Good Online source for loose bearings?

RS said:

I need grade 25 1/4" bearings, 50 or 100. What's a good place to
order from? thanks

Thia should do it for you.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ type in this part number 9528K15

Lewis.

*****

"RS" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I need grade 25 1/4" bearings, 50 or 100. What's a good place to
order from? thanks

Do you have any bike shops near you? My LBS sell Grade 25 bearings for $0.05
each! If you must mail order, check out www.biketoolsetc.com

Good Luck!

"bfd" <[email hidden]> wrote in
news:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Do you have any bike shops near you? My LBS sell Grade 25 bearings for
$0.05 each! If you must mail order, check out www.biketoolsetc.com

Postage on small items usually kills the price difference vs. your local bike
shop.

sally said:

"bfd" <[email hidden]> wrote innews:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Do you have any bike shops near you? My LBS sell Grade 25 bearings for
$0.05 each! If you must mail order, check outwww.biketoolsetc.com

Postage on small items usually kills the price difference vs. your local bike
shop.

add: www.loosescrews.com/
Nashbar.com
Universalcycles.com
one or the other will have a bargain in stock. loose screws are
chinese 25's for frequent repacks.
Harris Cyclery sells top grade 25's, highly recommended.

datakoll said:

sally said:

"bfd" <[email hidden]> wrote innews:[email hidden]:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Do you have any bike shops near you? My LBS sell Grade 25 bearings for
$0.05 each! If you must mail order, check outwww.biketoolsetc.com

Quoted message said:

Postage on small items usually kills the price difference vs. your local bike
shop.

add:www.loosescrews.com/
Nashbar.com
Universalcycles.com
one or the other will have a bargain in stock. loose screws are
chinese 25's for frequent repacks.
Harris Cyclery sells top grade 25's, highly recommended.

Usually I try to put together an order of $25 to 50 bucks so the
minimum shipping charge doesn't take quit such a large percentage of
the total. I prefer buying online for bearings because there is no way
to know for sure if they are 25 grade. I figure that neither the LBS
nor the on line supplier is likely to bother to switch lower grades on
purpose, but it is very easy to accidentally switch them. It seems to
me that the less they are handled the less chance of mixing.

Also the business of not mixing batches of bearings due to different
diameters. How in Gods name does one know if they are from the same
batch even if they are in the same bag? I suspect that there are a lot
of high mileage bike bearings out there that have mixed batches &/ or
grades. I guess what I'm saying is that I buy gr. 25 batches of
bearings w/ hope they are more likely to be a matched batch & actually
gr. 25 bearings.

I like BikeToolsEtc due to their location (usually 1 day shipping, UPS
Ground),
no sales tax for Calif. & their great customer service. I support Bike
tools etc. in particular because they provide a much needed connection
to unusual bike tools & parts @ one location (& 1 shipping charge). I
also like McMaster-Carr. I could get lost in their on line catalog for
days. I've never bothered to compare prices.

Regards, John

RS said:

I need grade 25 1/4" bearings, 50 or 100. What's a good place to
order from? thanks

Wow, what a coincidence, I needed the same bearings today. I went to REI
and they sold them to me for 15¢ each. I don't know if they were grade
25 or not, but I suspect that they were.

Loose Screws is a good on-line source for that sort of thing.

I often order stuff from McMaster, and they have them too, as someone
else pointed out, 100 for $4.12 which is a good price.

Most bike shops will have these and will sell them to you.

rei bearings! amazing.
we spoke on bearings several times with experience suggesting a grade
25 bearing was a duh 25 bearing. Visually 25s i n wide price ranges
are shiny and shinier like 8 then 10.
the loose screws 25 bearings are probably rei bearings-check the
prices!!
the harris bearings are rocket science bearings for BB ( ifn yawl have
a balla and cone) or HD rear hub for HD commuting/mitty racing/touring
or just for fun if you're into spending RSB's
at this time I have no way to compare the Harris 25 to the Loose
Screws 25 (maybe the bikepartsetc also-its a coastal port thing)
butbutbut each disassembly of the harris bearings was "do I need to
replace these, they look new"
while the cones (Shimano and Wheels) were degrading.
If the assembly is generic at $10-20 go for the asian 25s but if
you're repacking a $50+ assembly or in a headset where replacing the
bearing surfaces is a hassle then the rocket science bearings will pay
off.
On the other hand, just to screw you around here, frequent replacement
of 200 carbon steel bearings with woods or finish line cycle lube
could be easier on the bearing surfaces as the 200's are softer than
the 25's. maybe.
the 25 is a sphericity number for roundness not a hardness or wear
number so a 25 could be carbon steel but rounder than a 200 carbon
steel at much lower price.
which is a good reason to spend the extra dough for RSB-clears the air
without getting a degree in bearing science.
get sevral kinds and put them in the vise grips and file twice then
inspect with magnifier and bright lught?

