Questions about Campy freewheel hubs

* * Chas said:

Some questions for you Campy experts.

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them. These
will be used for casual retro rides.

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my Campy
120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

There seems to be over a dozen variations of post R/NR/SR Campy FW hub
models.

I've seen a few 130mm wide NOS Campy FW hubs for sale. Is there any
difference other than cosmetics between the 12+ different freewheel hub
models?

Are the Campy MTB hubs any beefier or are they just road hubs with rubber
covers over the QR lever?

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

As long as you don't break axles, get yourself a Campy Record hubset.
I believe the old SR/NR groups used the same hub, so get the one with
the black clip in the middle that covers the oil port. With grade 25
bearings, it will be smooth.

Alternatively, if you want more "polish," see if you can find yourself
a C-Record hubset.

If you are strong or heavy, then a freewheel-style hub may not be the
best thing to get as you will break axles. If that is the case, then
find get yourself a good cassette hub. Good Luck!

"bfd" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

* * Chas said:

Some questions for you Campy experts.

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them.

These

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

will be used for casual retro rides.

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

would defeat my purpose.

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my

Campy

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

There seems to be over a dozen variations of post R/NR/SR Campy FW hub
models.

I've seen a few 130mm wide NOS Campy FW hubs for sale. Is there any
difference other than cosmetics between the 12+ different freewheel

hub

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

models?

Are the Campy MTB hubs any beefier or are they just road hubs with

rubber

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

covers over the QR lever?

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

would defeat my purpose.

As long as you don't break axles, get yourself a Campy Record hubset.
I believe the old SR/NR groups used the same hub, so get the one with
the black clip in the middle that covers the oil port. With grade 25
bearings, it will be smooth.

Alternatively, if you want more "polish," see if you can find yourself
a C-Record hubset.

If you are strong or heavy, then a freewheel-style hub may not be the
best thing to get as you will break axles. If that is the case, then
find get yourself a good cassette hub. Good Luck!

I have a bunch of Campy SR/NR hub sets with 126mm rear spacing. They're
still my all time favorites. I also have some later Campy FW hubs: Veloce,
Victory and C-Record.

I'm building up some sewup wheels for these 130mm frames and I was
wondering if the later model hubs had any strength advantage over SR/NR
hubs.

Chas.

* * Chas said:

"bfd" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

* * Chas said:

Some questions for you Campy experts.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them.

These

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

will be used for casual retro rides.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

would defeat my purpose.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my

Campy

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

There seems to be over a dozen variations of post R/NR/SR Campy FW hub
models.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I've seen a few 130mm wide NOS Campy FW hubs for sale. Is there any
difference other than cosmetics between the 12+ different freewheel

hub

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

models?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Are the Campy MTB hubs any beefier or are they just road hubs with

rubber

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

covers over the QR lever?

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

would defeat my purpose.

Quoted message said:

As long as you don't break axles, get yourself a Campy Record hubset.
I believe the old SR/NR groups used the same hub, so get the one with
the black clip in the middle that covers the oil port. With grade 25
bearings, it will be smooth.

Quoted message said:

Alternatively, if you want more "polish," see if you can find yourself
a C-Record hubset.

Quoted message said:

If you are strong or heavy, then a freewheel-style hub may not be the
best thing to get as you will break axles. If that is the case, then
find get yourself a good cassette hub. Good Luck!

I have a bunch of Campy SR/NR hub sets with 126mm rear spacing. They're
still my all time favorites. I also have some later Campy FW hubs: Veloce,
Victory and C-Record.

I'm building up some sewup wheels for these 130mm frames and I was
wondering if the later model hubs had any strength advantage over SR/NR
hubs.

Not that I'm aware of. The last fw Campy hubs I had were C-Record from
around 1989 or 90. I broke axles frequently and ended up going to a
cassette hub. Haven't broken an axle since!

I broke my first axle recently. As far as I am aware, it happened
because I was using a shimano derailleur on an old-style derailleur
hanger, causing the jockey wheels to hit the freewheel in gear #1 (out
of 21.) On a very steep hill in a granny gear in front, this caused
terrific drivetrain vibrations and within 20 secs - axle breakage.

If this has ever happened to you, you know that the QR nut then
becomes a missile. I searched for over 20 minutes to find that piece
of axle and QR nut as it was a 70's maillard QR nut that I didn't want
to forfeit.

