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safest stem?

Started by Callistus Valerius · · Last activity · 55 posts · 1,856 views

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Cycling Equipment
Published
4 January 2007
Last activity
7 January 2007
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Callistus Valerius
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  1. What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike components, I
    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

  2. Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike components, I
    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    Seems to me that a stem is a good place to use some steel that's less
    brittle than aluminum. Salsa makes a steel threadless stem that costs
    about $40USD. Very nice stuff. Then again, I've got a stupid amount of
    miles on aluminum stems without failure. Maybe I'm just not man enough
    to wrench it apart. :sigh:

  3. Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike components, I
    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?


    just buy an ordinary stem and replace it every 20k or so if you want to
    be real safe. replace handlebars at the same time. use o/s
    stem/handlebars of the highest quality you can afford too if you want to
    be even safer. cold forged.

  4. Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike components, I
    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    So, you have all this personal experience with the reliability of these
    stems, but yet you are paranoid about them braking? Yes, I know that
    stems have been known to break, and sometimes without the rider being
    aware until it failed catastrophically. But this is a rare occurrence.
    Certainly seat post failures are more common, and painful to contemplate.
    Are you as paranoid about those? Forks can fail, cranks, etc. Usually
    there are warning signs, if you will look for them. Do that, or give up
    the sport as being too dangerous.

    I sincerely doubt that there is a single stem that is unbreakable. Yes,
    steel would be less likely to fail without obvious warnings, but then you
    should also use steel cranks, seatposts, and forks by that logic.
    Certainly cost does not correlate with failure risk, in fact some of the
    most expensive are expensive precisely because they are lighter, hence
    weaker.

    Stuff happens, but it happens less if you watch for signs of cracking, and
    listen for new creaks and other unusual noises. And yes, a broken stem can
    cause a fall. But you can fall with a perfectly sound bike as well.

    Relax and enjoy the ride.

    --

    David L. Johnson

    __o | Do not worry about your difficulties in mathematics, I can
    _`\(,_ | assure you that mine are all greater. -- A. Einstein
    (_)/ (_) |

  5. "Callistus Valerius" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike components,


    I

    Quoted message said:

    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    Probably something sexy and practical like this, available from any local
    bike shop with a QBP catalog:
    http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=SM9252

    /sarcasm

  6. landotter said:
    Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike components, I
    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    Seems to me that a stem is a good place to use some steel that's less
    brittle than aluminum. Salsa makes a steel threadless stem that costs
    about $40USD. Very nice stuff. Then again, I've got a stupid amount of
    miles on aluminum stems without failure. Maybe I'm just not man enough
    to wrench it apart. :sigh:

    Dude was riding a Fuji track bike, geared at 53x13 (in Atlanta's rolling
    terrain). He was sprinting up a hill (faster than anyone around him,
    mind you) and then this happened:
    http://tinyurl.com/ycdg73
    http://tinyurl.com/ydlwa7

    \\paul

  7. Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face
    plate so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike
    components, I always look at the stem as the most scary, as a
    failure would be catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break
    that looked a hell of a lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the
    paranoia. I've ridden around a 100,000 miles and never had a
    failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt stems, and never a
    failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a thing as a
    fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    For non-quill stems, I would consider only ones with redundancy, such
    as four bolt clamp plate and two stem clamp bolts. Without that one
    bolt failure leaves the bicycle with a detached handlebar. In other
    words, neither steering nor brakes. Not a recoverable situation
    considering that such a bolt failure would be occurring at a stressful
    instant.

    Jobst Brandt

  8. Paul Hobson said:


    Dude was riding a Fuji track bike, geared at 53x13 (in Atlanta's rolling
    terrain).

    Slightly less steep than our Nashville hills, but still--that's a nutso
    gear on the street. I ride 42x15 fixed around here and moan that I
    gotta get a 16. Now I really feel inadequate. ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    He was sprinting up a hill (faster than anyone around him,
    mind you) and then this happened:
    http://tinyurl.com/ycdg73
    http://tinyurl.com/ydlwa7

    That looks like an absolute [censored] weld in the first place! Scary! I've
    never had anything major break on a bike. [/me knocks on desk]

    ***
    off topic:

    While I got your attention, what's a good and fairly cheap place to
    grab eats in Atlanta that's got some local flair? I'll be passing
    through this spring and staying over by that new IKEA store.
    Traditional southern is nice, but if there's international cuisine of
    merit in the area, that's my cuppa as well. Hole in the wall sorta
    place is preferred, and if it's just a shack with a window and a Coke
    machine then it'll likely get 5 landotter stars! I'll eat anything from
    decent vegetarian (hold the sprouts) to pork cracklins.

