pin all
the way out.

Regards,

-david

David Nutter said:

Paulo Matos said:

Hi all,

Quoted message said:

I have a broken chain (one of the links got bended and the chain
opened up) and as it was suggested to me in other topic I bought a
chain rivet extractor and extracted the bended link, however, now I'm
having serious difficulties in joining the two ends of the string
because the rivet is obviously very hard to insert on the link hole
and I can't see how the rivet extractor might help me in putting it
in. Any suggestions? Pictures? Howtos?

If at all possible, use a Powerlink or similar.

However, it is possible to get the rivet back in by gently pinching it
into the correct position with the chain tool, holding the rivet in
place with a pair of pliers and then operating the chain tool to push
the rivet into the holes. The link thus made is not as strong as it
might be but it does work (i.e I've not broken it yet). I've had to do
this on a couple of occasion when I've flubbed shortening a chain for
a fixed-gear (where you can't use a Powerlink) and forced the pin all
the way out.

Regards,

-david

Thanks for the references, as a solution I just pushed a new rivet out
about 95%, joined the two pieces and with the rivet extractor I have
put it in again. :-)

Cheers,

Paulo Matos

David Nutter said:

However, it is possible to get the rivet back in by gently pinching it
into the correct position with the chain tool, holding the rivet in
place with a pair of pliers and then operating the chain tool to push
the rivet into the holes. The link thus made is not as strong as it
might be but it does work (i.e I've not broken it yet). I've had to do
this on a couple of occasion when I've flubbed shortening a chain for
a fixed-gear (where you can't use a Powerlink) and forced the pin all
the way out.

Why can't you use a powerlink on a fixie? I was planning on using one on
the project when I get round to completing it.

--
Don Whybrow

Sequi Bonum Non Time

"This is all very interesting, and I daresay you already see me
frothing at the mouth in a fit; but no, I am not; I am just
winking happy thoughts into a little tiddle cup." (Nabokov,
Lolita)

Don Whybrow said:

Why can't you use a powerlink on a fixie? I was planning on using one on
the project when I get round to completing it.

You can. My fixie chain has been joined by a powerlink for years
without problems

Tony

Don Whybrow said:

David Nutter said:

However, it is possible to get the rivet back in by gently pinching it
into the correct position with the chain tool, holding the rivet in
place with a pair of pliers and then operating the chain tool to push
the rivet into the holes. The link thus made is not as strong as it
might be but it does work (i.e I've not broken it yet). I've had to do
this on a couple of occasion when I've flubbed shortening a chain for
a fixed-gear (where you can't use a Powerlink) and forced the pin all
the way out.

Why can't you use a powerlink on a fixie? I was planning on using one on
the project when I get round to completing it.

On reflection my original post was perhaps a bit strong 🙂

Anyway, when I was putting the thing together, the LBS mechanic told me
to avoid it as they'd come undone on him when resisting the pedals and
he therefore didn't use them anymore. I took his advice, so I shall
rephrase the above to read "where I do not use a Powerlink".

However, said mechanic was a bit of a speed merchant so was probably
putting a fair bit more stress on the whole drivetrain than most
people. Seems that Tony Raven has been using Powerlinks for a while.
I'm not minded to try it though, YMMV.

Regards,

-david

Tony Raven said:

Don Whybrow said:

Why can't you use a powerlink on a fixie? I was planning on using one
on the project when I get round to completing it.

You can. My fixie chain has been joined by a powerlink for years
without problems

Though you can't if you're running a 1/8" chain (because the Powerlink
isn't available for that width).
But the SRAM PC-1 1/8" chain comes with a 'Snap Lock' connector - this
lets you join the chain without using a chain tool, but its not reusable
like a Powerlink.

--
Craig Wallace
http://craig.neogeo.org.uk
http://www.neogeo.org.uk

in message <[email hidden]>, Paulo

Matos (') said:

Hi all,

I have a broken chain (one of the links got bended and the chain
opened up) and as it was suggested to me in other topic I bought a
chain rivet extractor and extracted the bended link, however, now I'm
having serious difficulties in joining the two ends of the string
because the rivet is obviously very hard to insert on the link hole
and I can't see how the rivet extractor might help me in putting it
in. Any suggestions? Pictures? Howtos?

