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Rear derailleur shift problem - changer barrel shifter adjustment?

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6 April 2007
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  1. 8-speed cassette, no front derailleur
    SRAM MRX Comp Grip Shift
    Rear derailleur, chain and chain ring, clean and lubed
    All components relatively new (11 months or less) - chain 1 month old
    - 300 road miles per month (daily commuting in Chicago, all weather)

    I am having a little trouble with my rear derailleur. I am hoping that
    someone can take a minute to help me understand what is going on. I am
    new to bike repair/maintenance, so don't assume that I know anything
    at all. My goal is to learn more about repair/maintenance, so I can
    eventually do most stuff myself, except for headsets.

    My rear derailleur would not always shift properly when going anywhere
    from 6 to 3 (one gear at a time). I had to go too far and then come
    back; this workaround always worked fine. I could always upshift (1 to
    8) perfectly. Could always shift between 7-8 and 1-2 fine, in either
    direction. I visually compared this cassette with a brand new
    cassette, and could not see any obvious wear difference between the
    two.

    My solution (which I blindly stumbled on in desperation) was to turn
    the barrel shifter on the gear shift several turns counter-clockwise.

    So I have two questions:

    1. My understanding is, tuning the barrel shifter on the changer
    changes the 'indexing' of the shifter, which essentially changes how
    much the derailleur moves between cogs. Is this correct?

    2. Also, is this the correct way to solve this problem?

    TIA - J.

  2. Quoted message said:

    8-speed cassette, no front derailleur
    SRAM MRX Comp Grip Shift
    Rear derailleur, chain and chain ring, clean and lubed
    All components relatively new (11 months or less) - chain 1 month old
    - 300 road miles per month (daily commuting in Chicago, all weather)

    I am having a little trouble with my rear derailleur. I am hoping that
    someone can take a minute to help me understand what is going on. I am
    new to bike repair/maintenance, so don't assume that I know anything
    at all. My goal is to learn more about repair/maintenance, so I can
    eventually do most stuff myself, except for headsets.

    My rear derailleur would not always shift properly when going anywhere
    from 6 to 3 (one gear at a time). I had to go too far and then come
    back; this workaround always worked fine. I could always upshift (1 to
    8) perfectly. Could always shift between 7-8 and 1-2 fine, in either
    direction. I visually compared this cassette with a brand new
    cassette, and could not see any obvious wear difference between the
    two.

    My solution (which I blindly stumbled on in desperation) was to turn
    the barrel shifter on the gear shift several turns counter-clockwise.

    So I have two questions:

    1. My understanding is, tuning the barrel shifter on the changer
    changes the 'indexing' of the shifter, which essentially changes how
    much the derailleur moves between cogs. Is this correct?

    2. Also, is this the correct way to solve this problem?

    TIA - J.


    Maybe I can help. I'll try.

    When you speak of gear numbers, the lowest gear (1) is next to the
    spokes and the highest gear (8) is on the outside. In service, we
    normally speak of "inside" and "outside" for clarity.

    I believe you mean the changer moves freely (changer is neither twisted
    nor broken and the control cable is both free and unkinked) but that the
    'clicks' in your lever no longer correspond to the actual steps across
    your cassette. Is that the problem?

    If so, begin by ensuring your chain is oiled and each link moves freely.

    If there was a recent trauma, sight the chain while backpedalling to
    ensure there are no damaged or twisted links - each link should look
    like every other in profile while backpedalling. Stop and cure a visibly
    damaged chain before riding.

    It's always nice to check the control wire. Modern bikes have a slotted
    stop so the casing may be pulled out, leaving the wire slack. Pull the
    casing back, wipe the wire looking for kinks or frayed areas and wipe
    with oil before snapping the casing back in place. Check the under-bike
    nylon guide for dirt/crud and add a drop of oil there as well. Note the
    small piece of casing by the rear changer is prone to dirt/rust/kinks
    more than other areas.

    Change to high gear and get your head behind the changer by moving
    either you or the bike. Is a line through the rollers vertical, i.e.,
    parallel to the front sprocket? If bent, align it or get assistance with
    that. A bent changer will not shift well and risks serious damage to
    your wheel and/or frame.

    If all that seems well, shift to one of the middle gears[*]. If the
    changer is not exactly under the sprocket, it will be noisy. Your cable
    setting coordinates the lever with the changer. Making the wire tighter
    moves the changer inward, looser moves out. Turn an adjuster (either at
    the lever or at the changer) until the changer lines up either visually
    or audibly or both. If it seems well, go ride around the block and
    ensure it's acceptable.