    Shame I won't have room for a bike in the car, I'd have hooked up with
    ya for a fixie tour de 'lanta. Five people in a Jetta, this should be
    fun...

  9. Paul Hobson said:
    landotter said:
    Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face
    plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike
    components, I
    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell
    of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden
    around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4
    bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there
    such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    Seems to me that a stem is a good place to use some steel that's less
    brittle than aluminum. Salsa makes a steel threadless stem that costs
    about $40USD. Very nice stuff. Then again, I've got a stupid amount of
    miles on aluminum stems without failure. Maybe I'm just not man enough
    to wrench it apart. :sigh:

    Dude was riding a Fuji track bike, geared at 53x13 (in Atlanta's rolling
    terrain). He was sprinting up a hill (faster than anyone around him,
    mind you) and then this happened:
    http://tinyurl.com/ycdg73
    http://tinyurl.com/ydlwa7


    which is why i say stick to single-piece cold forged stems! [apart from
    the clamp of course.]

  10. landotter said:
    Paul Hobson said:

    Dude was riding a Fuji track bike, geared at 53x13 (in Atlanta's rolling
    terrain).

    Slightly less steep than our Nashville hills, but still--that's a nutso
    gear on the street. I ride 42x15 fixed around here and moan that I
    gotta get a 16. Now I really feel inadequate. ;-)

    He's since switched to 48x15 having learned the benefits of a higher
    cadence (shakes head)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    He was sprinting up a hill (faster than anyone around him,
    mind you) and then this happened:
    http://tinyurl.com/ycdg73
    http://tinyurl.com/ydlwa7

    That looks like an absolute [censored] weld in the first place! Scary! I've
    never had anything major break on a bike. [/me knocks on desk]

    Yeah. That was our assessment as well. Still, dude's an animal. He's
    about 5' 9" - 10". Slender and not much taller than me...but massive
    legs. He also lives off of coffee, candy, and the occasional beer.

    Quoted message said:

    ***
    off topic:

    While I got your attention, what's a good and fairly cheap place to
    grab eats in Atlanta that's got some local flair? I'll be passing
    through this spring and staying over by that new IKEA store.

    Ah, my old side of town (still where I commute to everyday).

    Quoted message said:

    Traditional southern is nice, but if there's international cuisine of
    merit in the area, that's my cuppa as well. Hole in the wall sorta
    place is preferred, and if it's just a shack with a window and a Coke
    machine then it'll likely get 5 landotter stars! I'll eat anything from
    decent vegetarian (hold the sprouts) to pork cracklins.

    Trad. Southern:
    -Bobby & June Country Kitchen on 14th St between Mecaslin St and State
    St (this is right next to Atlantic Station/IKEA)
    -Son's Place at Hurt St and Decatur Ave

    Vegan/Black Hebrew Southern:
    -Soul Vegetarian No. 2 on N. Highland between Ponce de Leon and North
    Ave (a little pricey, but good!)

    *Authentic* _Cuban_ sandwiches
    -Kool Korner's on 14th and State St (*hole* in wall, take out only, but
    damn good at $4.70 a piece after tax).

    As a last resort, go to Eat's on Ponce. Bobby and June's is probably
    right up your alley and damn close to where you'll be. The hours are
    shifted kind of early (6am - 2pm?), so you definitely need to be there
    by not long after "lunchtime." It's pretty busy, but you tend get
    seated fairly quickly. I prefer Son's personally as it's more 'Soul'
    food than 'Southern' (shades of gray, really), but much less convenient
    to find. Also, if you end up spending too much money at IKEA, eat
    there. It's dirt cheap and pretty alright too.

    Quoted message said:

    Shame I won't have room for a bike in the car, I'd have hooked up with
    ya for a fixie tour de 'lanta. Five people in a Jetta, this should be
    fun...

