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I fixed a broken spoke!

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Road Cycling
Published
4 December 2006
Last activity
6 January 2007
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dgk
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  1. Which correctly implies that I broke another one. I got lucky; this
    one was not on the drive side. So I took a spoke from a retired wheel
    (rear wheel same bike) and replaced the broken one using the same
    pattern as the nearby spokes.

    Once I put the wheel on the bike I was able to true it pretty well by
    seeing how that section passed the brakes. A few twists and it kept
    the same distance as the rest of the wheel. It rode fine this morning.

    I was just on the SheldonBrown site looking at freehubs, and it looks
    easy enough to remove the cassette. I think I'll almost look forward
    to the next broken spoke so I have an excuse to remove the cassette.
    It's almost sure to be on the drive side.

    Do I have to be concerned about Dish? It seems that if the rest of the
    wheel is correct and this one spoke has been adjusted so that the rim
    is straight, then the dish is correct?

  2. dgk said:

    Which correctly implies that I broke another one. I got lucky; this
    one was not on the drive side. So I took a spoke from a retired wheel
    (rear wheel same bike) and replaced the broken one using the same
    pattern as the nearby spokes.

    Once I put the wheel on the bike I was able to true it pretty well by
    seeing how that section passed the brakes. A few twists and it kept
    the same distance as the rest of the wheel. It rode fine this morning.

    I was just on the SheldonBrown site looking at freehubs, and it looks
    easy enough to remove the cassette. I think I'll almost look forward
    to the next broken spoke so I have an excuse to remove the cassette.
    It's almost sure to be on the drive side.

    Do I have to be concerned about Dish? It seems that if the rest of the
    wheel is correct and this one spoke has been adjusted so that the rim
    is straight, then the dish is correct?

    Way to go! Soon you'll be building your own wheels!

    Dish cannot be changed by one spoke. It is regulated by the average
    tension difference between sides. That means the drive side is usually
    a lot tighter to pull the rim that way, instead of having it centered
    between the flanges, as on a front wheel (which has even tension, and
    thus no dish.)

    The cassette tool is a good one to have.

    Joseph

  3. Quoted message said:
    dgk said:

    Which correctly implies that I broke another one. I got lucky; this
    one was not on the drive side. So I took a spoke from a retired wheel
    (rear wheel same bike) and replaced the broken one using the same
    pattern as the nearby spokes.

    Once I put the wheel on the bike I was able to true it pretty well by
    seeing how that section passed the brakes. A few twists and it kept
    the same distance as the rest of the wheel. It rode fine this morning.

    I was just on the SheldonBrown site looking at freehubs, and it looks
    easy enough to remove the cassette. I think I'll almost look forward
    to the next broken spoke so I have an excuse to remove the cassette.
    It's almost sure to be on the drive side.

    Do I have to be concerned about Dish? It seems that if the rest of the
    wheel is correct and this one spoke has been adjusted so that the rim
    is straight, then the dish is correct?

    Way to go! Soon you'll be building your own wheels!

    Dish cannot be changed by one spoke. It is regulated by the average
    tension difference between sides. That means the drive side is usually
    a lot tighter to pull the rim that way, instead of having it centered
    between the flanges, as on a front wheel (which has even tension, and
    thus no dish.)

    The cassette tool is a good one to have.

    Joseph

    PS: If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Joseph

  4. Joseph Santaniello said:

    If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.

    Jobst Brandt

  5. Quoted message said:
    Joseph Santaniello said:

    If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.

    Jobst Brandt

    Stress relief is just going around the wheel sort of pinching the
    spokes?

  6. Quoted message said:
    Joseph Santaniello said:

    If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.

    Jobst Brandt

    Perhaps, but I was making some assumptions based on previous posts. As
    I recall this is an inexpensive machine built wheel as spec'd for a
    $350 bike that doesn't see particularly heavy use. I'll bet they are
    cheap spokes AND they are not formed to the hub nor stress-relieved.

    Joseph

  7. someone said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without
    a doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your
    previous posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and
    stress relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when
    it's the builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel
    durable.

    Quoted message said:

    Stress relief is just going around the wheel sort of pinching the
    spokes?

    There's more to it than that, but yes. A better method of stress
    relief is to stand the wheel on its axle and press down on the rim
    with hands diametrically opposite, once between each pair of spokes.

    However, first the outbound spokes must be manually bent to lie flush
    against the flange. Then by grasping pairs of spokes on opposite
    sides of the wheel and squeezing them together will make sure that
    your wheel is not too tight.

    Jobst Brandt

  8. dgk said:
    Quoted message said:
    Joseph Santaniello said:

    If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.

    Jobst Brandt

    Stress relief is just going around the wheel sort of pinching the
    spokes?

    Dear DGK,

    Forgive me, but your innocent response is too good not to cross-post to
    rec.bicycles.tech.