If you are going to use a 130mm rear axle, i'd suggest using one from
wheels mfg because they are not only high quality and but they do not
have a keyway, hence, they may possibly be stronger than campagnolo.
And, make sure that your derailleur is spaced away from the freewheel
adequately to avoid drivetrain vibrations in all gears. Since I have
only ever broken 1 axle, i cannot draw any further conclusions.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

* * Chas said:

I have a bunch of Campy SR/NR hub sets with 126mm rear spacing. They're
still my all time favorites. I also have some later Campy FW hubs: Veloce,
Victory and C-Record.

Campy SR/NR hubs are identical, except for about one year (1978) when SR
hubs were offered with Titanium axles. They were "high failure items" as
Andy Muzi would put it, and Campy reverted to steel for later
production.

The steel axles in SR/NR, Tipo, Triomphe, and Victory hubs were all
identical. Only cosmetic differences in the shell and QR, and larger
front balls on the NR/SR series distinguished the models.

--

John ([email hidden])

"Donald Gillies" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I broke my first axle recently. As far as I am aware, it happened
because I was using a shimano derailleur on an old-style derailleur
hanger, causing the jockey wheels to hit the freewheel in gear #1 (out
of 21.) On a very steep hill in a granny gear in front, this caused
terrific drivetrain vibrations and within 20 secs - axle breakage.

If this has ever happened to you, you know that the QR nut then
becomes a missile. I searched for over 20 minutes to find that piece
of axle and QR nut as it was a 70's maillard QR nut that I didn't want
to forfeit.

If you are going to use a 130mm rear axle, i'd suggest using one from
wheels mfg because they are not only high quality and but they do not
have a keyway, hence, they may possibly be stronger than campagnolo.
And, make sure that your derailleur is spaced away from the freewheel
adequately to avoid drivetrain vibrations in all gears. Since I have
only ever broken 1 axle, i cannot draw any further conclusions.

Amusing :-)

I've heard several tales of tourers breaking back axles, and the QR holding
the entire thing together for a long time afterwards. This was in the bad
old days of freewheel hubs of course..

cheers,
clive

* * Chas said:

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them. These
will be used for casual retro rides.

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my Campy
120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

You only need 126 spacing to run a 7 speed freewheel (all
7 speed FW are "ultra" spacing). If you want to build a 7 sp
freewheel wheel for a 130mm spacing bike, put the extra
4mm of spacers on the non-drive side. The unsupported
axle length on the drive side will be the same as if you'd
built the wheel for 126mm spacing. In other words, the
unsupported axle length should be as small as possible
to accomodate the freewheel, and is not determined by the
frame. You may be able to add the 4mm of spacers to
a 126mm axle (which is really 137mm long) and be able
to use it without replacing the axle.

IME, if you are large or climb a lot, you may still break
axles with a 7 speed freewheel. I'm 170-180 lbs and broke
axles every couple of years on commute/CX bikes.
However, for casual retro rides it should be fine.

Ben

"Donald Gillies" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

I broke my first axle recently. As far as I am aware, it happened
because I was using a shimano derailleur on an old-style derailleur
hanger, causing the jockey wheels to hit the freewheel in gear #1 (out
of 21.) On a very steep hill in a granny gear in front, this caused
terrific drivetrain vibrations and within 20 secs - axle breakage.

If this has ever happened to you, you know that the QR nut then
becomes a missile. I searched for over 20 minutes to find that piece
of axle and QR nut as it was a 70's maillard QR nut that I didn't want
to forfeit.

If you are going to use a 130mm rear axle, i'd suggest using one from
wheels mfg because they are not only high quality and but they do not
have a keyway, hence, they may possibly be stronger than campagnolo.
And, make sure that your derailleur is spaced away from the freewheel
adequately to avoid drivetrain vibrations in all gears. Since I have
only ever broken 1 axle, i cannot draw any further conclusions.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

I have 1 or 2 of the Wheels Mfg. axles that I've acquired over the years.
That's a good point about the keyway weakening the axles. I never thought
about that. I was always concerned that the extra length of threaded
sections would provide more of an opportunity for stress riser failures.

I don't recall ever breaking an axle but I bent a few, especially riding
700c and sewups off road. I switched to nutted track axles in those
situations and that fixed the problem.

I've seen several customers who rode their bikes into our shop with broken
axles and only the QR skewer holding thing together.

Chas.

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

* * Chas said:

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them.

These

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

will be used for casual retro rides.

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

would defeat my purpose.

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my

Campy

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

You only need 126 spacing to run a 7 speed freewheel (all
7 speed FW are "ultra" spacing). If you want to build a 7 sp
freewheel wheel for a 130mm spacing bike, put the extra
4mm of spacers on the non-drive side. The unsupported
axle length on the drive side will be the same as if you'd
built the wheel for 126mm spacing. In other words, the
unsupported axle length should be as small as possible
to accomodate the freewheel, and is not determined by the
frame. You may be able to add the 4mm of spacers to
a 126mm axle (which is really 137mm long) and be able
to use it without replacing the axle.

