Old style wheel spacing question

Rob W said:

I recently had an older frame fail, which was setup with 7-speed Dura-
Ace freewheels on tubular wheels.

A replacement has been found, but the frame rear spacing is 130mm,
rather than 126mm. Although the replacement came with Campagnolo 8-
speed (cassette, I believe), I would like to use the very nice 7-speed
rear wheels I have.

I would imagine that I might be able to add 2mm spacers to either side
and call it a day, but I'd prefer a recommendation that wouldn't
stress the rear axle further. Suggestions on the best approach here?

If the new frame is steel, just compress it a bit; no problem. This is
not so good an idea with carbon; in that case, breaking an axle is the
better alternative.

Your 7-speed should shift find with the 8-speed shifter.

Quoted message said:

One other thing - the spokes are tied and soldered on the non-drive
side, which might make re-dishing the wheel interesting.

Nah, no problem.

--

David L. Johnson

"Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The common
welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance, and
benevolence, were, all, my business. The dealings of my trade were but
a drop of water in the comprehensive ocean of my business!" --Dickens,

Rob W said:

I recently had an older frame fail, which was setup with 7-speed Dura-
Ace freewheels on tubular wheels.

A replacement has been found, but the frame rear spacing is 130mm,
rather than 126mm. Although the replacement came with Campagnolo 8-
speed (cassette, I believe), I would like to use the very nice 7-speed
rear wheels I have.

I would imagine that I might be able to add 2mm spacers to either side
and call it a day, but I'd prefer a recommendation that wouldn't
stress the rear axle further. Suggestions on the best approach here?

One other thing - the spokes are tied and soldered on the non-drive
side, which might make re-dishing the wheel interesting.

If the frame's aluminum or carbon , yes respace the axle. Check that the
rim is centered over the locknuts, correct as needed. The wire wrapped
at the spoke crosses won't affect anything(OK, it weighs something. . .)

If the frame's steel and you are committed to 126 format I'd simply have
the alignment checked and centered at 126. As in all things cycling,
many paths, many choices.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Rob W said:

I recently had an older frame fail, which was setup with 7-speed Dura-
Ace freewheels on tubular wheels.

A replacement has been found, but the frame rear spacing is 130mm,
rather than 126mm. Although the replacement came with Campagnolo 8-
speed (cassette, I believe), I would like to use the very nice 7-speed
rear wheels I have.

I would imagine that I might be able to add 2mm spacers to either side
and call it a day, but I'd prefer a recommendation that wouldn't
stress the rear axle further. Suggestions on the best approach here?

Add the 4mm of spacers to the left side, moves the rim to the right,
add tension to the left side to center-actually makes the wheel
stronger w/o stressing the axle.

Quoted message said:

One other thing - the spokes are tied and soldered on the non-drive
side, which might make re-dishing the wheel interesting.

Nope, stainless steel spokes, rotate w/o problem w/i the tye and
solder-

Quoted message said:

Thanks and regards,

Rob

On Mar 13, 7:21 pm, "David L. Johnson" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Rob W said:

I recently had an older frame fail, which was setup with 7-speed Dura-
Ace freewheels on tubular wheels.

Quoted message said:

A replacement has been found, but the frame rear spacing is 130mm,
rather than 126mm. Although the replacement came with Campagnolo 8-
speed (cassette, I believe), I would like to use the very nice 7-speed
rear wheels I have.

Quoted message said:

I would imagine that I might be able to add 2mm spacers to either side
and call it a day, but I'd prefer a recommendation that wouldn't
stress the rear axle further. Suggestions on the best approach here?

If the new frame is steel, just compress it a bit; no problem. This is
not so good an idea with carbon; in that case, breaking an axle is the
better alternative.

One of the biggest reasons for axles on freewheel hubs breaking is
misaligned dropouts. 'Compressing' the frame makes dropouts
nonparallel, not helping the axle.

Quoted message said:

Your 7-speed should shift find with the 8-speed shifter.

Quoted message said:

One other thing - the spokes are tied and soldered on the non-drive
side, which might make re-dishing the wheel interesting.

Nah, no problem.

--

David L. Johnson

"Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The common
welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance, and
benevolence, were, all, my business. The dealings of my trade were but
a drop of water in the comprehensive ocean of my business!" --Dickens,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Rob W said:

I recently had an older frame fail, which was setup with 7-speed Dura-
Ace freewheels on tubular wheels.
A replacement has been found, but the frame rear spacing is 130mm,
rather than 126mm. Although the replacement came with Campagnolo 8-
speed (cassette, I believe), I would like to use the very nice 7-speed
rear wheels I have.
I would imagine that I might be able to add 2mm spacers to either side
and call it a day, but I'd prefer a recommendation that wouldn't
stress the rear axle further. Suggestions on the best approach here?

Quoted message said:

David L. Johnson said:

If the new frame is steel, just compress it a bit; no problem. This is
not so good an idea with carbon; in that case, breaking an axle is the
better alternative.

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

One of the biggest reasons for axles on freewheel hubs breaking is
misaligned dropouts. 'Compressing' the frame makes dropouts
nonparallel, not helping the axle.

Agreed which is why my suggestion was to 'have an alignment done' not
'squeeze your frame'. They are not quite the same.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Quoted message said:

Add the 4mm of spacers to the left side, moves the rim to the right,
add tension to the left side to center-actually makes the wheel
stronger w/o stressing the axle.

Thanks for the advice on this, guys. Very helpful.

Regards,

Rob

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

One of the biggest reasons for axles on freewheel hubs breaking is
misaligned dropouts. 'Compressing' the frame makes dropouts
nonparallel, not helping the axle.

In terms of 120mm to 130mm stretching I'd be inclined to agree, but this
is only a 126 to 130mm stretch. If the 130mm wheel is a cassette hub,
it should be fine. Most broken axles are freewheel hubs, especially
those re-spaced to handle more sprockets.

--

David L. Johnson

"Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The common
welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance, and
benevolence, were, all, my business. The dealings of my trade were but
a drop of water in the comprehensive ocean of my business!" --Dickens,

On Mar 14, 10:08 pm, "David L. Johnson" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

One of the biggest reasons for axles on freewheel hubs breaking is
misaligned dropouts. 'Compressing' the frame makes dropouts
nonparallel, not helping the axle.

In terms of 120mm to 130mm stretching I'd be inclined to agree, but this
is only a 126 to 130mm stretch. If the 130mm wheel is a cassette hub,
it should be fine. Most broken axles are freewheel hubs, especially
those re-spaced to handle more sprockets.

OP-"A replacement has been found, but the frame rear spacing is
130mm,
rather than 126mm. Although the replacement came with Campagnolo 8-
speed (cassette, I believe), I would like to use the very nice 7-
speed
rear wheels I have."

Quoted message said:

--

David L. Johnson

"Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The common
welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance, and
benevolence, were, all, my business. The dealings of my trade were but
a drop of water in the comprehensive ocean of my business!" --Dickens,

I thouOn Mar 14, 5:54 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo"
<[email hidden]> wrote:
I thought I would provide an update.

The "new" bike came with an 8-speed freewheel, mated to a Phil Wood
hub. The rim is shot, so a new tubular rim is being laced in. The bike
is heavier, handles better, but somehow feels slower.

Quoted message said:

Add the 4mm of spacers to the left side, moves the rim to the right,
add tension to the left side to center-actually makes the wheel
stronger w/o stressing the axle.

So I did this. The biggest problem was finding 4mm spacers. I finally
did, installed them on the non-drive side, and discovered that it only
takes about 20 minutes to redish the wheel. End result? It works just
great.

Thanks, guyes.

Rob