valve trouble

Arthur Ogus said:

Grrr!!! It has happened again. For some reason my floor pump
doesn't like the valve stems on my favorite tires, Vittoria Corsa
CX. About half the time, the valve head gets pushed back into the
tube instead of entering cleanly into the pump head. This only
seems to happen with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
nuisance, because if it happens often enough, the tube is weakened
and begins to leak. Since these tires are sewups, it's a major
headache.

Quoted message said:

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening is to let
all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that I can support
the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this what you are supposed
to do? (Of course, these valves aren't threaded at the bottom, so
one can't use a retainer nut to hold the valve in place.)

That's what the little knurled nut on threaded valve stems is for.
Use it.

Jobst Brandt

Quoted message said:

Arthur Ogus said:

Grrr!!! It has happened again. For some reason my floor pump
doesn't like the valve stems on my favorite tires, Vittoria Corsa
CX. About half the time, the valve head gets pushed back into the
tube instead of entering cleanly into the pump head. This only
seems to happen with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
nuisance, because if it happens often enough, the tube is weakened
and begins to leak. Since these tires are sewups, it's a major
headache.

Quoted message said:

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening is to let
all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that I can support
the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this what you are supposed
to do? (Of course, these valves aren't threaded at the bottom, so
one can't use a retainer nut to hold the valve in place.)

That's what the little knurled nut on threaded valve stems is for.
Use it.

Jobst Brandt

Dear Jobst,

The original poster wrote:

"(Of course, these valves aren't threaded at the bottom, so
one can't use a retainer nut to hold the valve in place.)"

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

Arthur Ogus said:

Grrr!!! It has happened again.
For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
the valve stems on my favorite tires,
Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
the valve head gets pushed back into
the tube instead of entering cleanly into
the pump head. This only seems to happen
with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

If the pump head has a knurled nut on the face that slides on the valve
stem try slacking it off a bit to reduce the pressure on the seal washer.

HTH

Marcus

Arthur Ogus said:

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

Assuming you're not stopping in mid-Saskatchewan, can't you lean your
bike up against something, then put your left thumb and index finger
around the base of the valve while attaching the pump head with your
right hand? Works best when the valve is between the 7 and 9 o'clock
position. Works better with a hosed pump like a RoadMorph, too (6-8
o'clock, though.)

If these are clinchers, consider getting presta tubes that DO have
threads all the way down. If they're tubulars, can't you change valves
on those? (I haven't been close to one (other than in traffic) for
about 30 years now, but seem to recall the valves were screwed in.)

"Brian Huntley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Arthur Ogus said:

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

Assuming you're not stopping in mid-Saskatchewan, can't you lean your
bike up against something, then put your left thumb and index finger
around the base of the valve while attaching the pump head with your
right hand? Works best when the valve is between the 7 and 9 o'clock
position. Works better with a hosed pump like a RoadMorph, too (6-8
o'clock, though.)

If these are clinchers, consider getting presta tubes that DO have
threads all the way down. If they're tubulars, can't you change valves
on those? (I haven't been close to one (other than in traffic) for
about 30 years now, but seem to recall the valves were screwed in.)

A very long time ago there were a few - very few that came with a
partially replaceable valve. It was more trouble than it was worth and
never went anywhere. To replace the valve in a sewup, it's just like
patching one. You cut open the threads around the valve and loosen the
nut on the valve stem that secures the valve to the tube. Replace the
valve and sew it back up.

I replaced several broken sewup valve stems many years ago. After that,
I learned how to remove the pump without damaging the presta valve stem.

One other thing, apply a little saliva to the rubber grommet before
inserting the presta valve stem. A little spit goes a long way.

Chas.

Marcus Coles said:

Arthur Ogus said:

Grrr!!! It has happened again.
For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
the valve stems on my favorite tires,
Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
the valve head gets pushed back into
the tube instead of entering cleanly into
the pump head. This only seems to happen
with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

If the pump head has a knurled nut on the face that slides on the valve
stem try slacking it off a bit to reduce the pressure on the seal
washer.

Alas, it doesn't.

