Differences between Cranks?

Is there anybody that knows?

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littleman said:

I'm looking into building a new wheel and I'm confused on the difference
between cottered cranks, cotterless cranks, and splined cranks. I'm
into street so there's a little trial but not much. Which kind should I
go with? Thanks.

splined

order of strenght in best to least: splined, cotterless cottered
order in which made from oldest to newest : cottered, cotterless
splined

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gordito8me said:

it's like running across the highway at rush hour. Dangerous, stupid,
but not really that fun.

Unicaw89 said:

Koxx rapes Torker hard!

skianduniaddict said:

never give 4 teenagers a camera... they go crazy

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littleman said:

I'm looking into building a new wheel and I'm confused on the difference
between cottered cranks, cotterless cranks, and splined cranks. I'm
into street so there's a little trial but not much. Which kind should I
go with? Thanks.

IMO the best build wheel would be:

KH '07 rim or Koxx1 solid rim (stronger, but heavier)
Titanium spokes $40 vs. $15 for steel.
moment hub, w/ 125's

--
skilewis74

Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
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The main difference is cotterless has a square ended axle, for square
holed cranks. These uni's are light and less expensive. Splined uni's
are for fat guys or people hopping around and off things. They may cost
2 or 4 times $, and are sometimes heavier, but tougher. So how much do
you weigh, and are you making a jumping uni ?

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If you want a really light street uni (also much less$), just put a 2.25
bmx tire on a freestyle, just make sure it clears the frame and keep it
to flatland only or you will be replacing hubs and cranks regularly.

feel the light said:

...are you making a jumping uni ?

By his post, I would say yes.

littleman said:

I'm into street so there's a little trial but not much.

--
skilewis74

Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the
time do it along the way.
Parafrasing a pro skater when asked for advise to kids who wanted to
get much better and maybee turn pro one day.
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It is sometimes useful to remember that everything was the latest idea
once. People rode the Tour de France on cottered cranks, and later on
cotterless cranks. They are good enough for riding up an Alpine pass
as hard as it is humanly possible to pedal.

My first uni had cottered cranks and was never a problem despite the
fact that I rode it on rough tracks and down kerbs.

However, there is no doubt that cotterless cranks are neater, stronger,
more secure, and generally better all round than cottered cranks.

The question then is whether it is worth the extra cost and weight of
going for splined cranks. Splined cranks are simply a more
sophisticated form of cotterless cranks.

If you are very heavy and/or you are going to place sudden huge loads
on the cranks (e.g. lots of hopping and dropping) then splined cranks
will stand up to this better.

Otherwise, cotterless are perfectly good, even for quite tough riding.
Only one of my unicycles has a splined hub, yet I have ridden all of my
unicycles off road and on steep hills, had lots of UPDs, and never
damaged either a hub or a crank.

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skilewis74 said:

IMO the best build wheel would be:

KH '07 rim or Koxx1 solid rim (stronger, but heavier)
Titanium spokes $40 vs. $15 for steel.
moment hub, w/ 125's

Why 125s? I ride street and trials and ride with 137s. I can crankflip,
hick, 180flip and clear big sets fine and then when it comes to trials
you have greater controll with the extra length.

skilewis74 said:

If you want a really light street uni (also much less$), just put a 2.25
bmx tire on a freestyle, just make sure it clears the frame and keep it
to flatland only or you will be replacing hubs and cranks regularly.

Flatland is lame and boring to watch, maybe you dont break things as
much and you probly wont hurt your self as much/bad but it suks 😄 You
should buy the Kh moment hub, you will save money in the long run and
it will give you confedence in doing drops and stuff. Then get it with
125s or 137s (If you know your going to be doing trials get 137s)

Dont buy cottered or cotterless if you know you are going to be doing
drops, cotterless hubs seem to break realy easy which isnt nice and is
realy anoying or you end up bending there cranks. The KH moment hub
isnt that much more exspensive than like the cotterles UDC cromo hub
(suposidly the strongest cotterless hub) I think the cotterless hub is
about £30 and the monent hub is about £45 when you think how much more
the moment hub will take, its a bargin 🙂

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sp4rky-m4rky said:

Dont buy cottered or cotterless if you know you are going to be doing
drops, cotterless hubs seem to break realy easy which isnt nice and is
realy anoying or you end up bending there cranks. The KH moment hub
isnt that much more exspensive than like the cotterles UDC cromo hub
(suposidly the strongest cotterless hub) I think the cotterless hub is
about £30 and the monent hub is about £45 when you think how much more
the moment hub will take, its a bargin 🙂

the hubs arent much more, but the cranks are. 🙂

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brendan said:

the hubs arent much more, but the cranks are. 🙂

so true

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With the combination of the qu-ax isis freestyle cranks, the moment or
qu-ax ISIS splined hubs, there's no point in going cotterless any more,
unless you want a crank size that isn't available in isis, ie. shorter
than 100mm.

The qu-ax freestyle isis cranks only cost £12, and they are surely as
strong as most cotterless cranks. If you break these cranks, it's a
pretty good sign you need a full on splined setup. At that point it's
only £40 to upgrade to KH moment cranks, rather than having to spend
£100 on rebuilding the wheel with a new hub + cranks.

Joe

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So from your replies I'm pretty sure I shouldnt go with cottered cranks,
so depending on if I find splined cranks for a bargain I'll probally go
for cotterless since I'm only around a 100 pounds. Does anyone
recommend a good model thats not top of the line price and also a good
hub to go along with it? And I'm also confused on how the length of the
cranks makes a difference. I'm 5'7 so what size cranks should I be
looking at? Thanks, Joe.

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Littleman, your choice of cranks should not be based on price, but on
the kind of riding you intend to do. Without knowing that we really
can't be very helpful. If the riding you will do will involve lots of
hopping, dropping or the words Trials or Street, you should skip the
cotterless and go straight to splined. This will be cheaper in the long
run.

Oh, plus you had initially said "new wheel." Is this intended to fit an
"old" unicycle? Changing hubs may mean changing bearings, and width,
and only compatible stuff will fit an existing frame.

Crank length determines your leverage, and also how much foot movement
you have to do. Short for speed, long for power.

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How does power relate to doing anything on a unicycle? I mean I can
understand speed but what do you need power for? Are you talking about
riding or jumping?

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power as in torque, how much force you can transmit to the wheel.

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hes refering to (i think) how much "torque" you have.

The longuer the cranks the more leverage you will have and so it will
be easier to go up hills and to be stable while doing trials etc.
Shorter cranks u can go faster (obvious really.)

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