IME, if you are large or climb a lot, you may still break
axles with a 7 speed freewheel. I'm 170-180 lbs and broke
axles every couple of years on commute/CX bikes.
However, for casual retro rides it should be fine.

Ben

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm breaking my frankenbike tradition on one
of these frames; it's going to be all mid 80s Campy stuff.

I have a set of 130mm road wheels built with Shimano Deore XT MTB hubs and
also several sets of wheels with Phil hubs for heavy duty riding.

These new wheels are mostly for show and vanity.

Chas.

On Apr 18, 9:40 pm, "* * Chas" <[email hidden]> wrote:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm breaking my frankenbike tradition on one
of these frames; it's going to be all mid 80s Campy stuff.

Once upon a time, "Polynesian" restaurant/bars served a drink (Rum
based??) called the Suffering [censored]. Now, the term will make me
think of you on that bike..... ;-)

"Ozark Bicycle" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Apr 18, 9:40 pm, "* * Chas" <[email hidden]> wrote:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm breaking my frankenbike tradition on

one

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

of these frames; it's going to be all mid 80s Campy stuff.

Once upon a time, "Polynesian" restaurant/bars served a drink (Rum
based??) called the Suffering [censored]. Now, the term will make me
think of you on that bike..... ;-)

I even haven't begun to suffer... Both frames are still bare, hanging by
their dropouts.

Chas.

* * Chas said:

I have 1 or 2 of the Wheels Mfg. axles that I've acquired over the years.
That's a good point about the keyway weakening the axles. I never thought
about that. I was always concerned that the extra length of threaded
sections would provide more of an opportunity for stress riser failures.

I don't recall ever breaking an axle but I bent a few, especially riding
700c and sewups off road. I switched to nutted track axles in those
situations and that fixed the problem.

All FW axles with a 7-speed overhang (much less 8-speed) can break
given enough fatigue cycles. It's got more to do with repeated
pedaling
stress than a small number of overloads. There is a FAQ entry
on the subject. I have broken a Wheels Mfg replacement axle, too.
And I'm not one of those people that is always breaking parts -
just axles.

Bent axles are axles that have a crack and haven't yielded all the
way through yet.

Quoted message said:

I've seen several customers who rode their bikes into our shop with broken
axles and only the QR skewer holding thing together.

This is the usual mode. I've ridden a bike like that for several
days' worth of commute because I hadn't got around to fixing
it. It's just annoying and bad for the bearings.

Ben

* * Chas said:

Some questions for you Campy experts.

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them. These
will be used for casual retro rides.

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my Campy
120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

There seems to be over a dozen variations of post R/NR/SR Campy FW hub
models.

I've seen a few 130mm wide NOS Campy FW hubs for sale. Is there any
difference other than cosmetics between the 12+ different freewheel hub
models?

Are the Campy MTB hubs any beefier or are they just road hubs with rubber
covers over the QR lever?

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

The 1034 type Record hub was in constant production from 1960 to 1985-6.
There is no such thing as "Nuovo Record" or "Super Record" aside from a
very short run of ti-axle hubs in early 1974. All were delivered oem.

The Record freewheel hubs after that used the same cups, cones and axles
so yes.
Note not-Record fronts especially later models may use 7/32 or 3/16
systems - observe on disassembly and don't mix those front cones!
Wheels USA axles are superior to the slotted originals and recommended
if you're using >120mm spacing.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

* * Chas said:

"Ozark Bicycle" <[email hidden]> wrote in message

news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

On Apr 18, 9:40 pm, "* * Chas" <[email hidden]> wrote:

Quoted message said:

<snip>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm breaking my frankenbike tradition on

one

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

of these frames; it's going to be all mid 80s Campy stuff.

Quoted message said:

Once upon a time, "Polynesian" restaurant/bars served a drink (Rum
based??) called the Suffering [censored]. Now, the term will make me
think of you on that bike..... ;-)

I even haven't begun to suffer...

Insert Satanic Laughter here:____________________________

Quoted message said:

Both frames are still bare, hanging by
their dropouts.

Repent! There is still time!

* * Chas said:

Some questions for you Campy experts.

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them. These
will be used for casual retro rides.

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my Campy
120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

usually the other way around. A not aligned dropout encouageing a
broken axle.

Quoted message said:

There seems to be over a dozen variations of post R/NR/SR Campy FW hub
models.

