Fitting cartridge bottom brackets

I've looked a bit closer at things. If I fit the cartridge (driveside) and
tighten it up to about 60Nm as per the spec. and then tighten the
non-driveside cup, tightening the cup also seems to tighten the driveside,
when the cup hits around 60Nm (or feels tight by hand) the cartridge
registers over 100Nm, this is way too much surely. The axle also feels
remarkably stiff too.

What damage can be caused by overtightening a BB, could I strip the shell
threads or crack the BB shell.

Is the tighness of the cup critical?

"PJay" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've notice some discrepancies between the Park website and my copy of
Zinn regarding fitting catridge BBs.

Zinn says to screw in the non-driveside cup a couple of turns, thread in
the cartridge and tighten to torque and then return to the non-driveside
cup and tighten this to torque.

The Park website says to thread the cartridge in by hand and then just
tighten the non-driveside cup, apparently this tightens again the flange
on the cartridge and tightens this up at the same time.

Which is right?

I've noticed that when I remove the cup the BB cartridge unthreads about
half way and when I tighted one or other side the other does appear to
tighten increasing the torque on the tightened side; just tightened the
non-driveside cup doesn't seem right through.

On the Shimano instructions both the cartridge and non-driveside cup are
shown as being tightened from 50-70Nm. If I tighten the driveside to
torque and then the cup I'm finding that tightening the cup then tightens
the driveside so it's well over torque nearer 100Nm (and the bearing feel
as if they're starting to bind). Having said that I've been doing it that
way for a while without problems.

What's the best method? Should I tighten the cartridge to spec. and then
just nip up the cup?

I've heard that a loose BB can damage the threads in the shell, for this
to happen would it need to be obviously loose?

Sorry, this is probably pretty simple stuff but I may build up a more
expensive frame later in the year so want to get things right and avoid
potential damage.

PJay said:

I've looked a bit closer at things. If I fit the cartridge (driveside) and
tighten it up to about 60Nm as per the spec. and then tighten the
non-driveside cup, tightening the cup also seems to tighten the driveside,
when the cup hits around 60Nm (or feels tight by hand) the cartridge
registers over 100Nm, this is way too much surely. The axle also feels
remarkably stiff too.

What damage can be caused by overtightening a BB, could I strip the shell
threads or crack the BB shell.

Is the tighness of the cup critical?

"PJay" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've notice some discrepancies between the Park website and my copy of
Zinn regarding fitting catridge BBs.

Quoted message said:

Zinn says to screw in the non-driveside cup a couple of turns, thread in
the cartridge and tighten to torque and then return to the non-driveside
cup and tighten this to torque.

Quoted message said:

The Park website says to thread the cartridge in by hand and then just
tighten the non-driveside cup, apparently this tightens again the flange
on the cartridge and tightens this up at the same time.

Quoted message said:

Which is right?

Quoted message said:

I've noticed that when I remove the cup the BB cartridge unthreads about
half way and when I tighted one or other side the other does appear to
tighten increasing the torque on the tightened side; just tightened the
non-driveside cup doesn't seem right through.

Quoted message said:

On the Shimano instructions both the cartridge and non-driveside cup are
shown as being tightened from 50-70Nm. If I tighten the driveside to
torque and then the cup I'm finding that tightening the cup then tightens
the driveside so it's well over torque nearer 100Nm (and the bearing feel
as if they're starting to bind). Having said that I've been doing it that
way for a while without problems.

Quoted message said:

What's the best method? Should I tighten the cartridge to spec. and then
just nip up the cup?

Quoted message said:

I've heard that a loose BB can damage the threads in the shell, for this
to happen would it need to be obviously loose?

Quoted message said:

Sorry, this is probably pretty simple stuff but I may build up a more
expensive frame later in the year so want to get things right and avoid
potential damage.

If tightening the BB cups makes the spindle too tight, need to prep
the BB shell, chase and face.

Oddly I've found that axle stiffness doesn't occur at all if I replace the
resin adapter with an alloy one, no idea why this works though.

"Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

PJay said:

I've looked a bit closer at things. If I fit the cartridge (driveside)
and
tighten it up to about 60Nm as per the spec. and then tighten the
non-driveside cup, tightening the cup also seems to tighten the
driveside,
when the cup hits around 60Nm (or feels tight by hand) the cartridge
registers over 100Nm, this is way too much surely. The axle also feels
remarkably stiff too.

What damage can be caused by overtightening a BB, could I strip the shell
threads or crack the BB shell.

Is the tighness of the cup critical?

"PJay" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I've notice some discrepancies between the Park website and my copy of
Zinn regarding fitting catridge BBs.

Quoted message said:

Zinn says to screw in the non-driveside cup a couple of turns, thread
in
the cartridge and tighten to torque and then return to the
non-driveside
cup and tighten this to torque.

Quoted message said:

The Park website says to thread the cartridge in by hand and then just
tighten the non-driveside cup, apparently this tightens again the
flange
on the cartridge and tightens this up at the same time.

Quoted message said:

Which is right?

Quoted message said:

I've noticed that when I remove the cup the BB cartridge unthreads
about
half way and when I tighted one or other side the other does appear to
tighten increasing the torque on the tightened side; just tightened
the
non-driveside cup doesn't seem right through.

Quoted message said:

On the Shimano instructions both the cartridge and non-driveside cup
are
shown as being tightened from 50-70Nm. If I tighten the driveside to
torque and then the cup I'm finding that tightening the cup then
tightens
the driveside so it's well over torque nearer 100Nm (and the bearing
feel
as if they're starting to bind). Having said that I've been doing it
that
way for a while without problems.

Quoted message said:

What's the best method? Should I tighten the cartridge to spec. and
then
just nip up the cup?

Quoted message said:

I've heard that a loose BB can damage the threads in the shell, for
this
to happen would it need to be obviously loose?

Quoted message said:

Sorry, this is probably pretty simple stuff but I may build up a more
expensive frame later in the year so want to get things right and avoid
potential damage.

If tightening the BB cups makes the spindle too tight, need to prep
the BB shell, chase and face.