Quoted message said:

HTH

Marcus

Brian Huntley said:

Arthur Ogus said:

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

Assuming you're not stopping in mid-Saskatchewan, can't you lean your
bike up against something, then put your left thumb and index finger
around the base of the valve while attaching the pump head with your
right hand? Works best when the valve is between the 7 and 9 o'clock
position. Works better with a hosed pump like a RoadMorph, too (6-8
o'clock, though.)

This is my floor pump. I don't have enough room to grip the
valve and also get the pump head on far enough.

Quoted message said:

If these are clinchers, consider getting presta tubes that DO have
threads all the way down. If they're tubulars, can't you change valves
on those? (I haven't been close to one (other than in traffic) for
about 30 years now, but seem to recall the valves were screwed in.)

The valve core screws in, but not the main body of the valve. Inded
they are tubulars.

* * Chas said:

"Brian Huntley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Arthur Ogus said:

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

Assuming you're not stopping in mid-Saskatchewan, can't you lean your
bike up against something, then put your left thumb and index finger
around the base of the valve while attaching the pump head with your
right hand? Works best when the valve is between the 7 and 9 o'clock
position. Works better with a hosed pump like a RoadMorph, too (6-8
o'clock, though.)

If these are clinchers, consider getting presta tubes that DO have
threads all the way down. If they're tubulars, can't you change valves
on those? (I haven't been close to one (other than in traffic) for
about 30 years now, but seem to recall the valves were screwed in.)

A very long time ago there were a few - very few that came with a
partially replaceable valve. It was more trouble than it was worth and
never went anywhere. To replace the valve in a sewup, it's just like
patching one. You cut open the threads around the valve and loosen the
nut on the valve stem that secures the valve to the tube. Replace the
valve and sew it back up.

I replaced several broken sewup valve stems many years ago. After that,
I learned how to remove the pump without damaging the presta valve stem.

Removing isn't the problem, it's getting it on.

Quoted message said:

One other thing, apply a little saliva to the rubber grommet before
inserting the presta valve stem. A little spit goes a long way.

maybe this will work. Thanks.

Quoted message said:

Chas.

Arthur Ogus said:

Grrr!!! It has happened again.
For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
the valve stems on my favorite tires,
Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
the valve head gets pushed back into
the tube instead of entering cleanly into
the pump head. This only seems to happen
with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

Dear Arthur,

You can make quick and useful tools out of cheap miniature pliers with
a file,
drill press, bench grinder, and dremel tool.

Most cheap miniature plier sets include a useless pair of flat-jaw
pliers:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4807

That kit of 5 small pliers is often on sale for $5 instead of $10. The
flat-jaw pliers are called "flat-nose" and are useless (as far as I can
tell) for anything except grabbing a very thin sheet of metal.

Grab 'em with one hand, leave the jaws slightly open, and introduce
them to a drill press, using a drill bit slightly thinner than your
smooth valve stem. The faint crack in the slightly open pliers
automatically centers the bit. Once the hole is started, squeeze the
pliers shut, and drill right through. The metal is soft enough that
this takes only a few seconds.

The jaws are more than thick enough to grab even a smooth valve stem
firmly, but thin enough that there's room for the chuck. With a hole
slightly smalIer than the valve stem (smooth or threaded), you get
4-point contact with valve stem, which is plenty. I used a handy
threaded stem of normal length for the picture, since my only smooth
valve tubes are extra-long for aero rims.

This view shows the pliers set as far as my twin-head chuck would go
onto the valve:

http://i13.tinypic.com/357gjfp.jpg

This view shows the drill bit and the hole in the pliers:

http://i13.tinypic.com/2yytqbl.jpg

With a drill press and pair of cheap pliers, it takes less time to make
the tool than to take and upload the pictures.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

"Arthur Ogus" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:2006120312003950073-arthurogusnopam@maccom...

Quoted message said:

On 2006-12-03 01:50:28 -0800, "* * Chas" <[email hidden]>

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

"Brian Huntley" <[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

Arthur Ogus wrote:
> The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
> is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
> I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
> what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
> aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
> nut to hold the valve in place.)

