Could anyone recommend some brake clocks for my oldish MTB cantilever brakes pls?
I note Sheldon recommends Kool Stop Salmon - but I can't find these in the UK. In fact cantilever blocks seem quite thin on the ground all round. The brakes are Shimano Deore LX with threaded stud and I think plain washer blocks. Sheldon calls them centre pull (traditional) cantilever btw, :
Could anyone recommend some brake clocks for my oldish MTB cantilever brakes pls?
I note Sheldon recommends Kool Stop Salmon - but I can't find these in the UK. In fact cantilever blocks seem quite thin on the ground all round. The brakes are Shimano Deore LX with threaded stud and I think plain washer blocks. Sheldon calls them centre pull (traditional) cantilever btw, :
I have seen Kool-Stop Salmons for sale at JD Cycles of Ilkley but I can't find them on their site.If you give them a ring on 01943-816101 I am sure they will send you some.
I have seen Kool-Stop Salmons for sale at JD Cycles of Ilkley but I can't find them on their site.If you give them a ring on 01943-816101 I am sure they will send you some.
I have seen Kool-Stop Salmons for sale at JD Cycles of Ilkley but I can't find them on their site.If you give them a ring on 01943-816101 I am sure they will send you some.
They're in stock too (or at least they were last week when I got some). -- Jon ____________________________________________ jondotrogersatntlworlddotcom ============================================
I have seen Kool-Stop Salmons for sale at JD Cycles of Ilkley but I can't find them on their site.If you give them a ring on 01943-816101 I am sure they will send you some.
I figure I need the threaded version of the Wiggle ones, and then buy some nuts to fit? When I looked I couldn't understand why they called them 'threaded' and 'canti'.
I figure I need the threaded version of the Wiggle ones, and then buy some nuts to fit? When I looked I couldn't understand why they called them 'threaded' and 'canti'.
If you buy threaded blocks, they will come with the nuts and various washers. I think (but could be wrong) that 'threaded' blocks were originally used on V-brakes, and 'canti' blocks on, er, cantis. It does seem to have all got mixed up now though, and when I replaced the shockingly short-lived Shimano blocks on the V-brakes on my commuter, I was also confused for a while!
In article <[email hidden]>, Paul Boyd [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
If you buy threaded blocks, they will come with the nuts and various washers. I think (but could be wrong) that 'threaded' blocks were originally used on V-brakes, and 'canti' blocks on, er, cantis.
ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or similar plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come first?
In article <[email hidden]>, Paul Boyd usenet.dont.work@plusnet says...
Quoted message said:
Rob Morley said the following on 16/07/2007 08:00:
Quoted message said:
ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or similar plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come first?
U-brakes! I hope they've been consigned to the dustbin of history! Now you mention it, I do vaguely remember that these had threaded blocks.
U-brakes are still used on some BMX freestyle bikes - I don't think there's anything wrong with the basic design concept, but mounting them on ATB chainstays probably wasn't the smartest move. Saracen used to do a nice bike with U-brakes both ends, the rear had a mono seat stay.
In article <[email hidden]>, Paul Boyd [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
If you buy threaded blocks, they will come with the nuts and various washers. I think (but could be wrong) that 'threaded' blocks were originally used on V-brakes, and 'canti' blocks on, er, cantis.
ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or similar plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come first?
Possibly true in Shimano-land, and I don't know how old those nasty brakes would be.
Outside of Shimano-land, my circa 1990 Suntour cantilevers take a threaded block. I now use the fairly standardised V-brake type a replacements.
In article <[email hidden]>, Nigel Cliffe [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
Rob Morley said:
In article <[email hidden]>, Paul Boyd [email hidden] says...
Quoted message said:
If you buy threaded blocks, they will come with the nuts and various washers. I think (but could be wrong) that 'threaded' blocks were originally used on V-brakes, and 'canti' blocks on, er, cantis.
ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or similar plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come first?
Possibly true in Shimano-land, and I don't know how old those nasty brakes would be.
I figure I need the threaded version of the Wiggle ones, and then buy some nuts to fit? When I looked I couldn't understand why they called them 'threaded' and 'canti'.
Rob
I've got old brakes like this on my touring bike and on my utility bike (a 1987 model MTB with cantis on the front and U-brakes on the back). I think you'll find that threaded callipers blocks like these Aztecs will fit:
(The Aztecs are widely available, and work fine but tend to squeak - careful toe-ing-in is needed. Fibrax and Shimano calliper blocks will probably also fit.) I've also JUST managed to squeeze V-brake blocks onto the tourer's front brakes, though the lack of clearance between fork and wheel made it a close-run thing.
In message <[email hidden]>, Paul Boyd <usenet.dont.work@plusnet.?.invalid> writes
Quoted message said:
Rob Morley said the following on 16/07/2007 08:00:
Quoted message said:
ISTR that threaded blocks were first used on some nasty Exage or similar plastic and steel cantilevers. Or did the U-brake ones come first?
U-brakes! I hope they've been consigned to the dustbin of history! Now you mention it, I do vaguely remember that these had threaded blocks.
My old bike's U-brakes have fantastic stopping power, and are going strong after 20 years of abuse. When you're towing a loaded trailer you need a good solid rear brake, and the U-brakes are the biz. The manufacturers' big mistake was in fitting them to bikes designed for wallowing in mud: they're in a vulnerable position and the arms collect the crud. Used on-road, they're no problem.