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how important is the bike?

Started by Chris Cowen · · Last activity · 7 posts · 667 views

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UK and Europe
Published
16 July 2007
Last activity
17 July 2007
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Chris Cowen
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7
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  1. Hi all,

    I've been away from cycling for a few years dues to numerous knee
    operations and have recently been back in the saddle properly again for
    about a month now, managing to fit in 100-120 miles a week round work
    commitments and the rain.

    I've been using a bottom end Halfords road bike, which is (technically)
    aluminium, but probably weighs the same as my mid-80s Dawes tourer
    (which is currently disassembled) (including rack). This 200 quid
    machine goes okay, and I rode steel bikes (531 and 501) in the 80's and
    early 90's, so at first it seemed okay to me.
    It is pretty heavy though - then again so am I at the moment, so I
    thought it would be perfectly adequate to get fit again. I bought the
    cheapest bike I could find, in case the old knees turned out not to be
    upto the task, then I would have only wasted a couple hundred quid. So
    far so good.

    I'm planning to treat myself to something a bit better, possibly next
    spring, but have recently been tempted by a Corratec in a local bike
    shop. This is a featherlite carbon thing with dura-ace groupset and
    carbon cranks. Weighs about the same as one of my wheels.

    I wondered how much easier to ride a bike like this would be - it's
    probably not practical to take it for a proper test ride with a cycle
    computer on it. My original plan was to slog through the winter on the
    "Apollo", by which time I expect it to be wearing out. However, with a
    couple of months of Summer left, I'm thinking maybe I should upgrade now.

    I wonder if such a low end machine as the Halford's Apollo has a
    practical limit as to how quick it can go. The gearing is pretty low, I
    think the smallest sprocket is 16 teeth on the rear. It's got the
    cheapest shimano 7 speed system. I'm often spinning round in top gear,
    reaching for the down tube (old habits), with no higher gears, and this
    is on the flat.

    Despite oiling etc, it just doesn't seem to roll along the road very
    well, which could be the cheapness of the hubs etc. If you stop
    pedalling, you lose momentum more quickly than seems reasonable. I used
    to have a reasonably good mountain bike a decade ago, and I am sure it
    was quicker than this. I had a decent set of road wheels on the dawes
    and (as far as I remember) it glided along much more readily. I'd try
    those wheels on the new bike, but the cartridges are not compatible.

    I have no idea where the price bands are for road bikes - is a 500 quid
    bike really that much better for example, or do you need to spend 1000
    or more to really see the benefit? Are there any light aluminium bikes,
    or is it better to pay a bit more for carbon?

    Cheers

  2. On 16/07/2007 19:50, Chris Cowen said,

    Quoted message said:

    Despite oiling etc, it just doesn't seem to roll along the road very
    well, which could be the cheapness of the hubs etc. If you stop
    pedalling, you lose momentum more quickly than seems reasonable.

    The obvious thing is the tyres. I don't know what the Apollo has, but a
    good set of slick or semi-slick tyres at the right pressure can make a
    heck of a difference.

    Quoted message said:

    I have no idea where the price bands are for road bikes - is a 500 quid
    bike really that much better for example, or do you need to spend 1000
    or more to really see the benefit? Are there any light aluminium bikes,
    or is it better to pay a bit more for carbon?

    Can't help with that - the type of road bike you're talking about is
    outside my league!

    --
    Paul Boyd
    http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

  3. Upon the miasma of midnight, a darkling spirit identified as Chris Cowen
    <[email hidden]> gently breathed:

    Quoted message said:

    I have no idea where the price bands are for road bikes - is a 500 quid
    bike really that much better for example, or do you need to spend 1000
    or more to really see the benefit? Are there any light aluminium bikes,
    or is it better to pay a bit more for carbon?

    From what others have posted here before, I gather an ultra-light bike
    is a very different beast indeed, very responsive and quick to react.

    But even with heavyweight bikes the quality of the components makes a
    big difference. I ride a full size Dutch roadster with full guards,
    chain case, panniers, etc. It cost a touch over 500 quid from Cycle
    Heaven in York, and while it's seriously heavy, I find it an absolute
    joy to ride simply because it's so beautifully put together from very
    high quality parts. I'm aware of working hard to go up hills, but once
    moving it absolutely glides along and never seems to want to stop on its
    own. The only maintenance I have to do is keep the tyres pumped up
    hard, and they loose so little air I only have to do that occasionally.

    So yes, I'd say the quality of the bike and components very much affects
    your experience of cycling, possibly as much things like the weight of
    the machine does.

    One thing, you really want to take a decent length test ride before
    buying an expensive machine. Different bikes suit different people,
    make sure you try a few before buying, so you get something that really
    works for you.

    --
    - DJ Pyromancer, Black Sheep, Leeds. <http://www.sheepish.net>
    Hard Rock, Leeds <http://www.hard-rock.org.uk>
    Broadband, Dialup, Domains = <http://www.wytches.net> = The UK's Pagan ISP!
    <http://www.inkubus-sukkubus.co.uk> <http://www.revival.stormshadow.com>

  4. in message <[email hidden]>, Chris Cowen

    (') said:

    I'm planning to treat myself to something a bit better, possibly next
    spring, but have recently been tempted by a Corratec in a local bike
    shop. This is a featherlite carbon thing with dura-ace groupset and
    carbon cranks. Weighs about the same as one of my wheels.