I've seen a few 130mm wide NOS Campy FW hubs for sale. Is there any
difference other than cosmetics between the 12+ different freewheel hub
models?

Nope. best is to 'superspce' it, that is, just enough axle on the
right side to support the freewheel, no more. Don't use an 8s
freewheel, 7 seems good. After moving spacers around to get the axle
length right, measure the center to flange, calculate spoke length,
build wheel.

Quoted message said:

Are the Campy MTB hubs any beefier or are they just road hubs with rubber
covers over the QR lever?

Same hubs.

Quoted message said:

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

Chas.

bfd said:

* * Chas said:

Some questions for you Campy experts.

Quoted message said:

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them. These
will be used for casual retro rides.

Quoted message said:

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

Quoted message said:

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my Campy
120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

Quoted message said:

There seems to be over a dozen variations of post R/NR/SR Campy FW hub
models.

Quoted message said:

I've seen a few 130mm wide NOS Campy FW hubs for sale. Is there any
difference other than cosmetics between the 12+ different freewheel hub
models?

Quoted message said:

Are the Campy MTB hubs any beefier or are they just road hubs with rubber
covers over the QR lever?

Quoted message said:

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

As long as you don't break axles, get yourself a Campy Record hubset.
I believe the old SR/NR groups used the same hub, so get the one with
the black clip in the middle that covers the oil port. With grade 25
bearings, it will be smooth.

Alternatively, if you want more "polish," see if you can find yourself
a C-Record hubset.

If you are strong or heavy, then a freewheel-style hub may not be the
best thing to get as you will break axles. If that is the case, then
find get yourself a good cassette hub. Good Luck!

This, along with sleepy winkie on road bikes, is a popular
misconception. I use ONLY frewheel hubs and with the winter and a
gooned up right knee, I'm on the right side of a .1 offa ton. Alingned
dropouts, riding smart, proper axle length....and titanium axles, all
help. haven't broken an axle for years.

"* * Chas" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Some questions for you Campy experts.

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them. These
will be used for casual retro rides.

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my Campy
120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

There seems to be over a dozen variations of post R/NR/SR Campy FW hub
models.

I've seen a few 130mm wide NOS Campy FW hubs for sale. Is there any
difference other than cosmetics between the 12+ different freewheel hub
models?

Are the Campy MTB hubs any beefier or are they just road hubs with rubber
covers over the QR lever?

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but that
would defeat my purpose.

Chas.

I'm not sure if I'm qualified to be a Campagnolo expert, but I do ride the
older
Nuovo/Super Record. I should correct that, some of the components I've up
graded, or some may consider down grading, depending how you look at it.

I've broken two Campy axles when I had my frame coldset spread to
130mm. And I consider two, one too many!
Originally the rear was 126mm. I had it done professionally by
Terry Shaw of Shaw's lightweight bicycles. What I didn't know was by
going to 130mm, it puts the axle at risk for strength. I wished Terry had
told
me this, but I found out the hard way.

I also had a longer axle put in, and the wheel redished to accommodate the
new 130mm spacing.
I'm not a heavy guy, lightweight 140 1lbs, but I climb a lot of hills. The
first
time I broke an axle I didn't even know it until I had a flat on the rear.
When I removed the wheel from the bike, the axle fell apart. I couldn't
believe my eyes. The skewers must have held it together.

Terry suggested that I have the wheel rebuilt correctly instead of just
redished.
So I did has he suggested. About a month later, I broke another axle.
Ok, it was either brake more axles, or coldset the frame back to 126mm,
or go to C-Record hub which is made for the 130mm spacing...

OR: and this really hurt, get rid of the Campagnolo friction shifting, in
favor of Shimano index rear drivetrain. So why not Campagnolo index?
Well, (at that time) you got your budget, and I got mine.

So I'm still riding the same Reynolds 531 frame from 1977. I've tried other
bikes since, but this is the one I'm currently riding and I just can't seem
to give up. It has the 9sp Shimano Ultegra downtube index shifters from
years ago, but it's never missed a shift, and no broken axles.

People tell me that I need a new bike, but it goes in one ear and out the
other.
I also hear from the Campy purist, that too bad it has Shimano parts on
the bike. I see it as, well I guess they're not the ones riding it.
ps.....I love to ride.
-tom

"Tom Nakashima" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

"* * Chas" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Some questions for you Campy experts.

I have several retro road frames with 130mm rear spacing and some NOS
Suntour Ultra Winner 7 speed freewheels that I want to use on them.

These

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

will be used for casual retro rides.

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

would defeat my purpose.

