1x5 mtb

dookie said:

in theory, it would seem that by adding a few spacers inside and outside of
an abbreviated cassette cogset and severely exercising the derailleur limit
screws, one could create a functional 1x5(ish) drivetrain. any thoughts?

Why?

Greg

--
"All my time I spent in heaven
Revelries of dance and wine
Waking to the sound of laughter
Up I'd rise and kiss the sky" - The Mekons

dookie said:

in theory, it would seem that by adding a few spacers inside and outside of
an abbreviated cassette cogset and severely exercising the derailleur limit
screws, one could create a functional 1x5(ish) drivetrain. any thoughts?
the foundation is 8spd shimano.

as an alternative, i'm also considering a road cogset. straight-block
off-road anyone?

Sure, my biz partner has a 1by3..on a Special-ed frame, commuter type.

dookie said:

in theory, it would seem that by adding a few spacers inside and outside of
an abbreviated cassette cogset and severely exercising the derailleur limit
screws, one could create a functional 1x5(ish) drivetrain. any thoughts?
the foundation is 8spd shimano.

Use a 7spd hub. They have less dish, so your wheel will be stronger.
There are also a few single speed hubs, like Bontrager's, with a
mini-freehub that appears to have room for several cogs.

Quoted message said:

as an alternative, i'm also considering a road cogset. straight-block
off-road anyone?

I tried this (1x9 with an 11-23), and I didn't like it at all. Too
much shifting, too little range, too finicky for commuting, etc.

-Vee

Vee said:

dookie said:

in theory, it would seem that by adding a few spacers inside and outside of
an abbreviated cassette cogset and severely exercising the derailleur limit
screws, one could create a functional 1x5(ish) drivetrain. any thoughts?
the foundation is 8spd shimano.

Use a 7spd hub. They have less dish, so your wheel will be stronger.
There are also a few single speed hubs, like Bontrager's, with a
mini-freehub that appears to have room for several cogs.

The DT240s Singlespeed looks like it might take 4 sprockets and
builds into an almost dishless wheel. I think you need to use the
smallest sprocket from a cassette to get the lockring to bite on the
serrations. The top 4 sprockets on Shimano 10-sp 11-up and 12-up
cassettes are the loose type, which helps, though you'd need some odd
thickness spacers/shims to make it work with an 8-sp shifter.

Unless you're going to use a narrow freehub rotor to reduce dish,
you're not breaking any ground which hasn't been gone over by a bunch
of flat course time triallists who have been ditching the big
sprockets since the days of freewheel blocks.

Kinky Cowboy*

*Batteries not included
May contain traces of nuts
Your milage may vary

dookie said:

in theory, it would seem that by adding a few spacers inside and outside of
an abbreviated cassette cogset and severely exercising the derailleur limit
screws, one could create a functional 1x5(ish) drivetrain. any thoughts?
the foundation is 8spd shimano.

A better way to make a 1x5 is to relace the wheel on a Phil Wood and
put on a 5-speed freewheel like those available from Harris:
http://harriscyclery.net/itemlist.cfm?category=117

Figuring out what to use for a shifter is your problem- the most
practical solution is probably a bolt-on friction thumb shifter. If you
want to use the SunTour Mountech AS 14-38 freewheel you'll have to find
the matching rear derailleur.

Jeff

G.T. said:

dookie said:

in theory, it would seem that by adding a few spacers inside and outside of
an abbreviated cassette cogset and severely exercising the derailleur limit
screws, one could create a functional 1x5(ish) drivetrain. any thoughts?

Why?

Greg

Ditto, why?