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Started by Bennedetto · · Last activity · 10 posts · 130 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
25 July 2007
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25 July 2007
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Bennedetto
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  1. Hey,

    So I'm still in the process of learning how to ride my uni, but I can
    feel that pretty soon I'll be ready to move away from my learning zone
    and on to bigger and better things.

    That's what this post is about, my next unicycle. Currently I am riding
    some POS 24" that I purchased at my LBS. It is fine for learning on,
    but I know that once I start doing anything other than just basic
    riding... it's going to fall apart on me.

    It's time for me to start looking at getting my first "real" unicycle,
    something that will last a while. I'm a big guy (6'4" and like...
    250lbs) and b*ke parts have a habit of enjoying a short life span when
    I use them. Basically, I want something tough and beefy. Weight really
    isn't an issue (I'm used to climbing hills on my downhill b*ke) but
    obviously the lighter the better.

    I am still not sure whether I am going to get a 20" or a 24"...
    probably a 20" as I think I will enjoy riding street more than riding
    muni, at least at first. One of my LBS carries Kris Holm unicycles, and
    currently they have both a 20 and a 24 in stock. So, one of my
    questions is, will a KH withstand the abuse that I will be putting on
    it? I realize that if I am smooth and controlled, it will do fine... I
    just have to -get- smooth and controlled first.

    I would really like to buy a KH if I can, as Kris is a Canadian, and I
    would like to support a fellow Canuck 😄

    So yeah, will a KH be able to handle abuse? or is there something else
    I should be looking at? (i.e. a surly or something)

    Thanks

    --
    Bennedetto

    I don't mind straight people as long as they act gay in public.
    - Dennis Rodman
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  2. A KH will be perfect for you, they're extremely strong, I think the only
    thing that could suffer from you weight is the rim, but they're cheap,
    like $40USD. Also, if you get a 24 and use if for MUni, I suggest a
    Surly Large Marge 24" rim, then you will rarely break anything.

    --
    kerosian

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  3. Yeah, I realize that parts will bend and break. I can deal with
    replacing rims... I just don't want a cracked frame, or bent cranks,
    etc.

    --
    Bennedetto

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    - Dennis Rodman
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  4. cranks aren't an issue (never heard of any breaking or bending, from
    people of your weight doing 10 foot drops, etc). I have only seen two
    cracked frames, and those are older 2005 ones that have been beat to
    all hell. Frame strength in a unicycle is not as important on a bike,
    because most forces are spread through the wheel. Welcome to the one
    wheeled brotherhood.

    --
    kerosian

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  5. kerosian said:

    cranks aren't an issue (never heard of any breaking or bending, from
    people of your weight doing 10 foot drops, etc). I have only seen two
    cracked frames, and those are older 2005 ones that have been beat to
    all hell. Frame strength in a unicycle is not as important on a bike,
    because most forces are spread through the wheel. Welcome to the one
    wheeled brotherhood.

    You meant to say frames not cranks right?

    If so I agree, frames very rarely break, even cheap ones, your wheelset
    and cranks are by far the most strength important component.

    --
    kington99

    Dave

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  6. ya, I meant frames, I'm tired for some reason, just one of those days. I
    doubt you'll break the cranks either, they're pretty beastly.

    --
    kerosian

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  7. Ok, another quick question.

    I'm still pretty new on the unicycle lingo, and as such have never
    heard of the term q-factor.

    Is it something I need to be worried about?

    Better yet, what is it?

    --
    Bennedetto

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  8. q-factor is (how I explain it) the distance between your feet on the
    pedals, less Q-factor, the closer your feet, the less of a bend in the
    cranks. Many bicycle cranks are farther apart and have more q-factor.
    KH cranks have 10mm Q-factor on each crank and 100mm on the hub (as
    with basically all unicycles) so you have 120mm spacing in between you
    feet. It helps so you don't hit you ankle on your crank. Some people
    like it, others don't. I think the KH cranks are just perfect for me.
    correct me if I'm wrong kington, I"m unsure.

    --
    kerosian

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  9. kerosian said:

    q-factor is (how I explain it) the distance between your feet on the
    pedals, less Q-factor, the closer your feet, the less of a bend in the
    cranks. Many bicycle cranks are farther apart and have more q-factor.
    KH cranks have 10mm Q-factor on each crank and 100mm on the hub (as
    with basically all unicycles) so you have 120mm spacing in between you
    feet. It helps so you don't hit you ankle on your crank. Some people
    like it, others don't. I think the KH cranks are just perfect for me.
    correct me if I'm wrong kington, I"m unsure.

    No you're pretty spot on, although I'm not sure about the exact
    measurements. Genreally a higher q-factor gives mroe control but is
    slower as it causes you to wobble. Conversley less q makes for a faster
    smoother ride. The q actually stands for 'quack', as in how much your
    feet point out like a duck.

    --
    kington99

    Dave

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  10. ok, I was right, there's a first time for everything I guess. :p

    --
    kerosian

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