Assuming you're not stopping in mid-Saskatchewan, can't you lean

your

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

bike up against something, then put your left thumb and index

finger

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

around the base of the valve while attaching the pump head with

your

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

right hand? Works best when the valve is between the 7 and 9

o'clock

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

position. Works better with a hosed pump like a RoadMorph, too (6-8
o'clock, though.)

If these are clinchers, consider getting presta tubes that DO have
threads all the way down. If they're tubulars, can't you change

valves

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

on those? (I haven't been close to one (other than in traffic) for
about 30 years now, but seem to recall the valves were screwed in.)

A very long time ago there were a few - very few that came with a
partially replaceable valve. It was more trouble than it was worth

and

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

never went anywhere. To replace the valve in a sewup, it's just like
patching one. You cut open the threads around the valve and loosen

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

nut on the valve stem that secures the valve to the tube. Replace

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

valve and sew it back up.

I replaced several broken sewup valve stems many years ago. After

that,

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

I learned how to remove the pump without damaging the presta valve

stem.

Quoted message said:

Removing isn't the problem, it's getting it on.

Quoted message said:

One other thing, apply a little saliva to the rubber grommet before
inserting the presta valve stem. A little spit goes a long way.

maybe this will work. Thanks.

Quoted message said:

Chas.

Saliva - nature's KY! ;-)

Chas.

Quoted message said:

Arthur Ogus said:

Grrr!!! It has happened again.
For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
the valve stems on my favorite tires,
Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
the valve head gets pushed back into
the tube instead of entering cleanly into
the pump head. This only seems to happen
with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

Dear Arthur,

You can make quick and useful tools out of cheap miniature pliers with
a file,
drill press, bench grinder, and dremel tool.

Most cheap miniature plier sets include a useless pair of flat-jaw
pliers:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4807

That kit of 5 small pliers is often on sale for $5 instead of $10. The
flat-jaw pliers are called "flat-nose" and are useless (as far as I can
tell) for anything except grabbing a very thin sheet of metal.

Grab 'em with one hand, leave the jaws slightly open, and introduce
them to a drill press, using a drill bit slightly thinner than your
smooth valve stem. The faint crack in the slightly open pliers
automatically centers the bit. Once the hole is started, squeeze the
pliers shut, and drill right through. The metal is soft enough that
this takes only a few seconds.

The jaws are more than thick enough to grab even a smooth valve stem
firmly, but thin enough that there's room for the chuck. With a hole
slightly smalIer than the valve stem (smooth or threaded), you get
4-point contact with valve stem, which is plenty. I used a handy
threaded stem of normal length for the picture, since my only smooth
valve tubes are extra-long for aero rims.

This view shows the pliers set as far as my twin-head chuck would go
onto the valve:

http://i13.tinypic.com/357gjfp.jpg

This view shows the drill bit and the hole in the pliers:

http://i13.tinypic.com/2yytqbl.jpg

With a drill press and pair of cheap pliers, it takes less time to make
the tool than to take and upload the pictures.

I like using a soundpost setter:

http://www.elderly.com/images/accessories/TL/VRT01.jpg

bill said:

Quoted message said:

Arthur Ogus said:

Grrr!!! It has happened again.
For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
the valve stems on my favorite tires,
Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
the valve head gets pushed back into
the tube instead of entering cleanly into
the pump head. This only seems to happen
with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

Dear Arthur,

You can make quick and useful tools out of cheap miniature pliers with
a file,
drill press, bench grinder, and dremel tool.

Most cheap miniature plier sets include a useless pair of flat-jaw
pliers:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4807

That kit of 5 small pliers is often on sale for $5 instead of $10. The
flat-jaw pliers are called "flat-nose" and are useless (as far as I can
tell) for anything except grabbing a very thin sheet of metal.

Grab 'em with one hand, leave the jaws slightly open, and introduce
them to a drill press, using a drill bit slightly thinner than your
smooth valve stem. The faint crack in the slightly open pliers
automatically centers the bit. Once the hole is started, squeeze the
pliers shut, and drill right through. The metal is soft enough that
this takes only a few seconds.

The jaws are more than thick enough to grab even a smooth valve stem
firmly, but thin enough that there's room for the chuck. With a hole
slightly smalIer than the valve stem (smooth or threaded), you get
4-point contact with valve stem, which is plenty. I used a handy
threaded stem of normal length for the picture, since my only smooth
valve tubes are extra-long for aero rims.