datakoll said:

rei bearings! amazing.
we spoke on bearings several times with experience suggesting a grade
25 bearing was a duh 25 bearing. Visually 25s i n wide price ranges
are shiny and shinier like 8 then 10.
the loose screws 25 bearings are probably rei bearings-check the
prices!!
the harris bearings are rocket science bearings for BB ( ifn yawl have
a balla and cone) or HD rear hub for HD commuting/mitty racing/touring
or just for fun if you're into spending RSB's
at this time I have no way to compare the Harris 25 to the Loose
Screws 25 (maybe the bikepartsetc also-its a coastal port thing)
butbutbut each disassembly of the harris bearings was "do I need to
replace these, they look new"
while the cones (Shimano and Wheels) were degrading.
If the assembly is generic at $10-20 go for the asian 25s but if
you're repacking a $50+ assembly or in a headset where replacing the
bearing surfaces is a hassle then the rocket science bearings will pay
off.
On the other hand, just to screw you around here, frequent replacement
of 200 carbon steel bearings with woods or finish line cycle lube
could be easier on the bearing surfaces as the 200's are softer than
the 25's. maybe.
the 25 is a sphericity number for roundness not a hardness or wear
number so a 25 could be carbon steel but rounder than a 200 carbon
steel at much lower price.
which is a good reason to spend the extra dough for RSB-clears the air
without getting a degree in bearing science.
get sevral kinds and put them in the vise grips and file twice then
inspect with magnifier and bright lught?

bearings more usually fail by spalling, and that's fatigue. that is
related to high quality surface finish. "ep" [extra polish] bearing
balls, can have a much better life span because of it - that's a visible
difference you can seek for comparison.

In article
<[email hidden]>,
[email hidden] says...

Quoted message said:

I need grade 25 1/4" bearings, 50 or 100. What's a good place to
order from? thanks

I need bearings from time to time, not a lot. One local shop had grade
300 and I wanted 25, it is normally a very good shop. I appreciate all
the input on this.

Here's a long shot, any industrial supply houses I can just go ride to
within 20-30 miles of Oakland, California that has a bottle of 100 or
so?

thanks

jim beam said:

datakoll said:

rei bearings! amazing.
we spoke on bearings several times with experience suggesting a grade
25 bearing was a duh 25 bearing. Visually 25s i n wide price ranges
are shiny and shinier like 8 then 10.
the loose screws 25 bearings are probably rei bearings-check the
prices!!
the harris bearings are rocket science bearings for BB ( ifn yawl
have a balla and cone) or HD rear hub for HD commuting/mitty
racing/touring or just for fun if you're into spending RSB's
at this time I have no way to compare the Harris 25 to the Loose
Screws 25 (maybe the bikepartsetc also-its a coastal port thing)
butbutbut each disassembly of the harris bearings was "do I need to
replace these, they look new"
while the cones (Shimano and Wheels) were degrading.
If the assembly is generic at $10-20 go for the asian 25s but if
you're repacking a $50+ assembly or in a headset where replacing the
bearing surfaces is a hassle then the rocket science bearings will
pay off.
On the other hand, just to screw you around here, frequent
replacement of 200 carbon steel bearings with woods or finish line
cycle lube could be easier on the bearing surfaces as the 200's are
softer than the 25's. maybe.
the 25 is a sphericity number for roundness not a hardness or wear
number so a 25 could be carbon steel but rounder than a 200 carbon
steel at much lower price.
which is a good reason to spend the extra dough for RSB-clears the
air without getting a degree in bearing science.
get sevral kinds and put them in the vise grips and file twice then
inspect with magnifier and bright lught?

bearings more usually fail by spalling, and that's fatigue. that is
related to high quality surface finish. "ep" [extra polish] bearing
balls, can have a much better life span because of it - that's a
visible difference you can seek for comparison.

Don't the races/cones die first usually from lack of lubrication or
water/salt seepage?

--
Phil

On Jun 2, 11:00 pm, datakoll <[email hidden]> wrote:
<snipped>

- on bearing ball quality -

Quoted message said:

at this time I have no way to compare the Harris 25 to the Loose
Screws 25 (maybe the bikepartsetc also-its a coastal port thing)

Then why comment?

Quoted message said:

butbutbut each disassembly of the harris bearings was "do I need to
replace these, they look new"

Geez, bearing balls are cheap, even the good ones (or, at least, they
*should* be if you are 'buying smart'😉; why not replace the balls
during an overhaul?? You already have the hub/headset/BB open, why
waste time pinching pennies???

Quoted message said:

while the cones (Shimano and Wheels) were degrading.

Typical, IME.