I have some after market rear axles that will allow me to convert my

Campy

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

120/126mm hubs to 130mm but there's the possibility of damaging the
dropout from a broken rear axle.

There seems to be over a dozen variations of post R/NR/SR Campy FW hub
models.

I've seen a few 130mm wide NOS Campy FW hubs for sale. Is there any
difference other than cosmetics between the 12+ different freewheel

hub

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

models?

Are the Campy MTB hubs any beefier or are they just road hubs with

rubber

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

covers over the QR lever?

The easy fix is to use one of my 6. 7 or 8 speed Shimano wheels but

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

would defeat my purpose.

Chas.

I'm not sure if I'm qualified to be a Campagnolo expert, but I do ride

the

Quoted message said:

older
Nuovo/Super Record. I should correct that, some of the components I've

up

Quoted message said:

graded, or some may consider down grading, depending how you look at it.

I've broken two Campy axles when I had my frame coldset spread to
130mm. And I consider two, one too many!
Originally the rear was 126mm. I had it done professionally by
Terry Shaw of Shaw's lightweight bicycles. What I didn't know was by
going to 130mm, it puts the axle at risk for strength. I wished Terry

had

Quoted message said:

told
me this, but I found out the hard way.

I also had a longer axle put in, and the wheel redished to accommodate

the

Quoted message said:

new 130mm spacing.
I'm not a heavy guy, lightweight 140 1lbs, but I climb a lot of hills.

The

Quoted message said:

first
time I broke an axle I didn't even know it until I had a flat on the

rear.

Quoted message said:

When I removed the wheel from the bike, the axle fell apart. I couldn't
believe my eyes. The skewers must have held it together.

Terry suggested that I have the wheel rebuilt correctly instead of just
redished.
So I did has he suggested. About a month later, I broke another axle.
Ok, it was either brake more axles, or coldset the frame back to 126mm,
or go to C-Record hub which is made for the 130mm spacing...

OR: and this really hurt, get rid of the Campagnolo friction shifting,

in

Quoted message said:

favor of Shimano index rear drivetrain. So why not Campagnolo index?
Well, (at that time) you got your budget, and I got mine.

So I'm still riding the same Reynolds 531 frame from 1977. I've tried

other

Quoted message said:

bikes since, but this is the one I'm currently riding and I just can't

seem

Quoted message said:

to give up. It has the 9sp Shimano Ultegra downtube index shifters from
years ago, but it's never missed a shift, and no broken axles.

People tell me that I need a new bike, but it goes in one ear and out

the

Quoted message said:

other.
I also hear from the Campy purist, that too bad it has Shimano parts on
the bike. I see it as, well I guess they're not the ones riding it.
ps.....I love to ride.
-tom

That was really one of my original questions - re-phrased, are 130mm
C-record or Campy MTB FW hubs any better than just putting a longer axle
and spacers in a standard Campy FW hub.

I'm going to build some "vanity" wheels with Campy FW hubs and sewups for
flat, short rides on smooth roads. I don't break spokes and the only axles
I've bent were on cheap 1970s Bike Boom wheels or from riding off road.

I have several well built rear clincher wheels with 130mm Shimano 7 and 8
speed cassettes that I plan to use for any serious ride I might take on
these bikes.

I can shift them quite well with standard derailleurs and downtube
friction shifters although I did put a set of Suntour 7 speed index levers
and a Shimano STI derailleur on one of my 7 speed bikes. It works great
but I fear that it's going to make me lazy.

Because of the retro aspect, these bikes are going to be full Campy
whereas all of my other rides are frankenbikes, built with different
brands of components to suite my whims at the time.

Aside from the cost of Campy freehubs and cassettes, I already have a box
full of Shimano cassettes and spare cogs plus lots of FWs so I don't want
to get started on a new system.

I check the frame, fork and dropout alignment on an alignment table on all
of the bikes I assemble. I adjust them to within .010" (.25mm). It makes
for better handling and shifting bikes.

Chas.

bfd said:

As long as you don't break axles, get yourself a Campy Record hubset.
I believe the old SR/NR groups used the same hub, so get the one with
the black clip in the middle that covers the oil port. With grade 25
bearings, it will be smooth.
Alternatively, if you want more "polish," see if you can find yourself
a C-Record hubset.
If you are strong or heavy, then a freewheel-style hub may not be the
best thing to get as you will break axles. If that is the case, then
find get yourself a good cassette hub. Good Luck!

I have several Campy Record hubs-both high and low flange-spaced 130
with Wheels Manufacturing axles. I've never bent or broken one and I'm
6'3" and weigh 215. Properly aligned dropouts ensure that you don't
bend or break axles.
Phil Brown