This view shows the pliers set as far as my twin-head chuck would go
onto the valve:

http://i13.tinypic.com/357gjfp.jpg

This view shows the drill bit and the hole in the pliers:

http://i13.tinypic.com/2yytqbl.jpg

With a drill press and pair of cheap pliers, it takes less time to make
the tool than to take and upload the pictures.

I like using a soundpost setter:

http://www.elderly.com/images/accessories/TL/VRT01.jpg

Dear Bill,

A scissors-style soundpost setter should work. A violin soundpost is
usually made from 1/4 inch spruce dowel, only a trifle thicker than a
6 mm ~.236" Presta valve stem.

That soundpost setter costs $16.75, plus a shipping fee revealed only
after you supply a credit card:

http://elderly.com/cgi-bin/elderly/basket.pl?new_item=VRT05&data_file=a

Here's a similar soundpost setter, good enough for bike valve stems:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Violin/Soundpost_Setters.html

It's only $5.35 and ships to Colorado for $5.50, so I'd buy it--except
that I already have a drill press and plenty of easily drilled pliers
from old $5 miniature plier kits.

Cheers,

A. Vivaldi

Quoted message said:

bill said:

Quoted message said:

Arthur Ogus wrote:
> Grrr!!! It has happened again.
> For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
> the valve stems on my favorite tires,
> Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
> the valve head gets pushed back into
> the tube instead of entering cleanly into
> the pump head. This only seems to happen
> with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
> nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
> the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
> Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.
>
> The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
> is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
> I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
> what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
> aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
> nut to hold the valve in place.)

Dear Arthur,

You can make quick and useful tools out of cheap miniature pliers with
a file,
drill press, bench grinder, and dremel tool.

Most cheap miniature plier sets include a useless pair of flat-jaw
pliers:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4807

That kit of 5 small pliers is often on sale for $5 instead of $10. The
flat-jaw pliers are called "flat-nose" and are useless (as far as I can
tell) for anything except grabbing a very thin sheet of metal.

Grab 'em with one hand, leave the jaws slightly open, and introduce
them to a drill press, using a drill bit slightly thinner than your
smooth valve stem. The faint crack in the slightly open pliers
automatically centers the bit. Once the hole is started, squeeze the
pliers shut, and drill right through. The metal is soft enough that
this takes only a few seconds.

The jaws are more than thick enough to grab even a smooth valve stem
firmly, but thin enough that there's room for the chuck. With a hole
slightly smalIer than the valve stem (smooth or threaded), you get
4-point contact with valve stem, which is plenty. I used a handy
threaded stem of normal length for the picture, since my only smooth
valve tubes are extra-long for aero rims.

This view shows the pliers set as far as my twin-head chuck would go
onto the valve:

http://i13.tinypic.com/357gjfp.jpg

This view shows the drill bit and the hole in the pliers:

http://i13.tinypic.com/2yytqbl.jpg

With a drill press and pair of cheap pliers, it takes less time to make
the tool than to take and upload the pictures.

I like using a soundpost setter:

http://www.elderly.com/images/accessories/TL/VRT01.jpg

Dear Bill,

A scissors-style soundpost setter should work. A violin soundpost is
usually made from 1/4 inch spruce dowel, only a trifle thicker than a
6 mm ~.236" Presta valve stem.

That soundpost setter costs $16.75, plus a shipping fee revealed only
after you supply a credit card:

http://elderly.com/cgi-bin/elderly/basket.pl?new_item=VRT05&data_file=a

Here's a similar soundpost setter, good enough for bike valve stems:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Violin/Soundpost_Setters.html

It's only $5.35 and ships to Colorado for $5.50, so I'd buy it--except
that I already have a drill press and plenty of easily drilled pliers
from old $5 miniature plier kits.

Your pliers are nicer and stronger.