<snip>

Quoted message said:

maybe.
the 25 is a sphericity number for roundness not a hardness or wear
number

Why speculate when you can know the answer:

http://www.steelmedia.com/steel-balls-grades.htm

<snip>

Non-Squid said:

jim beam said:

datakoll said:

rei bearings! amazing.
we spoke on bearings several times with experience suggesting a grade
25 bearing was a duh 25 bearing. Visually 25s i n wide price ranges
are shiny and shinier like 8 then 10.
the loose screws 25 bearings are probably rei bearings-check the
prices!!
the harris bearings are rocket science bearings for BB ( ifn yawl
have a balla and cone) or HD rear hub for HD commuting/mitty
racing/touring or just for fun if you're into spending RSB's
at this time I have no way to compare the Harris 25 to the Loose
Screws 25 (maybe the bikepartsetc also-its a coastal port thing)
butbutbut each disassembly of the harris bearings was "do I need to
replace these, they look new"
while the cones (Shimano and Wheels) were degrading.
If the assembly is generic at $10-20 go for the asian 25s but if
you're repacking a $50+ assembly or in a headset where replacing the
bearing surfaces is a hassle then the rocket science bearings will
pay off.
On the other hand, just to screw you around here, frequent
replacement of 200 carbon steel bearings with woods or finish line
cycle lube could be easier on the bearing surfaces as the 200's are
softer than the 25's. maybe.
the 25 is a sphericity number for roundness not a hardness or wear
number so a 25 could be carbon steel but rounder than a 200 carbon
steel at much lower price.
which is a good reason to spend the extra dough for RSB-clears the
air without getting a degree in bearing science.
get sevral kinds and put them in the vise grips and file twice then
inspect with magnifier and bright lught?

Quoted message said:

bearings more usually fail by spalling, and that's fatigue. that is
related to high quality surface finish. "ep" [extra polish] bearing
balls, can have a much better life span because of it - that's a
visible difference you can seek for comparison.

Don't the races/cones die first usually from lack of lubrication or
water/salt seepage?

Yep.

rs-
track the maintenance with a log and repack in a year or two which
ever is convient.
300's will do it. with wood or finish line teflon at Florida temps,
occasional rain, the grease absolves and washes out so that after a
year its shot and into a grinding compound downward spiral.
Which is the problem, I'm told: dirt.
Beam sez spalling but the degrading takes place on a microscopic level
with the metal getting ground off not lubed with clean grease.
so if the bearing lacks ultimate rocket science chromium content
hardness like the 300's, the bearing goes out of round to ellipsoid
and instead of rolling, begins slamming around in there like a hammer
pounding the grinding compound, and less of it every day, into the
cone. bummer!
by the way, finish line teflon 'seams' to have an edge on procrastin
nation repacks with some impressive lube power at very low film
quantities.
that's a good link but it doesn't tell you what you're buying.
i can't compare caws I went to cartridge BB, haven't redone the asian
25 bearing headset with low chromium content nor the deore rear hub.
inbetween. I'll get back to you on it. I'll shout from the bypass!

Phil said:

jim beam said:

datakoll said:

rei bearings! amazing.
we spoke on bearings several times with experience suggesting a grade
25 bearing was a duh 25 bearing. Visually 25s i n wide price ranges
are shiny and shinier like 8 then 10.
the loose screws 25 bearings are probably rei bearings-check the
prices!!
the harris bearings are rocket science bearings for BB ( ifn yawl
have a balla and cone) or HD rear hub for HD commuting/mitty
racing/touring or just for fun if you're into spending RSB's
at this time I have no way to compare the Harris 25 to the Loose
Screws 25 (maybe the bikepartsetc also-its a coastal port thing)
butbutbut each disassembly of the harris bearings was "do I need to
replace these, they look new"
while the cones (Shimano and Wheels) were degrading.
If the assembly is generic at $10-20 go for the asian 25s but if
you're repacking a $50+ assembly or in a headset where replacing the
bearing surfaces is a hassle then the rocket science bearings will
pay off.
On the other hand, just to screw you around here, frequent
replacement of 200 carbon steel bearings with woods or finish line
cycle lube could be easier on the bearing surfaces as the 200's are
softer than the 25's. maybe.
the 25 is a sphericity number for roundness not a hardness or wear
number so a 25 could be carbon steel but rounder than a 200 carbon
steel at much lower price.
which is a good reason to spend the extra dough for RSB-clears the
air without getting a degree in bearing science.
get sevral kinds and put them in the vise grips and file twice then
inspect with magnifier and bright lught?

bearings more usually fail by spalling, and that's fatigue. that is
related to high quality surface finish. "ep" [extra polish] bearing
balls, can have a much better life span because of it - that's a
visible difference you can seek for comparison.