    Question: how are you going to be getting anything home? I'm a student
    a GA Tech (a few blocks from AS/IKEA), drop me a buzz off line for a
    phone number if you get lost/whatever. (switch the words to numbers)
    \\paul

  11. Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Seems to me that a stem is a good place to use some steel that's less
    brittle than aluminum. Salsa makes a steel threadless stem that costs
    about $40USD. Very nice stuff. Then again, I've got a stupid amount of
    miles on aluminum stems without failure. Maybe I'm just not man enough
    to wrench it apart. :sigh:

    Dude was riding a Fuji track bike, geared at 53x13 (in Atlanta's rolling
    terrain). He was sprinting up a hill (faster than anyone around him,
    mind you) and then this happened:
    http://tinyurl.com/ycdg73
    http://tinyurl.com/ydlwa7


    which is why i say stick to single-piece cold forged stems! [apart from
    the clamp of course.]

    You mean like the one I had fail? It was a Mavic forged aluminum stem, and
    the bottom part of the handlebar clamp, where the tightening bolt threaded
    into, simply pulled away from the rest of the stem. The threads didn't
    strip, but rather the section the threads were in just separated. I replaced
    that with an Ibis titanium stem; the handlebar pinch bolt broke on that one
    (and during a sprint, no less... why I didn't go down is completely beyond
    me).

    Now I've got a massively-big & sorta ugly Bontrager carbon stem, which would
    probably take a chainsaw to kill. 140 grams, which is about 40 grams heavier
    than some of the modern ultralight aluminum stems these days. Yeah, it would
    be nicer if they'd engineer something a bit lighter, but it's also nice that
    I don't worry about stem failures anymore.

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
    www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

    "jim beam" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:
    Paul Hobson said:
    landotter said:

    Callistus Valerius wrote:
    > What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face
    > plate
    > so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike
    > components, I
    > always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    > catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of
    > a
    > lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden
    > around a
    > 100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4
    > bolt
    > stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there
    > such a
    > thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    Seems to me that a stem is a good place to use some steel that's less
    brittle than aluminum. Salsa makes a steel threadless stem that costs
    about $40USD. Very nice stuff. Then again, I've got a stupid amount of
    miles on aluminum stems without failure. Maybe I'm just not man enough
    to wrench it apart. :sigh:

    Dude was riding a Fuji track bike, geared at 53x13 (in Atlanta's rolling
    terrain). He was sprinting up a hill (faster than anyone around him,
    mind you) and then this happened:
    http://tinyurl.com/ycdg73
    http://tinyurl.com/ydlwa7


    which is why i say stick to single-piece cold forged stems! [apart from
    the clamp of course.]

  12. Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc?

    Thomson Elite is the strongest, most proven stem for its weight that I
    know of.

  13. Paul Hobson said:

    Ah, my old side of town (still where I commute to everyday).

    Quoted message said:

    Traditional southern is nice, but if there's international cuisine of
    merit in the area, that's my cuppa as well. Hole in the wall sorta
    place is preferred, and if it's just a shack with a window and a Coke
    machine then it'll likely get 5 landotter stars! I'll eat anything from
    decent vegetarian (hold the sprouts) to pork cracklins.

    Trad. Southern:
    -Bobby & June Country Kitchen on 14th St between Mecaslin St and State
    St (this is right next to Atlantic Station/IKEA)
    -Son's Place at Hurt St and Decatur Ave

    I've heard great stuff about Son's! I'm a greens lover, so we'll see if
    they stack up to Nashville's Swett's.

    Quoted message said:

    Vegan/Black Hebrew Southern:
    -Soul Vegetarian No. 2 on N. Highland between Ponce de Leon and North
    Ave (a little pricey, but good!)

    Sounds crazy! On the short list. Who doesn't love
    Vegan/Black/Hebrew/Southern cuisine? LOL My passengers are semi-veg
    Swedish salon-commies, so they'll probably pass out from the
    authenticity.

    Quoted message said:


    *Authentic* _Cuban_ sandwiches
    -Kool Korner's on 14th and State St (*hole* in wall, take out only, but
    damn good at $4.70 a piece after tax).

    That is the thing I'm talkin' about! Yeah!

    Quoted message said:


    As a last resort, go to Eat's on Ponce. Bobby and June's is probably
    right up your alley and damn close to where you'll be. The hours are
    shifted kind of early (6am - 2pm?), so you definitely need to be there
    by not long after "lunchtime." It's pretty busy, but you tend get
    seated fairly quickly. I prefer Son's personally as it's more 'Soul'

    Know zaktly what you're talking about. Son's is the top of the list.