I just think it is funny how a tool from a completely unrelated field
can have such an apparent perfect match!

bill said:

Quoted message said:

bill said:

[email hidden] wrote:
> Arthur Ogus wrote:
> > Grrr!!! It has happened again.
> > For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
> > the valve stems on my favorite tires,
> > Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
> > the valve head gets pushed back into
> > the tube instead of entering cleanly into
> > the pump head. This only seems to happen
> > with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
> > nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
> > the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
> > Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.
> >
> > The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
> > is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
> > I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
> > what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
> > aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
> > nut to hold the valve in place.)
>
> Dear Arthur,
>
> You can make quick and useful tools out of cheap miniature pliers with
> a file,
> drill press, bench grinder, and dremel tool.
>
> Most cheap miniature plier sets include a useless pair of flat-jaw
> pliers:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4807
>
> That kit of 5 small pliers is often on sale for $5 instead of $10. The
> flat-jaw pliers are called "flat-nose" and are useless (as far as I can
> tell) for anything except grabbing a very thin sheet of metal.
>
> Grab 'em with one hand, leave the jaws slightly open, and introduce
> them to a drill press, using a drill bit slightly thinner than your
> smooth valve stem. The faint crack in the slightly open pliers
> automatically centers the bit. Once the hole is started, squeeze the
> pliers shut, and drill right through. The metal is soft enough that
> this takes only a few seconds.
>
> The jaws are more than thick enough to grab even a smooth valve stem
> firmly, but thin enough that there's room for the chuck. With a hole
> slightly smalIer than the valve stem (smooth or threaded), you get
> 4-point contact with valve stem, which is plenty. I used a handy
> threaded stem of normal length for the picture, since my only smooth
> valve tubes are extra-long for aero rims.
>
> This view shows the pliers set as far as my twin-head chuck would go
> onto the valve:
>
> http://i13.tinypic.com/357gjfp.jpg
>
> This view shows the drill bit and the hole in the pliers:
>
> http://i13.tinypic.com/2yytqbl.jpg
>
> With a drill press and pair of cheap pliers, it takes less time to make
> the tool than to take and upload the pictures.
>

I like using a soundpost setter:

http://www.elderly.com/images/accessories/TL/VRT01.jpg

Dear Bill,

A scissors-style soundpost setter should work. A violin soundpost is
usually made from 1/4 inch spruce dowel, only a trifle thicker than a
6 mm ~.236" Presta valve stem.

That soundpost setter costs $16.75, plus a shipping fee revealed only
after you supply a credit card:

http://elderly.com/cgi-bin/elderly/basket.pl?new_item=VRT05&data_file=a

Here's a similar soundpost setter, good enough for bike valve stems:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Violin/Soundpost_Setters.html

It's only $5.35 and ships to Colorado for $5.50, so I'd buy it--except
that I already have a drill press and plenty of easily drilled pliers
from old $5 miniature plier kits.

Your pliers are nicer and stronger.

I just think it is funny how a tool from a completely unrelated field
can have such an apparent perfect match!

Dear Bill,

I love to solve my problems with tools designed for something else.

Back when hard drives began to come with mico-mini jumpers, I was
sometimes asked by envious technicians where I'd found my pair of
scissor-grip pad-end tweezers, which are perfect for removing and
installing those filthy little jumpers.

I replied in a deep, manly voice that I'd stolen mine from a trusting
woman, but that such tweezers are available at most beauty shops:

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml;jsessionid=3O21O0ZMJXE2XLAUCJABXCQ?id=P0423&_requestid=132064

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

<[email hidden]> wrote in message
news:[email hidden]...

Quoted message said:

bill said:

Quoted message said:

On 4 Dec 2006 06:53:52 -0800, "bill" <[email hidden]> wrote:

>
>[email hidden] wrote:
>> Arthur Ogus wrote:
>> > Grrr!!! It has happened again.
>> > For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
>> > the valve stems on my favorite tires,
>> > Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
>> > the valve head gets pushed back into
>> > the tube instead of entering cleanly into
>> > the pump head. This only seems to happen
>> > with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
>> > nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
>> > the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
>> > Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.
>> >
>> > The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
>> > is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
>> > I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
>> > what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
>> > aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
>> > nut to hold the valve in place.)
>>
>> Dear Arthur,
>>
>> You can make quick and useful tools out of cheap miniature pliers

with

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> a file,
>> drill press, bench grinder, and dremel tool.
>>
>> Most cheap miniature plier sets include a useless pair of flat-jaw
>> pliers:
>>
>>

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4807

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>>
>> That kit of 5 small pliers is often on sale for $5 instead of $10.

