looking for strong rim suggestions

MA3, unanodized. If still available.
I weigh about 200lb

guy said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

What is heavy and what is cheap?

Joseph

guy said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

Velocity Dyads about $80ish IIRC, double wall with a medium V
cross-section. And made in Australia too!

Cheers

Joel

guy said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

I haven't actually used one (hefty 700c) yet, but in building up a set
of clinchers for the new cross bike, I did some looking and found
these relatively wide 700c rim brake rims to chose from. From what I
can tell, the std width ~19mm wide rims are pretty much recommended
for tires up to only about 28c wide, while 24mm wide rims are intended
to be used for tires in the range of 28-38mm and larger width. You
could probably find a heavy strong std-width narrower rim, but the
wider stuff is gaining acceptance I think, at least with MTN, and I
know I'll put more tire on the ground with the wider rim, which is
good. I use a 44mm width for my 2.3" winter studs to keep from
sinking in the snow and getting better grip/ground contact.

make/model width(mm) weight (g) shape appr price
---------------- ------ ---------- ----- ----------
DT Swiss TK 7.1 23.6 540 classic box $70
IRD Clyde 24.0 570 box $33
Mavic A719 24.5 567 box $75
Velocity Dyad 24.0 480 V $48

The Mavic A719 looks like a big Mavic Open Pro, while the Velocity Dyad
looks like a big Velocity Aerohead, or Mavic CXP33

They're mostly advertised as for Cross/Hybrid/29" MTN/loaded touring,
but the Dyad's almost light enough to make a reasonable road training
rim for wide comfortable tires.

I chose the Dyad, for 1) Velocity reputation, 2) great strength for
the weight due to V shape, 3) good price, and 4) height of V shape
keeps mud off rim and spokeholes. Hubs are new (5 yr old unbuilt) Ebay
King classic wide front ($70), new '06 record rear, and wheelsmith
2.0/1.7.

Bill Westphal

guy said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

Velocity Deep V, Dyad, Mavic T520...

obviously the mavic product line is the way to go here.
universally endured, tested and reviewed by internet riders of all
faiths and creeds

guy said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

Any of the lower end Alex rims with double walls are bullet proof if
built well. The alloy is stronger than that used by Velocity and Mavic
AFAIK, and my personal rides have used such rims for years. I've never
had any problems with them. I've only built three wheels with them,
but they seemed round and pretty easy to deal with.

The Adventurer is $22, available in 26" or 700c, and will take quite a
bit of abuse.
http://tinyurl.com/35at23

The R390 rim is also good @ $35, but only available in a 32H drilling
from AE Bike:
http://tinyurl.com/2jpfsr

I've also had Ace19/18 and DA18s that came OEM on bikes, and never had
an issue with them after a proper tensioning. If you can find them,
they're dirt cheap and very very tough. Probably in the $20 range.

Others have suggested Velocity. Good rims, but you can get two Alex
rims for the price of a Velocity. It's a no-brainer as far as I'm
concerned.

Quoted message said:

obviously the mavic product line is the way to go here.
universally endured, tested and reviewed by internet riders of all
faiths and creeds

what i'm interested to see is whether anyone asks the much more
fundamental question: what kind of freakin' bike is this "strong rim"
supposed to be for??? could be a 3" unicycle or a chalomobile for all
we know.

guy said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

I'm 235 and have had good luck with the Sun CR-18 (<$30). Alex rims are
good (for cheap strength), too.

the question reappears every 14 days or less in the runup to getting
out on spring's road. Is the basis for the phenomena a low cutoff fr
deign parametrs: like the too short pedal shafts? get the torchs!
i began life with steel rims of a 26" 3 speed raleigh: no problems.
and no HD load on the rear rack. I'm 165.
Then 40lbs rear rack with a single wall 27" aftermarket tiwanese
brought 100% increased maintenance but NO wheel failures. freewheel
axle failures! expletive deleted.
the following cured all problems: cr-18, dt spokes + dt nipples at 6mm
linseeded,(looking to a pro dt nipple upgrade with 14-15-14 spokes),
deore+ rear hub, hub/spokes lubed with Finish Line wax/teflon dry
lube, grade 25 bearings in Finish Line grease, Wheels Mfg 130+ mm axle
with linseed, Harris custom axle nuts with linseed, metric fender
washers, dropout backup insert from loosescrews, panaracer messenger
or conti contact, TT as less load read left to right, specialized
thornproof tubes, truing stand from rear suntour triangle mounted on
2x5' 1/2 ply, spokey nipple tool, one copy brandt's BW, sheldon
brown.parsec1 wheels, continuing internet information stream. and off
course ride with caution.

