Chain Quality

1) When it's worn.
2) Weight and quality.
3) Campagnolo, IRD, KMC, Mavic, Rohloff, Shimano, SRAM, Wippermann: all used for every conceivable reason under the sun.

BtonRider said:

I just replace my chain with a Dur-Ace and I'm trying to decide if I just wasted and extra $20. My LBS tells me to replace my chain every 2000 miles regardless of it's ware. I've heard though I should wait until there's 0.75-1% ware (using the Park Tool Chain Tool). So I'm curious:

1) When should I replace my chain?
2) What's the real difference between the Dur-Ace and 105 grade chain?
3) What other brands do people use and why?

My answers are similar to Scotty's.
1. Replace when worn--you can use the Park tool as a guide or measure.
2. Nothing but a little weight and some cost. I don't think that quality is really noticeably different for most people.
3. I like Wipperman or SRAM because of the removable link.

I would say there is a fairly large differnce between 105 and Dura-Ace. 105 uses stamped plates and Dura-Ace uses machined plates, which is more prescise. But now the ultegra offers basicly no differnce. Ultergra is what I get.

cdy291 said:

I would say there is a fairly large differnce between 105 and Dura-Ace. 105 uses stamped plates and Dura-Ace uses machined plates, which is more prescise. But now the ultegra offers basicly no differnce. Ultergra is what I get.

I stand by my comment that most people would not notice the difference in chain performance between DA or 105 under most circumstances.

John M said:

I stand by my comment that most people would not notice the difference in chain performance between DA or 105 under most circumstances.

The whole point is knowing that it's DA!! 😉

1) at 0.75% stretch, measured by Park tool cc-3 or similar. I've found checking by rule to be unreliable and difficult - I overcooked a chain while falsely reassuring myself that it hadn't stretched.
A fixed mileage limit is complete rubbish, but your LBS would tell you that.
2) little, not even much weight.
3) I use Shimano only out of habit.

1. I change it when my shifting starts to get sketchy
2. weight
3. I am full "Campified" and I still use a Shimano chain. I think their chains work fine, I'm not picky.

silver or light-coloured chains are better because they make you wanna clean them more often to keep them shiny 🙂

rudycyclist said:

1. I change it when my shifting starts to get sketchy

I would say that that is too late - you've probably fried your cassette and one or more chainrings by then.

rudycyclist said:

I am full "Campified" and I still use Shimano

These are mutually exclusive statements

Wipperman definitely. In general, today's chains are pretty much all the same with one large difference - maintenance. A dirty chain wears out itself and your very expensive groupo much, MUCH faster. Lubing a dirty chain is a bad idea because you stop the squeaks, but does almost nothing for the wear and tear. The correct way to get a chain clean is to remove and soak it to get the grit from between pins and links.

Soooo...the best chain is one that easily allows you to remove it for cleaning and lubing. The chain connectors on Shimano and Campy suck at this - they require special tools, and are almost impossible to reinstall correctly every time. Wipperman on the other hand, has the Connex system which lets you remove and re-install the chain in seconds with only your hands - NO tools!

Result? Saves money, time, aggravation, etc. Wipperman are so much better that they are preferred by many top racing teams, and now original equip for Cervelo, Orbea, Eddy Merkx, etc. The only one I use on my Dura-10.

I just pulled off a Campy Chorus 10-speed chain after 3,300 miles. Compared hanging side-by-side (after cleaning on the bike with a Park Tool chain cleaner) the wear amounted to 3/16" over a new Chorus chain shortened to the same number of links.

The old chain was cleaned with the Park cleaner about every 300 miles and I run my chains both oiled and greased. The old chain shifted perfectly when i pulled it off and the new chain shifts no better. There was no excessive wear to any of the cassette cogs or chainrings.

I've seen a website that recommended chains go no longer than 2000 miles, but maintenance/lubrication, terrain and riding practices will vary this quite a bit, in my opinion.

Menage-a-Tri said:

Soooo...the best chain is one that easily allows you to remove it for cleaning and lubing. The chain connectors on Shimano and Campy suck at this - they require special tools, and are almost impossible to reinstall correctly every time. Wipperman on the other hand, has the Connex system which lets you remove and re-install the chain in seconds with only your hands - NO tools!

I don't see your point. Easily removable chain links from any one of multiple brands can be used with ANY chain. Even the "single use" chain repair links can be removed with a pair of multigrips in about 5 seconds, and reused as many times as you like, pin wear notwithstanding. I've got 4 Shimano chains on my bikes, any one of them can be removed within 10 seconds, and replaced in another 30 seconds or so.

Menage-a-Tri said:

Wipperman definitely. In general, today's chains are pretty much all the same with one large difference - maintenance. A dirty chain wears out itself and your very expensive groupo much, MUCH faster. Lubing a dirty chain is a bad idea because you stop the squeaks, but does almost nothing for the wear and tear. The correct way to get a chain clean is to remove and soak it to get the grit from between pins and links.

Soooo...the best chain is one that easily allows you to remove it for cleaning and lubing. The chain connectors on Shimano and Campy suck at this - they require special tools, and are almost impossible to reinstall correctly every time. Wipperman on the other hand, has the Connex system which lets you remove and re-install the chain in seconds with only your hands - NO tools!

Result? Saves money, time, aggravation, etc. Wipperman are so much better that they are preferred by many top racing teams, and now original equip for Cervelo, Orbea, Eddy Merkx, etc. The only one I use on my Dura-10.

Guess we're all different here. My buddy likes shiny chains and cassettes, and frequently cleans everything with Simple Green or other strong degreasers.
OTOH, I never remove chains for cleaning.

My theory is that intensive cleaning will only shorten chain life. Prolink applied correctly seems to be "self-cleaning", ie, new lube continually flushes out the old dirty stuff. I do have a chain-cleaner machine, but maybe use it once or twice a season. Having the outside plates shine does nothing for the function or life of the chain, but probably doesn't hurt anything as long as it's not overdone. A wipe with a shop rag works fine to keep excess oil off the outside of the chain.

Have used SRAM chains, and had long life from them (4-6K miles) but now have gone back to Shimano; for me, they just seem to work better. Current HG93 chain has 5K miles, and is still within the 0.75% wear limit on the Park gauge. First DA cassette lasted 10K miles, now have 6K on the replacement Ultegra.