Didn't you get instructions with the chain tool?

Basically, nine and ten speed chains are different, because the pin
insertion pressures are very high, so either special tools (Campagnolo) or
special pins (Shimano) must be used. But for all other chains, the trick
is not to drive the rivet right out - as you say, once it's right out it's
very nearly impossible to get it back in, so you drive it out until it is
just holding in one plate.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; killing [afghan|iraqi] civilians is not 'justice'

On Wed, 25 Jul 2007 23:33:03 +0100, Simon Brooke
<[email hidden]> wrote:

<snip chain>

Quoted message said:

Didn't you get instructions with the chain tool?

Basically, nine and ten speed chains are different, because the pin
insertion pressures are very high, so either special tools (Campagnolo) or
special pins (Shimano) must be used. But for all other chains, the trick
is not to drive the rivet right out - as you say, once it's right out it's
very nearly impossible to get it back in, so you drive it out until it is
just holding in one plate.

The Park Tools lightweight chain tool is designed such that it _can't_
push the rivet all the way out in normal use. Very good ida for ham
fisted clots such as myself.

Tim

Quoting David Nutter <[email hidden]>:

Quoted message said:

might be but it does work (i.e I've not broken it yet). I've had to do
this on a couple of occasion when I've flubbed shortening a chain for
a fixed-gear (where you can't use a Powerlink)

Why not, JOOI?
--
David Damerell <[email hidden]> Distortion Field!
Today is Second Potmos, July.

David Nutter said:

I've had to do
this on a couple of occasion when I've flubbed shortening a chain for
a fixed-gear (where you can't use a Powerlink)

Oh yes I can! Indeed, there is one sat in my garage at this very moment...

hth,

T

Craig Wallace said:

Though you can't if you're running a 1/8" chain (because the Powerlink
isn't available for that width).

KMC 1/8" BMX chain comes complete with a very similar link to powerlink,
although not actually SRAM. It can be taken on and off with impunity.

hth,

T

Craig Wallace said:

Tony Raven said:

Don Whybrow said:

Why can't you use a powerlink on a fixie? I was planning on using one
on the project when I get round to completing it.

You can. My fixie chain has been joined by a powerlink for years
without problems

Though you can't if you're running a 1/8" chain (because the Powerlink
isn't available for that width).

A 3/32" chain will work just as well.

Tony

David Nutter said:

Quoted message said:

Why can't you use a powerlink on a fixie? I was planning on using one on
the project when I get round to completing it.

Anyway, when I was putting the thing together, the LBS mechanic told me
to avoid it as they'd come undone on him when resisting the pedals and
he therefore didn't use them anymore. I took his advice, so I shall
rephrase the above to read "where I do not use a Powerlink".

I have no evidence to back me up but I would wager that a rider could
put a similar strain on the chain when riding hard or uphill. I wish I
could remember enough maths to figure it out!

Quoted message said:

However, said mechanic was a bit of a speed merchant so was probably
putting a fair bit more stress on the whole drivetrain than most
people. Seems that Tony Raven has been using Powerlinks for a while.
I'm not minded to try it though, YMMV.

I've been using them on my fixer since I built it last year. It's done
several thousand miles now and never skipped a beat. I don't imagine
I'll ever rejoin a chain in the conventional manner again --
powerlinks are far superior.

Cheers,

Mark

Tony B said:

Craig Wallace said:

Though you can't if you're running a 1/8" chain (because the Powerlink
isn't available for that width).

KMC 1/8" BMX chain comes complete with a very similar link to powerlink,
although not actually SRAM. It can be taken on and off with impunity.

My last two 1/8th chains (an Izumi-V and a DID) both came with an end
link that used a nut and bolt rather than a rivet. On the first chain
I assumed it was for track use only and removed it. On the current
chain though I've decided to give it a go and put some loc-tite on.
Fingers crossed.