The

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> flat-jaw pliers are called "flat-nose" and are useless (as far as

I can

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> tell) for anything except grabbing a very thin sheet of metal.
>>
>> Grab 'em with one hand, leave the jaws slightly open, and

introduce

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> them to a drill press, using a drill bit slightly thinner than

your

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> smooth valve stem. The faint crack in the slightly open pliers
>> automatically centers the bit. Once the hole is started, squeeze

the

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> pliers shut, and drill right through. The metal is soft enough

that

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> this takes only a few seconds.
>>
>> The jaws are more than thick enough to grab even a smooth valve

stem

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> firmly, but thin enough that there's room for the chuck. With a

hole

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> slightly smalIer than the valve stem (smooth or threaded), you get
>> 4-point contact with valve stem, which is plenty. I used a handy
>> threaded stem of normal length for the picture, since my only

smooth

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> valve tubes are extra-long for aero rims.
>>
>> This view shows the pliers set as far as my twin-head chuck would

go

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> onto the valve:
>>
>> http://i13.tinypic.com/357gjfp.jpg
>>
>> This view shows the drill bit and the hole in the pliers:
>>
>> http://i13.tinypic.com/2yytqbl.jpg
>>
>> With a drill press and pair of cheap pliers, it takes less time to

make

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

>> the tool than to take and upload the pictures.
>>
>
>I like using a soundpost setter:
>
>http://www.elderly.com/images/accessories/TL/VRT01.jpg

Dear Bill,

A scissors-style soundpost setter should work. A violin soundpost is
usually made from 1/4 inch spruce dowel, only a trifle thicker than a
6 mm ~.236" Presta valve stem.

That soundpost setter costs $16.75, plus a shipping fee revealed only
after you supply a credit card:

http://elderly.com/cgi-bin/elderly/basket.pl?new_item=VRT05&data_file=a

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Here's a similar soundpost setter, good enough for bike valve stems:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Violin/Soundpost_Setters.html

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

It's only $5.35 and ships to Colorado for $5.50, so I'd buy

it--except

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

Quoted message said:

that I already have a drill press and plenty of easily drilled pliers
from old $5 miniature plier kits.

Your pliers are nicer and stronger.

I just think it is funny how a tool from a completely unrelated field
can have such an apparent perfect match!

Dear Bill,

I love to solve my problems with tools designed for something else.

Back when hard drives began to come with mico-mini jumpers, I was
sometimes asked by envious technicians where I'd found my pair of
scissor-grip pad-end tweezers, which are perfect for removing and
installing those filthy little jumpers.

I replied in a deep, manly voice that I'd stolen mine from a trusting
woman, but that such tweezers are available at most beauty shops:

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml;jsessionid=3O21O0ZMJXE2XLAUCJABXCQ?id=P0423&_requestid=132064

Quoted message said:

Cheers,

Carl Fogel

Studly, dude!

Chas.

Arthur Ogus said:

Grrr!!! It has happened again.
For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
the valve stems on my favorite tires,
Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
the valve head gets pushed back into
the tube instead of entering cleanly into
the pump head. This only seems to happen
with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.

The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
nut to hold the valve in place.)

Possible solutions:

Rip some duct tape into a 1/2" strip and wind it around the base of
the stem to make a shoulder.

Replace the pump's chuck with a Topeak Smarthead or one of the other
proven no-hassle designs.

Use a pushnut as a retainer; McMaster part number 96415A128 should
work.

Use a sleeve of suitable length under a Presta-Schrader adapter when
inflating.

Painstakingly file a helical groove into the stem and install a
matching hand-crafted nut.

Keep a pair of pliers or a strong alligator clip handy to grab the
stem when inflating.

Get clincher rims.

This list is not exhaustive.
--
Typoes are a feature, not a bug.
Some gardening required to reply via email.
Words processed in a facility that contains nuts.