In article <[email hidden]>,

jim beam said:

Quoted message said:

obviously the mavic product line is the way to go here. universally
endured, tested and reviewed by internet riders of all faiths and
creeds

what i'm interested to see is whether anyone asks the much more
fundamental question: what kind of freakin' bike is this "strong rim"
supposed to be for??? could be a 3" unicycle or a chalomobile for
all we know.

LOL! Very good point, jim. Without knowing the actual application,
it's hard to give advice.

"Chalomobile." I like it. What rims does Chalo use, anyway? I can't
recall.

Tim McNamara said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

jim beam said:

Quoted message said:

obviously the mavic product line is the way to go here. universally
endured, tested and reviewed by internet riders of all faiths and
creeds

what i'm interested to see is whether anyone asks the much more
fundamental question: what kind of freakin' bike is this "strong rim"
supposed to be for??? could be a 3" unicycle or a chalomobile for
all we know.

LOL! Very good point, jim. Without knowing the actual application,
it's hard to give advice.

"Chalomobile." I like it. What rims does Chalo use, anyway? I can't
recall.

why does the expression "brown nose" come to mind?

Quoted post said:

the question reappears every 14 days or less in the runup to getting
out on spring's road. Is the basis for the phenomena a low cutoff fr
deign parametrs: like the too short pedal shafts? get the torchs!
i began life with steel rims of a 26" 3 speed raleigh: no problems.
and no HD load on the rear rack. I'm 165.
Then 40lbs rear rack with a single wall 27" aftermarket tiwanese
brought 100% increased maintenance but NO wheel failures. freewheel
axle failures! expletive deleted.
the following cured all problems: cr-18, dt spokes + dt nipples at 6mm
linseeded,(looking to a pro dt nipple upgrade with 14-15-14 spokes),
deore+ rear hub, hub/spokes lubed with Finish Line wax/teflon dry
lube, grade 25 bearings in Finish Line grease, Wheels Mfg 130+ mm axle
with linseed, Harris custom axle nuts with linseed, metric fender
washers, dropout backup insert from loosescrews, panaracer messenger
or conti contact, TT as less load read left to right, specialized
thornproof tubes, truing stand from rear suntour triangle mounted on
2x5' 1/2 ply, spokey nipple tool, one copy brandt's BW, sheldon
brown.parsec1 wheels, continuing internet information stream. and off
course ride with caution.

also: the inside tire, tube, and outised tire walls are now coated
with CRC HD Silicone and the clincher area inside the rim. part of the
maintenance interval is rotating tube and tire with a soapy tub
brushing cleaning the dirt of the outside tire wall and cleaning the
inside clincher area. the rim is coated with brake prep-belt dressing
over the silicone.
tire is pumped to 90-100 pounds with walmart auto floor pump at $10.

a question on the torchs: most of the serious riders i run into are
not F1 jockey types. The SR seems to be in the upper area of heft/size/
weight amung the general pop. Do we see again, a euro/asian design
parameter? Trek and Cannondale, are USA frames sized differently than
say Bianchi? are the wheel setups heavier? are Surley's wheel setups
heavier

In article <2007040702473316807-user@superhoostcom>,

guy said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

I am not a heavy rider, but I have something to say. I
was in a reliable shop talking with a guy who works on
bikes. We were chatting and he noticed the Sun CR18
rims on my bike. He said he builds them often for heavy
riders, that they come round from the factory, and the
wheels he builds do not come back to the shop. I said
that some Sun rims were reported to be circular pieces
of tinfoil. He said that this sadly had been the case,
but the CR18 are not in that category.

I personally speak for the CR18. Round and reliable.
They are inexpensive (relatively) as well. It is a
double wall box section rim with single eylets.

Somebody said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

The Sun CR-18 is a favorite of mine, available in more sizes than any
other model that I know of.

I'm also partial to the Mavic Open Pro, if you're talking the 622 mm
size.

Note that "heavier riders" do NOT necessarily need anything special as
far as rim strength. Good wheels get their strength mainly from the
spokes, not from the rigidity of the rims.

There are different kinds of rim damage possible. If you are talking
about the wheel going out of true, that's generally going to be a
spoke problem.

If you're talking about the rim getting dented, that's a tire
problem! It indicates either that you need a wider tire, or that you
need more air pressure in the tires you're using.

I weigh 250 lbs and have NEVER found ANY rim that was too light/
fragile for me.

