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Front dynamo light.

Started by vernon · · Last activity · 17 posts · 929 views

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UK and Europe
Published
28 May 2007
Last activity
29 May 2007
Original author
vernon
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17
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  1. I have a new Union bottom bracket generator that I am considering fitting to
    my Galaxy for some night riding in the future.- I might have a go at a
    300km Audax before the end of summer and I'm not fast enough to complete the
    distance in daylight.

    Which fron light would prove to be a value for money purchase?

    Please don't suggest anything that invokes the Yorkshire war cry of 'How
    much???!!!'

    -=V=-

  2. vernon said:

    I have a new Union bottom bracket generator that I am considering fitting to
    my Galaxy for some night riding in the future.- I might have a go at a
    300km Audax before the end of summer and I'm not fast enough to complete the
    distance in daylight.

    Which fron light would prove to be a value for money purchase?

    Please don't suggest anything that invokes the Yorkshire war cry of 'How
    much???!!!'

    -=V=-


    std B&M lumotec round, with a 3w bulb (how much???!! 😉 )if you opt to
    run a battery powered rearlight

    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  3. Quoted message said:

    Which fron light would prove to be a value for money purchase?

    I bought, years ago now, a Union bottle dynamo and that came with a set
    of lights. Those lights work perfectly well for unlit roads and served
    me well for several years. Did the BB dynamo not have lights with it?

    Quoted message said:


    Please don't suggest anything that invokes the Yorkshire war cry of
    'How much???!!!'


    DLumotec Plus, I just want to imagine you going purple ;-).
    --
    del 8-)

  4. vernon said:

    Which fron light would prove to be a value for money purchase?

    B&M Lumotec, think it's about £15.
    Lumotec Oval is generally considered a better bit of kit, and is £19.
    Add about £15 to either for a standlight option, or alternatively just
    get a cheap one LED white flasher for your bars to do a manual operated
    variant.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  5. del said:

    DLumotec Plus, I just want to imagine you going purple ;-).

    ITYM Solidlights 1203D in that case! ;-)

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  6. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    DLumotec Plus, I just want to imagine you going purple ;-).

    ITYM Solidlights 1203D in that case! ;-)

    That'll produce several colour changes and dip into the infra red.
    --
    del 8-)

  7. Peter Clinch said:
    vernon said:

    Which fron light would prove to be a value for money purchase?

    B&M Lumotec, think it's about £15.

    for three !

    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  8. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    B&M Lumotec, think it's about £15.

    for three !

    --
    /Marten

    Really?
    where from?
    TerryJ

  9. Peter Clinch twisted the electrons to say:

    Quoted message said:
    del said:

    DLumotec Plus, I just want to imagine you going purple ;-).


    ITYM Solidlights 1203D in that case! ;-)

    Don't go for half measures now, spec the 1203DR for that extra #25 worth
    of purpleness!
    --
    These opinions might not even be mine ...
    Let alone connected with my employer ...

  10. TerryJ said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    B&M Lumotec, think it's about £15.


    for three !

    --
    /Marten

    Really?
    where from?
    TerryJ


    current rrp is 8.90 euro's. Note that this is the basic round version
    without switch or standlight or fancy packaging. I still have old stock
    for 7.95 E

    --
    /Marten

    info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

  11. in message <[email hidden]>, Alistair Gunn

    (') said:

    Peter Clinch twisted the electrons to say:

    Quoted message said:
    del said:

    DLumotec Plus, I just want to imagine you going purple ;-).


    ITYM Solidlights 1203D in that case! ;-)

    Don't go for half measures now, spec the 1203DR for that extra #25 worth
    of purpleness!

    It's an ugly bugger, isn't it? I like the technology, but there's no way
    I'm going to put a lump like that on one of my bikes!

    --
    [email hidden] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

    ;; Human history becomes more and more a race between
    ;; education and catastrophe.
    H.G. Wells, "The Outline of History"

  12. Simon Brooke said:

    It's an ugly bugger, isn't it? I like the technology, but there's no way
    I'm going to put a lump like that on one of my bikes!

    That's not the real problem for me, it's more that it won't mount onto
    the same brackets in the same space as the lamps I've got on the 'bent
    and the Brom. Bah! (still, think of the money I've saved ;-))

    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  13. Simon Brooke said:

    As I understand it the dynamo drag is related to the amount of power being
    drawn. LEDs are supposed to be very much more efficient than halogen
    lights. Does this mean that, per unit of illumination, an LED setup will
    cause less drag than a halogen setup?

    I don't really know is the basic answer, /but/ given the drag you get
    from a decent hub is, in real terms for the utility cyclist, on the
    order of bugger all, I think it's fair to say almost everyone would opt
    for more units of illumination for whatever power you can usefully pull

    Quoted message said:

    Related question: the basic DLumotec costs 47 euros in Germany, or £45 in
    Glasgow (60 Euro/£65 with sensor switch and standlight). The Solidlights
    1203 costs £155. What are you getting for your extra £100, and is it worth
    it?

