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Crank Length Druthers on a 20"

Started by puresyn · · Last activity · 9 posts · 131 views

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01 / Original postCrank Length Druthers on a 20"puresyn · 13 Jul 2007 02 / This pagePosts 1–9Page 1 of 1 · chronological order 03 / Latest replyPost #9Web Guy · 25 Jul 2007

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Original section
rec.sport.unicycling
Published
13 July 2007
Last activity
25 July 2007
Original author
puresyn
Posts
9
Discussion status
Public discussion
Total views
131
Views / 30 days
0
Topics
Home workshop setupCranksetsCrank arm lengthShort cranksSpecialized

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  1. Original post
    puresyn
    Archived post
    #1

    I graduated from a 20" Torker LX to a 20" Nimbus II LN w/Kovachi wheel.
    For some reason I got it in my head that the 102mm/4" was somehow a
    better choice because it was shorter with less leverage (less chance of
    stripping vs. 127mm/5"😉 and go faster.

    I rode it for a couple hours and noticed more wobbling and much more
    zig zagging needed vs. 5". For the first 30 minutes on it, I HATED IT.

    I was at least able to do 6 miles on the 20 Torker LX (although I don't
    suggest it with the stock seat). Has anyone ever attempted that on a
    102mm cranks on a 20" uni?

    Did you guys know immediately when you guys changed crank lengths that
    it was not for you? Or did you give it some time? If so, how long?

    If I am feeling frugle and wanted my LBS to swap the cranks from Torker
    LX to Numbus II, would it work? I am hoping he might for free if I
    react immediately than say a couple weeks down the road, where he is
    most likely to charge me for the swap if possible.

    And I wanted to thank everyone on this site for the much valuable
    information that I have received already. Thanks in advance to everyone
    for your help as well. You guys are awesome! I'd thank you guys
    personally at NAUCC if the airline ticket wasn't $500 (thats a new KH20
    to me).

    If we had this site 20 years ago, I'd probably never would have quit
    riding my uni.

    21146

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  2. onelesscar
    Archived post
    #2

    hmmm....I'm surprised that shorter cranks would cause more zigzagging...

    I've only had good experiences with short cranks, down to about 80mm on
    a coker 😄 . In my experience, it does take a little while to get fully
    used to them.

    As for the swapping of the cranks, you can get a tool for $15 and then
    do it for yourself as many times as you want. It's really quite easy 🙂

    Report
  3. skrobo
    Archived post
    #3

    or just knock them off the old school way, but I'll leave you to that.
    also, as far as short cranks go, generally they cause much LESS wheel
    "swerve" than longer ones do.

    --
    skrobo

    Quoted message said:

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  4. feel the light
    Archived post
    #4

    Because it the square holes were of different sizes, they should list
    different sizes, and they don't.
    Rather then buy a special bike tool to pull the cranks off, I
    recommend a cheap and versatile tool called a 2 jaw gear puller. It
    will be found at discount auto parts places, can be used for lots of
    jobs besides cranks (uni bearings). It pulls cranks off fine as long as
    you use a socket or spacer to protect the axle threads. It can be
    bought for cheaper then the bike tool.
    It took a few weeks to decide I liked shorter cranks on my 36. 1"
    less feels like a lot of difference to me.

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  5. puresyn
    Archived post
    #5

    Then that seems to explain alot to me. I think the swerve is coming from
    riding a thicker tire and going to a thinner one like a Primo tire.
    Also I am probably using too much downward force which could also be
    the problem. But the swerve cant be helped on the uphills on the
    shorter cranks, almost a must or is my technique lame? Another
    possibility is that I am riding it too fast that might cause some
    instability?

    --
    puresyn

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  6. skrobo
    Archived post
    #6
    feel the light said:

    Because if the square holes were of different sizes, they should list
    different sizes, and they don't.
    Rather then buy a special bike tool to pull the cranks off, I
    recommend a cheap and versatile tool called a 2 jaw gear puller. It
    will be found at discount auto parts places, can be used for lots of
    jobs besides cranks (uni bearings). It pulls cranks off fine as long as
    you use a socket or spacer to protect the axle threads. It can be
    bought for cheaper then the bike tool.
    It took a few weeks to decide I liked shorter cranks on my 36. 1"
    less feels like a lot of difference to me.

    you could get the auto parts puller, but the bike tool is much more
    likely to work right, i have a set of cranks that a puller like that
    would NOT work on.

    --
    skrobo

    Quoted message said:

    <> Unicycle For Christ <><


    'my video!' (http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58465)
    ____________________________________________
    -last edited by \"elvisunifreak\" at 8:35 pm -
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  7. feel the light
    Archived post
    #7

    To show what I was talking about. They come in sizes to fit gears from
    watches to trains . They might not work as well on very round cranks.
    Flat sided cranks will be easy with the right size puller. 5-10 $, in
    stock at the auto parts store near you.

    --
    feel the light
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  8. dan de man
    Archived post
    #8

    sorry for the thread jack but that uni is really sexy I love those
    pedals and i need to get a splined freestyle

    --
    dan de man

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  9. Web Guy
    Archived post
    #9

    Make more dynamic graphics on http://www.customsigngenerator.com

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