    Assuming it was all OK before you turned an adjuster, it should be easy
    to rectify. If you turned the adjuster because it was noisy after being
    bent or damaged, you can reset the adjustment but the underlying problem
    will remain. That's why I suggested you check for a bent derailleur
    early. If it is bent, you risk shifting into the wheel with resultant
    major (expensive) damage.

    more gear and other bike advice is in our FAQ:
    http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/index.html

    [*] If you do not have a bike stand or cannot hang the bike for gear
    service, ask a friend to stand on the left side of your bike, hold the
    front brake tight and lift the bike by the saddle. This is not strenuous
    and provides a convenient way to see what you are doing.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    www.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

  3. A Muzi said:
    Quoted message said:

    8-speed cassette, no front derailleur
    SRAM MRX Comp Grip Shift
    Rear derailleur, chain and chain ring, clean and lubed
    All components relatively new (11 months or less) - chain 1 month old
    - 300 road miles per month (daily commuting in Chicago, all weather)

    Quoted message said:

    I am having a little trouble with my rear derailleur. I am hoping that
    someone can take a minute to help me understand what is going on. I am
    new to bike repair/maintenance, so don't assume that I know anything
    at all. My goal is to learn more about repair/maintenance, so I can
    eventually do most stuff myself, except for headsets.

    Quoted message said:

    My rear derailleur would not always shift properly when going anywhere
    from 6 to 3 (one gear at a time). I had to go too far and then come
    back; this workaround always worked fine. I could always upshift (1 to
    8) perfectly. Could always shift between 7-8 and 1-2 fine, in either
    direction. I visually compared this cassette with a brand new
    cassette, and could not see any obvious wear difference between the
    two.

    Quoted message said:

    My solution (which I blindly stumbled on in desperation) was to turn
    the barrel shifter on the gear shift several turns counter-clockwise.

    Quoted message said:

    So I have two questions:

    Quoted message said:

    1. My understanding is, tuning the barrel shifter on the changer
    changes the 'indexing' of the shifter, which essentially changes how
    much the derailleur moves between cogs. Is this correct?

    Quoted message said:

    2. Also, is this the correct way to solve this problem?

    Quoted message said:

    TIA - J.

    Maybe I can help. I'll try.

    When you speak of gear numbers, the lowest gear (1) is next to the
    spokes and the highest gear (8) is on the outside. In service, we
    normally speak of "inside" and "outside" for clarity.

    I believe you mean the changer moves freely (changer is neither twisted
    nor broken and the control cable is both free and unkinked) but that the
    'clicks' in your lever no longer correspond to the actual steps across
    your cassette. Is that the problem?

    If so, begin by ensuring your chain is oiled and each link moves freely.

    If there was a recent trauma, sight the chain while backpedalling to
    ensure there are no damaged or twisted links - each link should look
    like every other in profile while backpedalling. Stop and cure a visibly
    damaged chain before riding.

    It's always nice to check the control wire. Modern bikes have a slotted
    stop so the casing may be pulled out, leaving the wire slack. Pull the
    casing back, wipe the wire looking for kinks or frayed areas and wipe
    with oil before snapping the casing back in place. Check the under-bike
    nylon guide for dirt/crud and add a drop of oil there as well. Note the
    small piece of casing by the rear changer is prone to dirt/rust/kinks
    more than other areas.

    Change to high gear and get your head behind the changer by moving
    either you or the bike. Is a line through the rollers vertical, i.e.,
    parallel to the front sprocket? If bent, align it or get assistance with
    that. A bent changer will not shift well and risks serious damage to
    your wheel and/or frame.

    If all that seems well, shift to one of the middle gears[*]. If the
    changer is not exactly under the sprocket, it will be noisy. Your cable
    setting coordinates the lever with the changer. Making the wire tighter
    moves the changer inward, looser moves out. Turn an adjuster (either at
    the lever or at the changer) until the changer lines up either visually
    or audibly or both. If it seems well, go ride around the block and
    ensure it's acceptable.

    Assuming it was all OK before you turned an adjuster, it should be easy
    to rectify. If you turned the adjuster because it was noisy after being
    bent or damaged, you can reset the adjustment but the underlying problem
    will remain. That's why I suggested you check for a bent derailleur
    early. If it is bent, you risk shifting into the wheel with resultant
    major (expensive) damage.

    more gear and other bike advice is in our FAQ:http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/index.html

    [*] If you do not have a bike stand or cannot hang the bike for gear
    service, ask a friend to stand on the left side of your bike, hold the
    front brake tight and lift the bike by the saddle. This is not strenuous
    and provides a convenient way to see what you are doing.
    --
    Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971
    --
    Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

    Thanks for your detailed reply Andrew,

    I do have a bike stand, so I am going to check the things you
    mentioned next week.

    I know my derailleur cable housing has always been too short (it came
    like that when the 1-year-old bike was new). The loop where the
    housing enters the barrel adjuster is way too tight radius. In this
    link http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=113 , my cable
    looks much more like the 'short housing' pic than the 'good housing'
    pic. I think a new cable, and new quality housing cut to the correct
    length, will help. In addition, I carelessly pinched the OEM cable
    housing some time ago when I folded the bike. I think perhaps the
    cable is not able to slide freely inside the housing for that reason
    also. So I am going to replace the cable and housing myself in the
    next couple weeks. Then I will have a better idea of what is going on.
    Right now, the problem just has too many unknown variables.

    I am a little upset with Bike Friday for cutting the housing too
    short, but the Park link says this mistake is 'typical new bike
    housing length'. So I guess they all do it - J.

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