Re: V-brakes on STI levers?

"vernon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

Have you tried Koolstop Salmon pads. I've not had a sqeal from my
brakes since I fitted them to my Dawes Galaxy three years ago.

Got them on the front now. Howling like a banshee.

Something is at resonance I suspect - pads do make a difference to some
extent - as does changing the angle - for about 200 miles. Then the howl
starts again, sooner if it's wet. The only common factor is the forks and
shorties.

It's driving me nuts.

Anyone used the Shimano br550's?

Cheers,

Tim

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vernon said the following on 04/04/2007 09:20:

Quoted message said:

Have you tried Koolstop Salmon pads. I've not had a sqeal from my brakes
since I fitted them to my Dawes Galaxy three years ago.

I've got them on my tourer/commuter and they do work really well. I do
get a slight squeak from the front in the damp until they dry (just a
couple of seconds), but not enough to worry about. If I was worried
about it I'm sure I could adjust it away!

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

"Tim Dunne" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

"vernon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]

Quoted message said:

Have you tried Koolstop Salmon pads. I've not had a sqeal from my
brakes since I fitted them to my Dawes Galaxy three years ago.

Got them on the front now. Howling like a banshee.

Something is at resonance I suspect - pads do make a difference to some
extent - as does changing the angle - for about 200 miles. Then the howl
starts again, sooner if it's wet. The only common factor is the forks and
shorties.

You have my sympathy. The Shimano cantis on my s/h Galaxy made horrendous
noises until I fitted the Koolstops. In a different thread, someone was
asking about disk brake squeal and one of the recommendations was putting
copaslip high temperature grease between the pad and the piston to deaden
any resonance. The resonance of your brakes might be altered or reduced if
you greased the pivots with something like copaslip. If the experiment
fails, you'll still have a useful grease which can be used as an anti-seize
compound for all of your screwthreaded components on your bike.

-=V=-

vernon wrote:
In a different thread, someone was

Quoted message said:

asking about disk brake squeal and one of the recommendations was putting
copaslip high temperature grease between the pad and the piston to deaden
any resonance. The resonance of your brakes might be altered or reduced if
you greased the pivots with something like copaslip. If the experiment
fails, you'll still have a useful grease which can be used as an anti-seize
compound for all of your screwthreaded components on your bike.

I don't think the cantipivots will reach a temperature where the high
temp properties will be a factor, which is the reason you put it on the
back of a diskbrakepad instead of a grease which goes runny.

On a practical note, i'm no fan of coppercolored stains 😉

--
---
Marten Gerritsen

INFOapestaartjeM-GINEERINGpuntNL
www.m-gineering.nl

"M-gineering" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

vernon wrote:

Quoted message said:

I don't think the cantipivots will reach a temperature where the high temp
properties will be a factor, which is the reason you put it on the back of
a diskbrakepad instead of a grease which goes runny.

It wasn't for its temperature resistance but for its stickiness and
vibration dampening effect that I suggested it.

Quoted message said:

On a practical note, i'm no fan of coppercolored stains 😉

Nothing that a rag won't wipe away. ;-)

"vernon" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

You have my sympathy. The Shimano cantis on my s/h Galaxy made
horrendous noises until I fitted the Koolstops.

Oh bugger. I've just ordered some simano 550's from the LBS. Here's
hoping...

Quoted message said:

In a different
thread, someone was asking about disk brake squeal and one of the
recommendations was putting copaslip high temperature grease between
the pad and the piston to deaden any resonance. The resonance of your
brakes might be altered or reduced if you greased the pivots with
something like copaslip. If the experiment fails, you'll still have
a useful grease which can be used as an anti-seize compound for all
of your screwthreaded components on your bike.

I'll try that. I observed early on (this has been going on for nearly 2
years) that removing the arms and greasing the pivots with red weldite
grease helped a little, but I've never been entirely happy with the amount
of front-to-back play in the shorties. I'm kind of hoping the answer lies in
the weight and shape of the shorties resulting in resonance, and that
changing to a different brake arm may alter a tuned system, as it were.