Duncan

Duncan Smith said:

Tony B said:

Craig Wallace said:

Though you can't if you're running a 1/8" chain (because the Powerlink
isn't available for that width).

KMC 1/8" BMX chain comes complete with a very similar link to powerlink,
although not actually SRAM. It can be taken on and off with impunity.

My last two 1/8th chains (an Izumi-V and a DID) both came with an end
link that used a nut and bolt rather than a rivet.

For my 1/8" setup, I use the sort of link based on a U-shaped plate-and-
two-rivets over which goes an 8-shaped sideplate. The whole is joined by
a long C-shaped flat thing resembling a circlip. They're cheap; perhaps
it's KMX who make them. The one piece of advice I received with it was
to put it in so that the circlip can't be pulled off via trouser hem
ineptness: specifically, inboard and/or with the open ends facing away
from the major direction of chain motion.

The circlip-like thingy seems very tight. Fingernails sometimes aren't
enough to get mucky ones off for cleaning. It's never borken in use,
but it does wear very visibly. Probably that's a good thing.

--
Andrew Chadwick

in message <[email hidden]>, Andrew Chadwick

(') said:

Duncan Smith said:

Tony B said:

Craig Wallace wrote:
> Though you can't if you're running a 1/8" chain (because the
> Powerlink isn't available for that width).

KMC 1/8" BMX chain comes complete with a very similar link to
powerlink, although not actually SRAM. It can be taken on and off with
impunity.

My last two 1/8th chains (an Izumi-V and a DID) both came with an end
link that used a nut and bolt rather than a rivet.

For my 1/8" setup, I use the sort of link based on a U-shaped plate-and-
two-rivets over which goes an 8-shaped sideplate. The whole is joined by
a long C-shaped flat thing resembling a circlip. They're cheap; perhaps
it's KMX who make them. The one piece of advice I received with it was
to put it in so that the circlip can't be pulled off via trouser hem
ineptness: specifically, inboard and/or with the open ends facing away
from the major direction of chain motion.

When I was a lad, and derailleurs were so rare as to be effectively unheard
of, that was how chains were joined.

--
[email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
Just as defying the law of gravity through building aircraft requires
careful design and a lot of effort, so too does defying laws of
economics. It seems to be a deeply ingrained aspect of humanity to
forever strive to improve things, so unquestioning acceptance of a
free market system seems to me to be unnatural. ;; Charles Bryant

In article <[email hidden]>, Andrew
Chadwick
[email hidden] says...
<snip description of traditional 3 speed chain master link>

Quoted message said:

The circlip-like thingy seems very tight. Fingernails sometimes aren't
enough to get mucky ones off for cleaning.

Stick a flat bladed screwdriver between the prongs, turn and twist.

Quoted message said:

It's never borken in use,
but it does wear very visibly. Probably that's a good thing.

Eh?

Rob Morley said:

In article <[email hidden]>, Andrew
Chadwick
[email hidden] says...
<snip description of traditional 3 speed chain master link>

Quoted message said:

The circlip-like thingy seems very tight. Fingernails sometimes aren't
enough to get mucky ones off for cleaning.

Stick a flat bladed screwdriver between the prongs, turn and twist.

Indeed. Keys, allen wrenches, or the flat edge of a folding chain tool
will also do the trick.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It's never borken in use,
but it does wear very visibly. Probably that's a good thing.

Eh?

A common enough typo of "broken", here used in reference to the part not
falling to bits in use.

(or)

The wear pattern chains are prone to is visible on the pins of the magic
link under discussion. Consult Sheldon Brown's site for representative
pictures[1]. The wear of the rest of the chain will be proportional to the
wear on the pins, though it's still better to measure the apparent
stretch of a chain when deciding if you should chuck it away and buy a
new one. Also, being able to see the wear encourages lazy people like me
to buy replacement magic links when chains wear out.

When cleaning, I like to take chains off and shake them around in a
wide-necked bottle half full of white spirit. This gets the things very
very clean indeed, and that's why I like master links.

[1] http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#stretch - no, that's a
regular link. But you see what I mean.

--
Andrew Chadwick