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How is the Fuji 'newest' series?

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Cycling Equipment
Published
5 June 2007
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12 June 2007
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michael
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  1. Hi there - I was planning on picking up a used bike off of Craig's
    List, but so far, everything I've looked at has been over priced and/
    or in terrible condition. I'm thinking I'll probably just get
    something new from my LBS. I found the Newest 3.0 (http://
    www.fujibikes.com/2007/bikes.asp?id=278&subcat=) for $600 nearby. Does
    that seem like a good bike, and a good price? I rode it around and it
    felt pretty good, but some people have told me that it is too entry
    level. I know very little about what bikes are better than others, so
    I really am lost here.

    Any advice?

    Thanks!

    -Michael

  2. In article <[email hidden]>,

    michael said:

    Hi there - I was planning on picking up a used bike off of Craig's
    List, but so far, everything I've looked at has been over priced and/
    or in terrible condition. I'm thinking I'll probably just get
    something new from my LBS. I found the Newest 3.0 (http://
    www.fujibikes.com/2007/bikes.asp?id=278&subcat=) for $600 nearby. Does
    that seem like a good bike, and a good price?

    Both are reasonable, and certainly compareable to anything else
    in that price range. Fuji bikes have a reputation as a good value
    for the money. You could probably get the same bike for less
    on sale in a few months.

    Quoted message said:

    I rode it around and it
    felt pretty good, but some people have told me that it is too entry
    level. I know very little about what bikes are better than others, so
    I really am lost here.

    Any advice?

    Shimano components go Sora-Tiagra-105-Ultegra-DuraAce. Basically
    what you get as you go up the scale is lighter weight and some
    improvement in functionality. If you just want to get out and
    ride Sora is plenty functional in my experience. If you get to
    the point where it wears out, you'll then know enough to know
    what you really want in a bike. As far as I can tell on the web
    it seems to have the standard set of OEM components. ( i.e. sora
    shifters/derailler, Tektro brakes, no name crank, sugino most
    likely, and Alex wheels. )

    At that price range I would worry more about getting the shop to
    work with you on the fit. Will they swap stems for free? Do they
    have a saddle exchange policy?

    _ Booker C. Bense

  3. michael said:

    Hi there - I was planning on picking up a used bike off of Craig's
    List, but so far, everything I've looked at has been over priced and/
    or in terrible condition. I'm thinking I'll probably just get
    something new from my LBS. I found the Newest 3.0 (http://
    www.fujibikes.com/2007/bikes.asp?id=278&subcat=) for $600 nearby. Does
    that seem like a good bike, and a good price? I rode it around and it
    felt pretty good, but some people have told me that it is too entry
    level. I know very little about what bikes are better than others, so
    I really am lost here.

    Craigslist is really hit and miss. A lot of people buy bikes on
    craigslist then are surprised how much it will cost them to get it into
    suitable condition, because they buy everything at retail, and pay a
    bike shop for the repairs and upgrades. Meanwhile, that new bike is
    assembled in China with components that probably cost about 10% of what
    a bike shop charges for the components.

    I would not buy the Fuji Newest 3.0. It has several problems with it.
    Also, this bike regularly goes on sale for about $550.

    For a road bike in that price range I'd get the Bianchi Brava. See
    "http://www.bianchiusa.com/07_brava.html". It has an MSRP of $800, but
    regularly sells for about $650.

  4. Booker C. Bense bbense+rec.bicycles.tech.Jun. said:

    Both are reasonable, and certainly compareable to anything else
    in that price range. Fuji bikes have a reputation as a good value
    for the money. You could probably get the same bike for less
    on sale in a few months.

    But by then the weather is going to be getting nasty again 🙁 I'm
    going crazy without a bike...

    Quoted message said:

    Shimano components go Sora-Tiagra-105-Ultegra-DuraAce. Basically
    what you get as you go up the scale is lighter weight and some
    improvement in functionality. If you just want to get out and
    ride Sora is plenty functional in my experience. If you get to
    the point where it wears out, you'll then know enough to know
    what you really want in a bike. As far as I can tell on the web
    it seems to have the standard set of OEM components. ( i.e. sora
    shifters/derailler, Tektro brakes, no name crank, sugino most
    likely, and Alex wheels. )

    At that price range I would worry more about getting the shop to
    work with you on the fit. Will they swap stems for free? Do they
    have a saddle exchange policy?

    _ Booker C. Bense

    Why would I want to swap stems? The stem is adjustable on the 3.0.
    Similarly - when would one exchange their saddle? At the time of
    purchase? I thought the stock saddle was quite comfortable.