Don't the races/cones die first usually from lack of lubrication or
water/salt seepage?

it's not usually lack of lubrication, but they do indeed fail first.
replacing bearing balls is a pointless exercise if the cones are not
replaced first.

water seepage/grit intrusion is another issue and will destroy any
bearing, regardless of quality.

Ozark Bicycle said:

Quoted message said:

Don't the races/cones die first usually from lack of lubrication or
water/salt seepage?

Yep.

So does it make much difference whether we use Asian bearings or what
Sheldon sells? I can't make microscopic measurements on bearings, but
the races/cones (when failed) are "naked eye" failures. I would think
that the bearings are so much harder than the races that the bearings
are always going to outlast the race.

Not pinching pennies, just curious.

still me said:

On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 11:29:12 -0000, Ozark Bicycle

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Don't the races/cones die first usually from lack of lubrication or
water/salt seepage?

Quoted message said:

Yep.

So does it make much difference whether we use Asian bearings or what
Sheldon sells?

You are assuming there *is* a difference. Other than cost, that is not
at all clear.

Quoted message said:

I can't make microscopic measurements on bearings, but
the races/cones (when failed) are "naked eye" failures. I would think
that the bearings are so much harder than the races that the bearings
are always going to outlast the race.

Not pinching pennies, just curious.

IMO, buy Grade 25 bearing balls (for their uniformity and 'roundness'😉
and replace the balls when you overhaul the component. Grit is a great
cause of wear; thoughly removing grit means removing the bearing balls
and cleaning everything. Why not just replace the bearing balls at
that point?

On Jun 3, 8:50 am, datakoll <[email hidden]> wrote:

<snipped?

- more on bearing balls and maintenence -

Quoted message said:

300's will do it. with wood or finish line teflon [grease] at Florida temps,
occasional rain, the grease absolves and washes out so that after a
year its shot and into a grinding compound downward spiral.

Geez, this seems bass ackward; why use cheap (less uniform and less
'round'😉 bearing balls and overpriced designer grease???

What do you think has a tougher duty cycle, a bicycle hub bearing or a
boat trailer wheel bearing? IME, marine grease, packed and priced like
the commodity that grease really is, is ideal for use in bicycle
bearings.

Quoted message said:

Which is the problem, I'm told: dirt.

This is exactly why it makes sense to replace the bearing balls whilst
overhauling the component. A through cleaning means removing the
bearing balls anyway; instead of cleaning 'em, just replace 'em.

Quoted message said:

Not pinching pennies, just curious.

well, i'm not an engineer like beam but i take it apart and put it
abck together X times.
with shimano equipment, wood or fl grease, and harris 25 rocket
science bearings coupled with a 'normal' preventive maintenance
schedule:
rear hub goes 2 bearing replacements per cone then the hub is worn out
after the second cone so 3 bearing repacks. HD commuting/touring-
shopping at 60-70 pounds rear rack.
the ritchey headset is 4 repacks new bearings-no visual wear on the
crown race
original BB's Harris 25's 5 repacks and worn out-15K miles?
P. wood and finish line cycle grease with walmart castrol marine
grease when the cones get rough.
I don't see any reason for cone replacement before at least 2 repacks.
is there friction gain over the repacks and no cone? not noticeable
compared to installing a caged bearing set after loose bearings.
i gotta go rebuild the rear wheel with a new deore XT following an
attack from THE FRIENDS OF LEMOND.

Ozark Bicycle said:

still me said:

On Sun, 03 Jun 2007 11:29:12 -0000, Ozark Bicycle

Quoted message said:

> Don't the races/cones die first usually from lack of lubrication or
> water/salt seepage?
Yep.

So does it make much difference whether we use Asian bearings or what
Sheldon sells?

You are assuming there *is* a difference. Other than cost, that is not
at all clear.

like spokes and their resistance to fatigue being a function of material
quality, the same applied to bearings. you can give an inferior
material a "grade 25" spherodicity, but it won't last as long as that
made of superior material. without testing or metallography, you can't
tell the difference - all you can do is perhaps note whether the bearing
balls are "ep" or not. if you're cheaping out on material, you'll also
presumably be cheap on the extra machining required for that final
polish - but it won't be definitive.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I can't make microscopic measurements on bearings, but
the races/cones (when failed) are "naked eye" failures. I would think
that the bearings are so much harder than the races that the bearings
are always going to outlast the race.

Not pinching pennies, just curious.

IMO, buy Grade 25 bearing balls (for their uniformity and 'roundness'😉
and replace the balls when you overhaul the component. Grit is a great
cause of wear; thoughly removing grit means removing the bearing balls
and cleaning everything. Why not just replace the bearing balls at
that point?

it may be "nice", but as far as the races are concerned, the components
that really determine life in bike bearings, it's pretty much a
pointless exercise - won't make the slightest difference to whether they
spall.