Sheldon "It Isn't The Rims" Brown
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
| Oh freddled gruntbuggly |
| thy micturations are to me |
| As plurdled gabbleblotchits on a lurgid bee. |
| Groop I implore thee, my foonting turlingdromes. |
| And hooptiously drangle me with crinkly bind-lewurdles, |
| Or I will rend thee in the gobberwarts with my |
| blurglecruncheon, see if I don't! |
| -- Prostetnic Vogon Jeltz |
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041
http://harriscyclery.com
Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com

Quoted post said:

Quoted post said:

the question reappears every 14 days or less in the runup to getting
out on spring's road. Is the basis for the phenomena a low cutoff fr
deign parametrs: like the too short pedal shafts? get the torchs!
i began life with steel rims of a 26" 3 speed raleigh: no problems.
and no HD load on the rear rack. I'm 165.
Then 40lbs rear rack with a single wall 27" aftermarket tiwanese
brought 100% increased maintenance but NO wheel failures. freewheel
axle failures! expletive deleted.
the following cured all problems: cr-18, dt spokes + dt nipples at 6mm
linseeded,(looking to a pro dt nipple upgrade with 14-15-14 spokes),
deore+ rear hub, hub/spokes lubed with Finish Line wax/teflon dry
lube, grade 25 bearings in Finish Line grease, Wheels Mfg 130+ mm axle
with linseed, Harris custom axle nuts with linseed, metric fender
washers, dropout backup insert from loosescrews, panaracer messenger
or conti contact, TT as less load read left to right, specialized
thornproof tubes, truing stand from rear suntour triangle mounted on
2x5' 1/2 ply, spokey nipple tool, one copy brandt's BW, sheldon
brown.parsec1 wheels, continuing internet information stream. and off
course ride with caution.

also: the inside tire, tube, and outised tire walls are now coated
with CRC HD Silicone and the clincher area inside the rim. part of the
maintenance interval is rotating tube and tire with a soapy tub
brushing cleaning the dirt of the outside tire wall and cleaning the
inside clincher area. the rim is coated with brake prep-belt dressing
over the silicone.
tire is pumped to 90-100 pounds with walmart auto floor pump at $10.

a question on the torchs: most of the serious riders i run into are
not F1 jockey types. The SR seems to be in the upper area of heft/size/
weight amung the general pop. Do we see again, a euro/asian design
parameter? Trek and Cannondale, are USA frames sized differently than
say Bianchi? are the wheel setups heavier? are Surley's wheel setups
heavier

You are a veritable sinkhole of information. Are you a librarian?
I'm always reminded of the programmers editor Emacs function
"dissasociated press" while reading your musings, but am now starting
to suspect a complex Markov chain at work:

http://www.gnu.org/software/emacs/manual/html_node/Dissociated-Press.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Markov_chain

guy said:

A heavier rider is looking for suggestions for a cheap (within reason)
but strong rim. What have you used?

Alex rims are the ticket. Seek out the DM18 or Adventurer for a 700c
rim, the DM24 for a 26", 24", or 20" rim. These cost $20 to $30 a
whack, and they feature better materials than most "premium" rims.

Chalo

In article <[email hidden]>,

jim beam said:

Tim McNamara said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

jim beam said:

[email hidden] wrote:
> obviously the mavic product line is the way to go here.
> universally endured, tested and reviewed by internet riders of
> all faiths and creeds
>
what i'm interested to see is whether anyone asks the much more
fundamental question: what kind of freakin' bike is this "strong
rim" supposed to be for??? could be a 3" unicycle or a
chalomobile for all we know.

LOL! Very good point, jim. Without knowing the actual
application, it's hard to give advice.

"Chalomobile." I like it. What rims does Chalo use, anyway? I
can't recall.

why does the expression "brown nose" come to mind?

Because you're a paranoid egotist searching for the hidden agenda in
anything I write in response to you? Your post gave me a chuckle and
made me wonder what rims Chalo uses, that's all. Don't worry, I still
think of you with the same respect I always have.

Anyway, what rims does Chalo use?

Tim McNamara said:

In article <[email hidden]>,

jim beam said:

Tim McNamara said:

In article <[email hidden]>,
jim beam <[email hidden]> wrote:

> [email hidden] wrote:
>> obviously the mavic product line is the way to go here.
>> universally endured, tested and reviewed by internet riders of
>> all faiths and creeds
>>
> what i'm interested to see is whether anyone asks the much more
> fundamental question: what kind of freakin' bike is this "strong
> rim" supposed to be for??? could be a 3" unicycle or a
> chalomobile for all we know.
LOL! Very good point, jim. Without knowing the actual
application, it's hard to give advice.

"Chalomobile." I like it. What rims does Chalo use, anyway? I
can't recall.

why does the expression "brown nose" come to mind?

Because you're a paranoid egotist searching for the hidden agenda in
anything I write in response to you? Your post gave me a chuckle and
made me wonder what rims Chalo uses, that's all. Don't worry, I still
think of you with the same respect I always have.

Anyway, what rims does Chalo use?

He confirmed my recollection, Alex rims.

Greg

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