    Right. I have an old Raleigh Record Sprint, which is probably about as good
    as (or not much better than) your Apollo.
    http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/album/kitchenpr0n/target6.html
    I also have a carbon Dolan with a full Centaur groupset and Ksyrium ES
    wheels.
    http://www.jasmine.org.uk/dogfood/story/article_41.html

    The Dolan is /far/ nicer to ride. It's comfortable, stiff, responsive,
    everything works, it rolls beautifully. But realistically is isn't worth
    more than about 2mph extra. My average on it is more than that faster, but
    that's mainly because it inspires me to work harder - it's rewardingly
    responsive. So I tend to go on average about 4mph faster than on the
    Raleigh, but arrive considerably sweatier.

    The thing about the Dolan is, though, that it is quite close to as good as
    a road bike gets. Ordinary people can't afford to own a Ferrari or a
    Maclaren F1, but you can afford to own the cycling equivalent. It's a
    wonderful machine from an aesthetic as well as from an athletic point of
    view, and a complete joy to ride.

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

  5. I'd agree with Paul Boyd that as a short-term boost, you could do a helluva
    lot worse than to get a track pump (one like this
    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Beto-Beto-Deluxe-Track-pump-with-pressure-gauge--Alloy--Composite-construction-and-Dual-Valve-Head-Offer--9361.htm)
    and take your tyres up to whatever maximum is printed on the side of them -
    probably 110 psi or something...and you're probably running them at about
    60-70 now, tho' you don't know it. You'll be surprised at the difference.

    As a longer term measure, would you consider second hand? If so, even a
    hundred quid can buy you a wonderful machine on ebay. This one
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300129544112&rd=1&rd=1,
    eg, went last night for £87. You need to know how ebay works, and you need
    patience, but you can get some lovely machinery for a song.


  6. Quoted message said:

    I'd agree with Paul Boyd that as a short-term boost, you could do a helluva
    lot worse than to get a track pump
    and take your tyres up to whatever maximum

    As a longer term measure, would you consider second hand? If so, even a
    hundred quid can buy you a wonderful machine on ebay. This onehttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STR...,

    If you need the above advice you might have a few problems with a
    cheap second hand bike unless you are lucky.
    I have just become the third member of our club to buy a Giant scr
    (aluminium frame). Scr2 seems like great value at the moment.
    Get it fitted to you at a proper local bike shop.
    For 500gbp or so it will keep up with anything unless you want to race
    with the first team.You will have a nicer time with one you can put
    proper mudguards on, which puts the al frame scr ahead of the carbon.

    If you join the CTC first you may get 5 or 10% off which pays for your
    first year, and you can go out with the local club, get the mag, etc.

    TerryJ

  7. spokes said:

    I'd agree with Paul Boyd that as a short-term boost, you could do a helluva
    lot worse than to get a track pump (one like this
    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Beto-Beto-Deluxe-Track-pump-with-pressure-gauge--Alloy--Composite-construction-and-Dual-Valve-Head-Offer--9361.htm)
    and take your tyres up to whatever maximum is printed on the side of them -
    probably 110 psi or something...and you're probably running them at about
    60-70 now, tho' you don't know it. You'll be surprised at the difference.

    As a longer term measure, would you consider second hand? If so, even a
    hundred quid can buy you a wonderful machine on ebay. This one
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300129544112&rd=1&rd=1,
    eg, went last night for £87. You need to know how ebay works, and you need
    patience, but you can get some lovely machinery for a song.


    Thanks for the comments everyone.

    The tyres thing sounds like a great idea - I've pumped the tyres as hard
    as I can get with my hand pump (a little Blackburn thing, that's not
    bad), and it does seem to make a small, yet discernable difference. I
    think I will take a look at getting a better pump as recommended. I'll
    probably take the tyres from the Dawes, as they are much thinner (I put
    a set of low end race wheels on it about 8 years ago). I still reckon
    they're well below the maximum PSI though, so that probably will be
    worth while.

    I think if I am being sensible, I won't buy the Corratec (it's out of my
    league as well, to be honest), but stick to my original plan which is to
    buy a nicer road bike at around the 700 pounds mark, probably next
    spring. I quite fancy a Ribble. I'm often up near Preston, where their
    premises are. In the meantime, I have plenty of time to watch ebay ...

    I've been sorting through my bikes in the shed and am about to sell my
    GT Outpost trail. It's redundant as I have been using my Dahon folder in
    and around town. I also noticed that my old Dawes frame has quite a bit
    of adjustment in the rear drop outs, so I think my next project (rather
    than spend loads of cash on a new road bike) is going to be a fixed
    wheel conversion. I think it could be a lot of fun, and they're supposed
    to be good for training and winter use.

    Cheers

    Chris

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