    While pinching spoke pairs together probably helps to seat the spokes
    in the hub and the nipples in the rim, tests showed no further residual
    stresses being relieved after ordinary spoke tension, even when tension
    was much higher than the typical 60-lb tension increase that other
    testing shows can be achieved by pinching.

    I pinched spokes together on various wheels with known forces and
    measured the tension changes. Despite the impressive bending, the spoke
    tension rose only about 55~65 for a 60 lb pinch. (The bending was not
    due to the spokes being stretched by tremendous tension increases, but
    to the slack gained when the rims bent into faint N or Z shapes.)

    I bent new stainless steel spokes into a near-U, tensioned them in a
    bench-vise rig up to 394 lbs, and measured how far the spoke ends moved
    when the residual stresses in the U-bends were relieved by heating to
    glowing orange with a propane torch. As would be expected, the greatest
    movement (most residual stress exposed) occurred when the bent spoke
    had not been tensioned at all. Modest tension quickly reduced the
    amount that the spoke ends would move when the bend was heated,
    suggesting that some residual stresses had been relieved by the initial
    tension. By the time that tension reached the lowest level of an
    ordinary bicycle wheel, scarcely any effect was seen when the bends
    were heated.

    The most likely explanation for an occasional spoke breaking is
    variation in the spoke material. The bending and tensioning and so
    forth are quite regular. If pinching the spokes were solving some
    residual stress problem, the same problem would be causing all the
    other spokes to fail.

    There's no question that improvements in spoke material have reduced
    spoke failure dramatically. Spokes are still being bent and formed the
    same way, but ten years after his book's first edition, Jobst
    high-lighted the improvement in spokes in his 3rd edition:

    "It appears that the better spokes now available would have made the
    discovery of many of the concepts of this book more difficult for lack
    of failure data. I am grateful in retrospect for the poor durability of
    earlier spokes. They operated so near their limits that durability was
    significantly altered by the techniques that I have outlined."

    --Jobst Brandt, "The Bicycle Wheel," 3rd Edition, 1993, p.124

    So pinch 'em and expect improved seating, but don't expect miracles in
    residual stress relief. That's achieved just by raising the tension to
    normal levels.

    Cheers,

    Carl Fogel

  9. someone said:
    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without
    a doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your
    previous posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and
    stress relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when
    it's the builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel
    durable.

    Quoted message said:

    Stress relief is just going around the wheel sort of pinching the
    spokes?

    There's more to it than that, but yes. A better method of stress
    relief is to stand the wheel on its axle and press down on the rim
    with hands diametrically opposite, once between each pair of spokes.

    However, first the outbound spokes must be manually bent to lie flush
    against the flange. Then by grasping pairs of spokes on opposite
    sides of the wheel and squeezing them together will make sure that
    your wheel is not too tight.

    Jobst Brandt

  10. Jobst Brandt said:
    someone said:
    Quoted message said:

    > If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without
    > a doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your
    > previous posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and
    stress relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when
    it's the builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel
    durable.

    Quoted message said:

    Stress relief is just going around the wheel sort of pinching the
    spokes?

    There's more to it than that, but yes. A better method of stress
    relief is to stand the wheel on its axle and press down on the rim
    with hands diametrically opposite, once between each pair of spokes.

    However, first the outbound spokes must be manually bent to lie flush
    against the flange. Then by grasping pairs of spokes on opposite
    sides of the wheel and squeezing them together will make sure that
    your wheel is not too tight.

    Dear Jobst,

    What is your opinion of this book:
    <http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/books.html#brandt>?

    Thank you,

    J. Sunset

  11. Quoted message said:

    The most likely explanation for an occasional spoke breaking is
    variation in the spoke material. The bending and tensioning and so
    forth are quite regular. If pinching the spokes were solving some
    residual stress problem, the same problem would be causing all the
    other spokes to fail.

    No idea if this is relevant or not, but if the spokes in question are
    some of those made from the Korean steel which has now been
    acknowledged to have been below spec on strength and flaws, then the
    breakage is most likely due to that.

    Quoted message said:

    There's no question that improvements in spoke material have reduced
    spoke failure dramatically. Spokes are still being bent and formed the
    same way, but ten years after his book's first edition, Jobst
    high-lighted the improvement in spokes in his 3rd edition:

    "It appears that the better spokes now available would have made the
    discovery of many of the concepts of this book more difficult for lack
    of failure data. I am grateful in retrospect for the poor durability of
    earlier spokes. They operated so near their limits that durability was
    significantly altered by the techniques that I have outlined."

    --Jobst Brandt, "The Bicycle Wheel," 3rd Edition, 1993, p.124

    And the speed with which spoke failures became common again when just
    one prolific mill was producing substandard wire, was quite
    demonstrative of the accuracy of Jobst's statements.