This isn't a minor irritation, it scares people half to death... you tickle
the brakes at 5mph and folks thing you're bearing down on them at high
speed...

Thanks for your help, everone.

Tim
--
Sent from Birmingham, UK... Check out www.nervouscyclist.org
'I find sometimes it’s easy to be myself, but sometimes I find it’s
better to be somebody else.' - Dave Matthews 'So Much To Say'
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Tim Dunne said the following on 04/04/2007 22:55:

Quoted message said:

This isn't a minor irritation, it scares people half to death... you tickle
the brakes at 5mph and folks thing you're bearing down on them at high
speed...

That sounds like a positive bonus for use on the cyclepaths around here ;-)

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

On Wed, 04 Apr 2007 21:55:09 GMT, "Tim Dunne"
<[email hidden]> wrote:

<squealing brakes>

Quoted message said:

This isn't a minor irritation, it scares people half to death... you tickle
the brakes at 5mph and folks thing you're bearing down on them at high
speed...

Heard that sort of thing before. I was on an audax a few years back
with a friend. His cantis squealed like a banshee.

We rounded a corner on a downhill. Ahead is a horse.

Does he (a) slow down to avoid frightening a tonne and half of
horseflesh (b) not use the brakes to, umm, avoid frightening a tonne
and a half of horseflesh?

Tim, another one.

"Tim Hall" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

Does he (a) slow down to avoid frightening a tonne and half of
horseflesh (b) not use the brakes to, umm, avoid frightening a tonne
and a half of horseflesh?

Aha! Exactly my problem - but hopefully, no more. I've just picked up and
fitted a set of Shimano r550's from freindly local LBS[1], with cartridge
holders which sound and feel better. I'v had this kind of false dawn before,
but hopefully I'll not be fiddling with the problem any longer.

Thanks to all the helped and offered suggestions. It's what t'internet
(makes typing gesture) was invented for.

Quoted message said:

Tim, another one.

All the best people are called Tim.

Tim
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Sent from Birmingham, UK... Check out www.nervouscyclist.org
'I find sometimes it's easy to be myself, but sometimes I find it's
better to be somebody else.' - Dave Matthews 'So Much To Say'
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In article <[email hidden]>, Tim Dunne
[email hidden] says...
<snip>

Quoted message said:

I'll try that. I observed early on (this has been going on for nearly 2
years) that removing the arms and greasing the pivots with red weldite
grease helped a little, but I've never been entirely happy with the amount
of front-to-back play in the shorties.

So did you try shimming them? Also I wonder how effective a few turns
of PTFE tape would be for taking some slack out of the system.

"Rob Morley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
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Quoted message said:

So did you try shimming them? Also I wonder how effective a few turns
of PTFE tape would be for taking some slack out of the system.

Yeah, I tried fibre washers. The play itself was not on the boss (between
the whole arm assmbly and the mounting on the frame) but front to rear on
the bush - i.e. with the arm assembly mounted solidly on the boss, the arm
would move maybe 30 thou front to back on its' pivot. Investigating, I tried
fibre packers (made from gasket cork) between the mounting screw and arm. It
stopped the play but the howl remained.

Upon fitting the new shimano's, there's a little play (maybe 5-8 thou) in
them also, but apart from a little light squeak on bedding in, I've been 70
miles with them today and they've been fine.

If this has cracked the problem (and I'm yet to be convinced) I think it's
probably caused by the geometry of the for and brake arms, and little else.

PTFE, now there's a thought... I'll remember that.

Thanks for you input,

Tim
--
Sent from Birmingham, UK... Check out www.nervouscyclist.org
'I find sometimes it's easy to be myself, but sometimes I find it's
better to be somebody else.' - Dave Matthews 'So Much To Say'
My 'reply to' address is valid, mail to the posting address is dumped