off road and on road

Quoted message said:

I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take
road tyres to do off road rough track and road, can anybody recommend
what to look out for.

I was dreaming of a cyclo-cross bike while reading this.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take
road tyres to do off road rough track and road, can anybody recommend
what to look out for.

I was dreaming of a cyclo-cross bike while reading this.

D'oh, hit send to early. It might not be what you're looking for, but
would certainly be a little different to the other bikes you're looking at.

"philip hall" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

need a bike to replace my trusty Raleigh 200 max that was nicked last
week. I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take road
tyres to do off road rough track and road, can anybody recommend what to
look out for. I have always liked the rock hopper?.

A hybrid sounds like the right bike for you.

Have a look at the evanscycles web site to see what's typically available.
You might also like to consider rack mounting points as you might want to
explore cycle camping at some stage.

-=V=-

philip hall said the following on 11/12/2006 21:56:

Quoted message said:

1 do I really need front suspension

Depends on what sort of off-road you do. Bear in mind that 20+ years
ago there was no such thing as front suspension on production bikes, and
that didn't stop us!

Quoted message said:

2 should I go for chrome metal or aluminium

Chrome metal? Wassat? Personally, I aspire to a steel MTB frame
(Orange or Cove, rather than Lidl or Argos!) Aluminium frames are OK,
and that's what I have now, but you can't beat the springiness of a good
steel frame, IME.

You might also want to look at cyclocross bikes such as
http://tinyurl.com/e2rt4 (resolves to a long-winded link to the Kona
"Jake the Snake".

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

In article <[email hidden]>

philip hall said:

need a bike to replace my trusty Raleigh 200 max that was nicked last week.
I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take road tyres
to do off road rough track and road,

I used to do some fairly rough off-road riding on my old tourer - skinny
steel frame, 27 x 1 1/4 wheels with wide ratio gears, centrepull brakes
and drop handlebars. Cyclocross riders use similar bikes.

Quoted message said:

can anybody recommend what to look out
for. I have always liked the rock hopper?.

Just about any mountain bike can be fitted with road tyres.

Quoted message said:

1 do I really need front suspension

No.

Quoted message said:

2 should I go for chrome metal or aluminium

I guess you mean CroMoly (which is fancy steel). Steel has more twang
than aluminium alloys, aluminium frames tend be stiffer, steel will
probably last longer if you look after it but aluminium won't rust. SO
take your pick. :-)

Quoted message said:

3 will take mudguards

Any hybrid or mountain bike style machine will have clearance for
mudguards, some hybrids come with them, ready fitted. Check that the
frame has eyelets to bolt on the mudguard stays. It's generally easier
to fit mudguards to non-suspension bikes. Clip-on MTB mudguards are
generally pretty poor at keeping you clean and dry, conventional old-
fashioned mudguards work pretty well.

philip hall said:

need a bike to replace my trusty Raleigh 200 max that was nicked last week.
I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take road tyres
to do off road rough track and road, can anybody recommend what to look out
for. I have always liked the rock hopper?.

How rough a track are we talking here, gravel road, forestry fireroad,
rutted farm track, bridleway or knarly single track and for how long?
You'll be thankful for suspension if you spend more than an hour riding
just a gravel road.

Quoted message said:

1 do I really need front suspension

So 'need', no. But for me I can't see myself ever going back to rigid
forks again. Don't forget, as with all things, a good set of forks will
add on at least 150 quid to a bike price. [censored] sus forks are no better
than rigid forks.

Quoted message said:

2 should I go for chrome metal or aluminium

Steel for comfort and Aluminium for light weight and stiff.

Quoted message said:

3 will take mudguards

I guess most do, I've never been one for mud guards, they break too
easily.

laters,

Marz

In article <[email hidden]>

Marz said:

philip hall said:

need a bike to replace my trusty Raleigh 200 max that was nicked last week.
I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take road tyres
to do off road rough track and road, can anybody recommend what to look out
for. I have always liked the rock hopper?.

How rough a track are we talking here, gravel road, forestry fireroad,
rutted farm track, bridleway or knarly single track and for how long?
You'll be thankful for suspension if you spend more than an hour riding
just a gravel road.

Quoted message said:

1 do I really need front suspension

So 'need', no. But for me I can't see myself ever going back to rigid
forks again. Don't forget, as with all things, a good set of forks will
add on at least 150 quid to a bike price. [censored] sus forks are no better
than rigid forks.

Actually worse - you'll have better control with half-decent rigid forks
than with [censored] pogo forks.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

2 should I go for chrome metal or aluminium

Steel for comfort and Aluminium for light weight and stiff.

I doubt that a lot of the cheaper aluminium frames are particularly
light, just as a cheap & nasty steel frame won't be particularly
comfortable.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

3 will take mudguards

I guess most do, I've never been one for mud guards, they break too
easily.