    Quoted message said:

    So pinch 'em and expect improved seating, but don't expect miracles in
    residual stress relief. That's achieved just by raising the tension to
    normal levels.

    OTOH, it couldn't hurt, either, and once in a while it'll be just
    enough to reveal the one ready-to-fail spoke lurking in the bunch.
    --
    Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
    Some gardening required to reply via email.
    Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

  12. Quoted message said:
    someone said:
    Quoted message said:

    > If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without
    > a doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your
    > previous posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and
    stress relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when
    it's the builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel
    durable.

    Quoted message said:

    Stress relief is just going around the wheel sort of pinching the
    spokes?

    There's more to it than that, but yes. A better method of stress
    relief is to stand the wheel on its axle and press down on the rim
    with hands diametrically opposite, once between each pair of spokes.

    However, first the outbound spokes must be manually bent to lie flush
    against the flange.

    doing that before raising spokes to full "stress relief" tension will
    ensure the angle to which they will be bent is too acute. the hub holes
    will deform [seat] under tension, and it is /that/ angle to which the
    spokes must be formed, if any, *NOT* the angle /before/ the hub holes
    are seated. but given that the hub flanges are canted and that the
    angle which the spoke manufacturer already provides is already
    appropriate, there's no point in this exercise in the first place.
    spoke quality is item #1 in the fight against fatigue, not witchcraft.

    Quoted message said:

    Then by grasping pairs of spokes on opposite
    sides of the wheel and squeezing them together will make sure that
    your wheel is not too tight.

    Jobst Brandt

  13. jim beam said:

    but given that the hub flanges are canted and that the
    angle which the spoke manufacturer already provides is already
    appropriate, there's no point in this exercise in the first place.

    You never answered this question the first time, so let's try again...
    How are the hub flanges canted optimally for all the variations of
    wheels? In bound vs. out bound, crossing pattern, and rim size all
    affect the angle in question. I don't see hubs marketed for each
    variation, and I don't see holes labeled for inbound and outbound
    spokes. Do small wheels (think recumbent) usually use the same hubs as
    diamond frame bikes? If so, do they have a much higher incidence of
    spoke breakage?

    --
    Dave
    dvt at psu dot edu

    Everyone confesses that exertion which brings out all the powers of body
    and mind is the best thing for us; but most people do all they can to
    get rid of it, and as a general rule nobody does much more than
    circumstances drive them to do. -Harriet Beecher Stowe, abolitionist and
    novelist (1811-1896)

  14. Quoted message said:


    dgk said:
    Quoted message said:

    Joseph Santaniello writes:

    > If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    > doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    > posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.

    Jobst Brandt

    Stress relief is just going around the wheel sort of pinching the
    spokes?

    Dear DGK,

    Forgive me, but your innocent response is too good not to cross-post to
    rec.bicycles.tech.

    THANKS! I can't recall the last time someone called anything about me
    "innocent". It's almost like being carded.

  15. Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:
    Joseph Santaniello said:

    If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.

    Jobst Brandt

    Perhaps, but I was making some assumptions based on previous posts. As
    I recall this is an inexpensive machine built wheel as spec'd for a
    $350 bike that doesn't see particularly heavy use. I'll bet they are
    cheap spokes AND they are not formed to the hub nor stress-relieved.

    Joseph

    Recall correct. Except that, being a hybrid, the rear wheel does get a
    lot of weight, Especially since the travel bag sits over it.

  16. dgk said:
    Quoted message said:


    Quoted message said:

    Joseph Santaniello writes:

    > If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    > doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    > posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)

    Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.

    Jobst Brandt

    Perhaps, but I was making some assumptions based on previous posts. As
    I recall this is an inexpensive machine built wheel as spec'd for a
    $350 bike that doesn't see particularly heavy use. I'll bet they are
    cheap spokes AND they are not formed to the hub nor stress-relieved.

    Joseph

    Recall correct. Except that, being a hybrid, the rear wheel does get a
    lot of weight, Especially since the travel bag sits over it.

    They weight distribution difference from the hybrid configuration is
    minimal. The travel bag could make a difference, but unless you are
    carrying around several dehydrated grandfather clocks, your total
    weight is still well within range of what should not be a problem for
    36 spoke wheels.

    Joseph

  17. Quoted message said:


    dgk said:
    Quoted message said:


    [email hidden] wrote:
    > Joseph Santaniello writes:
    >
    > > If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    > > doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    > > posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)
    >
    > Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    > relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    > builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.
    >
    > Jobst Brandt

    Perhaps, but I was making some assumptions based on previous posts. As
    I recall this is an inexpensive machine built wheel as spec'd for a
    $350 bike that doesn't see particularly heavy use. I'll bet they are
    cheap spokes AND they are not formed to the hub nor stress-relieved.