    There's a review in VV 21 of the Solidlights, DLumotec Oval and Lumotec
    Oval. From memory the verdict was the Solidlights was best, but not
    necessarily to the degree where it will fit your concept of "value for
    money", and the DLumo was reckoned better than the Lumo though they're
    fairly even at sustained high speeds.

    Pete.
    --
    Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
    Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
    Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
    net [email hidden] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

  14. Quoted message said:

    Thinking about running LED headlights with dynamos...

    I already do, a DLumotec, non stand light, and a Seculight plus.

    Quoted message said:


    As I understand it the dynamo drag is related to the amount of power
    being drawn. LEDs are supposed to be very much more efficient than
    halogen lights. Does this mean that, per unit of illumination, an LED
    setup will cause less drag than a halogen setup?

    Since I only have a cheap Union bottle dynamo that feels the same with
    or without lights I can't confirm/deny the above re drag. Riders I know
    who have a hub, Scmidt or other manufacturer, dynamo say that drag
    isn't noticable.
    Efficiency though is easily proved by walking the bike with the dynamo
    engaged and the front DLumotec and rear Seculite plus both show a full
    light at very low speeds.

    Quoted message said:


    Related question: the basic DLumotec costs 47 euros in Germany, or £45
    in Glasgow (60 Euro/£65 with sensor switch and standlight). The
    Solidlights 1203 costs £155. What are you getting for your extra £100,
    and is it worth it?


    The 1203 looks brighter, a friend runs one all the time, has a flashing
    mode, has twin lights and stand light. The electronics supposedly stop
    the light frying itself if it is the only light connected to a dynamo,
    usually a hub job. I think that they also have a quick release so you
    can remove from the bike easily when parking up, but that may be an
    optional extra.

    I may get one when I get a hub dynamo wheel or I may get a second
    DLumotec, with standlight this time.
    HTH,
    --
    del 8-)

  15. In article said:

    lights. Does this mean that, per unit of illumination, an LED setup will
    cause less drag than a halogen setup?

    Yes, but since a dynamo hub with no load still has some drag, the reduction
    won't be directly proportionate to the increased efficiency.

    Quoted message said:

    Related question: the basic DLumotec costs 47 euros in Germany, or £45 in
    Glasgow (60 Euro/£65 with sensor switch and standlight). The Solidlights
    1203 costs £155. What are you getting for your extra £100, and is it worth
    it?

    A lot more light at higher speeds - I believe you would need two Lumotecs
    and a switch to put the second one on in series to come close, and I'm not
    sure the DLumotecs allow that.

  16. Simon Brooke said:

    Thinking about running LED headlights with dynamos...

    As I understand it the dynamo drag is related to the amount of power
    being drawn. LEDs are supposed to be very much more efficient than
    halogen lights. Does this mean that, per unit of illumination, an LED
    setup will cause less drag than a halogen setup?

    Quoted message said:

    Related question: the basic DLumotec costs 47 euros in Germany, or
    £45 in Glasgow (60 Euro/£65 with sensor switch and standlight). The
    Solidlights 1203 costs £155. What are you getting for your extra
    £100, and is it worth it?

    SolidLights lamp is very bright. Whether its worth it for you is hard to say
    ? I am content on more basic bulb lamps.
    SolidLights is not massively more expensive than a pair of Schmidt E6 lamps,
    which is often claimed to be the best light output of the conventional bulb
    options.

    Alternative LED is Inoled (German firm), which are cheaper than SolidLights
    and come in two different power options. Peter White cycles in the US has a
    web page comparing the beam patterns of the Inoled with the Schmidt E6
    lamps, and discusses the power options; that might be useful in both total
    illumination and beam patterns.

    - Nigel

    --
    Nigel Cliffe,
    Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

  17. In article said:
    Simon Brooke said:

    Related question: the basic DLumotec costs 47 euros in Germany, or
    £45 in Glasgow (60 Euro/£65 with sensor switch and standlight). The
    Solidlights 1203 costs £155. What are you getting for your extra
    £100, and is it worth it?

    SolidLights is not massively more expensive than a pair of Schmidt E6 lamps,
    which is often claimed to be the best light output of the conventional bulb
    options.

    It is possible to combine the better beam pattern of an E6 with the
    efficiency of LEDs, but not off-the-shelf:
    http://www.enhydralutris.de/Fahrrad/LEDWerfer0402/

    Adding sophisticated driver circuitry comparable to the Solidlights would
    be a lot of design work, but using the most efficient LEDs you could find
    (currently the Cree XR-E, AFAIK) and a simple bridge rectifier using
    Schottky diodes apparently works well (and adding an active rectifier
    doesn't add a _great_ deal of complexity).
    (This relies on the dynamo being unable to produce a current the LEDs
    can't handle. The Solidlights can run off batteries as well, at multiple
    brightness levels, carefully regulated.)

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