What do you do to them? Decent chromoplastic mudguards are pretty
tough, and do a good job of keeping you a lot dryer and cleaner than a
naked bike. Unless you're a fair-weather cyclist, you have incredibly
effective all-enveloping waterproofs or there's always a shower, a
change of clothing and washing/drying facilities at the end of your
journey you must be happy to go around damp and dirty.

Paul Boyd said:

You might also want to look at cyclocross bikes such as
http://tinyurl.com/e2rt4 (resolves to a long-winded link to the Kona
"Jake the Snake".

also on http://www.konaworld.com/bikes/2k7/JAKE/index.html
less expensive version

In article <[email hidden]>

Dan Gregory said:

Paul Boyd said:

You might also want to look at cyclocross bikes such as
http://tinyurl.com/e2rt4 (resolves to a long-winded link to the Kona
"Jake the Snake".

also on http://www.konaworld.com/bikes/2k7/JAKE/index.html
less expensive version

I suspect that doesn't have mudguard eyes. :-) I'm quite impressed
with the way major manufacturers use proper proportional frame geometry
these days.

Rob Morley said the following on 12/12/2006 12:15:

Quoted message said:

Actually worse - you'll have better control with half-decent rigid forks
than with [censored] pogo forks.

Seconded. My bike came with RST forks. They were bl**dy awful and
seemed to have no damping or control whatsoever. Those forks aren't on
the bike any more...

--
Paul Boyd
http://www.paul-boyd.co.uk/

Rob Morley said:

In article <[email hidden]>

Marz said:

philip hall said:

need a bike to replace my trusty Raleigh 200 max that was nicked last week.
I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take road tyres
to do off road rough track and road, can anybody recommend what to look out
for. I have always liked the rock hopper?.

How rough a track are we talking here, gravel road, forestry fireroad,
rutted farm track, bridleway or knarly single track and for how long?
You'll be thankful for suspension if you spend more than an hour riding
just a gravel road.

Quoted message said:

1 do I really need front suspension

So 'need', no. But for me I can't see myself ever going back to rigid
forks again. Don't forget, as with all things, a good set of forks will
add on at least 150 quid to a bike price. [censored] sus forks are no better
than rigid forks.

Actually worse - you'll have better control with half-decent rigid forks
than with [censored] pogo forks.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

2 should I go for chrome metal or aluminium

Steel for comfort and Aluminium for light weight and stiff.

I doubt that a lot of the cheaper aluminium frames are particularly
light, just as a cheap & nasty steel frame won't be particularly
comfortable.

True, but I was comparing a Rocky Mountain Blizzard against a
Cannondale Caffeine, one steel and compilant the other Alu, a bit
lighter and alot stiffer. New toys for Christmas, maybe.

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

3 will take mudguards

I guess most do, I've never been one for mud guards, they break too
easily.

What do you do to them? Decent chromoplastic mudguards are pretty
tough, and do a good job of keeping you a lot dryer and cleaner than a
naked bike. Unless you're a fair-weather cyclist, you have incredibly
effective all-enveloping waterproofs or there's always a shower, a
change of clothing and washing/drying facilities at the end of your
journey you must be happy to go around damp and dirty.

I mountain bike in all weathers and I've found that the muddier it gets
the more useless mud guards become. They maybe ok for catching the dirt
from the road, but they get in the way when you're riding through
4inchs of thick mud. They have a tendency to crack or get ripped off in
the smallest wipe out and there aren't many makes of mud guard that
work well with any tyre over 2.5inchs. I switched from rim brakes to
disc to get more mud clearance, I don't need mudguards to get in the
way.
Even when I take the road bike out for a quick 50 I don't see the point
of mudguards. It rains, I get wet. When I used to commute 20 miles a
day by bike, I'd have to carry my work clothes and laptop in a
waterproof backpack and then use the loo at work to get changed. Drying
the wet gear out over the top of an old crt monitor (can't do that with
a newer lcd).
The wife doesn't let me in the house after most rides, I have to hose
off in the garden before I go in. And that's not fun when it's freezing
out.
I guess I don't bike for social reasons (popping down the pub or around
to some friends for dinner) and therefore rarely ride in anything other
than cycling gear which I don't mind getting wet and mucky.

laters,

marz

Marz said:

Quoted message said:

I doubt that a lot of the cheaper aluminium frames are particularly
light, just as a cheap & nasty steel frame won't be particularly
comfortable.

True, but I was comparing a Rocky Mountain Blizzard against a
Cannondale Caffeine, one steel and compilant the other Alu, a bit
lighter and alot stiffer. New toys for Christmas, maybe.

I can believe people being able to tell the difference in frame stiffness on
a road bike, but on a MTB with 2.3" tyres? I'd be scared if my frame flexed
enough to make a noticeable difference.

Anthony

Quoted message said:

I don't see the point of mudguards.

<snippity>

Quoted message said:

The wife doesn't let me in the house after most rides, I have to hose
off in the garden before I go in. And that's not fun when it's freezing
out.