    -Michael

  5. SMS said:

    Craigslist is really hit and miss. A lot of people buy bikes on
    craigslist then are surprised how much it will cost them to get it into
    suitable condition, because they buy everything at retail, and pay a
    bike shop for the repairs and upgrades. Meanwhile, that new bike is
    assembled in China with components that probably cost about 10% of what
    a bike shop charges for the components.

    I have been mostly missing - not so much on the hitting. Most
    everything I've seen has been in a terrible state of disrepair.

    Quoted message said:

    I would not buy the Fuji Newest 3.0. It has several problems with it.
    Also, this bike regularly goes on sale for about $550.

    I won't cry too much over $50. But what problems are you referring to?

    Quoted message said:

    For a road bike in that price range I'd get the Bianchi Brava. See
    "http://www.bianchiusa.com/07_brava.html". It has an MSRP of $800, but
    regularly sells for about $650.

    I will call around (tomorrow when the stores open - too late now) to
    see if I can find a bike shop with it. I visited one of the bike shops
    that the Bianchi site lists and I don't remember seeing it - they
    mostly had Treks.

    -Michael

  6. FUJI bikes don't have a good frame warranty - its only 3 years or
    something. I would not buy the bike if it has an exotic frame
    (i.e. if there is any carbon in the frame.)

    - Don Gillies
    San Diego, CA

  7. michael said:

    Hi there - I was planning on picking up a used bike off of Craig's
    List, but so far, everything I've looked at has been over priced and/
    or in terrible condition. I'm thinking I'll probably just get
    something new from my LBS. I found the Newest 3.0 (http://www.fujibikes.com/2007/bikes.asp?id=278&subcat=) for $600 nearby. Does
    that seem like a good bike, and a good price? I rode it around and it
    felt pretty good, but some people have told me that it is too entry
    level. I know very little about what bikes are better than others, so
    I really am lost here.

    Any advice?

    If it fits, get it. 8 speed rear is easy to dial in, very robust and
    spares are dirt cheap. Sora is more than good enough for rec riding.
    Wheels should prove to be robust, just make sure the spoke tension is
    even. Brakes are bottom end Tektros--but stop just fine.

    I like the fact that it's designed to get the bars up to real world
    position. Nice. there are even provisions for mounting a rack and/or
    fenders (might be a tight fit). It would make my short list for an
    affordable entry level bike; it's actually nicer than some of the more
    expensive models that have less sensible design and are more wannabe
    racers.

  8. michael said:

    Hi there - I was planning on picking up a used bike off of Craig's
    List, but so far, everything I've looked at has been over priced and/
    or in terrible condition. [...]

    Have you looked around at local bike shops? Some of them will
    have used bikes too. Usually they're in better condition than
    those from private sellers.
    --
    Ben Pfaff
    http://benpfaff.org

  9. landotter said:

    ...
    I like the fact that it's designed to get the bars up to real world
    position. Nice. there are even provisions for mounting a rack and/or
    fenders (might be a tight fit). It would make my short list for an
    affordable entry level bike; it's actually nicer than some of the more
    expensive models that have less sensible design and are more wannabe
    racers.

    "Compact geometry" offends the eye.

    --
    Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
    The weather is here, wish you were beautiful

  10. michael said:

    I will call around (tomorrow when the stores open - too late now) to
    see if I can find a bike shop with it. I visited one of the bike shops
    that the Bianchi site lists and I don't remember seeing it - they
    mostly had Treks.

    The Brava is extremely popular in terms of a sub-$800 road bike, so the
    Bianchi dealers have a hard time keeping them in stock, even though the
    street price of this model has shot up $150 in the last few years.

    It's got a cromoly steel frame, and it's a non-compact frame, two things
    that are highly sought after and in short supply as manufacturers are in
    a race to the bottom in terms of costs.

    Try to find something with non-compact geometry at a minimum.

  11. Johnny Sunset said:
    landotter said:

    ...
    I like the fact that it's designed to get the bars up to real world
    position. Nice. there are even provisions for mounting a rack and/or
    fenders (might be a tight fit). It would make my short list for an
    affordable entry level bike; it's actually nicer than some of the more
    expensive models that have less sensible design and are more wannabe
    racers.

    "Compact geometry" offends the eye.

    Care to link to a solid 600 buck bike that ain't compact? The fact
    that the bars are in a much more sensible position than the vast
    majority of road bikes is far more important than a sloping tube's
    aesthetics.

    I own a sloping frame and a horizontal bar frame. Both are sized
    properly and look nice.

  12. SMS said:
    michael said:

    I will call around (tomorrow when the stores open - too late now) to
    see if I can find a bike shop with it. I visited one of the bike shops
    that the Bianchi site lists and I don't remember seeing it - they
    mostly had Treks.

    The Brava is extremely popular in terms of a sub-$800 road bike, so the
    Bianchi dealers have a hard time keeping them in stock, even though the
    street price of this model has shot up $150 in the last few years.

