Removing a C-Record crank

Lee said:

I'm taking apart an interesting older Merlin ExtraLight that came built up
with some late C-Record components. I've got tools for Nuovo Record cranks
and for current Record cranks, but this self extracting crank bolt, etc, has
me puzzled.

Can someone describe how this crank comes apart, and what special tools are
needed?

Much appreciated,

Lee

You need a 7mm hex key. The threads for the crank bolts are normal. The
rings with the 2 small holes for a special tool are part of the
self-extractor. These have reverse threads (I believe) , but there
should be no reason to have to remove them. Just unscrew the 7mm socket
head bolts and the crank will come off as you do.

Joseph

Joe,

Thank you. You were exactly correct. Much appreciated.

Lee

Lee said:

I'm taking apart an interesting older Merlin ExtraLight that came built up
with some late C-Record components. I've got tools for Nuovo Record cranks
and for current Record cranks, but this self extracting crank bolt, etc, has
me puzzled.

Can someone describe how this crank comes apart, and what special tools are
needed?

Shoot some oil in the extractor and unscrew the 7mm allen bolt. That's it!

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

7mm allen wrenches are available - Sears Craftsman. They are not easy
to find in normal hardware stores. They also work great for 3TTT
Record 1970's stems!

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

Donald Gillies said:

7mm allen wrenches are available - Sears Craftsman. They are not easy
to find in normal hardware stores. They also work great for 3TTT
Record 1970's stems!

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

And BMW brake calipers. Don't leave home without them!

Joseph

Donald Gillies said:

7mm allen wrenches are available - Sears Craftsman. They are not easy
to find in normal hardware stores. They also work great for 3TTT
Record 1970's stems!

Auto Zone sells a 3/8" x 7mm ratchet driver as a single tool. A 1/2" x
3/8" adapter lets you use the longer 1/2" ratchet handle for EZ
removal. A Sears or other cheapie torque wrench, 3/8" drive and a foot
or so of handle on it, makes it easy to put them back on, and to make
sure they're tight enough to stay on. 312-324 in. lbs. for Campy,
according to the Park Tool site ("repair help" button).

Campy offered a tool that clamps onto a 7mm allen, converts allen to
flats for wrench use. Plus the pin tool to remove the stock on/off
bolt/extractor.

(As Peter Chisholm recently posted): The self-extractors can be
replaced with normal crank bolts. You'll need both LH and RH thread
extractors in place of the stock "self extractor" units.

I use these things because C Record cranks were made in 165 length.
Don't forget the squirt of oil (Tri Flow here) before you start. --D-y

Quoted message said:

Donald Gillies said:

7mm allen wrenches are available - Sears Craftsman. They are not easy
to find in normal hardware stores. They also work great for 3TTT
Record 1970's stems!

Auto Zone sells a 3/8" x 7mm ratchet driver as a single tool. A 1/2" x
3/8" adapter lets you use the longer 1/2" ratchet handle for EZ
removal. A Sears or other cheapie torque wrench, 3/8" drive and a foot
or so of handle on it, makes it easy to put them back on, and to make
sure they're tight enough to stay on. 312-324 in. lbs. for Campy,
according to the Park Tool site ("repair help" button).

Campy offered a tool that clamps onto a 7mm allen, converts allen to
flats for wrench use. Plus the pin tool to remove the stock on/off
bolt/extractor.

(As Peter Chisholm recently posted): The self-extractors can be
replaced with normal crank bolts. You'll need both LH and RH thread
extractors in place of the stock "self extractor" units.

Nope, both are left threaded, both sides of this crank.

Quoted message said:

I use these things because C Record cranks were made in 165 length.
Don't forget the squirt of oil (Tri Flow here) before you start. --D-y

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Quoted message said:

(As Peter Chisholm recently posted): The self-extractors can be
replaced with normal crank bolts. You'll need both LH and RH thread
extractors in place of the stock "self extractor" units.

Nope, both are left threaded, both sides of this crank.

Mr. Chisholm: Apologies for posting a longstanding misunderstanding and
connecting your name to it.

Thank you for the correction.

Yes, "you can tell I've never done this". I am contrite.

(Engaging brain) Of course, they would have to be LH thread, or the
extractor might (would likely) back out when used.

OK, on with '07.

Did the Boulder Snow Dept. get enough street cleared to ride yet? --D-y

Quoted message said:

Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

Quoted message said:

(As Peter Chisholm recently posted): The self-extractors can be
replaced with normal crank bolts. You'll need both LH and RH thread
extractors in place of the stock "self extractor" units.

Nope, both are left threaded, both sides of this crank.

Mr. Chisholm: Apologies for posting a longstanding misunderstanding and
connecting your name to it.

Thank you for the correction.

Yes, "you can tell I've never done this". I am contrite.

(Engaging brain) Of course, they would have to be LH thread, or the
extractor might (would likely) back out when used.

On the topic of engaging one's brain while thinking about threads:

Kind of reminds me of the first time I used my nice shiny Hozan BB
chasers. English threaded, one has RH on it, the other LH. "Ah this one
must be for the right side, this one for the left!" I thought as I
proceeded to ruin my bike...

Joseph