What's that about not seeing the point of mudguards? 😉

Paul Boyd usenet.dont.work@plusnet said:

philip hall said the following on 11/12/2006 21:56:

Quoted message said:

1 do I really need front suspension

Depends on what sort of off-road you do. Bear in mind that 20+ years
ago there was no such thing as front suspension on production bikes, and
that didn't stop us!

indeed if the forks have room, nice wide tires should take the lumps and
bumps out.

i've only recently chnaged from a solid frame bike to one with front
suspention, and it's made a world of differnace, on narly stuff but i
would assume the OP is going going down tracks etc

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

2 should I go for chrome metal or aluminium

Chrome metal? Wassat? Personally, I aspire to a steel MTB frame
(Orange or Cove, rather than Lidl or Argos!) Aluminium frames are OK,
and that's what I have now, but you can't beat the springiness of a good
steel frame, IME.

You might also want to look at cyclocross bikes such as
http://tinyurl.com/e2rt4 (resolves to a long-winded link to the Kona
"Jake the Snake".

roger

Mark Thompson said:

Quoted message said:

I don't see the point of mudguards.

<snippity>

Quoted message said:

The wife doesn't let me in the house after most rides, I have to hose
off in the garden before I go in. And that's not fun when it's freezing
out.

What's that about not seeing the point of mudguards? 😉

I don't, honestly. You reach a point where mudguards don't help and
begin to become a hinderance. Mudflaps that attach to the seatpost and
crud guards are pretty useless and a quality mudguards that fit closely
around the tyre are going to clog up in seconds in even mildly muddy
conditions.

Laters,

Marz

In article <[email hidden]>
Marz <[email hidden]> wrote:SO going back top the OP

Quoted message said:

I mountain bike in all weathers and I've found that the muddier it gets
the more useless mud guards become. They maybe ok for catching the dirt
from the road, but they get in the way when you're riding through
4inchs of thick mud. They have a tendency to crack or get ripped off in
the smallest wipe out and there aren't many makes of mud guard that
work well with any tyre over 2.5inchs. I switched from rim brakes to
disc to get more mud clearance, I don't need mudguards to get in the
way.
Even when I take the road bike out for a quick 50 I don't see the point
of mudguards. It rains, I get wet. When I used to commute 20 miles a
day by bike, I'd have to carry my work clothes and laptop in a
waterproof backpack and then use the loo at work to get changed. Drying
the wet gear out over the top of an old crt monitor (can't do that with
a newer lcd).
The wife doesn't let me in the house after most rides, I have to hose
off in the garden before I go in. And that's not fun when it's freezing
out.
I guess I don't bike for social reasons (popping down the pub or around
to some friends for dinner) and therefore rarely ride in anything other
than cycling gear which I don't mind getting wet and mucky.

So going back to the OP

//
need a bike to replace my trusty Raleigh 200 max that was nicked last
week. I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take
road tyres to do off road rough track and road, can anybody recommend
what to look out
for. I have always liked the rock hopper?.

1 do I really need front suspension

2 should I go for chrome metal or aluminium

3 will take mudguards
//

your mudguard advice isn't particularly appropriate, is it?

Marz said:

Mark Thompson said:

Quoted message said:

I don't see the point of mudguards.

<snippity>

Quoted message said:

The wife doesn't let me in the house after most rides, I have to hose
off in the garden before I go in. And that's not fun when it's freezing
out.

What's that about not seeing the point of mudguards? 😉

I don't, honestly. You reach a point where mudguards don't help and
begin to become a hinderance. Mudflaps that attach to the seatpost and
crud guards are pretty useless and a quality mudguards that fit closely
around the tyre are going to clog up in seconds in even mildly muddy
conditions.

Laters,

Marz

i find crud catchers and like stop too much well crud flying up from my
front tyre, face bound, like you say i will get muddy and wet. that i
don't care about but i like the mud out of my eyes i tend to use mud
tires that kick the mud etc off.

roger

"Marz" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Even when I take the road bike out for a quick 50 I don't see the point
of mudguards. It rains, I get wet.

S'not just about water though - rain itself is nice and clean, but after
it's hit the ground it gets mixed up into a manky mess. When your tyres pull
that up onto you your clothes get mucky, and this is where mudguards help -
ie my cycling tops don't have a big black streak up the back.

(this is road biking - off road has different rules)

cheers,
clive

thanks for the though mark , but not quite, just with going caravanning I
some time do not know what I am going to do till I get there. sometimes
road, trail, muddy mountain biking commuting on roads and cycle paths that
are intermittent at best.

I have a good road bike, that fills my needs over most of my road biking and
feel that hybrid would not accommodate all I need from a bike.

I have been send had a look today and looks to what I want I may have to
pay about £400 for a bike with good components
"Mark Thompson"
<pleasegivegenerously@warmmail*_turn_up_the_heat_to_reply*.com> wrote in
message news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I want a bike that is not a pure mountain bike , that will take
road tyres to do off road rough track and road, can anybody recommend
what to look out for.

I was dreaming of a cyclo-cross bike while reading this.

D'oh, hit send to early. It might not be what you're looking for, but
would certainly be a little different to the other bikes you're looking
at.