    Quoted message said:

    food than 'Southern' (shades of gray, really), but much less convenient
    to find. Also, if you end up spending too much money at IKEA, eat
    there. It's dirt cheap and pretty alright too.

    Har, I've eaten at half a dozen IKEA's. The food is actualy quite
    spectacular for the money. I'm a Swede and was chagrined when I got the
    meatball special in 'lanta last time. Tasted just like in Gothenburg.
    😄

    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Shame I won't have room for a bike in the car, I'd have hooked up with
    ya for a fixie tour de 'lanta. Five people in a Jetta, this should be
    fun...

    Question: how are you going to be getting anything home? I'm a student
    a GA Tech (a few blocks from AS/IKEA), drop me a buzz off line for a
    phone number if you get lost/whatever. (switch the words to numbers)
    \\paul

    Not there for shopping, Paul, just that I'm having relatives fly over
    from Swedeland. We'll be sending them off and welcoming them in Memphis
    and Atlanta to save some bucks. Got some killer hotel discounts from a
    friend of my momma's so we can make the pickup and dropoff points a bit
    of a party.

    Thanks so much for the recommendations, Paul! More than I could ever
    have found on those internet tubes. May the Flying Spaghetti Monster
    annoint you!

    -Max in Nashville

  14. Paul Hobson said:

    Dude was riding a Fuji track bike, geared at 53x13 (in Atlanta's rolling
    terrain). He was sprinting up a hill (faster than anyone around him,
    mind you) and then this happened:
    http://tinyurl.com/ycdg73
    http://tinyurl.com/ydlwa7

    Looking at the first picture, the fracture surface that is closest to
    the table, on both the quill and the extension, looks dark. If you
    put the stem back together and looked at it from the front of the
    bike, the area I'm talking about would be at 3 to 5 o'clock. If this
    is not a trick of the light, it suggests there was already a fairly
    substantial crack in the stem before the final separation.

    Something about the way the exposed crack surface on the quill
    doesn't touch the quill tube makes me wonder if the extension was
    mitered carefully to fit onto the quill, although maybe it was and
    the mitered surface is all hidden under the weld.

    Ben

  15. landotter said:

    While I got your attention, what's a good and fairly cheap place to
    grab eats in Atlanta that's got some local flair?

    Waffle House?

  16. http://www.lhthomson.com/elite_x4.htm

    Tim McTeague

  17. What about 2 stem bolts 4 handlebar bolts with adjustable stem?

    http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?sku=10679&PID=1204522

    Above looks like $79 Oval stem but only $20. Blindly buying fixed stems
    after another seems stupid to me. But need stem adapter, stem, bars,
    and tape ($59 + shipping from 2 places).

    This is not spam, but the result of hours of stem research :-)

    Thanks!!

  18. Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike components, I
    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    I think you should use whatever you currently use, but replace it
    regularly -- perhap every 50K or 80K miles.

    That said, I'd speculate Salsa steel stems and lower-end Ritchey stems
    are particularly durable.

    --
    JT
    ****************************
    Remove "remove" to reply
    Visit http://www.jt10000.com
    ****************************

  19. Callistus Valerius said:

    What would be the safest threadless road stem out there, with a face plate
    so you don't have to remove the shifters etc? Of all the bike components, I
    always look at the stem as the most scary, as a failure would be
    catastrophic. I've seen lots of metal [censored] break that looked a hell of a
    lot stronger than a bicycle stem, thus the paranoia. I've ridden around a
    100,000 miles and never had a failure, and I have had two bolt and 4 bolt
    stems, and never a failure or a crack in any of them. But is there such a
    thing as a fail-safe one, with the specs I listed?

    Ritchey Comp or Salsa steel one.

  20. <[email hidden]> wrote in message
    news:[email hidden]...

    Quoted message said:

    For non-quill stems, I would consider only ones with redundancy, such
    as four bolt clamp plate and two stem clamp bolts. Without that one
    bolt failure leaves the bicycle with a detached handlebar. In other
    words, neither steering nor brakes. Not a recoverable situation
    considering that such a bolt failure would be occurring at a stressful
    instant.

    Detatching the handlebars doesnt' necessarily cause brake loss. Ok, it's
    probably not going to be easy when you're not ready for it, and drops will
    be harder than flats, but I did once ride a bike home with brakes but no
    steering - you just hold the bars and remember that moving them doesnt'
    achieve anything :-)

    cheers,
    clive

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