    Joseph

    Recall correct. Except that, being a hybrid, the rear wheel does get a
    lot of weight, Especially since the travel bag sits over it.

    They weight distribution difference from the hybrid configuration is
    minimal. The travel bag could make a difference, but unless you are
    carrying around several dehydrated grandfather clocks, your total
    weight is still well within range of what should not be a problem for
    36 spoke wheels.

    Joseph

    Good. I just posted about a Shimano wheel that I'm thinking about
    getting. It might be overkill but piece by piece I'm turning my Trek
    7100 into a 7300. I broken spoke, causing me to limp home with a
    detached brake, is just really annoying.

  18. dgk said:
    Quoted message said:


    dgk said:

    On 4 Dec 2006 13:48:49 -0800, [email hidden] wrote:

    >
    >[email hidden] wrote:
    >> Joseph Santaniello writes:
    >>
    >> > If you are breaking non-drive side spokes, this indicates without a
    >> > doubt that they are [censored] spokes. (based on info from your previous
    >> > posts, that you don't weigh 400lbs,etc)
    >>
    >> Even the best spokes fail if they are not formed to the hub and stress
    >> relieved. Don't push it off on the spoke manufacturer when it's the
    >> builder who needs to take measures to make the wheel durable.
    >>
    >> Jobst Brandt
    >
    >Perhaps, but I was making some assumptions based on previous posts. As
    >I recall this is an inexpensive machine built wheel as spec'd for a
    >$350 bike that doesn't see particularly heavy use. I'll bet they are
    >cheap spokes AND they are not formed to the hub nor stress-relieved.
    >
    >Joseph

    Recall correct. Except that, being a hybrid, the rear wheel does get a
    lot of weight, Especially since the travel bag sits over it.

    They weight distribution difference from the hybrid configuration is
    minimal. The travel bag could make a difference, but unless you are
    carrying around several dehydrated grandfather clocks, your total
    weight is still well within range of what should not be a problem for
    36 spoke wheels.

    Joseph

    Good. I just posted about a Shimano wheel that I'm thinking about
    getting. It might be overkill but piece by piece I'm turning my Trek
    7100 into a 7300. I broken spoke, causing me to limp home with a
    detached brake, is just really annoying.

    That $120 + shipping wheel looks pretty good, but I think it's maybe
    not money well spent. Your hub and rim are probably fine, so replacing
    them won't get you any further. I'd get $26 worth of DT spokes from
    Performance and swap them out myself. Do them one-by-one and it'll work
    out fine. And pretend someone is paying you $100 to do it!

    Joseph

  19. Quoted message said:


    dgk said:

    On 5 Dec 2006 08:09:21 -0800, [email hidden] wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Good. I just posted about a Shimano wheel that I'm thinking about
    getting. It might be overkill but piece by piece I'm turning my Trek
    7100 into a 7300. I broken spoke, causing me to limp home with a
    detached brake, is just really annoying.

    That $120 + shipping wheel looks pretty good, but I think it's maybe
    not money well spent. Your hub and rim are probably fine, so replacing
    them won't get you any further. I'd get $26 worth of DT spokes from
    Performance and swap them out myself. Do them one-by-one and it'll work
    out fine. And pretend someone is paying you $100 to do it!

    Joseph

    Ah, but it's 20% off! Who can resist that bargin? Plus, it would take
    me a lot of time to replace each spoke and true it after each one
    since I dare not wait until the end to true it.

    Besides, it is the holiday season.

    I'm more worried that I may run into a problem because of the spacer
    requirement for my bike.

  20. dgk said:
    Quoted message said:


    dgk said:

    On 5 Dec 2006 08:09:21 -0800, [email hidden] wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:


    Good. I just posted about a Shimano wheel that I'm thinking about
    getting. It might be overkill but piece by piece I'm turning my Trek
    7100 into a 7300. I broken spoke, causing me to limp home with a
    detached brake, is just really annoying.

    That $120 + shipping wheel looks pretty good, but I think it's maybe
    not money well spent. Your hub and rim are probably fine, so replacing
    them won't get you any further. I'd get $26 worth of DT spokes from
    Performance and swap them out myself. Do them one-by-one and it'll work
    out fine. And pretend someone is paying you $100 to do it!

    Joseph

    Ah, but it's 20% off! Who can resist that bargin? Plus, it would take
    me a lot of time to replace each spoke and true it after each one
    since I dare not wait until the end to true it.

    Besides, it is the holiday season.

    I'm more worried that I may run into a problem because of the spacer
    requirement for my bike.

    The spacer will work fine. But I'd still go for replacing the spokes.
    the LBS (even an expensive Manhattan one!) could replace them for less
    than that wheel and one would hope that it would be built well, at
    least as well and probably much better than the Performance wheel.

    Joseph

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