    It's got a cromoly steel frame, and it's a non-compact frame, two things
    that are highly sought after and in short supply as manufacturers are in
    a race to the bottom in terms of costs.

    Uh, as much as I like my steel rides--paying $200 more for the Bianchi
    to get similar spec, but with a slightly less inclined top tube and a
    less upright position seems downright dumb. Cheap steel frames ride
    pretty much like cheap aluminum frames.

    The Fuji comes in the same range of six sizes as the Bianchi. What
    again is so special about the Bianchi that makes it worth $200 more?
    The celeste paint? The more hunched over position?


  13. Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    For a road bike in that price range I'd get the Bianchi Brava. See
    "http://www.bianchiusa.com/07_brava.html". It has an MSRP of $800, but
    regularly sells for about $650.



    --------
    ahhh, the bianchi. The brava is the one where the frames don't crack,
    because they're heavier, is that correct?


  14. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    "Compact geometry" offends the eye.

    Care to link to a solid 600 buck bike that ain't compact? The fact
    that the bars are in a much more sensible position than the vast
    majority of road bikes is far more important than a sloping tube's
    aesthetics.

    I own a sloping frame and a horizontal bar frame. Both are sized
    properly and look nice.


    ----------
    Most people don't have a clue on what ultimately will feel comfortable, but
    at least with a compact geometry you can make it bigger and smaller, without
    changing how it handles. With a horizontal, you better get it right,
    because there is less wiggle room. Even the horizontal's are different,
    because in the late 90's they lowered it, before that it was in your crotch,
    which really feels stupid, if you've ever ridden one.

  15. Johnny Sunset said:
    landotter said:

    ...
    I like the fact that it's designed to get the bars up to real world
    position. Nice. there are even provisions for mounting a rack and/or
    fenders (might be a tight fit). It would make my short list for an
    affordable entry level bike; it's actually nicer than some of the more
    expensive models that have less sensible design and are more wannabe
    racers.

    "Compact geometry" offends the eye.

    Lotsa folks feel that way about recumbents.

  16. Johnny Sunset said:

    "Compact geometry" offends the eye.

    Agreed, but it also can mean the difference between a bike that's
    comfortable and one that hurts to ride, especially for shorter people.

    A sloping top tube can be used to lower the top of the seat tube or to
    raise the top of the head tube. The latter is almost certainly what the
    Fuji designers had in mind. Just look at the relative position of saddle
    and handlebars in the photo:
    <http://www.fujibikes.com/2007/bikes.asp?id=278&subcat=>

    To the OP: Whether the bike's frame design has traditionalist appeal or
    not should not be a major factor in your decision. If you find that the
    Fuji fits your body and wallet, then it's probably a good choice. The
    components *are* low-end, as is to be expected on a $600 road bike, but
    I don't see anything worrisome in the spec.

  17. Steve Gravrock said:
    Johnny Sunset said:

    "Compact geometry" offends the eye.

    Agreed, but it also can mean the difference between a bike that's
    comfortable and one that hurts to ride, especially for shorter people.

    It's true, the compact frames are good for shorter people.

    Compact frames (frames with a sloping top tube) were introduced by
    manufacturers seeking to reduce the number of different size frames that
    they had to manufacture. With three or four sizes of compact frames, the
    manufacturer can tailor the bicycle to fit most customers. They simply
    use a longer seat post to fit taller riders. They can also use a longer
    steerer tube and use spacers between the headset and the stem. The false
    rationalizations for compact frames are that the smaller frame is
    lighter, and "livelier." Of course the longer seat post negates the
    benefit of the lower weight of the compact frame.

    There was a very good article about compact geometry frames on the
    Cannondale web site (now removed): "there's a disturbing trend among
    some bike companies to re-tool their road frames by shortening the seat
    tube and slanting the top tube down from the head tube. This new design
    "breakthrough," they argue, saves frame weight. And if you take their
    claim literally, they're right - a shorter seat tube does make a bare
    frame a little lighter. What they don't tell you is that their complete
    bicycle actually weighs more than a bike with a conventional geometry.
    Why? You have to use longer (and therefore heavier) seatposts and stems
    on smaller frames to fit the rider properly, and their added weight more
    than off-sets the few grams saved by their sloping top tube frames.

    For non-short people, a compact frame is very undesirable. Whatever you
    do, avoid compact frames on road bikes. Get a properly sized,
    "traditional" geometry frame.

  18. SMS said:
    Steve Gravrock said:

    On 2007-06-06, Johnny Sunset <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    "Compact geometry" offends the eye.

    Quoted message said:

    Agreed, but it also can mean the difference between a bike that's
    comfortable and one that hurts to ride, especially for shorter people.