Quoted message said:

bill said:

Quoted message said:

On 4 Dec 2006 06:53:52 -0800, "bill" <[email hidden]> wrote:

>
>[email hidden] wrote:
>> Arthur Ogus wrote:
>> > Grrr!!! It has happened again.
>> > For some reason my floor pump doesn't like
>> > the valve stems on my favorite tires,
>> > Vittoria Corsa CX. About half the time,
>> > the valve head gets pushed back into
>> > the tube instead of entering cleanly into
>> > the pump head. This only seems to happen
>> > with these tires, non other. But it's more than a
>> > nuisance, because if it happens often enough,
>> > the tube is weakened and begins to leak.
>> > Since these tires are sewups, it's a major headache.
>> >
>> > The only way I have found to prevent this from happening
>> > is to let all the air out of the tire before pumping, so that
>> > I can support the back of the valve with my thumb. Is this
>> > what you are supposed to do? (Of course, these valves
>> > aren't threaded at the bottom, so one can't use a retainer
>> > nut to hold the valve in place.)
>>
>> Dear Arthur,
>>
>> You can make quick and useful tools out of cheap miniature pliers with
>> a file,
>> drill press, bench grinder, and dremel tool.
>>
>> Most cheap miniature plier sets include a useless pair of flat-jaw
>> pliers:
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4807
>>
>> That kit of 5 small pliers is often on sale for $5 instead of $10. The
>> flat-jaw pliers are called "flat-nose" and are useless (as far as I can
>> tell) for anything except grabbing a very thin sheet of metal.
>>
>> Grab 'em with one hand, leave the jaws slightly open, and introduce
>> them to a drill press, using a drill bit slightly thinner than your
>> smooth valve stem. The faint crack in the slightly open pliers
>> automatically centers the bit. Once the hole is started, squeeze the
>> pliers shut, and drill right through. The metal is soft enough that
>> this takes only a few seconds.
>>
>> The jaws are more than thick enough to grab even a smooth valve stem
>> firmly, but thin enough that there's room for the chuck. With a hole
>> slightly smalIer than the valve stem (smooth or threaded), you get
>> 4-point contact with valve stem, which is plenty. I used a handy
>> threaded stem of normal length for the picture, since my only smooth
>> valve tubes are extra-long for aero rims.
>>
>> This view shows the pliers set as far as my twin-head chuck would go
>> onto the valve:
>>
>> http://i13.tinypic.com/357gjfp.jpg
>>
>> This view shows the drill bit and the hole in the pliers:
>>
>> http://i13.tinypic.com/2yytqbl.jpg
>>
>> With a drill press and pair of cheap pliers, it takes less time to make
>> the tool than to take and upload the pictures.
>>
>
>I like using a soundpost setter:
>
>http://www.elderly.com/images/accessories/TL/VRT01.jpg

Dear Bill,

A scissors-style soundpost setter should work. A violin soundpost is
usually made from 1/4 inch spruce dowel, only a trifle thicker than a
6 mm ~.236" Presta valve stem.

That soundpost setter costs $16.75, plus a shipping fee revealed only
after you supply a credit card:

http://elderly.com/cgi-bin/elderly/basket.pl?new_item=VRT05&data_file=a

Here's a similar soundpost setter, good enough for bike valve stems:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Violin/Soundpost_Setters.html

It's only $5.35 and ships to Colorado for $5.50, so I'd buy it--except
that I already have a drill press and plenty of easily drilled pliers
from old $5 miniature plier kits.

Your pliers are nicer and stronger.

I just think it is funny how a tool from a completely unrelated field
can have such an apparent perfect match!

Dear Bill,

I love to solve my problems with tools designed for something else.

Back when hard drives began to come with mico-mini jumpers, I was
sometimes asked by envious technicians where I'd found my pair of
scissor-grip pad-end tweezers, which are perfect for removing and
installing those filthy little jumpers.

I replied in a deep, manly voice that I'd stolen mine from a trusting
woman, but that such tweezers are available at most beauty shops:

http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml;jsessionid=3O21O0ZMJXE2XLAUCJABXCQ?id=P0423&_requestid=132064

That is great! :-D