    It's true, the compact frames are good for shorter people.

    Compact frames (frames with a sloping top tube) were introduced by
    manufacturers seeking to reduce the number of different size frames that
    they had to manufacture. With three or four sizes of compact frames, the
    manufacturer can tailor the bicycle to fit most customers.

    There may be some benefit to the manufacturer for sure, but both
    Bianchi and Fuji offer *6* sizes, not three or four. You're spouting
    tired old r.b.t rhetoric.

    Quoted message said:

    They simply
    use a longer seat post to fit taller riders. They can also use a longer
    steerer tube and use spacers between the headset and the stem. The false
    rationalizations for compact frames are that the smaller frame is
    lighter, and "livelier." Of course the longer seat post negates the
    benefit of the lower weight of the compact frame.

    There was a very good article about compact geometry frames on the
    Cannondale web site (now removed): "there's a disturbing trend among
    some bike companies to re-tool their road frames by shortening the seat
    tube and slanting the top tube down from the head tube. This new design
    "breakthrough," they argue, saves frame weight. And if you take their
    claim literally, they're right - a shorter seat tube does make a bare
    frame a little lighter. What they don't tell you is that their complete
    bicycle actually weighs more than a bike with a conventional geometry.
    Why? You have to use longer (and therefore heavier) seatposts and stems
    on smaller frames to fit the rider properly, and their added weight more
    than off-sets the few grams saved by their sloping top tube frames.

    Bunk. If you ride the proper sized compact frame, you don't need a
    super long post. I even sawed one of mine off partially, after noting
    the minimum insertion mark and making a new such mark with a file. Two
    ounces gone, and nobody has to know. /snort

    Quoted message said:


    For non-short people, a compact frame is very undesirable.

    Bunk. A sloping top tube frame is fine. Indeed, it helps to get
    handlebar height dialed in right. As long as you get the correct size.
    People these days seem to ride a size compact/sloping frame smaller
    than would be optimal. Long seatposts have become fashionable, no
    doubt due to mtb styling being seen as the norm.

    "Very undesirable?" Totally without merit.

    Quoted message said:

    Whatever you
    do, avoid compact frames on road bikes.

    Why? You haven't given a good reason yet.

    Quoted message said:

    Get a properly sized,
    "traditional" geometry frame.

    No reason to, unless you like the aesthetics. I've taken to sloping
    frames. On my fixed gear, which has 130mm of post showing, it moves
    the head tube up 7-8cm from where it would otherwise be. Excellent!
    People have been hookwinked for years into adopting race style setups
    with excruciatingly low bars when they didn't need them--because it
    was a royal PITA to get them up. Yeah, you've got the Nitto tall
    stems, but few shops around here carry them, just the short quills and
    few of those these days. With the compact frame you've already got a
    head start. I don't care if they also benefit manufacturers--I like
    them, and they make sense.

    It's sort of like moaning about threadless setups. Yeah, they save
    manufacturers some dough, and certainly aren't as pretty as quills,
    but being able to adjust your headset with a multi-tool is pretty
    cool. Now if we could just stop them from cutting those dang steerers
    too short.

    Like a flat top tube? Ride one by all means, just don't start using
    the same 'tude as those dirty recumbentists.

  19. In article <[email hidden]>,

    michael said:
    Booker C. Bense bbense+rec.bicycles.tech.Jun. said:


    At that price range I would worry more about getting the shop to
    work with you on the fit. Will they swap stems for free? Do they
    have a saddle exchange policy?

    _ Booker C. Bense

    Why would I want to swap stems? The stem is adjustable on the 3.0.

    I missed that, but in general you want to tweak both angle and
    length for the best fit.

    Quoted message said:

    Similarly - when would one exchange their saddle? At the time of
    purchase? I thought the stock saddle was quite comfortable.

    You don't know if a saddle is really comfortable or not until you
    take it on a long ride. Cushy on a test ride is often terrible on
    a long ride.

    _ Booker C. Bense

  20. Booker C. Bense bbense+rec.bicycles.tech.Jun. said:


    You don't know if a saddle is really comfortable or not until you
    take it on a long ride. Cushy on a test ride is often terrible on
    a long ride.

    It depends. I have one bike with a nearly rock hard "Unicanitor" type
    saddle with perhaps a 2mm of padding under the leather--but it's great
    for epic rides. It's perfect for a bike with drops where a lot of your
    weight is on feet and hands. Then I have another ride with an equally
    narrow, but pretty plush Speed-V type clone. With cycling shorts--the
    doubling of padding is excruciating after five miles, as you get numb
    bits. In regular unpadded shorts, thirty mile rides are no problem.
    It's all relative. If the OP is planning on wearing some of those
    adult diapers by Pearl Izumi, then there might be issues. :-P

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